The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Bois 1920 Sushi Imperiale

WHAT I SMELL:  Sushi Imperiale’s opening is decidedly not sushi like as it opens with a warm crunchy bergamot and sugared orange.  The perfume is sweet, but not sugary sweet; instead its sweetened naturally as if it’s tinged with brown sugar.  Soon enough, the natural sweetness begins to give way for a more flattened floral spice.  The perfume is slightly gourmand, but that quickly moves away and the perfume begins to unleash a warm, shimmering radiance and a lovely warmed sandalwood comes to the forefront.  At this point, Sushi Imperiale becomes enveloping and rapturous…the base notes are a light blanket of comfort that don’t weigh down the perfume, but instead add just the right amount of security.  After this, Sushi Imperiale doesn’t transform much, except when it finally settles in with light and soft patchouli that feels tufted with light cotton.  In other words, it’s comforting and reassuring.

From Bois 1920:

An intense beginning where the citrus notes blend harmoniously for an eau de toilette that speaks of love.  The heart releases its spicy personality:  the vibrant and exotic luminosity of Pepper, Nutmeg and Cinnamon.  The fragrance develops into a brilliant and almost nonchalant wisp of woods and Vanilla of Madagascar.

Top notes are bergamot, mandarin orange and lemon; middle notes are pepper, nutmeg, jasmine, rose, star anise and cinnamon; base notes are sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, tonka bean and madagascar vanilla.

Italian Crown Prince Umberto II

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  To me this is less “sushi” imperial, but it is indeed more italian imperial, meaning that the perfume is fit for a prince.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SUSHI IMPERIALE:  shimmering, comforting, contented

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SUSHI IMPERIALE: AustralianPerfumeJunkies, EauMG, Kafkaesque

BOTTOM LINE: Sushi Imperiale is a wonderfully wearable and elegant perfume that has surprising projection and longevity and is rather beefy for an eau de toilette.  This is a perfume that is perfectly elegant without being snobbish.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Spicy
  • Nose: Enzo Galardi
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Approximately $140 for 50 ml EdT


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New Release: silencethesea by strangelove nyc

silencethesea

WHAT I SMELL:  silencethesea opens salty and green, like seaweed hitting the shore of the beach; while at the same time it feels windswept and incredibly joyous.  The perfume begins to warm as if the sun begins to shine in the late morning as the day comes to life.  A sun-kissed and earthy floral emerges as if sitting right off the beach in the warmed protected area of the dune.  The perfume becomes somewhat heady with the beefy florals that are silken and smooth.  But before silencethesea gets too beefy, the perfume retreats and deepens with a light oud emitting from beneath the florals.  This gives the perfume a bit of mystery and exoticness.  After quite some time, the perfume settles into a very comfortable lightly sweetened oud with hints of candied white truffle and a light leather that hugs the skin that leaves you with your own personal secret story.

From strangelove nyc:

The fragrance is a complex blend based on the musky mysterious allure of pure ambergris, the rich warmth of rare oudh, a provocative whiff of white truffle, and a splash of salty jasmine deepened with earthy tuberose.

In the sand dunesWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Warmed flowers among the sand dunes.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SILENCETHESEA:  contemplative, warmed, reassuring

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SILENCETHESEA:  Megan in Saint Maxime

BOTTOM LINE:  silencethesea, one of three perfumes developed by Elizabeth Gaynes in partnership with supermodel Helena Christensen and perfumer Christophe Laudamiel, is my favorite in the line, although all three perfumes are distinct, incredibly unique and sublimely intimate.  With silencethesea, a small dab of the perfume oil will transport you to your own personal private beach retreat.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Aromatic Aquatic
  • Nose: Christophe Laudamiel
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $55 for 1.25 ml perfume oil or $475 for 50ml eau de parfum (review based on the perfume oil).  Available at Bergdorf Goodman or via the strangelove nyc website.

Sample provided by strangelove nyc.  Opinion my own.


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New Release: Sandor 70’s by Carner Barcelona

carnersandos70sWHAT I SMELL:  Sandor 70’s completes a kick-start with a quick blast of bergamot that soon melds into a wonderfully warm floral suede.  The florals then move to the more herbal with a clary sage note that is front and center.  The perfume is smooth and incredibly engaging.  Neither feminine nor masculine, the perfume defies a label.  As the perfume continues to develop, it really begins to project and a dry woody timbre pushes out a light powder.  Continuing on, a smoky note appears along with a dry vetiver, but as soon as I write that, the dryness makes way for a buttery vanilla.  Here, the perfume is simply sublime as it fills the air with a rich, sophisticated suede that feels like it’s coming from a well of nature.  It’s not dirty, nor heavy, instead, the perfume feels earthy and grounded and nostalgic.  As it continues to unfold, the tobacco and the leather mix in a swirl of wafting smoke.  Here, the dirt from the cobblestone streets meet the soles of the well-worn shoes that walk them.

From the Carner Barcelona website:

inspiration:  “At the crest of upper Barcelona once a place to see and be seen, an iconic bar where the smoke of cigars flirted with the aristocratic leather armchairs…”

top notes – Suede Accord, Italian bergamot, Vintage Jasmin absolute, Chinese osmanthus absolute, Bulgarian rose essence

mid notes – Tobacco Accord,  Clary sage absolute, Virginian cedar wood, Peru balsam, Mexican vanilla extract

base notes –  Spanish leather accord, Patchouli essence, Vetyver essence, Ethiopian frankincense extract, Oak moss absolute

wellwornsandalWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Your favorite pair of well-worn leather/suede sandals.  So comfortable, like an old friend.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SANDOR 70’s:  vintage, careworn, comfortable

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SANDOR 70’s: Fragrance Daily

BOTTOM LINE:  Part of the new Black Collection, Sandor 70’s is my favorite among the three perfumes in the line.  Here, the nod to nostalgia is done perfectly and makes this a leather perfume that’s perfect for those who don’t like their leather over the top.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Leather
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $220 for 50 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily.