The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Grossmith Amelia

WHAT I SMELL:  Amelia sweeps quietly in the room as not to make a noticeable announcement of her arrival with a soft, warm muted osmanthus and the quietest neroli.  Soon, the softest of florals enter with rose as the lead, along with just a bit of soap, still ever so faintly but with a warm heart.  There’s something wonderfully radiating about the perfume, but in the most serene of manner.  And Amelia doesn’t develop as much as it blends.  It moves with quiet steps that make the notes indistinguishable as they’re so wonderfully fused together in veil of floral beauty.  Amelia is a comfort scent that doesn’t feel as if it needs to please anyone, but with it brings a warm character of incredible grace and a gentle demeanor.

From the Grossmith website:

This feminine scent was created in honour of Amelia Brooke, Simon’s great grandmother, who was the key to his discovery of the lost perfume house. Amelia’s father was the founder, John Grossmith.

Amelia is a soft and elegant chypre which opens with enticing notes of neroli and osmanthus, and develops into a smooth floral heart of rose, peony and jasmine, supported by warm amber. Patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver and cashmere musks form the long-lasting and rounded base.

Top notes – neroli, osmanthus; Heart notes – rose, jasmine, peony, amber; Base notes – patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, cashmere musks

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Little Women’s Marmee – a beautiful heart.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE AMELIA:  soft, quiet, understated

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AMELIA:  CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Amelia is a hard perfume to describe because it’s blended so seamlessly and is so incredibly muted.  But as a soft floral that is so quiet and beautiful it surprisingly leaves a long lasting impression as it stays on the skin for a long time with a gentle whisper.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Chypre Floral
  • Nose:  Trevor Nicholl
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense:  Approximately $310 for 50 ml eau de parfum.  Also available in 100 ml.


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Chanel PARIS-RIVIERA

WHAT I SMELL:  PARIS-RIVIERA opens with a soft creamy petitgrain that is quickly met with a sweet, vibrant and juicy neroli.  It’s fresh, energetic and a bit bubble-gummish as it feels a bit chewy.  But overall it’s incredibly sunny.  A sandalwood makes it way in to reveal a bit of pencil shaving along with the lightest of jasmine, which helps it migrate away from the orange a bit.  After a short time, a gauze of musk layers over the composition and it feels as if the perfume is contained in a muslin wrap designed to keep the flies off of the fruit that sits within a basket.  As the perfume continues to develop, it begins to sweeten which is welcomed as it makes the perfume just that more joyous.  And in a bit, a warmed woody base adds just the perfect resting place for this floral dream.   PARIS-RIVIERA is a delightfully pretty perfume.

From the Chanel website:

1928. Gabrielle Chanel builds her villa, La Pausa, on the Côte d’Azur, a few years after opening a new boutique in Cannes. With breathtaking landscapes, the French Riviera becomes the hot spot for society. The sweetness and excitement of this life is captured by the floral and solar scent of PARIS-RIVIERA.

A burst of zesty Sicilian orange interlaced with petitgrain reveals soft, subtle notes of jasmine and neroli. Sandalwood and musk add a touch of warmth for a scent as radiant as the Mediterranean sun.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A summer picnic under the orange trees.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PARIS-RIVIERA:  fresh, dreamy, uncomplicated

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PARIS-RIVIERA:  My Woman Stuff, Fragroom.com

BOTTOM LINE:  Chanel does fresh better than anyone else.  This perfume is no exception.  PARIS-RIVIERA is the perfect summer scent.  No, actually it’s the perfect scent to wear whenever you need a mood booster no matter the time of year and I love it!

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral Fruity
  • Nose:  Olivier Polge
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: Starting at $90 for 1.7 oz. eau de toilette


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Vintage Narcisse Blanc by Caron

WHAT I SMELL:  Narcisse Blanc opens with a peppery warm and indolic orange blossom and neroli.  It’s thick, waxy and completely intoxicating.  Quickly, a petitgrain note emerges to bring the floating blossoms towards the earth with a greenish touch of grass.  There’s nothing easy or breezy about this perfume.  Instead, it’s beauty is in the realm of the mature.  Big and round as more florals come in punctuated with the rose, Narcisse Blanc is less mysterious than it’s counterpart, Narcisse Noir, but to me, much more accessible.  However, that’s not to say that it doesn’t hold it’s wearer in some contempt, as there is a bit of haughtiness and aloofness about it without it being cold in nature.  As the perfume continues to expand and radiate, the warmth of the base begins to move towards the still waxy blossoms.  Vetiver adds just a bit of a brownish grass and a sandalwood brings a little bit of sour.  Narcisse Blanc never got the love that Narcisse Noir did.  Too bad, because it’s every bit as beautiful.

Top notes are Orange Blossom, Neroli, Orange and Petitgrain; middle notes are Jasmine, tincture of rose and Lime; base notes are iris, Musk, Sandalwood, vetyver and Amber.

The Dowager Queen Lovisa Ulrika of Sweden.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A dowager.  A lady of means who is completely in charge.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE NARCISSE BLANC: bold, in-control, substantial

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NARCISSE BLANC:  Now Smell This, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE:  Narcisse Blanc is beautiful, no question about it.  But it’s not young, nor carefree, but instead is grand floral that means serious business.  Caron, which for some reason seems to be largely hidden (at least in the US), has a new reissue of Narcisse Blanc, but I have no idea how it compares to this vintage beauty.  I do have the feeling however that it has been reformulated to be a bit lighter and brighter.  But as for this vintage version that came from those long gone fabulous urns in the now closed NYC boutique; it’s a grand old perfume that isn’t meant for every day wear, but seems to be made for those special occasions when you want to feel rather royal.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Nose:   Ernest Daltroff
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: Review based on the vintage parfum extrait version.  You can find the latest version of Narcisse Blanc at the Caron website.