The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


8 Comments

Black Magic by Sebastiane Parfumes

WHAT I SMELL:  Black Magic casts a spell with an initial big blast of tonka that is sweetened with a green blackberry and jammy rose.  One spritz is all that is needed as Black Magic has some incredible projection. Very quickly, the perfume warms with the addition of a light amber.  The perfume is a buzz with a mix of fruity florals that when combined smell a bit like grape jelly.  At this point, the perfume is all fruit…with grape and blackberry front and center and in combination are juicy without being too thick.  After some time, a woody note and light leather start to appear which pulls back the overt sweetness.  But as soon as I mentioned this, the fruit comes back full force.  Here the perfume remains for a long time…full, rich and full of juice.  Finally, in the end, the perfume turns to more of a sweetened patchouli, topped with a grassy vetiver.  Spell cast.

From the Sebastiane website:

Top notes are tonka bean, vanilla and amber; middle notes are jasmine, rose, blackberry and frangipani; base notes are patchouli, leather, grass and vetiver.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A grape cocktail.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BLACK MAGIC:  big, bountiful, juicy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BLACK MAGIC:  None to be found except for the comments on Fragrantica.

BOTTOM LINE:  Black Magic is full on fruit, make no bones about it.  As such, don’t expect a perfume that’s quiet and demure…it’s big, fun and not shy in the least.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental
  • Nose: Robert Elder
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $85 for 60 ml eau de parfum available from the Sebastiane website and other retailers.


5 Comments

New Release: Silphium by Stora Skuggan

WHAT I SMELL:  Silphium goes on the skin incredibly herbal, medicinal, warm and mentholated.  It really vibrates with a vaporous sheen and the perfume is incredibly reassuring without being soft and cuddly.  Instead, since there is a medicinal edge it feels more like an elixir of health.  As the perfume begins to settle, the herbal turns to an energized spice that is somehow flat, yet full of movement.  Still rather medicinal, the perfume throws out an aura of energy which now begins to lighten with a rounded moisture fused in ginger and a slight citrus.  After some time, the perfume removes the majority of the medicinal tone and lightens to a fuzzy and lightly powdered wood that albeit full of projection, feels somewhat ethereal and wispy brought on by the breath of an opaque incense.  In the end, the perfume softens considerably and becomes a comfort scent…in the sense that the therapeutic aspects of the fragrance make you feel like you don’t only smell good, but the perfume is good for you.

From the Stora Skuggan website:

Silphium (probably of the genus Ferula) was a plant that grew in the area of Cyrene, present day Libya, and was widely renowned as a spice, medicinal herb and perfume ingredient throughout the empires of the classical antiquity. It was praised by Greek philosophers and writers, as well as Roman emperors and cookbook authors.

There were many attempts to cultivate Silphium, but they inevitably failed. It would only grow wild in a limited area of the north African coast. This in combination with its qualities as seasoning and medicine made Silphium the most valuable spice in the world, outshining both saffron and cinnamon. The demand for Silphium eventually became so overwhelming that it was harvested to extinction, and the taste and smell of the once greatest spice in the world was lost in time.

Our rendition of this historical plant is created by researching surviving assumed relatives of Silphium, using aromachemicals (the molecular building blocks of scents) to create an accord that we feel represents what descriptions remains. This is set against a background of ancient incense, woods and leather.

Silphium features top notes of Silphium accord and Cistus. The heart notes are Cinnamon, Black Pepper, Tobacco, Ginger, Geranium and Clove. Base notes are Frankincense, Myrrh, Cedarwood and Leather.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Medicinal cotton.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SILPHIUM: herbal, medicinal, therapeutic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SILPHIUM:  None found.

BOTTOM LINE:  This new release from the Stockholm Sweden based Stora Skuggan is interesting and different and I love the fact that they are creating a perfume through the re-creation of an extinct and historical plant as a central theme.  And for perfume lovers who also gravitate towards incredible bottles…Silphium does the trick.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Spicy
  • Nose: Olle Hemmendorff and Tomas Hempel
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $140 for 30 ml eau de parfum

Sample provided by Twisted Lily Fragrange Boutique and Apothecary.  Opinion my own.


14 Comments

Rose Emois by Molinard

molinardroseemoisWHAT I SMELL:  Rose Emois unfolds soft and sweet as baby’s breath with a slightly sugared bergamot and mint that is quickly met with a milky almond highlighted with the lightest of saffron.  A serene floral bouquet warmed by a softened sandalwood and amber make this incredibly dreamy.  The perfume is light and transparent but at the same it has a pretty powerful projection.  After a few minutes, the rose begins to break out of the dreamlike haze of warmth.  The rose is subdued and deep and thorny without being heavy.  The sandalwood and amber anchor the perfume making the perfume feel more ambered than rose.  After some more time, an oudish note is added making the perfume feel more exotic.  As the perfume continues to develop, the oud note becomes more prominent and the perfume becomes more powdery, but there is a slight bite (no doubt from the oud note) that is a bit discordant.  I do wish the perfume would return to the beginning, but instead, it remains in this oudish rose colored powdered haze.  That’s not a bad thing, it’s just that the opening and middle phase was just so breathtakingly beautiful.

From Molinard:

Caressing scents in tender intuitions, sharing confidence for confidence … this harmonious fragrance cultivates its chosen affinities.  Carved from a rose, its natural whimsicality carries it irresistibly to floral allegories … and abandons itself secretly to the enveloping waves where man and woman meet, and make no more than one …

Top notes are bergamot, mint and almond; middle notes are jasmine, rose, saffron and ylang-ylang; base notes are musk, sandalwood, amber and ylang-ylang.

asian-tapestriesWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A vibrant Indian tapestry full of color and infused with the exotic smells of the market.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ROSE EMOIS:  dreamy, royal, serious

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ROSE EMOIS: No reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE: Rose Emois is part of Molinard’s La Collection Privee. Besides the classic Habanita, you don’t hear much about Molinard.  Their perfumes, albeit somewhat hard to find, are pretty and easy to wear.  This is no exception.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Approximately $180 for 100 ml eau de parfum.