The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Jusbox Perfumes Beat Café

WHAT I SMELL:   Beat Café eases it way on to the skin with a warm, deep, striking coriander which is met with a soured boozy note.  The perfume almost has an undertone of body odor…but not in a repellent way, but in a way that says a shirt has been worn for a few days and has retained a mix of smoke, sweat and booze.  As soon as I write that, a leather note adds another layer to the well worn ensemble.  The leather adds a bit of funk combined with a light hint of danger and a lot of “I just don’t give a damn.”  As the perfume continues to develop, the funky turns more subtle as a sweetened tobacco and light wood adds the right amount of chill.   Here the perfume sits in the perfectly relaxed state of comfort, with a hint of an edge that says although it’s OK to kick back, at any time it might be time to stand up to make a difference in the world.

From the Jusbox website:

The early sixties mark a turning point in history. While war rages around the world, the youth starts to rally against the blind violence and oppression of an establishment it can no longer tolerate. The Beat Generation composed of a group of authors whose literature explores and influences American culture in the post-World War II era, finds its voice in Bob Dylan’s music. His bluesy melodies tinged with vitality, a rich and direct timbre, spread their message of freedom from the USA to Europe. Poet, writer and underground singer, he starts his career with amazing cafe performances. Back then cafes have become mythical meeting points where the younger generation come together to build a counter culture through music, poetry, politic, literature and fashion. A scent of revolution hangs in the air, saturated with tobacco, spirit and leather exuded from the couches where this rebel generation sits imagining a new order till the break of dawn.

Perfume Notes: 

Black Pepper, Coriander Seed, Fine Cognac Accord

Cistus Labdanum Oil, Black Leather, Tobacco

Vetiver, Cedarwood, Benzoin Balm

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A young Bob Dylan.*

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BEAT CAFÉ:  semi-funky, semi-dangerous, semi-hip

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BEAT CAFÉCaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: Beat Café delivers on its’ evocation of the Beat Generation.  It feels like a modern perfume, but has the soul of a bygone era.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Woody
  • Nose:  Domanique Ropian
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Approximately $190 for 78 ml eau de parfum.

*Jusbox is an exclusive range of perfumes whose concept is based on the similarity between perfume and music. Music is the key inspiration for all of their fragrances.  Each of the perfumes is accompanied by a playlist of music associated with the perfume.  In the case of Beat Cafe, much of the playlist contains music by Bob Dylan.  To play the playlist, go to the Beat Café page on the Jusbox website.

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.


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Atelier Des Ors Riviera Lazuli

WHAT I SMELL:  Wow, what an opening…Riveria Lazuli is instant sunshine combined with bright, breezy and juicy lemon citrus.  This amazing opening would make any cloudy day turn sunny in a second.  The bright and energized opening sails right into a lightly herbal woody backdrop.  Here, the sun meets the Riviera coast with cedar lined trees hugging the top of the hill.  I’m not sure how they captured the essence of the coast and put it in the bottle, but Rivera Lazuli is like taking a mini vacation with just a couple of spritzes.  After some more time, the brown sugared guaic wood meets a very light immortelle as the perfume becomes less sunny, but more sophisticated.  It’s as if the perfume moved from day to night.  The combination of the guaic wood and immortelle is very spellbinding.  Each of them can be a bit too much on their own, but they really compliment each other here evening out each of their harsher aspects.  In the end, Riveria Lazuli wraps up the sun-tinged day and quiet evening with a lightly sugared woody ember.  

Riviera Lazuli Notes:

Top notes:  lemon, cypress and bergamot

Middle notes:  sage, cedar and guaiac wood

Base notes: immortelle, balsam fir and incense

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The French Riveria…bien sûr!

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE RIVIERA LAZULI:  bright, sunny, delightful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RIVIERA LAZULICaFleureBon, The Plum Girl, Australian Perfume Junkies

BOTTOM LINE:  Riveria Lazuli is one of three perfumes in the new Riviera Collection, along with Pomelo Riviera and Riviera Drive.  All are perfectly suited for the warm weather and each provide their own characteristics of the sunny Riviera.  All in all, they are positively perfect for a quick vacation when all you can do is reach for a bottle of perfume!

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Aromatic
  • Nose:   Marie Salamagne
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Approximately $185 for 100 ml eau de parfum.


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Hacivat by Nishane

WHAT I SMELL:  At first sniff Hacivat opens with a quiet and slightly chalky bergamot topped with a soft and lightly sweetened pineapple with hints of citrus.  I thought the perfume would go on loud, but instead it’s beautifully muted and contained.  Along with the sweetened notes, there’s an underlying smell of pencil shavings that gives the opening some depth.  The perfume stays in this mild sweetness for some time and that’s perfectly fine with me, because it’s incredibly calm and reassuring in it’s essence.  After some time, the citrus makes way for the woody.  Now it’s time for the perfume to grow as every minute it seems to build with a warm and lightly floral cedar.  What was soft and reassuring in the beginning is now bolder and rather masculine with a patchouli note that seems to dominate.  Here the perfume turns to a slightly sugared, but rather flat wood.  After a great while longer, the perfume begins to project and dry with some powder.  Overall, Hacivat’s development to me was a mixed bag:  the opening was incredible, the middle stage had me worried, but in the end the perfume begins to redeem itself with a softness that’s rather elegant and again, rather reassuring.  But as I say that, out comes a soured note that leaves me a little cold.

From the NIshane website:

Is a tribute to elegance, kindness, competence, and love of art. Inspired by the traditional shadow play character, this eau cypre will help you live in your best dreams by the everlasting sparkles of its joyful structure made of the stimulating notes of pineapple and bergamot backed with the genuine woody notes. Enjoy being loved!

TOP NOTES – bergamot – pineapple – grapefruit

HEART NOTES – jasmine – patchouli – cedarwood

BASE NOTES – clearwood – oakmoss – dry timberwood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Ambivalence.  I love it…I like it…I don’t like it.  Every sniff leaves me with a different feeling.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE HACIVAT:  secure, even-tempered, safe

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT HACIVAT:  BL’eauOG, That Luxurious Feeling

BOTTOM LINE:  As mentioned above, every time I wear this perfume I get a little something different from it, but the one consistent aspect is that I kind of like it, but am not anywhere near loving it.  And that to me that’s rather disappointing.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Citrus Chypre Woody
  • Nose:  Jorge Lee
  • Classification: Unisex, but leans masculine
  • Expense: Approximately $240 for 50 ml perfume extrait.