The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Chanel No. 19 Eau de Toilette

WHAT I SMELL:  Chanel No. 19 opens with bright aldehydes and a sweetened bergamot that quickly turns to a buttery iris that is so radiantly smooth that it glides on the skin as if it’s surfing just a milliliter off of your body.  Right from first spritz the perfume has a big presence, but it’s neither harsh nor abrasive.  Instead, it’s incredibly inviting with its positive energy.  After a bit, the perfume begins to dry and powder and the galbanum increasingly radiates with a dusty aura.  After some more time, the greenish galbanum and the lilting iris begin to flatten and a light sandalwood partners in the mix.  It’s here where Chanel No. 19 retreats in this warmed aura of green radiant sunshine.  Chanel No. 19 eau de toilette is an incredible perfume that’s easy to wear and easy to love.

From the Chanel website:

Daring, distinctive and uncompromising. A floral, woody, green fragrance with perfect balance.

An ideal harmony between the vibrant, green notes of Galbanum and the soft, powdery notes of Iris.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Happy and perfectly content.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CHANEL NO. 19:  powdery, comfortable, radiant

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHANEL NO. 19:  Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE:  Chanel No. 19 is a classic that’s easy to wear, fresh and completely unpretentious while at the same time is incredibly beautiful and long lasting.  To me, Chanel No. 19 eau de toilette is a perfect Christmas present because it’s affordable, delightful and more importantly, because it’s Chanel!

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Chypre
  • Nose:  Henri Robert
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense:  $110 for 100ml eau de toilette.


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Vintage Ma Griffe by Carven

WHAT I SMELL:  Ma Griffe opens with bright aldehydes followed by a mix of florals that turn surprisingly green.   There’s an undercurrent of rapturous warmth that sits below the florals that makes the perfume heady and full-bodied in a rather provocative manner.  Ma Griffe is not shy in the least and as it goes on she tells you exactly who she is right from the beginning.  As the perfume continues to develop, there’s a note or combination of notes that reminds me of slightly worn silk undergarments.  It’s a mix of perfume, powder and just a hint of light sweat gained from normal daily activity.  As such, this makes Ma Griffe a veritible seductress.  As the perfume continues to morph, the florals begin to deepen with tonka bean taking root along side a drying oak moss.  Here, Ma Griffe is fully in charge and makes it known that she is all woman and doesn’t mind if you call her a dame.

Top notes: Aldehydes, clary sage, galbanum, bergamot
Heart notes: Gardenia, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose
Base notes: Cinnamon, tonka bean, vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The unapologetic user of men; Barbara Stanwyck in the pre-code classic movie “Babyface.”

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MA GRIFFEbold, seductive, empowered

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MA GRIFFE:  Yesterday’s Perfume, Smelly Blog, Perfume Shrine

BOTTOM LINE:  I acquired the bottle pictured above years ago from a woman who was cleaning out her aunt’s estate.  I believe it’s from the 1970’s or ’80s and is the EDT “mis-s-s-ster” version.  The “mister” no longer works so it comes out of the bottle dribbling from under the sprayer.  I imagine that the mister would provide a bit of a softer experience, but I can’t say for sure.  For me, Ma Griffe is interestingly bold and beautiful, but I find that it’s not something I gravitate to or wear very often.  I think’s it’s because I like my vintage perfumes to have a bit of a soft side and Ma Griffe is anything but soft from start to finish.  Still, it’s a pretty darn amazing perfume.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre Floral
  • Classification:  Feminine
  • Expense:  Prices for vintage vary considerably on concentration, etc.


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Bvlgari Noorah

Have you ever become obsessed about a perfume you wish you owned?  Well, for me that perfume was Bvlgari’s Noorah.  A few years back while wandering through Duty Free at the Bangkok airport, I came across a display for the Bvlgari La Gemme collection which I had heard of, but hadn’t experienced.  Many of the perfumes in the collection were incredible, but Noorah stood out and was love at first spritz.  But always cost conscious I found the price was just too high so I walked away from a purchase;  that is, after I drenched myself in the perfume.  Sitting atop my cloud of perfume on the plane was pure delight and thus began my obsession.

Of course, after spending a great deal of money on vacation, I put perfume purchases out of my mind.  I then found out a couple of years ago, that the perfume had been discontinued and that piqued my interest in Noorah once again.  I saw that there were some decent prices on eBay, but being in Mexico, shipping is impossible.  But luckily a year ago, I found the perfume on Amazon Mexico for a decent price.  I was thrilled that I had finally found my holy grail until I received the perfume and it was clear that it was a fake.  Thanks to Amazon, I got an immediate refund without any questions.

Then recently, I found Noorah on a fragrance website that actually ships to Mexico…and at a great price!  So one month later (yes, it takes that long for shipments to arrive in Mexico) I finally was re-introduced to my obsession.  Does it live up to my memories?

WHAT I SMELL:  Noorah has a strange opening that’s mildly chewy and a little waxy with what seems to be chocolate and sometimes leather combined with a Playdoh iris.  I have to say that this weird opening is not my favorite primarily because the chocolate note has a soured edge that is a bit off-putting.  But given all that, the initial wear is rather quiet and subdued.  As the perfume continues to develop, a light cardamom and pepper with just a hint of honey is added which gives an extra light bite.  However, overall the perfume remains soft and lightly creamy as the waxy wanes to just plain smooth.   After some time, Noorah begins to come out from under her creamy veil with a light powdery sweetened iris with hints of pepper.  It’s baby soft, lightly projected and incredibly pretty with the perfect mix of lightly sweet and lightly powdered.  As the perfume continues to develop, a lightly warmed wood slides in below the powdered haze.  In the end, Noorah leaves the wearer cocooned in a powdered iris cloud.  Heavenly.

Additional note:  Noorah’s DNA seems to change a great deal with the weather.  Warm and humid, the perfume has great projection and the woody note at the end is more prominent.  Cool and dry weather keeps the the perfume very powdery with light projection that’s close to the skin.  Either way, the perfume is fantastic.

From the Bvlgari website:

From Nishapur, the long journey from Orient to Occident. Turquoise takes us on a journey along the Silk and Spice Routes of yore. The most beautiful specimens come from the region of Nishapur, an exceedingly ancient city in Central Asia, and one of the crossroads of the mythical Silk Route. Caravans belonging to Turkish traders brought the turquoise to Europe, giving the gemstone its name. A stone of the bright blue sky, a nomad gem recalling open spaces. Noorah, an evocative name embodying the exuberance of the infinite heavens. Its rich, mysterious and sensual fragrance captures the magnificence of the Silk and Spice Routes. Narguile Vapors – Candied Dates – Laotian Benzoin.

Notes:  Iris, tobacco, oak, benzoin, honey, galbanum, vanilla, ginger, cardamom, patchouli.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Hues of pink and violet, scarves, makeup and powder…and oh so much glamour.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE NOORAHsoft, elegant, powdery

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NOORAH:  No reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  So is Noorah the perfume that I remember?  Yes, it is.  I was a bit worried when I first sprayed it on my skin, but after a short time, the beauty of the perfume and my memories of that first plane ride wearing it came rushing back.  In other words, I have no regrets with my purchase.  Mission accomplished…off to my next perfume obsession!

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chype Floral
  • Nose:  Daniela Andrier
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: Prices vary depending on purchase location.  Available in 100 ml eau de parfum.