oriental floral | The Scented Hound

April 23, 2019
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

Roja Parfums Elixir

WHAT I SMELL: Elixir opens with a soft, sweet, beautiful juicy raspberry and peach. It’s so edible and inviting and it’s an immediate spirit lifter. A luscious rose and a brightened jasmine come sweeping in; mixing in an intoxicating way with the fruity goodness. I always love a perfume that is full of positive energy and Elixir is the epitome of positivity. The perfume starts to take on a layer of cottony musk which adds just the right amount of clean-like sparkle. And soon enough, a light warmth begins to blend with the sweetened cotton which makes the perfume that much more comforting. Not too long in the perfume’s development, Elixir begins to quiet and soften. It’s still lightly sweet, but very demure in the most enticing way.

From the Roja Parfums website:

“Fragrance is like a magical elixir: Invisible, a single drop can transform you into a goddess. It has the power to make you feel irresistible, confident, and seductive – where anything is possible. This magical elixir exudes effortless sensuality – giving you the power to light up a room, to leave an impression, and to get what you want.” – Roja Dove.

Top Notes: Bergamot

Heart Notes: Lily of the Valley, Geranium, Rose de Mai, Jasmin de Grasse, Ylang Ylang, Heliotrope, Violet, Raspberry, Peach

Base Notes: Violet Leaves, Cinnamon, Cedarwood, Casmir Wood, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Orris Sur Cèdre, Orris, Ambrette, Musk

Marilyn Monroe

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Quietly pink.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ELIXIR: soft, inviting, sweetened

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ELIXIR: Ms Tantrum Blog, Fashion for Lunch, fromSandyxo

BOTTOM LINE: I have to admit that Elixir was not love at first sniff. I thought it was pretty, but after wearing it a couple of times, I found that I was craving its quiet beauty. Elixir borders on being a skin scent, because when you are wearing it, it feels as if it’s not projecting. But others around me have been left wondering where the heavenly scent is coming from. Elixir is a very personal fragrance…one that’s easy to make your own.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Roja Dove
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $290 for 100 ml Essence de Parfum. Also available in parfum extrait.

June 12, 2017
by The Scented Hound 17 Comments

Vintage Guerlain L’Heure Bleue

WHAT I SMELL: This particular vintage L’Heure Bleue (why do I say it that way? you’ll see below) eau de toilette opens with a bright and sweet bergamot and spicy anise which first goes on cool to the touch, but then warms considerably and quickly. It smells mysterious and serious and rather mature and slightly medicinal. This is not your Britney Spears of perfumes, but is a perfume that instead dazzles and sings with wisdom and grace. There’s not a great deal of development as the perfume settles in to reside in a floral meld with a spicy carnation and tuberose center that is dusted with a violet powder that wraps the perfume in mysterious wisdom.

The top notes are opening with spicy-sweet aniseed and fresh bergamot that gently lead to the heart of rose, carnation, tuberose, violet, and neroli. The soft and powdery floral notes are resting on a base of vanilla, Tonka bean, iris and benzoin.

Blue silk floral applique gown by Valentino.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A romantic blue silk evening gown.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE L’HEURE BLEUE: mild, measured, solemn

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’HEURE BLEUE: Kafkasesque, Bois de Jasmin, Monsieur Guerlain

BOTTOM LINE: The review above it based on a 1980s sample received from the wonderful Undina. It’s bright, yet serious and very powdery.. and I love it. I recently found a 1980s unopened EdT bottle on eBay for next to nothing. The bright top notes seemed to have faded away and unlike the version I’m writing about, it’s pretty, but much darker has much more rounded florals. It’s nice, but it doesn’t carry the fresh feel like the sample I reviewed. Then a couple of weeks ago I was in an antique store and found this massive Bacarrat bottle (200 ml?) of extrait from the 1930s/40s. There was a sale at the store and I got the 1/2 filled perfume bottle for a great price. The stopper was stuck and thanks to Mr. Freezer, I was able to dive into this treasure. Again, after all these years, the top notes have faded, but the heart is glorious, deep, rich and very serious. So three different versions and 3 very different perfumes. I have to say that the light and pretty 1980s version is a dream and probably my favorite of the three. But overall, none of the versions project on my skin. Maybe it’s me that’s the problem?

This story just keeps getting longer…so about a week after I started writing the above, I felt compelled to purchase a bottle of the current version in the eau de parfum formula. A great price added with a coupon I couldn’t refuse right? Actually, I wasn’t quite sure if I was going to like it… but to my surprise I adore it. It’s not quite as sunny as the vintage Undina sample, but it’s lighter and sweeter than my vintage EdT and parfum. There’s a little incense in it and a little powder as it’s completely understated. But what it defined for me, is that no matter what formula the perfume is in…my skin just eats it up and that means it has a pretty short lifespan on me. That’s unusual for me, but I’m OK with it because I love to slather myself in any and all versions. BTW, the new EdP layered with my old vintage EdT is divine!

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Jacques Guerlain
Classification: Marketed as feminine but to me it’s very unisex
Expense: Prices vary for vintage versions, but the current EdP can be purchased for as low as $60 for 100 ml.

April 17, 2017
by The Scented Hound 18 Comments

Xerjoff Oesel

WHAT I SMELL: Oesel opens like the dawn of a new day with a creamy, smooth, layered orange blossom. It’s as if the sun warmed blossoms have exploded with their fragrant projection just at the peak of the late morning. The florals are rich, thick and bountiful without being overtly juicy or sweet. The mix of florals including jasmine, mimosa and Bulgarian rose are blended as if they were carried in the most fragrant nosegay and are melded so seamlessly as to defy you to be able to distinguish them, but for the voluminous orange blossom. In addition, Oesel is warm and full of bright yellow hazy sun and when smelled on the skin, the perfume retreats to the depth of your lungs. After a while, a consistent and dried wood begins to float under the orange blossom giving the perfume an added dimension with just the slightest of dirt and earth. Oesel is golden in every sense of the word.

From Fragrantica –

Oesel perfume from the Shooting Stars Collection is a symphony of bright and rich notes perfectly mixed with the best raw ingredients. Orange blossom and petitgrain from Paraguay lead the path to the heart of Bulgarian rose and Sambac jasmine, which are skillfully wrapped in sophisticated mimosa and white flowers. Graceful result of this mixed breed is the ambery wooden base of Indian patchouli, cedar and tobacco flower, which exudes the character, depth and persistence.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: An orange blossom boutounniere…the perfect perfume for your wedding day.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE OESEL: rapturous, uplifting, joyous

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT OESEL: Now Smell This, CaFleureBon, Confessions of a Perfume Nerd

BOTTOM LINE: I finally set forth cleaning up my office and the stash of perfume samples that were invading every corner of the room. There were quite a few of the perfumes I didn’t even realize I had in my possession. So off came the tops of many for a quick smell. Oesel was the loveliest of surprises and I wish I had tested it sooner. In fact I loved it so much so that the next day I purchased a bottle. How’s that for an endorsement?!

Bone Rating: 5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Classification: Marketed for men, but could easily be worn by a woman.
Expense: Varied…mid $200 for 100 ml eau de parfum