The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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New Release: Vanille Rêve by Shalini

Shalini Vanilla ReveWHAT I SMELL:   Vanille Rêve approaches the wearer with a warm deep tobacco laden vanilla that’s not sweet, but which is grounded in a sensuous mix of spices of nutmeg, cinnamon and anise.  From the very beginning, Vanille Rêve is very serious and deeply rapturous.  As the perfume develops, the mix of spice and vanilla begin to dry, leaving the wearer to feel is if they are on a journeyed path through the markets of Morocco prior to starting off on an adventure heading to the South Seas where its secret wisdom will be unlocked.  After some time, the deep and dark begins to slowly lift and the perfume moves toward the more gourmand.  Here the perfume radiates the most comforting of baked good delights.  You can almost envision the spiced, caramelized and frosted creations emerging from the oven as they entice you as they’re put out on display.  Continuing on, Vanille Rêve begins to reveal its quieter side with the addition of creamy white florals.  Here the perfume begins to soften and bloom with the tiare flower lilting lightly on top of the vanilla.  And this is where the perfume makes its final journey’s end amidst the intoxicating and exotic islands of the South Pacific.

From Shalini Parfum:

Vanille Rêve parfum captures the alluring sweetness of desire and ineffable dreams without limits. The parfum is an embracing composition of warm sensual Vanilla Absolut, aromatic Anise, voluptuous Tuberose, Jasmin and the Tahitian Gardenia – Tiare blossoms.

WelcometotheSouthSeasWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  An exotic journey to the South Seas.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE VANILLE RÊVE:  mysterious, gourmand, exquisite

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT VANILLE RÊVE:  Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  Vanille Rêve is a gourmand lover’s dream where the vanilla is the star at the center.  Never too sweet, the perfume is beautifully serious in the most wonderful of ways.  Once again, Shalini and Maurice Roucel have added another beauty to the exceptional Shalini collection of perfumes.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Gourmand
  • Nose:  Maurice Roucel
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Cubique glass bottle with the glass stopper $500 for 50 ml, Cubique glass bottle with black bulb atomizer $500 for 50 ml,  Small spray bottle $150 for 7.5 ml.  Byzantine glass flacon $1,100 for 100 ml.  White Lacquer and Gold Plated Travel Spray, $415 for 12.5 ml.  All parfum extrait.


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Bvlgari Garanat

GaranatWHAT I SMELL:   Garanat opens with a hint of spiced cinnamon that very quickly turns to the rose.  The perfume is soft and creamy, yet at the same time it grabs the wearer because it demands attention as it grows in volume and its middle eastern gravitas.  There’s not a lot at play with Garanat, the perfume is a straight shot of incense infused deeply intoxicating beefish oriental rose.  As such, it doesn’t change much except for the incense becoming a bit more pronounced along with a woody timbre.  But from the beginning to the end, Garanat is masculine and incredibly sexy all while being a perfect gentleman.  Who knew rose and incense could be so incredible?  It’s a simple as that.

From the Bvlgari website:

Inspired by the deep Red Garnet from Bosphorus, the fragrance conveys masculine strength and forerightness. The crimson gemstone shines in the darkness, bringing its wearer the impassioned courage and vision of Suleyman the Magnificent, the most seducing Sultan of the Ottoman Empire.

A dense, spellbinding swirl of an ardent and masculine rose entwined with noble smoked incense for a mesmerizing fragrance of supreme virile force.

Notes: Cinnamon Essence, Rose Absolute, Smoked Incense

1549547182-yasser (1)WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Middle Eastern sexiness; Egyptian actor Yasser Galal.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE GARANATbold, manly, refined

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GARANAT:  No reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  Garanat is not a perfume full of twists and turns.  Once it goes on, you get rose and incense and that’s where it stays for hours.  Garanat is a simply elegant, long lasting masculine beauty.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental
  • Nose: Jacques Cavallier
  • Classification: Leans masculine
  • Expense: $332 for 100 ml eau de parfum.


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Vintage Ma Griffe by Carven

WHAT I SMELL:  Ma Griffe opens with bright aldehydes followed by a mix of florals that turn surprisingly green.   There’s an undercurrent of rapturous warmth that sits below the florals that makes the perfume heady and full-bodied in a rather provocative manner.  Ma Griffe is not shy in the least and as it goes on she tells you exactly who she is right from the beginning.  As the perfume continues to develop, there’s a note or combination of notes that reminds me of slightly worn silk undergarments.  It’s a mix of perfume, powder and just a hint of light sweat gained from normal daily activity.  As such, this makes Ma Griffe a veritible seductress.  As the perfume continues to morph, the florals begin to deepen with tonka bean taking root along side a drying oak moss.  Here, Ma Griffe is fully in charge and makes it known that she is all woman and doesn’t mind if you call her a dame.

Top notes: Aldehydes, clary sage, galbanum, bergamot
Heart notes: Gardenia, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose
Base notes: Cinnamon, tonka bean, vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The unapologetic user of men; Barbara Stanwyck in the pre-code classic movie “Babyface.”

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MA GRIFFEbold, seductive, empowered

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MA GRIFFE:  Yesterday’s Perfume, Smelly Blog, Perfume Shrine

BOTTOM LINE:  I acquired the bottle pictured above years ago from a woman who was cleaning out her aunt’s estate.  I believe it’s from the 1970’s or ’80s and is the EDT “mis-s-s-ster” version.  The “mister” no longer works so it comes out of the bottle dribbling from under the sprayer.  I imagine that the mister would provide a bit of a softer experience, but I can’t say for sure.  For me, Ma Griffe is interestingly bold and beautiful, but I find that it’s not something I gravitate to or wear very often.  I think’s it’s because I like my vintage perfumes to have a bit of a soft side and Ma Griffe is anything but soft from start to finish.  Still, it’s a pretty darn amazing perfume.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre Floral
  • Classification:  Feminine
  • Expense:  Prices for vintage vary considerably on concentration, etc.