The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Hermès 24, Faubourg

24,FaubourgIf you like to shop around and explore estate sales, you know that every once in a blue moon you’ll run across one that is truly special.  Recently, I found a sale that mentioned a large collection of perfumes, but didn’t have pictures or brand names listed.  I took a chance.  As it turns out, the woman of the house was a former sales representative for Escada and Annick Goutal so there was quite the collection.  No one at the sale was interested in the perfumes, so I snatched up a collection of 3 100 ml perfumes, a couple of fragrance brand candles and 12 mini perfumes for $90.  One of those perfumes was a full 100 ml bottle of Hermes 24, Faubourg eau de toilette.  Whereas some of the perfumes there were multiple in stock, the Hermès was the only one.  I had to snatch it up.  By the way, the next week, I noted that they moved the remaining bottles of perfumes that didn’t sell to another sale that was in walking distance from my house.  Of course I had to go back!  I managed to pick up two 125 ml tester bottles of Annick Goutal EdTs, Passion and Heure Exquise for $5 each!  How could I say no to such bargains?!

Now before I get into my review, I should note that I did purchase a bottle of 24, Faubourg EDP a couple of years ago. As much of a fan as I am of white floral perfumes, I found the eau de parfum version much to cloying and heavy for my tastes.  So buying the EdT was a gamble.  Let’s see if it payed off…

WHAT I SMELL:  24, Faubourg opens with a vibrant, bright, a rather sugared ylang ylang which quickly moves to a warmer pulsating rapturous collection of florals which are seamless in their blending.  After a short time, an ambered warmth sets base for a rounded bouquet dusted with oak moss and a spiced jasmine begins to dominate.  There’s not much progression in 24, Faubourg, but in the end, the perfume resides in a pared down “big” floral heaven.  24 Faubourg is a striking beauty that falls into the big floral category like Ysatis and 1000.  But 24 Faubourg is one of those perfumes that doesn’t play second fiddle to anyone.

From the Hermès website:

A novel composed by Maurice Roucel in 1995, 24, Faubourg is an invitation to travel, with the sun as its destination. A sparkle of white flowers in the top notes, the radiance of a floral heart enveloped in irises, woods and mystery, while vanilla and ambergris set the tone for the sillage.

PrincessGraceat50WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A woman of refinement; Princess Grace in her later years.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE 24, FAUBOURG: radiant, warm, in-control

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT 24, FAUBOURG: Now Smell This, I Smell Therefore I Am, Olfactoria’s Travels

BOTTOM LINE:  Whereas the eau de parfum version of 24, Faubourg was just too heavy for me, the eau de toilette version fits just right.  I absolutely am in love with this floral beauty.  This will be a mainstay in my collection for years to come!

  • Bone Rating:  5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre Floral
  • Nose: Maurice Roucel
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $150 for 3.3 oz. Eau de Toilette


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Two from Le Galion – Whip & Special for Gentlemen

whip_le-galionWHAT I SMELL:  Whip has a wonderfully bright citrus opening. It sparkles, is lightly spicy and overall zesty, and is warmed with a light lavender which gives it a very classical feel.  I love it when a citrus fragrance can make you feel like you’re wearing a starched white shirt when you may just be wearing a t-shirt.   Whip does just that.  After around 10 minutes, the zesty opening starts to calm, and the citrus begins to meld with the delicate florals which are incredibly pretty.  There’s a heavy dose of galbanum which is mixed with an oak moss; creating a radiant haze of powdered freshness.  After around 30 minutes, the perfume is met with a very light leather which tames the green of the perfume and which makes the final stage smooth as silk.  Whip is uncomplicated, fresh and easy to wear and is perfect for when you are dressing up, or dressing down.

From the Le Galion website:

1953: Queen Elizabeth II was crowned Queen at the age of 27 while New York celebrated the opening of the Guggenheim Museum and Audrey Hepburn starred in “Roman Holiday”. Le Galion launched Whip, a fresh and young fragrance, especially refreshing in the summer. Originally created for men, women also grabbed hold of it quickly.

A return to its origins; to freshness, tone and distinction for this timeless Cologne fragrance; a fragrance that suits both men and women. Although in classic fresh and citrus fragrance territory,Whip exudes a certain modernity, It opens on a very citrusy note, created by the marriage of lemons from Verdelli and Calabrian bergamot. Tarragon, lavender and cardamom provide the aromatic notes. The heart of the fragrance is worked around floral notes such as jasmine, violet and a hint of iris, all accentuated by the powerful woody notes of galbanum. The background is softened and warmed with heady notes of oak moss, patchouli and vetiver grass oil. Leather notes give this fragrance its huge personality.

Head notes | Verdelli Citrus, Calabrian Bergamot, Tarragon, Lavander, Cardamom
Heart notes | Jasmine, Violet, Iris, Galbanum
Base notes | Oak Moss, Vetiver, Patchouli, Leather Notes

The Croquet Game, Edouard Manet - 1873

The Croquet Game, Edouard Manet – 1873

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A beautiful bucolic day, perfect for a game of croquet.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE WHIP:  clean, neat, classic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT WHIP:  Le Mouchoir Perfume, Colognoisseur

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre
  • Nose: David Maruitte
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: 140 Euros for 100 ml Eau de Parfum from the Le Galion website

Special for Gentelmen2WHAT I SMELL:  Special for Gentlemen opens with a beautiful warmed luxurious lavender, tinged with citrus and bergamot.  There’s a lovely powdered amber which is highlighted by a pulsating cinnamon, but it’s so incredibly subtle as it mixes with the amber and labdanum.  After around 15 minutes, a slightly soured edge appears along with a powdered vanilla and oak moss.  The perfume is reverant, solid and masculine but not in a beefy or heavy-handed way.  In the end, you are left with a warmed, slightly soured vanillaed perfume that is proper; but very sensual at its core.  Very sexy.

From the Le Galion website:

1947: The Marshall Plan was launched. The French people dreamt of luxury and escape. Roger Vivier invented the stiletto heel, Christian Dior launched the New Look and Miss Dior, and Le Galion created Special for Gentlemen, a masculine fragrance, distinguished and refined; a fragrance to wear at all times. Discreet, refreshing, yet lingering, it is like no other. It is a luxury fragrance for men.

A tribute to the legacy of expertise, excellence and “savoir-vivre”. True to the spirit of Paul Vacher in the re-issue of this classic and elegant fragrance. A masculine fragrance, reviving the ancient traditions of the art of perfumery, using noble materials.

A beautiful Oriental Amber fragrance that opens on fresh and aromatic notes. Subtle notes of lavender and lemon are accompanied by a touch of woody galbanum. A balsamic note of cinnamon brings softness to the blend. This lasting woody amber fragrance is achieved by generously combining amber, cistus labdanum and patchouli. Finally, soft balsamic notes and a slightly animalised note lend this sensual fragrance lots of sensuality – a marriage of vanilla, opoponax and castoreum.

Head notes | Bergamot, Citrus, Lavender, Galbanum
Heart notes | Cinammon, Amber, Cistus Labdanum, Patchouli
Base notes | Oak Moss, Vanilla, Castoreum, Opoponax

Henry Cavill Man from UNCLEWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Henry Cavill in the upcoming release “The Man from U.N.C.L.E.”; sexy, daring and dashing

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE SPECIAL FOR GENTLEMEN:  handsome, confident, controlled

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SPECIAL FOR GENTLEMEN: Chemist in the BottleLa gardenia nell’occhiello

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Aromatic Fougere
  • Nose: David Maruitte
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: 140 Euros for 100 ml Eau de Parfum from the Le Galion website

BOTTOM LINE:  I love seeing the resurrection of these classic perfume houses.  There’s a very straightforward elegance about each of the reissued perfumes which feel classic, but not historic, so you don’t feel as if you’re wearing a worn out version of your mother or father’s old wardrobe.  As much as I like both of these perfumes, I have to admit that Le Galion’s Iris is probably my favorite from the reissued perfumes.   Clean, light and pretty, it’s an iris that doesn’t drag you down in the dirt, but instead makes you feel like you’re floating on an iris cloud.  Welcome back Le Galion!


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Vintage Dior Dioressence

Dioressence

WHAT I SMELL:  Dioressence opens with a warm and bold patchouli combined with a tad of vanilla. It’s pretty, warm and inviting.  That initial blast of patchouli starts to diminish to reveal a creamy floral mix punctuated with a spicy carnation.  After 10 minutes, the perfume begins to dry and become lightly powdered which is great because it helps to pull the perfume away again from being dominated by the patchouli.  After another 20 minutes the softens a bit more, but at the heart of Dioressence is a warm and inviting patchouli that tops a rounded and rather beefy mix of florals.  Dioressence is radiant, slightly carnal and very in control.

Notes from Fragrantica:

Top notes are aldehydes, orange, fruity notes, patchouli, green notes and bergamot; middle notes are carnation, tuberose, cinnamon, violet, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose and geranium; base notes are musk, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, oakmoss, vetiver and styrax.

Central Park - FallWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Central Park NYC in the Fall.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE DIORESSENCE:  secure, confident, sensual

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DIORESSENCE: Now Smell This, I Scent You a Day, The Non-Blonde

BOTTOM LINE:  As with many vintage perfumes, the top notes are first to go, so I didn’t experience any aldehyde and bergamot rush in the opening.  But that doesn’t mean this isn’t a beauty.  Au contraire…it’s very pretty.  Actually, it reminds me greatly of the discontinued MPG George Sand.  No wonder I like it so much!

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre Floral
  • Nose:  Guy Robert
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Varies.  Review based on vintage Eau de Toilette