The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Roja Parfums Elixir

WHAT I SMELL:  Elixir opens with a soft, sweet, beautiful juicy raspberry and peach.  It’s so edible and inviting and it’s an immediate spirit lifter.  A luscious rose and a brightened jasmine come sweeping in; mixing in an intoxicating way with the fruity goodness.  I always love a perfume that is full of positive energy and Elixir is the epitome of positivity.  The perfume starts to take on a layer of cottony musk which adds just the right amount of clean-like sparkle.  And soon enough, a light warmth begins to blend with the sweetened cotton which makes the perfume that much more comforting.  Not too long in the perfume’s development, Elixir begins to quiet and soften.  It’s still lightly sweet, but very demure in the most enticing way.

From the Roja Parfums website:

“Fragrance is like a magical elixir: Invisible, a single drop can transform you into a goddess. It has the power to make you feel irresistible, confident, and seductive – where anything is possible. This magical elixir exudes effortless sensuality – giving you the power to light up a room, to leave an impression, and to get what you want.” – Roja Dove.

Top Notes:  Bergamot

Heart Notes:  Lily of the Valley, Geranium, Rose de Mai, Jasmin de Grasse, Ylang Ylang, Heliotrope, Violet, Raspberry, Peach

Base Notes:  Violet Leaves, Cinnamon, Cedarwood, Casmir Wood, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Orris Sur Cèdre, Orris, Ambrette, Musk

Marilyn Monroe

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Quietly pink.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ELIXIR:  soft, inviting, sweetened

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ELIXIR: Ms Tantrum Blog, Fashion for Lunch, fromSandyxo

BOTTOM LINE:  I have to admit that Elixir was not love at first sniff.  I thought it was pretty, but after wearing it a couple of times, I found that I was craving its quiet beauty.  Elixir borders on being a skin scent, because when you are wearing it, it feels as if it’s not projecting.   But others around me have been left wondering where the heavenly scent is coming from.  Elixir is a very personal fragrance…one that’s easy to make your own.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Nose:  Roja Dove
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense:  $290 for 100 ml Essence de Parfum. Also available in parfum extrait.


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Cartier – XII L’Heure Mysterieuse

WHAT I SMELL:  L’Heure Mysterieuse has a strange opening that’s full of smoke and tar as well as a heavy patchouli that is thick, chewy and rather like paste.  The smoke rises off of the skin like some kind of industrial component.  This is a very bizarre as I can’t see how the opening brings promise of anything beautiful or gentile….or something that represents “Cartier.”  Thankfully, after a short time, the tar and heavy smoke begin to lift.  A dried flatness of incense appears instead and the perfume starts to belie a more gentle persona.  But don’t get me wrong, there’s a strength to the perfume in that it has a fighting energy buried beneath the smoky subdued radiance.  After quite some time a light floral appears, once again softening the former intensity.  To me, L’Heure Mysterieuse is a hard perfume to describe, but I can tell you that it has a classic old world heart that reminds me of fragrances from the 1970s.

From the Cartier website:

Silence was on the prowl. You could hear it breathing, lurking like desire. The calmness felt only temporary. Drowsiness gained life, slowly jasmine and heavily PATCHOULI. This was the time for listening to your own pulse at the edge of abandon, like a reverse countdown, a voyage into the intimate where everything both takes shape and disintegrates. Withdraw into yourself, escape and focus your mind on your inner self, reaching that point where self-awareness resides. Was it elemi gum, CORIANDER day? Was it incense, FRANKINCENSE night? Soon you must leave the juniper darkness… but not quite yet. First, savor L’HEURE MYSTÉRIEUSE for just one hour – no longer, that’s a promise – extracted from deep within, and rediscover your own personal roots.

La Liberté guidant le peuple. Eugène Delacroix. 1830

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  La Liberté.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE L’HEURE MYSTERIEUSE:  smoky, intense, retro

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’HEURE MYSTERIEUSE:  AustralianPerfumeJunkies, Bois de Jasmin, Katie Puckrick Smells

BOTTOM LINE:  L’Heure Mysterieuse Is a like and not a love for me.  The opening is weirdly interesting, but the drydown redeems the perfume as it turns into a retro classical scent.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Spicy
  • Nose:  Mathilde Laurent
  • Classification: Unisex (but to me it leans masculine)
  • Expense: $285 for 75 ml eau de parfum


2 Comments

Eight & Bob – Egypt

WHAT I SMELL:  Rather than a dry heat rising from the Sahara, Egypt opens with warm nutty lavender that quickly begins to fizz with a mellow lemon citrus coating.  It’s warm, but at the same time rather crisp and slightly formal, while projecting a casual vibe.  The lemon and nutmeg make for a light gourmand presence…slightly sugared, but never sweet.   The patchouli enters rather quickly, but instead of taking over, it glides underneath the nuttiness.  Here the perfume really begins to project and it’s warm and inviting and rather sexy as its self-assured.  As the perfume continues to develop the patchouli comes front and center with a sandalwood that tries to keep the scent from becoming to sweet.  But unfortunately on my skin, Egypt turns into a patchouli bomb…that’s not bad, but I would have liked to experience some more of the leather, which only appears after an hour or so and with barely a whisper.

Notes from the Eight & Bob website:

Top Notes: Lavender, Lemon, Moss

Heart Notes:  Cardamom, Nutmeg

Base Notes:  Leather, Patchouli, Sandalwood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Early 20th Century Egypt…a blending of old with the new.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE EGYPT:  Semi-sweet, semi-formal, semi-modern

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT EGYPT:  CaFleureBon, Perfume Posse

BOTTOM LINE:  I want to like this perfume, but the patchouli is just a bit too radiant for my taste.  Too bad because otherwise it’s a lovely fragrance.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $183 for 100 ml eau de parfum