The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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New Release: Le Joker – Art de Parfum

WHAT I SMELL:   Le Joker takes an immediate dive off the perfumed platform with an explosive charge of pepper and spice which quickly sours into a menacing bite.  Before you can absorb the surprise of the perfume hitting the skin, a rush of leather enters the mix along with a moistened earthy black dirt accord that evens out the biting edge that came on so quickly.  Here, the perfume reminds me of a well worn leather jacket encased in many years and memories of sweat, cigarettes and the sights and smells of the city.  As Le Joker continues to develop, as weird as it sounds, the perfume reminds me of textured flannel sheets that carry a few nights of warmed wear; which I find rather comforting.  In the end, Le Joker’s rough and tumble attributes merge into a salty woody amber accord.  There is no doubt, Le Joker takes the wearer on one wild ride.

From the Art de Parfum website:

Le Joker aims to awaken different emotions in different people; inviting the wearer to be more daring, more evocative, and not afraid to make a statement or challenge the status quo.

This idea has been expertly shaped by Art de Parfum’s French perfumiers in this stand out perfume with its unusual, unexpected pairings, and intriguing ingredients which play with contrasts; light and shadow, moody, mysterious, dangerous.

Le Joker is a fascinating woody fragrance, intertwining fruity spicy notes with powdery notes of make up, smoky cigarette facets and salty ambergris. 

The overall character of the scent plays with contradictions yet creates a magnificent whole. Playful yet dark, the use of sparkling Timur pepper, which is still rare in perfumery, shines in this creation revealing spicy and tropical accents. The Timur offers a sparkling lemony effect on the top with nuances of passion fruit.

Top Notes: Pink Pepper, Timur Pepper, Elemi

Heart Notes: Star Anise, Nutmeg

Base Notes: Atlas Cedarwood, Cypriol, Patchouli

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The infamous ‘Joker” fits the perfume’s narrative to a T.  However, to me, the perfume tells the story of the New York City subway of the 1970s:  dirty and dangerous while at the same time exciting and exhilarating.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE LE JOKER:  complicated, menacing, intriguing

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LE JOKERThe Plum Girl, I Scent you a Day

BOTTOM LINE:  Le Joker is not a perfume that is meant to be worn at the office.  It is however, a perfume that evokes the wildly chaotic planet we currently live in and is perfect for wearing when you just want to take on the world.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Spicy
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $150 for 50 ml parfum extrait

*Sample provided by Art de Parfum.  Opinion my own.


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Sarah Baker Perfumes – Lace

WHAT I SMELL:   Lace opens head on with a sweet and candied ozone and a swirl of notes that feel as if they are wrapped up in cotton candy fluff.  In seconds, the perfume is a mix of coconut orange cream and light buttered cookie.  But as soon as I say that, the perfume turns to an uplifting cedar.  I know this all sounds strange with the written word, but trust me this swirling mix really works in the loveliest and liveliest way.  As the perfume continues to develop, the creaminess turns from the coconut to the vanilla.   Here, Lace is oh so smooth and slightly custard like.  But soon enough, the perfume decides to move towards the sweet and what was once more creamy is now sprinkled with sugar.  Still delicious, I have to admit I love that creamy custard phase.  After quite some time, the gourmand cookie moves to the floral with a beautiful jasmine coming to the forefront.  Lace is a fun and delightful ride that settles into a frisky floral vixen.

From the Sarah Baker Perfumes website:

Not the lace of the boudoir. Here regal elegance is ideally suited to occasions that call for discretion and restraint. Butter wouldn’t melt on the buttoned-up top layer. But underneath a devil-may-care spontaneity and luxuriant desire for pleasure is revealed.

Notes: Musk, Coconut, Hedione, Ambroxan, Vanilla, Calone, Jasmine, Cedar 

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Jasmine infused vanilla cream cookies.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE LACE:  delightful, scrumptious, temptress

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LACEMegan in Sainte Maxime

BOTTOM LINE:  Lace was a great introduction to Sarah Baker Perfumes.  It’s fun and easy to wear and one of those perfumes that defies being in a bad mood when wearing it.  Who doesn’t love a fun perfume?

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Sarah McCartney
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $140 for 50 ml eau de parfum

 


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Mendittorosa Rituale

WHAT I SMELL:   Rituale’s opening is warm and slightly smoky and quickly met with a spicy buzzing bergamot.  A warmed lavender soon arrives layered on top of a light brown sugar note.  The perfume is ardently inviting and seems to beckon you into a spell.  The beguiling opening moves to the more serious where deep and mysterious florals slowly pulsate at a level that hugs the skin.  Now that the spell has been cast, the perfume feels as if it has melded not just to the skin, but down to your soul.  As the perfume continues to quietly develop, a warm and rich amber is coated with a honeyed beeswax along with the most subdued, yet slightly sweet patchouli.  Rituale is not a perfume that will make a larger than life statement for the wearer, instead, it’s a quiet, subtle and hypnotic perfume that will draws others to you with it’s magic.

From the Mendittorosa website:

Rituals from ancient cultures; myths, symbols and religions in one perfume. Rituale is illuminated by a nectarous narcissus, a golden distillation of time like an everlasting sunrise. Blessing and prayer, a soothing balsam for skin, Rituale is your personal temple. Perfumes normally come and go with the wind but Rituale likes to linger and bless your day, creating a ritual especially for you.

Head Notes: Italian Bergamot, Mandarin Aldehyde, Lavender.
Heart Notes: Jasmin, Narcissus, Rose, Red Fruits (Blackcurrant, Raspberry, Pomegranate).
Base Notes: Patchouli, Sandwalwood, Beeswax, Amber Woods, White Musk, Hyraceum (Golden Stone).

Ingrid Bergman. Alfred Hitchcock Spellbound, 1945.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Spellbound.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE RITUALE:  haunting, personal, contemplative

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RITUALEThe Silver Fox, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  I have been waiting to wear this beauty for some time as I knew it would not work well in the heat of Mexico.  Now that the weather has finally cooled, I was able to experience this quiet, yet provocative perfume.  It’s true, good things come to those who wait.  Oh, and that bottle!

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose:  Amelie Bourgeois
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $230 for 100 ml parfum extrait

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.