The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Vintage Habanita by Molinard

habanita1WHAT I SMELL:  Habanita has a dramatic opening that is glowingly sweetened, with a blast of fruit followed quickly by a warming floral mix that is highlighted by lilac and rose.  The perfume is so deliciously inviting as it seems to envelops the wearer.  Habanita has a sweet edge to it, but it’s not a perfume that I would categorize as sweet.  Maybe because as it develops the dryness of the oakmoss, the fresh tobacco and sheen of leather tone down the higher pitched notes.  As the perfume settles down, the various notes even out creating this incredible balance between the spice, florals and woody notes.  Habanita is sexy without being dangerous, but it draws you in making you want more.

From the Molinard website:

1921 – Habanita was born in the exuberance of the Roaring Twenties. With trailblazing spirit, Molinard revolutionized perfume codes, creating the first women’s Oriental fragrance featuring vetiver, an essence hitherto reserved for men. From perfume extract to the essence of the femme fatale, Habanita’s innovative style was eagerly embraced by the garçonnes-  France’s flappers – and soon became Molinard’s runaway success and an icon in the history of French perfume.

Top notes are orange blossom, raspberry, peach and bergamot; middle notes are lilac, orris root, jasmine, heliotrope, ylang-ylang and rose; base notes are leather, amber, musk, benzoin, vanilla, oakmoss and cedar.

cyd168WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Cyd Charisse

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE HABANITA:  whirling, energetic, dynamic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT HABANITA:  Fragrance Daily, Yesterday’s Perfume, Grain de Musc

BOTTOM LINE:  Habanita is one of a kind.  It’s the kind of perfume that I crave.  Unique, beautiful, radiant…I can’t imagine not owning a bottle.

  • Bone Rating:  5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental
  • Classification: To me this is perfectly unisex
  • Expense: Review based on the vintage parfum extrait version.  Prices vary on eBay, etc.


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Vintage Chaldée by Jean Patou

Chaldee

WHAT I SMELL:  Vintage Chaldée opens with a deep warm full-bodied floral bouquet.  I’m not sure if the top notes are still there as the perfume sets very quickly into the resin based floral presentation.  The perfume is thick and rich with a deep lilac presenting itself as the floral star.  But the lilac isn’t soft and gentle, instead its thickened with the opoponox.  After a while, a dust covers the base of the perfume, giving it a vintage feel without making it feel like it belongs in another time.  The dust then turns to more of a cotton and for some reason it reminds me if the smell of brand new white tube socks.  After around 20 minutes, the vanilla brings an ever so slight sweetness to the warmed florals.  Funny, after around 1/2 hour, a little bit of civet seems to creep in giving the perfume an added depth and dimension.  Finally, the perfume ends it’s journey in this warmed and flattened bouquet that projects this beautiful and confident persona.

Top notes: orange blossom and hyacinth. Heart: jasmine, lilac and narcissus. Base: opoponax, amber and vanilla.

Large floral hatWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A grand hat from a bygone era.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHALDÉE:  warm, contained, deep

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHALDÉE: Now Smell This, Perfume Shrine, I Smell Therefore I Am

BOTTOM LINE:  For an eau de toilette, vintage Chaldee has a large personality and is incredibly long-lasting.  I recently had a chance to test the newly reissued version in eau de parfum concentration and it opened up grand and glorious much like the original.  I was ecstatic.  However, surprisingly enough, it didn’t have the lasting power and it turned rather dark on me.  I do need to give it another chance though…but the vintage….oh my, beautiful.  Thanks to Holly for this beautiful gift!

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Floral
  • Nose: Henri Almeras in 1927
  • Classification: Leans feminine, but could be unisex
  • Expense: Prices vary on eBay.


3 Comments

Vintage Dior Dioressence

Dioressence

WHAT I SMELL:  Dioressence opens with a warm and bold patchouli combined with a tad of vanilla. It’s pretty, warm and inviting.  That initial blast of patchouli starts to diminish to reveal a creamy floral mix punctuated with a spicy carnation.  After 10 minutes, the perfume begins to dry and become lightly powdered which is great because it helps to pull the perfume away again from being dominated by the patchouli.  After another 20 minutes the softens a bit more, but at the heart of Dioressence is a warm and inviting patchouli that tops a rounded and rather beefy mix of florals.  Dioressence is radiant, slightly carnal and very in control.

Notes from Fragrantica:

Top notes are aldehydes, orange, fruity notes, patchouli, green notes and bergamot; middle notes are carnation, tuberose, cinnamon, violet, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose and geranium; base notes are musk, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, oakmoss, vetiver and styrax.

Central Park - FallWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Central Park NYC in the Fall.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE DIORESSENCE:  secure, confident, sensual

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DIORESSENCE: Now Smell This, I Scent You a Day, The Non-Blonde

BOTTOM LINE:  As with many vintage perfumes, the top notes are first to go, so I didn’t experience any aldehyde and bergamot rush in the opening.  But that doesn’t mean this isn’t a beauty.  Au contraire…it’s very pretty.  Actually, it reminds me greatly of the discontinued MPG George Sand.  No wonder I like it so much!

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre Floral
  • Nose:  Guy Robert
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Varies.  Review based on vintage Eau de Toilette