The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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November Surprise – Vintage Guerlain Chant d’Arômes Eau de Cologne

I think most of us would agree that 2020 has been a challenging year at best.  The year for me thus far seems to have come to a crescendo in October.  October ended with the 3rd Tropical Storm/Hurricane of the season, thankfully none of which caused too much damage besides record setting amounts of rain.  Some friends found their houses leaking with water damage and/or flooding.  Ours managed to maintain.  But at the same time, and during storm 3, we had to move out of our house because we sold it.  Yes, people do buy homes in foreign lands during a pandemic.  And yes, we too were surprised.  Add to the stress of moving, our movers decided at the last minute they could not store our belongings as they said they could.  That’s a challenge because there is not any climate controlled storage here in Merida and the heat combined with antiques is not a good combination.  So, at the last minute we were able to find a rental that worked out perfectly.   But as 2020 keeps giving; two weeks prior to our move on a quiet Sunday afternoon someone decided to run a stop sign and broadside our car.  Thankfully we weren’t hurt, but the car is still on the shop.  So needless to say, this is why I haven’t posted in a month.  It has been stressful to say the least.

But now it’s November, we’re settled into our beautiful rental.  We’re starting the process for building our new house which is to be completed in a year.  We’re happy and healthy and we have a new President-elect which will hopefully bring promise for a better 2021.   So no complaints because we have plenty to be thankful for.  And add just a bit of a cherry on top to it all, I managed to find an unopened vintage bottle of Guerlain Chant d’Arômes.  I love the vintage Guerlain colognes and this is no exception and a great way to slide into November and a promise of a new beginning.

WHAT I SMELL:  Chant d’Arômes opens with soft and lightly sweetened florals which are greeted with bright aldehydes.  There’s a light powder and a slight metallic edge that seems to drift off rather quickly as the soft, light and bright florals take center stage.  The perfume is more of a collection of flowers than of compartmentalized notes.  The florals meld together to make for a spring bouquet of warm and enticing beauty.  Never harsh, nor too strong, the perfume is softness personified.

From Fragrantica:

Guerlain Chant d’Aromes was created by Jean-Paul Guerlain in 1962. This is a fragrance for a woman which wears perfume for the sake of her pleasures only. It is a floral bouquet that talks a language of flowers. This perfume contains natural essences and belongs to the ‘chypre’ olfactory group. The main notes are aldehydes, gardenia, mirabelle, jasmine, cloves, honeysuckle, ylang-ylang, heliotrope, benzoin, oliban and vetiver.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Contentment.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHANT D’ARÔMES:  light, happy, innocent

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHANT D’ARÔMES:  The Black Narcissus, The Non-Blonde, Perfume Shrine

BOTTOM LINE: Chant d’Arômes is a soft and pretty perfume that is infinitely easy to wear.  In reading other reviews of the perfume, it seems like the EDT and extrait have essences of peach, which I don’t find with the EDC version.  Instead, I just get a delightfully calming spread of innocent florals.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Chypre Floral
  • Nose:  Jean-Paul Guerlain
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense:  Varies for vintage


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New Release: Exit the King by Etat Libre d’Orange

WHAT I SMELL:  Exit the King’s opening is bright, light and a little lemony, all of which soon moves to a sparkling pink pepper that quickly melds into a soured, flattened and soapy mix of florals.  From almost the beginning, the perfume has a cottony and gauze like sheath that sits above the muted florals.  Overall, it’s pretty in a inconspicuous and subdued way.  After some more time, a salty edge brings a bit of a bite to the florals floating underneath.  And with the salt, comes a little funk, like a light sweat.   And as I say that, the florals begin to really gain strength while still being muted.  But because of the mix of salt, funk and clean florals, the perfume feels natural, as if it’s just part of your personal DNA.  After some more time, the perfume begins to warm with a lightly sweetened minty patchouli.  Here, the perfume feels like a natural hug with its herbal essence.  As the perfume then slows in development, the herbal becomes more a bit more soapy and a clean woody white musk takes it’s place.  Even without the herbal freshness, the perfume retains its delightful persona.

From Etat Libre d’Orange:


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Bonheur by Bortnikoff Perfumes

WHAT I SMELL:  Bonheur opens with a warm and enveloping sparkling bergamot combined with an oppulent mix of herbs and florals.  It’s coolly warm in the sense that there’s a citrus freshness mixed with a rapturous warmth that surrounds you in the most welcoming and quiet way.  Bonheur slowly develops in a very non-linear way which makes the perfume feel exotic and seductive while at the same very approachable all while it draws you into its mystery.  After some time, the warmth turns more to a spicy herbal as it vibrates and begins to project a wonderful buzzing haze off of the skin.  As soon as this transition occurs, a green fir appears, lightening the perfume and an oakmoss begins to dry and powder the magical elixir.  But still after some more time, the more exotic once again seems to layer itself over the oakmoss with a lovely clove and incense note.  To me, the drydown is pure heaven.

Notes from the Bortnikoff website:

Top notes: Bergamot, Cardamom, Frangipani, Tagetes, and Cempaka
Heart notes: Oakmoss, Vetiver,Violet, Ambergris, Myrrh, Clove and Nutmeg
Base notes: Cedarwood, Labdanum, Vanilla and Tonka bean

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The quiet grace of a an ancient Buddhist temple.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BONHEUR:  majestic, calming, exotic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BONHEUR:  No reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  Perfumer Dmitry Bortnikov has created a masterfully blended perfume that transcends layers of combined notes.  Instead, Bonheur weaves a magical spell that serenely drifts off the skin in the most beautiful way.  Bonheur is a perfume that makes you feel as if you’re on top of the world looking down with all the beauty and grandeur that this world has to offer.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre
  • Nose:  Dmitry Bortnikov
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $180 for 30ml parfum extrait via Luckyscent or the Bortnikoff Perfumes website.