The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Papillon Artisan Perfumes – Hera

WHAT I SMELL:  Oh my; Hera opens up with a sweet orange blossom that quickly moves to a warmed jasmine and ylang, ylang.  It’s thick, rich, intoxicating and absolutely breathtaking.   From the beginning, Hera is beautifully all woman and has a persona that feels all-knowing with its golden glowing countenance.  As the perfume develops, the florals become more creamy as the Rose de Mai begins to bloom from the center.  The rose is rapturous without dominating and it helps to create a dream like aura in its wake.  After some more time, a hint of incense whispers in, but I am guessing its the narcissus that I am smelling vs. incense, but in any case it adds a dimension of mystery to this rapturous beauty.  In slow and graceful development, Hera begins to powder and dry and a wonderful oakmoss note appears.  And a bit later, the perfume once again becomes a bit more creamy with what seems to be a hint of violet.  Here, the perfume is so soft and enticing and lyrical in nature.  It’s strange, because Hera seems to quietly move, meld and morph at every slow turn so it’s quite hard to pinpoint any development in a chronological order.  And as a result, every time it’s worn it feels completely different, but no less beautiful.  Hera is a gift from the gods of which this mere mortal is not giving it justice in my description, because it’s just to hard to put rapturous beauty into adequate words.

From the Papillon Artisan Perfumes website:

The goddess of weddings, family and blessings, Hera possessed a majestic power. Here, she is celebrated in the opulence of orris and jasmine. Engulfed in flowers, you are invited by a burst of orange blossom, radiating a golden halo of warm white flowers. Delicate touches reveal a buttery, rich embrace. Rose de mai brings a whisper of drama and gentle musk offers a sensual caress for Gods and Goddesses alike. A bright and beautiful perfume, steeped in energetic luxury and effortless glamour.

Notes:  Jasmine. Orange Blossom. Ylang. Rose de Mai. Orris. Narcissus

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Perfectly named, Hera is indeed “Queen of the Gods.”

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE HERA:  glorious, captivating, breathtaking.

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT HERA:  Bonkers About Perfume, CaFleureBon, Taking One Thing Off

BOTTOM LINE:  It’s not often enough these days that I am completely swept away by the beauty of a fragrance.  I find many that are wonderful and interesting, but not ones that immediately grab my soul.  Hera is a masterpiece.  And one reason why is that it seems to carry DNA from vintage Caron.  Hera at times reminds me greatly of the chypre mastery of Alpona, the thickened golden beauty of En Avion and the intoxicating florals of French Can Can.  I can’t stress enough that Hera is absolutely breathtaking.  My only dilemma is that since I live in Mexico I can’t purchase a bottle because it’s unavailable here (in stores and for shipping).  So until I travel to other lands, I will have to be patient, because Hera is a perfume that will be added to my collection without hesitation.

  • Bone Rating: 5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose: Liz Moores
  • Classification: Leans feminine, but I believe it’s easily unisex
  • Expense: $310 for 50ml parfum extrait


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Fleur Japonais by Shalini

WHAT I SMELL:   Fleur Japonais opens with a soft milky magnolia that is quickly greeted by lilting cherry blossoms that are seemingly caressed by a light breeze.  The perfume is intoxicating in that it’s full of body, yet light in presence.  But there’s also a hidden strength in the blossoms in that their beauty is full of passion and power with the promise of rebirth.  As the perfume develops, the soft and beautiful florals even out in consistency creating for a blanket that’s silky smooth.  And along with that beautiful blanket is just the right amount of light incense that dreamily floats above the blossoms.  Here, Fleur Japonais feels as if it is creating a passage to an ancient Japanese temple.  In the end, a light powder with the incense and a soft sandalwood residing underneath, makes you feel as if you’re walking along a quiet path laden with freshly fallen pedals; pink above and pink below.  Beyond gorgeous.

From Shalini Parfum:

Fleur Japonais is inspired by the revered Cherry blossoms of Japan. The “Sakura” season is a celebration of life as the pink flowers embrace the temples of Kyoto.

The parfum is a heavenly composition of ephemeral Cherry blossoms, intoxicating Magnolia flowers, Frankincense, Labdanum and Sandalwood.

Fleur Japonais reaches for the heavens as the pink flowers merge with the ethereal smoke from the woods and resins.

In Japanese culture there is an association between the Sakura and the Samurai – the flower and the man. They are both admired for their fleeting beautiful lives. It is believed that the soul of the Samurai lives in the Sakura.

Clouds of pink caressing your face. The delicate fragrance of Cherry blossoms scents the air. The temple bells chime softly as the soft scent of the fragrance floats like pink petals caressing the earth.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Dreaming in a sea of pink.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE FLEUR JAPONAIS:  soft, serene, spiritual

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT FLEUR JAPONAIS:  Colognoisseur, The Plum Girl

BOTTOM LINE:  Simply put, Fleur Japonais isn’t a perfume that is mean to shock, surprise or jolt you with twists and turns.  Instead, it’s quiet beauty just takes you in without force and leads you softly to the most sacred of place within your soul.

  • Bone Rating: 5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Maurice Roucel
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Cubique glass bottle with the glass stopper $500 for 50 ml, Cubique glass bottle with black bulb atomizer $500 for 50 ml,  Small spray bottle $150 for 7.5 ml.  Byzantine glass flacon $1,100 for 100 ml.  White Lacquer and Gold Plated Travel Spray, $415 for 12.5 ml.  All parfum extrait.


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New Release: Le Jardin Retrouvé Mousse Arashiyama

WHAT I SMELL:  Mousse Arashiyama opens with a warmed and softly bright bergamot highlighted with a brush of incense.  It’s comfort right from the start as the bergamot soon settles into a beautifully radiant fig with hints of soft and lightly creamy moss.  Here, the perfume feels like a lullaby with hushed and quiet tones as it has been sung for hundreds of years.  The perfume then moves from the branches above to the ground below as an earthy base settles softly under the fig.  Here, the fresh overturned soil makes Mousse Arashiyama feel rooted in time.  At the same time, rising above the warmed earth is a combination of fig, incense, moss and wood in a radiant but weighted manner.  And with it, just a tinge of greenish vetiver to give the effect of rays of sunshine peaking at the grounded root.  From beginning to end, Mousse Arashiyama is a dream of a perfume.

From the Le Jardin Retrouvé website:

You walk in this forest as in a sacred place. Cradled by the softness of the moss, your steps obey an old instinct, a deep intuition. At the bend of the trail, your eyes finally meet this powerful tree you know, but whose name you do not remember. Your soul, freed from gravity, subtly separates itself from the ground and lingers to savor the scents of oak moss, patchouli, lentiscus and frankincense.

Inspiration: Arashiyama Garden, Kyoto, Japan

Top Notes:  bergamote , encens, lentisque

Middle Notes:  notes aquatique, accord figue

Base Notes: mousse de chêne, vétiver , cèdre

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Victorian Japan.  Connecting the ancient to the modern.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MOUSSE ARASHIYAMA:  reflective, calming, grounded

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MOUSSE ARASHIYAMA:  CaFluereBon, The Sniff, I Sniff Before I Sleep

BOTTOM LINE:  Mousse Arashiyama is a beautiful perfume comprised of peace, harmony and reflection.  The last couple of unsettling years have seemed to blend into this new year.  Thankfully, Mousse Arashiyama will bring you back to the center and with it, promises of hope for 2022.  Thank you Le Jardin Retrouvé.

  • Bone Rating:  5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Aromatic Green
  • Nose: Maxence Moutte
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: 98 Euros for 50 ml eau de parfum.  Also available in 15 ml and 3 ml.   Available exclusively from the Le Jardin Retrouvé website.

Perfume sample provided by Le Jardin Retrouvé.  Opinion my own.