The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Grossmith Amelia

WHAT I SMELL:  Amelia sweeps quietly in the room as not to make a noticeable announcement of her arrival with a soft, warm muted osmanthus and the quietest neroli.  Soon, the softest of florals enter with rose as the lead, along with just a bit of soap, still ever so faintly but with a warm heart.  There’s something wonderfully radiating about the perfume, but in the most serene of manner.  And Amelia doesn’t develop as much as it blends.  It moves with quiet steps that make the notes indistinguishable as they’re so wonderfully fused together in veil of floral beauty.  Amelia is a comfort scent that doesn’t feel as if it needs to please anyone, but with it brings a warm character of incredible grace and a gentle demeanor.

From the Grossmith website:

This feminine scent was created in honour of Amelia Brooke, Simon’s great grandmother, who was the key to his discovery of the lost perfume house. Amelia’s father was the founder, John Grossmith.

Amelia is a soft and elegant chypre which opens with enticing notes of neroli and osmanthus, and develops into a smooth floral heart of rose, peony and jasmine, supported by warm amber. Patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver and cashmere musks form the long-lasting and rounded base.

Top notes – neroli, osmanthus; Heart notes – rose, jasmine, peony, amber; Base notes – patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, cashmere musks

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Little Women’s Marmee – a beautiful heart.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE AMELIA:  soft, quiet, understated

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AMELIA:  CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Amelia is a hard perfume to describe because it’s blended so seamlessly and is so incredibly muted.  But as a soft floral that is so quiet and beautiful it surprisingly leaves a long lasting impression as it stays on the skin for a long time with a gentle whisper.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Chypre Floral
  • Nose:  Trevor Nicholl
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense:  Approximately $310 for 50 ml eau de parfum.  Also available in 100 ml.


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Chanel No. 19 Eau de Toilette

WHAT I SMELL:  Chanel No. 19 opens with bright aldehydes and a sweetened bergamot that quickly turns to a buttery iris that is so radiantly smooth that it glides on the skin as if it’s surfing just a milliliter off of your body.  Right from first spritz the perfume has a big presence, but it’s neither harsh nor abrasive.  Instead, it’s incredibly inviting with its positive energy.  After a bit, the perfume begins to dry and powder and the galbanum increasingly radiates with a dusty aura.  After some more time, the greenish galbanum and the lilting iris begin to flatten and a light sandalwood partners in the mix.  It’s here where Chanel No. 19 retreats in this warmed aura of green radiant sunshine.  Chanel No. 19 eau de toilette is an incredible perfume that’s easy to wear and easy to love.

From the Chanel website:

Daring, distinctive and uncompromising. A floral, woody, green fragrance with perfect balance.

An ideal harmony between the vibrant, green notes of Galbanum and the soft, powdery notes of Iris.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Happy and perfectly content.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CHANEL NO. 19:  powdery, comfortable, radiant

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHANEL NO. 19:  Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE:  Chanel No. 19 is a classic that’s easy to wear, fresh and completely unpretentious while at the same time is incredibly beautiful and long lasting.  To me, Chanel No. 19 eau de toilette is a perfect Christmas present because it’s affordable, delightful and more importantly, because it’s Chanel!

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Chypre
  • Nose:  Henri Robert
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense:  $110 for 100ml eau de toilette.


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Vintage Ma Griffe by Carven

WHAT I SMELL:  Ma Griffe opens with bright aldehydes followed by a mix of florals that turn surprisingly green.   There’s an undercurrent of rapturous warmth that sits below the florals that makes the perfume heady and full-bodied in a rather provocative manner.  Ma Griffe is not shy in the least and as it goes on she tells you exactly who she is right from the beginning.  As the perfume continues to develop, there’s a note or combination of notes that reminds me of slightly worn silk undergarments.  It’s a mix of perfume, powder and just a hint of light sweat gained from normal daily activity.  As such, this makes Ma Griffe a veritible seductress.  As the perfume continues to morph, the florals begin to deepen with tonka bean taking root along side a drying oak moss.  Here, Ma Griffe is fully in charge and makes it known that she is all woman and doesn’t mind if you call her a dame.

Top notes: Aldehydes, clary sage, galbanum, bergamot
Heart notes: Gardenia, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose
Base notes: Cinnamon, tonka bean, vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The unapologetic user of men; Barbara Stanwyck in the pre-code classic movie “Babyface.”

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MA GRIFFEbold, seductive, empowered

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MA GRIFFE:  Yesterday’s Perfume, Smelly Blog, Perfume Shrine

BOTTOM LINE:  I acquired the bottle pictured above years ago from a woman who was cleaning out her aunt’s estate.  I believe it’s from the 1970’s or ’80s and is the EDT “mis-s-s-ster” version.  The “mister” no longer works so it comes out of the bottle dribbling from under the sprayer.  I imagine that the mister would provide a bit of a softer experience, but I can’t say for sure.  For me, Ma Griffe is interestingly bold and beautiful, but I find that it’s not something I gravitate to or wear very often.  I think’s it’s because I like my vintage perfumes to have a bit of a soft side and Ma Griffe is anything but soft from start to finish.  Still, it’s a pretty darn amazing perfume.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre Floral
  • Classification:  Feminine
  • Expense:  Prices for vintage vary considerably on concentration, etc.