The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Vintage Coty Imprévu Parfum

WHAT I SMELL:  Imprévu opens with lemony tinged aldehydes that quickly become entrenched in the most beautiful oak moss in addition to a more rounded citrus.  Soon enough, the perfume moves from the citrus and becomes lightly creamy with pulsating florals.  There’s also a spiced note that gives the perfume a bit of exoticness.  At this stage, Imprévu’s heart is deep, warm, a bit mysterious and incredibly alluring.  After some time, a light soapiness emerges, but that soon dissipates and that’s when the real magic happens.  Around 10 minutes into wearing the perfume, a light rich leather melds with the deep and warm florals and the perfume begins to dry with a powdery oakmoss.  The perfume is so beautiful at this point with its warm, in charge and take no prisoners personality.  Imprévu in french means “unforseen” or “unexpected.”  The perfume is exactly that… but in the most wonderful of ways.

From Fragrantica:

Imprévu was launched in 1965 as an intense female perfume that ideally balances the chypre, wood and leather aromas.  Absolutely mature and opulent, it opens with aldehydes and citruses like bergamot and bitter orange.  The heart is composed of leather with traces of clove and floral notes, placed on a wooden base with oak moss.


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Santa Maria Novella Patchouli

WHAT I SMELL:   Patchouli’s opening is warm, with musty and thickened earthy patchouli that increasingly radiates off of the skin at every breath you take in.  There’s also a medicinal quality that is a cross between herbaceous and mentholated.  In a short time, Patchouli becomes woody, rather dry and it feels like the perfume was dug out from the bottom of a forest.  This is not a pretty patchouli, nor one of sweet youth, but a patchouli that reins from ancient times and one that has been fermenting in a cask until ready to be released after years of careful curation.  As the perfume develops in slow, deliberate and small nuances, it quietly settles in a woody, musky and dried, yet creamy crush of patchouli.  Patchouli would be perfect for those cool and rainy contemplative days when you don’t want to be troubled by current events.

From the Santa Maria Novella website:

The Patchouli perfume from the Officina Profumo Farmaceutica of Santa Maria Novella is a bouquet of oriental woody notes, which evoke the homonymous plant’s homeland: Malaysia and India. In the regions of origin, the unmistakable smell of patchouli pervades public and domestic environments, as traditional medicine believes that it acts on the physical balance and has a positive effect on the psyche.

Olfactory Notes:  Woody notes

Top: floral note

Heart: rosewood

Base: patchouli, sandalwood, oak moss

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  An abandoned Italian villa with remnants of ancient memories still lingering in the air.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PATCHOULI:  ancient, earthy, serious

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PATCHOULI:  Take One Thing Off, Perfume Smellin’ Things

BOTTOM LINE:  Patchouli is beautiful without being loud, funky or sweet in any way.  Although not an everyday perfume, it’s one that you’ll go back to again and again when the mood is just right.  For those of you who love patchouli, this is one for your collection.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Woody
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $125 for 100 ml eau de cologne


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Roja Parfums Scandal Pour Homme Parfum Cologne

WHAT I SMELL:   Scandal Pour Homme Parfum Cologne isn’t quite scandalous as it opens, but it is rather uplifting with zesty bergamot, lemon and lavender with a perfect touch of spearmint.  Instead of being infused with juice, the perfume enters with a dryness that reminds me of an application of talc.  From first spritz, Scandal is a refined masculine scent and its herbal sweetness is incredibly magnetic.  As the perfume continues to develop, the dryness begins to lessen in order to allow for the most delicate of florals to begin to grace the skin.  Here, the mix of florals, with a quiet violet and rose being most prominent, make the perfume a bit brighter and more lighthearted.  Continuing on its journey, a woody vetiver rises to take its place at the heart of the perfume.  After some time, the perfume warms with a wonderful tonka bean and becomes ever so lightly sweet and sour.  Scandal is a traditional fougère with just the right amount of “twist.”

“When a scandal hits, heads turn and secrets unravel. Everything is exposed as barriers are pushed and limits are tested. You either hide, or embrace it. A true head-turner, Scandal opens with an exciting burst of Lemon, Spearmint and Lavender, which flirts with an unusual Rhubarb note spread across a rich and sensual bed woven around the indulgent nuances of Tonka Bean. Tempted to do something which causes a scandal, it ensures you are talked about.” – Roja Dove.

Scandal Olfactory Description:  Basil, Spearmint, Lavender, and Tarragon add their pronounced aromatic freshness to a medley of Bergamot, Lemon, and Petitgrain, then given touches of sweetness from a mix of Jasmine, Violet, Rose, and Lily of the Valley, warmed by Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Casmir Wood, Cardamom, Nutmeg, and Clove, held captive by Vetiver, Patchouli, and Mosses, with an unusual note of Rhubarb, on a sensual base of Ambergris, Musk, leather-like Labdanum, and Tonka Bean.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Alain Delon in ‘Plein Soleil’ (Purple Noon) 1960…rakishly handsome.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SCANDAL:  refined, self-assured, polished

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SCANDAL:  CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Roja Dove has mastered the quiet development in perfumes where the mix of ingredients unfolds in a graceful and easy way, and Scandal is no exception.  Roja Parfums has created the Parfum Cologne collection of five men’s fragrances with Scandal and Danger being the stars in my estimation, but all are fantastic in their own way.  Scandal is perfect in its modern nod to a vintage past.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Fougère
  • Nose:  Roja Dove
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense:  $290 for 100 ml parfum cologne