The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Guerlain Chamade Pour Homme

WHAT I SMELL:   The opening of Chamade Pour Homme is a welcomed surprise of warm sensual bergamot and dried black pepper.  It sings, it zings and it’s very debonair and rather sexy as it hits the skin.  In addition, it’s rather beefy without being heavy, but it certainly makes its presence known.  After a short time, a lightly metallic floral note emerges…neither big, nor loud; instead it provides a calming presence to the bold opening.  A nutty note is added to the florals which provides just the right amount of depth without being overly spiced.  As the perfume continues to develop, a very light soapiness and light leather wrap themselves around a brown vetiver.  Eventually, the perfume begins to powder which then brings out the floral heart again.  Here the perfume remains with the most radiant of personality.  Chamade Pour Homme is confident in its masculinity without being brutish.

From the Guerlain website:

In 1999, Jean-Paul Guerlain created this moment of love to respond to the exhilaration of Chamade pour Femme, composed in 1969, a dazzling gift for a beloved woman. This men’s fragrance with its stirring charm makes the heart quiver and the pulse race, just as the momentum of desire kindles awaited pleasure.

Top notes: Italian bergamot, black pepper.
Heart notes: hyacinth, violet leaf note, nutmeg.
Base notes: vetiver, leather, precious wood.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The perfect 1960’s family:  what I envision the dad smells like – clean and confident, and of course he’s one helluva nice guy.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHAMADE POUR HOMME:  semi-tailored, approachable, easy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHAMADE POUR HOMME: EAUMG, WMSSL

BOTTOM LINE:  Chamade Pour Homme isn’t revolutionary, but it’s an incredibly beautiful perfume.  It’s the perfect example of a masculine perfume that doesn’t require its masculinity to be overt.  And the floral heart of the perfume provides for the right amount of softness.  But please Guerlain, can you trade in the woody and boxy perfume bottle for something more attractive?  It actually looks like something that I made in shop class in 7th grade.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody 
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: $250 for 100 ml eau de toilette


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Bruno Fazzolari Monserrat

WHAT I SMELL:   Monserrat’s opening is delightful with its green hue and pink and juicy citrus.  The perfume feels like it’s sparkling in the sun.  It’s bright and vibrant, yet warm and deeply radiant.  After a bit, a rooted note from the earth comes up from beneath and takes the bright to the realm of the plane.  An osmanthus note begins to develop to create a rounded and dry light fruited note.  The perfume is beyond cozy and it wraps around you like the airiness of a feather boa.  It’s pretty, but not delicate, not feminine…but alluring and rather sexual, but not in an overt way.  Instead, it’s sexuality is completely natural.  After quite some time, a light jasmine and musk appear along with a dried layer of putty.   The putty adds a different and unusual element to the aesthetic, making the perfume that more modern…but not any less attractive. In fact, if anything it helps to bring out the peach.  In the end, the perfume takes on a cottony feel.  It’s peach and jasmine wrapped around a spun musk.  Monserrat is sublime.

From the Bruno Fazzolari website:

Inspired by the burnished colors of classic Italian fresco painting: juicy grapefruit and apricot laced through with green leaves and an unusual, fresh setting plaster note. Luscious and radiant.

Notes: pink grapefruit, green leaves, carrot seed, osmanthus, jasmine, white musk, setting plaster.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A peach colored boa.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MONSERRAT:  delicious, modish, distinctive

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MONSERRATColognoisseur, CaFleureBon, The Non-Blonde

BOTTOM LINE:  Monserrat is wonderfully different and modern as well as pretty without being too feminine.  In all, it’s a fabulously unique, but very wearable perfume.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose: Bruno Fazzolari
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $110 for 30 ml eau de toilette.

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.


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Jusbox Perfumes Beat Café

WHAT I SMELL:   Beat Café eases it way on to the skin with a warm, deep, striking coriander which is met with a soured boozy note.  The perfume almost has an undertone of body odor…but not in a repellent way, but in a way that says a shirt has been worn for a few days and has retained a mix of smoke, sweat and booze.  As soon as I write that, a leather note adds another layer to the well worn ensemble.  The leather adds a bit of funk combined with a light hint of danger and a lot of “I just don’t give a damn.”  As the perfume continues to develop, the funky turns more subtle as a sweetened tobacco and light wood adds the right amount of chill.   Here the perfume sits in the perfectly relaxed state of comfort, with a hint of an edge that says although it’s OK to kick back, at any time it might be time to stand up to make a difference in the world.

From the Jusbox website:

The early sixties mark a turning point in history. While war rages around the world, the youth starts to rally against the blind violence and oppression of an establishment it can no longer tolerate. The Beat Generation composed of a group of authors whose literature explores and influences American culture in the post-World War II era, finds its voice in Bob Dylan’s music. His bluesy melodies tinged with vitality, a rich and direct timbre, spread their message of freedom from the USA to Europe. Poet, writer and underground singer, he starts his career with amazing cafe performances. Back then cafes have become mythical meeting points where the younger generation come together to build a counter culture through music, poetry, politic, literature and fashion. A scent of revolution hangs in the air, saturated with tobacco, spirit and leather exuded from the couches where this rebel generation sits imagining a new order till the break of dawn.

Perfume Notes: 

Black Pepper, Coriander Seed, Fine Cognac Accord

Cistus Labdanum Oil, Black Leather, Tobacco

Vetiver, Cedarwood, Benzoin Balm

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A young Bob Dylan.*

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BEAT CAFÉ:  semi-funky, semi-dangerous, semi-hip

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BEAT CAFÉCaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: Beat Café delivers on its’ evocation of the Beat Generation.  It feels like a modern perfume, but has the soul of a bygone era.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Woody
  • Nose:  Domanique Ropian
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Approximately $190 for 78 ml eau de parfum.

*Jusbox is an exclusive range of perfumes whose concept is based on the similarity between perfume and music. Music is the key inspiration for all of their fragrances.  Each of the perfumes is accompanied by a playlist of music associated with the perfume.  In the case of Beat Cafe, much of the playlist contains music by Bob Dylan.  To play the playlist, go to the Beat Café page on the Jusbox website.

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.