The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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New Release: Sandor 70’s by Carner Barcelona

carnersandos70sWHAT I SMELL:  Sandor 70’s completes a kick-start with a quick blast of bergamot that soon melds into a wonderfully warm floral suede.  The florals then move to the more herbal with a clary sage note that is front and center.  The perfume is smooth and incredibly engaging.  Neither feminine nor masculine, the perfume defies a label.  As the perfume continues to develop, it really begins to project and a dry woody timbre pushes out a light powder.  Continuing on, a smoky note appears along with a dry vetiver, but as soon as I write that, the dryness makes way for a buttery vanilla.  Here, the perfume is simply sublime as it fills the air with a rich, sophisticated suede that feels like it’s coming from a well of nature.  It’s not dirty, nor heavy, instead, the perfume feels earthy and grounded and nostalgic.  As it continues to unfold, the tobacco and the leather mix in a swirl of wafting smoke.  Here, the dirt from the cobblestone streets meet the soles of the well-worn shoes that walk them.

From the Carner Barcelona website:

inspiration:  “At the crest of upper Barcelona once a place to see and be seen, an iconic bar where the smoke of cigars flirted with the aristocratic leather armchairs…”

top notes – Suede Accord, Italian bergamot, Vintage Jasmin absolute, Chinese osmanthus absolute, Bulgarian rose essence

mid notes – Tobacco Accord,  Clary sage absolute, Virginian cedar wood, Peru balsam, Mexican vanilla extract

base notes –  Spanish leather accord, Patchouli essence, Vetyver essence, Ethiopian frankincense extract, Oak moss absolute

wellwornsandalWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Your favorite pair of well-worn leather/suede sandals.  So comfortable, like an old friend.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SANDOR 70’s:  vintage, careworn, comfortable

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SANDOR 70’s: Fragrance Daily

BOTTOM LINE:  Part of the new Black Collection, Sandor 70’s is my favorite among the three perfumes in the line.  Here, the nod to nostalgia is done perfectly and makes this a leather perfume that’s perfect for those who don’t like their leather over the top.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Leather
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $220 for 50 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily.


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Bucoliques de Provence by L’Artisan Parfumeur

bucoliques-de-provenceWHAT I SMELL:  Not surprisingly, Bucoliques de Provence opens with a soft cashmere iris which is soon met with a deep brown sugared and herbal lavender.  It’s slightly medicinal, but very comforting; and in all it’s just so pretty and calming.  Soon, a mix of herbs and spices pepper the lavender, making the perfume feel a bit chewy vs. the standard powdered dry lavender that we associate with the note.  As the perfume continues to develop, it begins to flatten and it takes on a more woody consistency.  At the same time, the spices really come forward…actually, in a quite caustic manner.  What used to be calming, now has an unfortunate bite.  After quite some time, the lavender turns to a laundry detergent familiarity and the perfume feels like it should be used as more of a bed or room spray.  Supposedly there is some leather in here, but I’m not picking any of it up.  Instead I am getting a dried flower kitchen witch vibe…and that’s not a good thing.  After quite some time, the iris comes back in with a light powder and the kitchen witch begins to dissipate.  The perfume becomes soft and kind of pretty…but unfortunately I’m left with a headache caused by the kitchen witch development

kitchen-witch

Kitchen Witch

From the L’Artisan Parfumeur website:

Bucoliques de Provence is a limited edition fragrance. It marks the beginning of a new collection inspired by different regions of France. This perfume pays homage to the history of Grasse. Perfumery in this region with its distinctive lavender fields, dates back to the 17th century and is linked to the historic production of leather. The perfumer has combined lavender and leather with iris and spices creating a soft, faceted scent. Bucoliques de Provence is modern in its pure and naturalistic approach.

Inspired by the savoir-faire of artisans in Grasse, an accord of leathery lavender, modernised by iris and spices.

gray-gooseWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A gray goose…kind of pretty, but not as pretty as a white swan, a little annoying and not as fun as a duck.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BUCOLIQUES DE PROVENCE: wannabe, wafting, cleanser

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BUCOLIQUES DE PROVENCE: The Scented Salamander, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: The perfume’s opening is divine until you get to the kitchen witch in the middle which makes you want to run.  In the end, the perfume does calm down and becomes a quiet powdered iris, but that’s not enough of a save to make me want to come back.

  • Bone Rating:  2.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Leather?
  • Nose: Fabrice Pellegrin
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $105 for 50 ml eau de parfum


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Adjatay cuir narcotique by The Different Company

adjatayWHAT I SMELL:  This latest release from The Different Company opens with a semi-sweet and creamy orange ylang-ylang that’s lightly leathered and oh so pretty.  The perfume is tinged on the top with a light burnt marshmallow coating that rests very clearly as a puffy cloud on top of the leathered floral.  After a short time, the leather begins to project and bounce off the skin as the emerging tuberose restrains itself allowing for the subtle leather to take the center stage.  But it’s the light and pretty understated tuberose that gives the perfume its pretty personality.  Overall, Adjatay is warm and restrained…it pulls you in without begging you to do so.  As the perfume continues to develop, the tonka and sandalwood deepen the fragrance with a peppered leather that seems to pulsate.  The perfume ends it’s journey with a deep, warm beefy old world leather with the muted florals sweetened by the tonka wrapped up within the walls of the leather hide.

From The Different Company website:

“Tanned, flexible, grain-embossed, full-grain, varnished… I have always loved working on leather notes for their carnal facets and the infinite possibilities they offer. For “ADJATAY, cuir narcotique” I wanted to work on a full, dark and textured leather, a leather that squeaks in your hands, a leather with a debauchery sillage. To obtain these particular effects, I associated dark and spicy notes with Styrax essence, Castoreum essence and Papyrus essential oil. On this leather structure, I dropped off a subversive Tuberose from which narcotic notes get away to engulf the atmosphere. The osmosis between Leather and Tuberose is perfect, neither one gets the upper hand, they are vibrating and matching each other creating a vigorous addiction”  

Perfumer Alexandra Monet

Top notes are ylang-ylang and mandarin orange; middle notes are tuberose, jasmine and heliotrope; base notes are castoreum, styrax, papyrus, tonka bean, sandalwood and musk.

polo1WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The polo club…the smell of worn leather, the dried wood of the stalls and the light sweat produced from playing under the sun while the heated and heady florals on the sidelines invade the field.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ADJATAY: care-worn, unique, confident

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ADJATAY:  Megan in Saint Maxime, BL’eauOGColognoisseur,

BOTTOM LINE: The melding of leather and tuberose in Adjatay is brilliant and could easily be perfect for those who never thought they would like a leather or a tuberose perfume.  Pretty and lightly sweet enough for woman, this works equally as well for a man.  Wear it with your leather jacket and the perfume becomes dangerous…wear it with your tweeds and sweater and it becomes proper.  Overall, it’s like a fine fitting leather pair of gloves that you absolutely love to wear.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Leather
  • Nose: Alexandra Monet
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $195 for 100 ml Eau de Parfum