The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Vintage Ma Griffe by Carven

WHAT I SMELL:  Ma Griffe opens with bright aldehydes followed by a mix of florals that turn surprisingly green.   There’s an undercurrent of rapturous warmth that sits below the florals that makes the perfume heady and full-bodied in a rather provocative manner.  Ma Griffe is not shy in the least and as it goes on she tells you exactly who she is right from the beginning.  As the perfume continues to develop, there’s a note or combination of notes that reminds me of slightly worn silk undergarments.  It’s a mix of perfume, powder and just a hint of light sweat gained from normal daily activity.  As such, this makes Ma Griffe a veritible seductress.  As the perfume continues to morph, the florals begin to deepen with tonka bean taking root along side a drying oak moss.  Here, Ma Griffe is fully in charge and makes it known that she is all woman and doesn’t mind if you call her a dame.

Top notes: Aldehydes, clary sage, galbanum, bergamot
Heart notes: Gardenia, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose
Base notes: Cinnamon, tonka bean, vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The unapologetic user of men; Barbara Stanwyck in the pre-code classic movie “Babyface.”

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MA GRIFFEbold, seductive, empowered

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MA GRIFFE:  Yesterday’s Perfume, Smelly Blog, Perfume Shrine

BOTTOM LINE:  I acquired the bottle pictured above years ago from a woman who was cleaning out her aunt’s estate.  I believe it’s from the 1970’s or ’80s and is the EDT “mis-s-s-ster” version.  The “mister” no longer works so it comes out of the bottle dribbling from under the sprayer.  I imagine that the mister would provide a bit of a softer experience, but I can’t say for sure.  For me, Ma Griffe is interestingly bold and beautiful, but I find that it’s not something I gravitate to or wear very often.  I think’s it’s because I like my vintage perfumes to have a bit of a soft side and Ma Griffe is anything but soft from start to finish.  Still, it’s a pretty darn amazing perfume.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre Floral
  • Classification:  Feminine
  • Expense:  Prices for vintage vary considerably on concentration, etc.


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November Surprise – Vintage Guerlain Chant d’Arômes Eau de Cologne

I think most of us would agree that 2020 has been a challenging year at best.  The year for me thus far seems to have come to a crescendo in October.  October ended with the 3rd Tropical Storm/Hurricane of the season, thankfully none of which caused too much damage besides record setting amounts of rain.  Some friends found their houses leaking with water damage and/or flooding.  Ours managed to maintain.  But at the same time, and during storm 3, we had to move out of our house because we sold it.  Yes, people do buy homes in foreign lands during a pandemic.  And yes, we too were surprised.  Add to the stress of moving, our movers decided at the last minute they could not store our belongings as they said they could.  That’s a challenge because there is not any climate controlled storage here in Merida and the heat combined with antiques is not a good combination.  So, at the last minute we were able to find a rental that worked out perfectly.   But as 2020 keeps giving; two weeks prior to our move on a quiet Sunday afternoon someone decided to run a stop sign and broadside our car.  Thankfully we weren’t hurt, but the car is still on the shop.  So needless to say, this is why I haven’t posted in a month.  It has been stressful to say the least.

But now it’s November, we’re settled into our beautiful rental.  We’re starting the process for building our new house which is to be completed in a year.  We’re happy and healthy and we have a new President-elect which will hopefully bring promise for a better 2021.   So no complaints because we have plenty to be thankful for.  And add just a bit of a cherry on top to it all, I managed to find an unopened vintage bottle of Guerlain Chant d’Arômes.  I love the vintage Guerlain colognes and this is no exception and a great way to slide into November and a promise of a new beginning.

WHAT I SMELL:  Chant d’Arômes opens with soft and lightly sweetened florals which are greeted with bright aldehydes.  There’s a light powder and a slight metallic edge that seems to drift off rather quickly as the soft, light and bright florals take center stage.  The perfume is more of a collection of flowers than of compartmentalized notes.  The florals meld together to make for a spring bouquet of warm and enticing beauty.  Never harsh, nor too strong, the perfume is softness personified.

From Fragrantica:

Guerlain Chant d’Aromes was created by Jean-Paul Guerlain in 1962. This is a fragrance for a woman which wears perfume for the sake of her pleasures only. It is a floral bouquet that talks a language of flowers. This perfume contains natural essences and belongs to the ‘chypre’ olfactory group. The main notes are aldehydes, gardenia, mirabelle, jasmine, cloves, honeysuckle, ylang-ylang, heliotrope, benzoin, oliban and vetiver.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Contentment.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHANT D’ARÔMES:  light, happy, innocent

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHANT D’ARÔMES:  The Black Narcissus, The Non-Blonde, Perfume Shrine

BOTTOM LINE: Chant d’Arômes is a soft and pretty perfume that is infinitely easy to wear.  In reading other reviews of the perfume, it seems like the EDT and extrait have essences of peach, which I don’t find with the EDC version.  Instead, I just get a delightfully calming spread of innocent florals.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Chypre Floral
  • Nose:  Jean-Paul Guerlain
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense:  Varies for vintage


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Vintage Coty Imprévu Parfum

WHAT I SMELL:  Imprévu opens with lemony tinged aldehydes that quickly become entrenched in the most beautiful oak moss in addition to a more rounded citrus.  Soon enough, the perfume moves from the citrus and becomes lightly creamy with pulsating florals.  There’s also a spiced note that gives the perfume a bit of exoticness.  At this stage, Imprévu’s heart is deep, warm, a bit mysterious and incredibly alluring.  After some time, a light soapiness emerges, but that soon dissipates and that’s when the real magic happens.  Around 10 minutes into wearing the perfume, a light rich leather melds with the deep and warm florals and the perfume begins to dry with a powdery oakmoss.  The perfume is so beautiful at this point with its warm, in charge and take no prisoners personality.  Imprévu in french means “unforseen” or “unexpected.”  The perfume is exactly that… but in the most wonderful of ways.

From Fragrantica:

Imprévu was launched in 1965 as an intense female perfume that ideally balances the chypre, wood and leather aromas.  Absolutely mature and opulent, it opens with aldehydes and citruses like bergamot and bitter orange.  The heart is composed of leather with traces of clove and floral notes, placed on a wooden base with oak moss.