WHAT I SMELL: Hatchi-matchi…Cinabre opens with a dirty peppered gingered-rose. The ginger really stands out in center stage while the rose sits quietly in the back. It’s loud and it’s strong and smells like a heavy petroleum. I know this sounds bad, but it’s not. The rose starts to come to the forefront after a short while. It’s a dirty rose, one that isn’t fresh but one that’s thick and ready to mold off of the vine, almost as if it’s liquifying. I can’t say that I like it and there’s something almost repulsive about it; but it keeps drawing me back in. After a bit Cinabre bring forth a resinous sweetness which radiates and cuts out some of the dirt, but the fragrance continues to retain its earthy living state and still remains shockingly large. Finally, the dirt get whisked away and Cinabre moves into a phase that is slightly powdered and very sweetened rose of which the sweetness is sickening if you bring your arm to your nose. In other words, at this point Cinabre is best from a distance. Finally, the fragrance mellows into a lightly sweet vanilla rose, tinged with a hint of opoponax.
Ginger, black pepper, rose baies, Splendens rose, Morroccan rose, benzoin, vanilla, opoponax.
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A working mexican village. So what does that mean? The combination of and smells of food, dirt, and flowers in the hot sun. It’s alive and earthy and the smells are sometimes beautiful and yet sometimes can be too thick with real life. After the heat of the day settles down, the sweeter smells of the town make their appearance.
THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CINABRE: thick, gothish, sweetened
WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CINABRE: Scent for Thought, Perfume Shrine, Make Perfume Not War
BOTTOM LINE: Cinabre is one of the more interesting fragrances that I have sniffed in a long time. I can say that I actually quite like it but a little goes a long way and if they offered it in a 10ml offering I would probably pick up a bottle.
- Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
- Scent: Oriental
- Classification: Unisex more at the opening – more feminine in the drydown.
- Expense: $185 for 100ml EdP, currently offered as a May 2013 Olfactif offering
May 21, 2013 at 6:15 am
Sounds interesting Mr. Hound. Will have to check if someone in Poland carries this brand.
May 21, 2013 at 6:27 am
Not even Lucky Scent carries this line so it may be a bit hard to find! It is an interesting ride that’s for sure.
May 21, 2013 at 7:30 am
We’ll see 😉
May 25, 2013 at 6:16 pm
Indiescents carries Maria candida gentile and Parfum 1
As does parfumerie Nasreen in Seattle
For those in NYC it is at Henri Bendel
One thing is for sure, her fragrances are so original no one ever says I have smelled that before
May 21, 2013 at 6:20 am
Great review Mr Hound! Who can resist trying a scent that smells like a working Mexican village? I think there is definitely room for fragrance that smells interesting and conjures up pictures in our heads, even if we don’t want to actually smell like that!
I feel like this about Serge Lutens Daim Blonde. It reminds me of school corridors. I don’t want to buy it, but it keeps pulling me back. Can’t explain it.
It’s mysterious stuff this perfume lark, eh?
May 21, 2013 at 7:23 pm
You’re right…it’s funny how certain smells and fragrances can trigger scent memories or associations. We just need to avoid those fragrances that remind us of the barnyard!!! 🙂
May 21, 2013 at 6:57 am
Thank you for the mention! This is such an odd fragrance and you have described it very well. I hadn’t noticed the petroleum but in retrospect, you’re absolutely right, and it is one of the more pleasant notes.
May 21, 2013 at 7:24 pm
This was just a big ole rollercoaster that ended up being a sweet ride. I like fragrances like this that take you on a funky journey!
May 21, 2013 at 8:49 am
I would love it if perfumers offered 10 ml bottles! Interesting review Mr. Hound….I like that her offerings are all natural!
May 21, 2013 at 7:25 pm
I should have done more research. I didn’t realize they were all natural. Wow! Thanks for the insight.
May 21, 2013 at 4:06 pm
As far as reviews for a scent that I do not plan to try go, I enjoyed this one 🙂 And yes, all brands should offer 5-10-15 ml options!
May 21, 2013 at 7:26 pm
I think we should start a campaign. I’m willing to spend a little more for the smaller sizes!
May 21, 2013 at 7:31 pm
I’m really trying!!! Everywhere (in my posts, in comments on others’ posts) I keep repeating that we need perfumista-size bottles – 10-15 ml and constantly praise those brands that do.
May 27, 2013 at 11:04 pm
A working Mexican village? Brilliant!
Sometimes I think that when you get to smelling a lot of stuff, what would have once been repellent to you just becomes interesting and then you appreciate it because it doesn’t small like anything else. This sounds like one of those.
May 28, 2013 at 10:18 am
This one is really special and dark – it recreates the Ayrshire rose Splendens, an ancient rose well known for having exquisite and extremely rare notes of myrrh. I’m not fan of rose perfumes but this deserves to be said it is mystirious.
You can actually buy 15 ml travel size on their web site for 25 EUR or less, because it is on sale ;-).
May 28, 2013 at 7:28 pm
My dear Civava…why did you have to tempt me. I’m now going to check out her website!
May 29, 2013 at 4:43 am
Please do. Maria Candida is really talented and I guess these masterpieces will disappear soon.
I’m going to take a trip to our Rosarium in Arboretum in search for Ayrshire rose…Will report if it is found.
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