The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


7 Comments

Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d’Iris

Image result for bois d'irisWHAT I SMELL:  Bois d’Iris is oh so inviting when it first goes on the skin.  It’s like soft iris infused cashmere that’s lightly sweetened and tinged with sun.  The perfume feels like a late spring morning where the dew of the evening before has just evaporated off the flowers and greenery of a beautiful garden.  The iris is very contained, but nicely warmed with the lightest amber that helps to give the perfume a golden hue of radiance.  After some time, the iris retreats to make way for a buzzing labdanum.  Still golden, the perfume moves from floral to almost entirely wood.  Eventually, the perfume moves to the powdery and it becomes slightly sweeter , but the sweetness is kept contained by a dried woody vetiver.  Overall, a very easy wear.

To smell wood, to see its scent from a totally different angle, forget the idea of the forest, leaves and earth , and picture it on a beach, floating in waves, and washing up on the sand.  Driftwood warmed by the sun.  I paired it with Ambergris and Labdanaum to underscore the solar and sensual dimension of this wood.  Iris and Vetiver bring out the texture and elegance of this fragrance.

– Emilie Coppermann

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Beach bonnet.  It’s a lightly sweet floral wood tinged with the sun, with a salty woodiness that is pretty, yet elegant and refined.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BOIS d’IRIS: clean, tidy, proper

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BOIS d’IRIS:  Now Smell This, The Non-Blonde, Perfume-Smellin’ Things

BOTTOM LINE:   Bois d’Iris is sweet, pretty, rather demure, and fun in a 1950’s kind of way.  A perfect perfume for wearing at the office, or a fun day out on the town.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody
  • Nose: Emilie Coppermann
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $125 for 1.5 oz eau de parfum


13 Comments

Russkaya Kozha by Berdoues

WHAT I SMELL:  Russkaya Kozha has a discordant and biting opening that quickly moves to a flattened wood tinged with leather and oud.  There’s a sour edge and a pungent aspect, like worn leather pants that have absorbed the dirt and sweat from the wearer.  The perfume is beefy without being weighted, but it does have presence.  After a few minutes, the funky opening starts to sweeten and a wonderful radiating amber and benzoin ride above the now rough hewed sueded leather.  There’s a slight booziness that meets the mix and what was a bit rough and tumble at the beginning is now confidently sophisticated.  It also seems like there may be a light rose note buried under the leather, but I’m not seeing that listed as one of the notes.  The perfume settles down into a warmed smoky leather that is masculine without being overt but is still clearly in charge.  Instead, it projects confidence in a wonderful grandeur that is born from the majestic heart of Mother Russia.

From the Berdoues website:

An elegant leather perfume.

All the sophistication of Russia captured in a glass bottle. A blend of the noblest raw materials, Russkaya Kozha develops into an intense, mysterious perfume through the combination of Cade wood from Spain, Siam Benzoin from Malaysia and Cardamom from Guatemala.

Russkaya Kozha is a leathery, amber perfume that bares eternal Russia’s soul through the blend of Cade wood and an elegant accord of Benzoin from Malaysia and Cardamom from Guatemala.  An elegant and sophisticated Grand Cru.

Prince Alexander Konstantinovich Gorchakov

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A perfume fit for a Russian Prince.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE RUSSKAYA KOZHA:  secure, cultivated, resolute

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RUSSKAYA KOZHA:  Colognoisseur, The Perfume Expert

BOTTOM LINE:  Russkaya Kozha is a lovely leather perfume that feels refined, yet still embodies the rough edges that come with the harsh environments of the Russian landscape.  This is a really nice leather perfume that doesn’t overwhelm the wearer and as a cologne, this has incredible lasting power.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Leather
  • Nose: Flavien Laurandeau
  • Classification: Leans masculine, but easily unisex
  • Expense: $80 for 100 ml eau de cologne


8 Comments

Shelley Kyle Parfums Sorella

WHAT I SMELL:  Sorella’s opening dances on the skin gloriously fresh and green, like fresh picked flowers off the stem.  The perfume is all about the season of spring and initially it feels like walking through a meadow that is flush with dewy cooled sparkling flowers.  The perfume is incredibly feminine and absolutely delightful with an incredible amount of positive energy. As such, it defies you to be in a bad mood while wearing it.  After a short while, the green stems that seem to release the soft florals as if they’re being crushed under your feet like cool grass,  makes way for a warm buttery note that adds a soothing layer like that of a comforting lotion.  As the perfume continues to develop, the young and fresh, moves to the more mature with a rounded tuberose coming front and center.  It’s waxy consistency doesn’t contain any sharp edges as it seems to glean on the skin. At the same time, it’s met with a warm amber and rapturous rose. Sorella is a lady; but a lady who isn’t demure in the least.  Instead, she shines with a beautiful confidence that can’t be mistaken.  

MotherDaughterFrom the Shelley Kyle website:

The Sorella Perfume is ideal for women who prefer floral scents that are subtle yet lingering. The combination of fresh tuberose, red roses, vintage gardenia and violet leaves provides a feeling femininity and control.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A young lady matures to womanhood.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SORELLA:  gracious, enveloping, radiant

BOTTOM LINE:  Wonderful perfumes don’t have to be expensive and Sorella completely exemplifies this.  The perfume is wonderfully layered and it unfolds like a beautiful story.    And for you Linden lovers, Shelley Kyle’s De Ma Mere is an easy to wear Linden based perfume that every time I wear it, I get multiple compliments!

  • sorella_9269Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $37 for 30 ml Eau de Parfum from the Shelley Kyle website.  And the great thing about Shelley Kyle products is that for each of their lines, they offer a plethora of matching products from lotions to candles and everything in between.  And just in time for Mother’s Day they currently offer 10% off and free shipping on all orders!