The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Guerlain Nuit d’Amour

WHAT I SMELL:   Nuit d’Amour opens softly with lightly sweetened lychee fruitiness that swiftly blends with a touch of pink pepper and a softened rose that seems to be puffed with air floating underneath.   The perfume is rather dreamy and is surrounded in a cloudy haze that hovers over the perfumed skin.  Soon enough, a soft violet blends itself in the dreamy concoction.  But here the violet is less innocent, but more knowing and rather mature.  After a short time, a sandalwood begins to form as the base.  Never heavy, it makes the perfect resting place for the lightly warmed florals.  In the end, the perfume quiets even more, leaving you in a powdery haze of light florals wrapped in musky gauze.

From the Guerlain website:

Jean-Paul Guerlain created Nuit d’Amour as a tribute to Gustav Klimt and one of his works of art: “Lady with Hat and Feather Boa.” This floral, powdery and woody fragrance recalls the stirring emotion that might strike when you encounter an unknown woman with indefinable charm.

Powdery and Woody Floral.
Sweet, moving, feminine.
Top notes: lychee, pink pepper.
Heart notes: May rose, violet.
Base notes: sandalwood, white musks, iris.

Lady With Hat and Feather Boa – Gustav Klimt (1909)

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   I can’t argue with Jean-Paul Guerlain’s inspiration of Gustav Klimt’s “Lady with Hat and Feather Boa.”

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE NUIT D’AMOUR:  reserved, refined, soft

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NUIT D’AMOUR:  Bois de Jasmin, Australian Perfume Junkies

BOTTOM LINE:  I so much want to love this perfume.  It’s soft, it’s pretty, but there’s just not enough of it.  It’s much too restrained to command any affection from me.  That said, it’s really nice…just really nice and that’s a shame.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Floral
  • Nose:  Jean Paul Guerlain
  • Classification:  Feminine
  • Expense:  125 ml Eau de Parfum.  Exclusively at Guerlain Boutiques as part of the Les Parisiennes collection.

 

 


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Grossmith Diamond Jubilee Bouquet

WHAT I SMELL:  Diamond Jubilee Bouquet opens with a sweet and chalky zesty citrus along with a SweeTART candy smell.  But that sweetened sensation begins to disappear quickly on it’s way to open up for a warm and rapturous bouquet of flowers highlighted with a slightly metallic rose.  After a few minutes, a tender and powdery violet pops out of the bouquet to give a perception of innocence.  And soon thereafter, the bouquet begins to really bloom with a mix of warmth and coolness making the perfume a controlled beauty; majestic and pretty without being ostentatious or off-putting.  After some more time, a light spice brings in a more serious tone while continuing with it’s overall restraint.  In the end, Diamond Jubilee Bouquet quietly powders with the lightest of sweetness.  It’s very secure in its quiet and muted beauty.

From the Grossmith website:

Grossmith’s tribute to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II is a floral tapestry for the twenty-first century.

Top Notes:  Orange, Lemon, Lily of the Valley, Narcissus

Heart Notes:  Rose, Iris, Jasmine, Violet, Vetiver, Carnation

Base Notes:  Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Hawthorn, Amber, Musk

Queen Elizabeth II

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A fitting tribute to Queen Elizabeth II.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE DIAMOND JUBILEE BOUQUET:  pretty, controlled, contained

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DIAMOND JUBILEE BOUQUET:  Undina’s Looking Glass

BOTTOM LINE:  I really want to love this perfume.   Instead, I just really, really like it.  It’s pretty, but the controlled nature and rather light projection makes it feel best suited to wear with a plain white blouse.  To wear with anything else the perfume would need to be amped up just a tad bit more.  I do think it would make for a perfect bedtime scent though.  It’s powdery floral sweetness would assist in making some wonderfully beautiful dreams.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose:  Trevor Nicholl
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense:  Approximately $310 for 50 ml eau de parfum.  Also available in 100 ml.  Limited edition.


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L’Adoné Parfums ELENYA gold

WHAT I SMELL:  ELENYA gold opens with a soft, smooth, rich and opulent bergamot combined with a subdued but very creamy black orchid.  A perfectly subtle cardamom joins the bergamot and black orchid helping to even out the citrus and floral to make a beautifully flattened, but rounded presence.  The perfume at this time is weighty without being heavy and is exotic in a very controlled manner.  In addition, there are no sharp edges as the perfume takes it time in developing which makes the perfume feel that more substantive.  After some time, the black orchid peeks his head out again along with the most creamy of unsweetened coconut.  After some more time, a light sandalwood begins to buzz underneath the creaminess.  A little sour, but just perfectly so, the sandalwood brings the right amount of depth to the perfume along with a woody vetiver.  For me, ELENYA gold is hard to pin down because its overall mix of notes makes for a very smooth, almost custard-like perfume…it’s easy, yet grand.

From the L’Adoné website:

Symbolically, gold represents only the best. This precious metal has been the chosen metal of gods and kings since early times.The fragrance ELENYA gold signifying shining light, delivers light, the warmth of the sun, and Beauty. ELENYA gold is an oriental floral composition that opens with notes of Black Orchid and Sicilian Bergamot. White Lemon Blossoms and a drop of Cardamon accompany this combination accented by notes of Sandalwood and Coconut, embedded in precious Iris Blossom, rounded and deepened by Vetiver.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Gold leaf.  When applied to the skin, the most razor thin coating of luxury is now yours to wear.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ELENYA GOLD: smooth, creamy, easy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ELENYA GOLD:  No reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  ELENYA gold shimmers in just the right way.  It’s a perfume that shines without being ostentatious or over the top.  Instead, it’s subdued luxury that’s perfect for everyday wearing.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Nose:  Andreas Wilhelm
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  Approximately $280 for 50 ml parfum extrait.