The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Vintage Guerlain Chamade Eau de Cologne

I love living in my adopted country of Mexico, but will wholeheartedly admit that one of the downsides of living in this beautiful country is the access to perfume.  Mexicans love their perfume; when you walk down the street everyone leaves behind a trail of perfumed bliss.  That said, you can find the standard department store fragrances without issue, but anything out of the ordinary (niche or high end) is impossible to get, at least here in the Yucatan.  And forget shipping from overseas, Mexico, like many countries, does not allow for the shipment of “flammable liquids.”  So yes, getting the latest and greatest new releases in a timely manner is something that I have had to learn to live without.

Another thing I miss is the ability shop on eBay.  Instead, here they have a similar site called MercadoLibre.  But perfume shopping is pretty much limited to the same perfumes found in the stores.  Of course, that doesn’t keep me from scanning the site every now and then just as I did the other day.  To my surprise, someone was selling an unopened bottle vintage bottle of Guerlain Chamade Eau de Cologne.  They said the bottle was 200 ml and in researching pricing, I found it to be a pretty good deal.  So I thought what the heck, this doesn’t happen every day and I have never ordered anything from MercadoLibre, so I went for it.  The shipper said they would ship “next day,” but I have to admit I was skeptical.  Two days after placing my order, a heavy box arrived from Mexico City.  I opened the box which was packed perfectly and found the largest bottle of perfume I had ever seen.  My first thought is that it was a factice, but once I put my nose up to the stopper I could clearly smell that it was indeed perfume.  The perfume didn’t come with a box, and the size was not labeled on the bottle.  After some research it was determined that the bottle is a 16 oz. or 500 ml bottle….for the size, the purchase turned out to be an incredible deal.

For size comparison, the Vol de Nuit on the left is 3 oz. and the Mitsouko on the right is 1.7 oz.

I love my Guerlains with Vol de Nuit being one of my all time favorite perfumes, but I never really paid much attention to Chamade.  A light green floral is perfect for the hot weather here, but that doesn’t mean I would like the perfume.  So did I make a good purchase?

WHAT I SMELL: 

The beauty of Chamade is instantaneously revealed with it’s opening of bright sparkling aldehydes which quickly meld with a green stem-ladened hyacinth.  This is spring in a bottle…I picture bouncing lambs running on hills of green.  The opening of this perfume is utterly delightful and so incredibly pretty.  For being a vintage bottle that is most likely from the 1970s, the top notes are surprisingly intact.  The perfume stays in this greenish floral bliss for quite some time, but after some time its met with a layer of powder that smells like makeup.  After more time, the galbanum takes front and center as the perfume dries out and continues to powder.  The perfume is green without being too sharp and to me this makes this easier to wear.  And just when I thought the perfume couldn’t get any prettier, out comes a floral heart with rose at the center topped with a comforting smooth vanilla and sandalwood combination, which helps to cut the powdery green.  Here, the perfume moves from the spring to the more serious…or should I say more seriously beautifully refined and mature.

From the Guerlain website:

For the first time in perfumery, Guerlain introduced to a formula the green and fruity accent of blackcurrant bud, freshened with a green harmony of hyacinth. Lastly, this symphony is embellished with Guerlinade, which majestically showcases jasmine, vanilla and sandalwood.

One of these Easter lovelies is probably wearing Chamade…which one is it?

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Although launched in 1969, Chamade to me is quintessentially early to mid-1960s as it’s rooted in the past and not so much in the modern era of the time.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHAMADE:  springtime, happiness, contentment

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHAMADE:  Yesterday’s Perfume, Perfume Posse

BOTTOM LINE: Chamade, where have you been all of my life?  This perfume is so pretty and easy to wear that it might be one of those perfumes that just doesn’t get the love that it deserves.  As for me, I’ll continue to search on MercadoLibre for the parfum extrait version.  Chamade is truly a love.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Fruity Floral Oriental
  • Nose:  Jean-Paul Guerlain
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense:  Varies for vintage


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Puredistance Aenotus

WHAT I SMELL:  Aenotus greets the skin with a soft as silk citrus which glides along with a light touch of yuzu in a haze off of the skin.  Incredibly inviting, Aenotus’ opening is all about comfort and reassurance with just the right amount of sunshine.  After a while, and very quietly, the citrus notes seem to drift off as if the wind lightly carries them away.  A warm and lightly sugared accord gracefully takes center stage, once again adding a layer of perfumed comfort.  Aenotus doesn’t shout about it’s beauty, instead it confidently retreats from anything that can be construed as overt.  A hazy oakmoss begins to then radiate, tinged with pettigrain, adding more comfort along with a subtle elegance.  Here the perfume begins to illuminate lightly off of the skin which after a great deal of time finally surrenders to a most gracious musk.  Aenotus quietly and effortlessly transforms in the most beautiful way.

From the Puredistance website:

AENOTUS is a perfume that, despite its high percentage of perfume oil, is not loud – and after an intense and fresh opening – transforms into a delicate scent, very close to the skin. Only those dear and near will be close enough to enjoy its subtle and intriguing character.

In Greek mythology, Aeolus is the God of the winds who brings coolness to the South of Europe. In AENOTUS the cool notes of Aeolus are fusing with the soft, sensual warmth of the South. And the classic (Latin) ending of the word Aenotus suggests the depth and maturation of time.

NOTES:  Orange, Mandarin, Lemon, Yuzu, Mint, Blackcurrant bud, Petitgrain, Oakmoss, Patchouli & Musks

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Perfumed aura.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE AENOTUS: soft, serene, sublime

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AENOTUS:  The Plum Girl, The Fragrant Journey, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE:  Aenotus isn’t a perfume that is meant to be smelled by lifting your arm to your nose.  Instead, it’s an enticing haze that surrounds the wearer creating the most sublime cocoon of perfumed peacefulness.  Aenotus is a subtle beauty.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Citrus Aromatic
  • Nose:  Antoine Lie
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense:  295 Euros for 60 ml parfum extrait.  Also available in 17 ml and 100 ml sizes.


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Roja Parfums Elixir

WHAT I SMELL:  Elixir opens with a soft, sweet, beautiful juicy raspberry and peach.  It’s so edible and inviting and it’s an immediate spirit lifter.  A luscious rose and a brightened jasmine come sweeping in; mixing in an intoxicating way with the fruity goodness.  I always love a perfume that is full of positive energy and Elixir is the epitome of positivity.  The perfume starts to take on a layer of cottony musk which adds just the right amount of clean-like sparkle.  And soon enough, a light warmth begins to blend with the sweetened cotton which makes the perfume that much more comforting.  Not too long in the perfume’s development, Elixir begins to quiet and soften.  It’s still lightly sweet, but very demure in the most enticing way.

From the Roja Parfums website:

“Fragrance is like a magical elixir: Invisible, a single drop can transform you into a goddess. It has the power to make you feel irresistible, confident, and seductive – where anything is possible. This magical elixir exudes effortless sensuality – giving you the power to light up a room, to leave an impression, and to get what you want.” – Roja Dove.

Top Notes:  Bergamot

Heart Notes:  Lily of the Valley, Geranium, Rose de Mai, Jasmin de Grasse, Ylang Ylang, Heliotrope, Violet, Raspberry, Peach

Base Notes:  Violet Leaves, Cinnamon, Cedarwood, Casmir Wood, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Orris Sur Cèdre, Orris, Ambrette, Musk

Marilyn Monroe

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Quietly pink.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ELIXIR:  soft, inviting, sweetened

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ELIXIR: Ms Tantrum Blog, Fashion for Lunch, fromSandyxo

BOTTOM LINE:  I have to admit that Elixir was not love at first sniff.  I thought it was pretty, but after wearing it a couple of times, I found that I was craving its quiet beauty.  Elixir borders on being a skin scent, because when you are wearing it, it feels as if it’s not projecting.   But others around me have been left wondering where the heavenly scent is coming from.  Elixir is a very personal fragrance…one that’s easy to make your own.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Nose:  Roja Dove
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense:  $290 for 100 ml Essence de Parfum. Also available in parfum extrait.