The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Corpus Equus by Naomi Goodsir

WHAT I SMELL:  The opening of Corpus Equus is anything but quiet with its burst of birch, soured leather and hint of a soft floral that quickly moves completely to a urinous birch tar.  The composition is cool and rather damp and it smells as if a campfire has been doused by cold water and where the smoke from the fire has infused into your clothes.  Sometimes that can be a comforting smell.  Here, it just feels pungent, soured and rather jolting.  The leather does come out slowly and it does help to pull the perfume away from the fire and in doing so it helps tame it to a more wearable stage.  Corpus Equus continues to settle and with it comes a sharpened note which helps to continue to cut the birch tar.  Here, the perfume becomes more of a leathered radiant forcefield which is more earthy and grounded in its feel.  In the end, a smooth buttery layer begins to come forward along with a soft amber.  What started off as a raging stallion has turned into a rather tame pony.

From the Naomi Goodsir website:

DARK / ANIMALISTIC / WILD

A deep black animalistic composition, with assertive leather notes.

Inspiration – A tribute to a fiery & impetuous horse

Corpus Equus Notes:  black rose petal, horsehair, leather, cigarette ash, Tonkin musk, amber infusion

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A dude ranch.  For city folk, the ranch may initially be a shock to the senses, but soon enough the scents of the ranch are smoothed out for their suburban patrons.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CORPUS EQUUSjolting, contrary, smooth

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CORPUS EQUUS: CaFleureBon, The Sniff

BOTTOM LINE:  Corpus Equus is a perfume that starts off in the barn and ends up in a Ralph Lauren ad.  You wonder if you can get past the startling entrance where you are tempted to run.  But like a wild horse, it does get tamed in the end and it turns out to be rather lovely.  But Corpus Equus probably wouldn’t be best suited for wearing to the grocery store and it’s definitely not suited for the office.  Actually, I’m not sure where I would wear this.  It’s interesting, but..

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Leather
  • Noses:  Bertrand Douchaufour
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $187 for 50 ml eau de parfum


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Sarah Baker Perfumes – Bascule

SB BasculeWHAT I SMELL:   Bascule opens with a buzzing bergamot that is quickly met with a weighted ripened peach and a soft, but soured leather.  The perfume is not sweet, nor juicy, but is more dried and grassy as it begins to project.  It’s as if it resides in a wind swept field that holds sun dried orchard fruit.  You immediately take notice that Bascule is a perfume that is not rooted in the city.  And as such, even if you’re an urban dweller that never travels outside the city limits, you’ll be immediately transported to the countryside.  As the perfume continues to develop, a green note comes forward, but the perfume remains in the dry realm, but the green makes the perfume feel a bit lighter and more approachable and carefree.  Here the perfume remains, nicely green with a dried soft leather on top of a hay accord with tufts of tobacco.  It’s just the right amount of earthy countryside for even the most confirmed city slicker.

From the Sarah Baker Perfumes website:

Horses, hay and leather. The sun-ripened notes of succulent fruit, woods and prominent green notes amidst a notable bass of earthy tones and noblesse oblige. Equestrian.

Notes: grass, peach, bergamot, lily of the valley, hay, leather accord, vetiver, amber, musk, fir, tobacco, metal tack.

windswept grassy hillWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A windswept grassy hill.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BASCULE:  green, earthy, unique

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BASCULENotetaking, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  Bascule is wonderfully unique and I was surprised at just how green it becomes in the drydown.  The green dried grass with just the hint of leather transports the wearer to the country in the most wonderful of ways.  Nice job Sarah Baker!

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Leather
  • Nose: Ashley Eden Kessler
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $95 for 50 ml eau de parfum


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Morning Chess – Vilhelm Parfumerie

WHAT I SMELL:  Morning Chess opens with a sparkling, yet muted bergamot that is soon met with a lightly sweetened leather.  Quickly a blackberry/currant note enters in the most ethereal way.  It’s light, doesn’t overpower and it’s completely dreamlike.  And gliding right behind the berries enters an evergreen note.  Here, the perfume feels like a warmed northern forest partially lit from the sun as it hits the top of the trees and the green grass that it manages to reach at the forest bottom below.  As it continues to develop, the green fir moves to the warmer with a low dose golden amber.  Here, the perfume feels like you’re in a warmed meadow at the edge of the forest where the smell of the fir lingers in the air.   In the end, the perfume dances between a berry like lightly sweet patchouli and the fir.  In all, the perfume maintains the lightest of touch and the fir notes stay muted in perfect harmony with the fruit and leather.  Morning Chess is an exceptional perfume with a Scandinavian sensibility…it’s simple, clean and perfectly peaceful.

From the Vilhelm Parfumerie website:

Bright endless mornings in a cottage, minds battling in wit over a chessboard: the memories of Jan’s summers shared with his grandfather. The ripe, green lushness of summer on the Swedish coast, where grassy notes are light enough to hint at the evergreen sharpness of the distant winter air.

Top:  Bergamot
Middle : Tuscan Leather, Galbanum
Base : Patchouli, Black Amber

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A dreamlike Swedish garden spot.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MORNING CHESS:  calming, comforting, contented

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MORNING CHESSLife in a Cold Climate, Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE:  The other morning I had applied Morning Chess before heading out of the house. When I came back hours later, I jumped in the pool to cool off.  In between my dozing on my float, I kept getting whiffs of the most beautiful lightly berried fir scent and wondered where it was coming from.  Finally, I realized that the incredibly pretty scent was coming from me.  The heat of the sun had pulled the perfume off of my skin and surrounded me in the most beautiful haze.  Not many perfumes can enrapture me in such a way.

* Sample provided by Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.