The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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V. Intense by Robert Piguet

vintenseWHAT I SMELL:  V. Intense’s opening is a beautiful burst of bergamot and sweet pear which is soon mixed with a warmed saffron.  Deliciously pretty, a ripe and juicy plum note soon comes to the center of the stage.  Not too juicy though, the plum is lush without being saturated.  Actually, it feels like it’s sitting on top of a lush green bouquet of patchouli.  The perfume has an incredibly radiance, as if the plum and patchouli are pushing out this warmed, yet powdered and dried sunny hue.  After some more, a hint of incense appears making the perfume mysterious and seductive.  After which a pencil shaving note of sandalwood appears while the perfume increases its powdery evolution with just the hint of cream.  In the end, the warmed tonka and incense make for lovely modern vintage vibe.

From Robert Piguet Parfums:

V. Intense opens with a burst of bergamot, pear and saffron, a whirling eddy of citrus and spice.  Soft rose, sweet ylang ylang and sumptuous plum unlock the daring core, a dalliance of fruit and floral that lays a warm, exotic path to the fragrance’s denouement.  Patchouli, incense, sandalwood and white musk create a magical dry down, as transporting as it is visceral.

nyc1950sWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Although V. Intense was only launched in 2014, it has a very urban sophisticated 1950s nostalgic feel to me.  It’s pretty and lightly sweet with just the right amount of powder and it feels ’50s fashionable in being neat, trimmed and tailored.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE V. INTENSE: vibrant, energizing, witty

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT V. INTENSE: AustralianPerfumeJunkies, Fragrance Daily

BOTTOM LINE:  V Intense, full of plum, is everything I thought I would not like in a perfume.  Instead, it’s understated beauty and urban sophistication is everything that I crave in a perfume.  I absolutely love it.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Nose: Aurelien Guichard
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Approximately $180 for 100 ml eau de parfum


34 Comments

Absolutely Sublime – Sublime by Jean Patou

WHAT I SMELL:  How can you not love a perfume’s opening when it’s rounded and buttery and topped with bergamot and orange?!  Sublime’s opening is incredibly full, rich and succulent, almost as if it’s an exotic fruit full of juice and ready to explode.   The perfume is heady without being completely over the top and the ylang-ylang is deliciously creamy.  After a few minutes, a light dust of oak moss appears, but it sits quietly under the wafting flowers and a light vanilla.  The perfume smells like it’s plucked from the heart of the Caribbean, but at the same time, there’s something incredibly cool and controlled about it that removes it from that locale.  As the perfume develops, it becomes more powdery, but no less radiant. After 20 minutes or so, the perfume softens, the florals become lighter, the powder becomes more pronounced and the warmed base becomes more prevalent.  What doesn’t change is that the perfume remains an incredible beauty.  In the end, you’re left with a golden dusty floral that is just the right amount of proper and just the right amount of pretty.

From the Jean Patou website:

SUBLIME is a joyous floral explosion, rich and rounded in contour and soft in texture. Its secret resides in the heart notes where floral notes are played against each other – rose and jasmine are combined with lily-of-the-valley and orange blossom, enhanced by warm notes of vetiver, sandalwood and oak moss. A vibrant cocktail of orange and mandarin provides sparkle and freshness, married with Ylang-Ylang from the Comoro Islands. The femininity and sensuality of Sublime gently emerges in the Vanilla base note.

Flight: Bergamot, Mandarin, Orange, Ylang Ylang
Fullness: Rose, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Orange Blossom
Wake: Madagascar Vanilla, Amber, Sandalwood

Ellen Farner Umbrellas of CherbourgWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Ellen Farner as Madeleine in the “Umbrellas of Cherbourg”…an unassuming classic beauty.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SUBLIME: gorgeous, contained, sublime

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SUBLIME: The Non-Blonde, AustralianPerfumeJunkies

BOTTOM LINE:  Sublime seems to take the back seat to Jean Patou’s Joy and 1000; but this understated floral beauty should be second to none.  Not as big as 1000 and not as taut at Joy, Sublime is a perfectly named perfume that in my book is an easier wear than both 1000 and Joy.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Floral
  • Nose: Jean Kerleo
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: Prices vary greatly online, but can be found for around $50 for 1.7 oz. eau de parfum.  Review based on current eau de parfum version.


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New Release: Geisha Vanilla Hinoki by Aroma M

AromaM_Vanilla_2

WHAT I SMELL:  Geisha Vanilla Hinoki opens with a bright bergamot that’s soon met with an exotic blend of lightly sweetened spices; which then quickly moves to more of a sweet and sour spiciness.  There is something that is rather familiar to me in the opening and the only thing that I can think of is Lemon Pledge without the full on “lemon.”  But that soon dissipates and the perfume begins to soften, but I still can’t get out of my head this association of some kind of cleaning wipe, be it a much more subtle and softer one.  After 10 minutes or so, a lightly sugared lavender comes to the forefront along with a bit of creaminess.  The cleaning wipe is now gone and you now have this really soft and comforting perfume that is topped with a bit of sugar and spice and it’s oh so very nice.  As the perfume continues to develop, it becomes more woody with lavender becoming more powdered and radiant.  At this point, the perfume has a rather masculine barber shop vibe and it reminds me of the paper neck wrap that old school barbers put on you prior to cutting your hair.  Geisha Vanilla Hinoki is all warm fuzzies to me at this point.  As the perfume continues to develop, the barber shop association really takes hold and the perfume begins to grow and become slightly smoky.  In the end, Geisha Vanilla Hinoki is all comfort.  Very nice.

From the Aroma M website:

Vanilla scents tend to have a cloying, candied effect. But not Vanilla Hinoki. Its key ingredient is a woodsy, smoky vanilla found only in Morocco.

As for the other ingredients:  They kick off with light and sparkling bergamot combined with spicy, wake-up clove, cardamom, and nutmeg. These segue into more soothing mid-notes: cedarleaf, soft bergamot, and lavender. And finally the lingering drydown: exotic, animalic leather; incense-like patchouli; tropical, evergreen amyris; and cleansing, envigorating cedarwood.

Barber Shop 2WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  An old school barber shop; very comfortable, easy and relaxing.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE GEISHA VANILLA HINOKI: soothing, reassuring, retro

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GEISHA VANILLA HINOKI: CaFleureBon, The Non-Blonde, Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE:  Maybe you need to be a man from my generation when barber shops were where you got your hair cut, not Great Cuts.  There was a very comfortable masculinity in the atmosphere that was laid back without any stress.  You went in feeling a bit messy and you left feeling like a million bucks.  Geisha Vanilla Hinoki brings back all the sensory aspects of this now fading business.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Floral
  • Nose: Maria McElroy
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $90 for 50ml Eau de Parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.  Opinion my own.