The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Oriza L. Legrand Gentry Jockey Club

WHAT I SMELL:   Gentry Jockey Club goes on the skin with a warm and comforting bergamot with soft touches of iris and rose. It buzzes with vibrancy, yet at the same time retains a sense calm and a sense of security.  A light leather soon enters, but like the florals, it too remains soft and inviting.  To warm the perfume even more, an ambered hue of sandalwood is injected which begins to dry out the opening softness of the perfume.   I’m not sure what is responsible for the next movement, but a light earthy element is brought in.  It’s a combination that feels like earthy and mossy soil which has been dried in the sun.  A birch note helps to give it a slightly burnt edge as if in the distance you can smell the remains of recent fire.  This is where the perfume settles in for bulk of its wear, it radiates and pulses as continues to grow with some intensity resting in a dry burnt wood and hay consistency.

Feast day at the racecourse: ribbons and hats in the wind, the elegant look at the fiery horse, the one that will lead to victory …
The air perfumes the leather of the horses treading the hot sand and the smell of blond tobacco.
Jockey Club, the perfume of victory …
 
Top notes:  Italian bergamot – Ylang of the Comoros – Saffron
Heart notes:  Iris Pallida – Bulgarian rose – Leather notes – Patchouli – Birch essence
Background notes:  Real Sandalwood from India – Tonka Bean – Ambrette – Ambergris – Vetiver Haiti

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: 
Gentry Jockey Club smells less like a race track and more like what I envision a medieval farm to small like…dirt, hay and scorched earth.


THREE WORD
S THAT DESCRIBE GENTRY JOCKEY CLUB:  rustic, earthy, dried

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GENTRY JOCKEY CLUB:  None found.

BOTTOM LINE:   Gentry Jockey Club remains true to the roots of the Oriza L. Legrand brand.  It has a nostalgic sensibility, but feels modern at the same time.  If you like the smokiness of birch tar you’ll probably like this.  To me however, after some time, the perfume just gets too smoky on me.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  120 Euros for 100 ml Eau de Parfum


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Byredo Pulp

WHAT I SMELL:   Pulp’s opening is a pleasant one with a sparkling fresh bergamot.  That fresh sparkle is quickly met with a warmed blackcurrent which is ripe and juicy and pretty and lush without being overly aggressive.  Soon, the other fruits begin to come in to meet the blackcurrent with the fig and red apple seemingly taking turns at coming to the forefront.  Eventually, they blend together to make a stronger alliance as the perfume begins to expand and project.  In short time, the tiare and peach flower begin to take over and the perfume increases in volume.  There’s an artificiality about the perfume that begins to mimic the characteristics of the notes.   Eventually, the perfume settles in as a fruity floral with nondescript wood sitting underneath.  Pulp is big, but not too big; fresh, but not too fresh; fruity without being too fruity….you get my drift.

From the Byredo website:

In Pulp, a compilation of exotic and Swedish influences create an international fruit basket.  A dramatic composition focused on the idea of ripe, sweet, shapeless mass of fruit, an unruly and intense savor.

Notes:  

Top – bergamot, blackcurrent, cardamom

Heart – fig, red apple, tiare

Base – cedarwood, peach flower, praline

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Pulp isn’t soapy, but it does remind me of those tenacious shampoos from the 1970s where 8 hours after you washed your hair it still smelled as if it was just washed.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PULP: abundant, artificially fresh, vibrant

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PULP:  Musings of a Muse, Colognoisseur, AustralianPerfumeJunkies

BOTTOM LINE:   Pulp is pleasant enough in a very non-offensive way.  Its artificial freshness makes for a pretty easy wear, but to me, it does grow rather tiresome as it eventually (after a couple of hours) turns to a cottony musk.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Fruity
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  Approx $110 for 50 ml eau de parfum

Footnote:  After completing my writing of this post in its entirety, I read what I wrote and I found that the review seemed to have been “phoned in”.  So what does that mean?  Well, the post doesn’t flow all to well and it seems to be lacking any real effort or oomph.  I thought about cleaning the post up and doing some edits, but then decided…no.  Pulp, although being nice enough of a perfume, it too feels “phoned in”…so there you go.


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Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d’Iris

Image result for bois d'irisWHAT I SMELL:  Bois d’Iris is oh so inviting when it first goes on the skin.  It’s like soft iris infused cashmere that’s lightly sweetened and tinged with sun.  The perfume feels like a late spring morning where the dew of the evening before has just evaporated off the flowers and greenery of a beautiful garden.  The iris is very contained, but nicely warmed with the lightest amber that helps to give the perfume a golden hue of radiance.  After some time, the iris retreats to make way for a buzzing labdanum.  Still golden, the perfume moves from floral to almost entirely wood.  Eventually, the perfume moves to the powdery and it becomes slightly sweeter , but the sweetness is kept contained by a dried woody vetiver.  Overall, a very easy wear.

To smell wood, to see its scent from a totally different angle, forget the idea of the forest, leaves and earth , and picture it on a beach, floating in waves, and washing up on the sand.  Driftwood warmed by the sun.  I paired it with Ambergris and Labdanaum to underscore the solar and sensual dimension of this wood.  Iris and Vetiver bring out the texture and elegance of this fragrance.

– Emilie Coppermann

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Beach bonnet.  It’s a lightly sweet floral wood tinged with the sun, with a salty woodiness that is pretty, yet elegant and refined.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BOIS d’IRIS: clean, tidy, proper

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BOIS d’IRIS:  Now Smell This, The Non-Blonde, Perfume-Smellin’ Things

BOTTOM LINE:   Bois d’Iris is sweet, pretty, rather demure, and fun in a 1950’s kind of way.  A perfect perfume for wearing at the office, or a fun day out on the town.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody
  • Nose: Emilie Coppermann
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $125 for 1.5 oz eau de parfum