The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Vintage Shopping: Hermès Calèche and the Guerlain Mystery Perfume

I love shopping for vintage perfumes.  I mean, physically going to antique stores and estate sales to find those hidden gems.  One of the down sides of living in Mexico is that there are neither.  Yes, once in a while I can find a vintage perfume online, but it’s not quite the same of the rush of finding a treasure hidden in some dark cabinet in the back of a store.

We recently went back to the US to the outskirts of Seattle, Washington.  We love Mexico, but getting away from the heat every once in a while is essential and that part of the country is incredibly beautiful and the weather this time of the year is perfect.  But one of the best things about going back to the US, even in this time of COVID, is the ability to go shopping for vintage perfume.  What a treat!

Of course, these days, not all of the antique stores were open.  And in the ones that were, the the pickings were rather slim , unless you were looking for the random celebrity perfume.  But I did manage to find a bottle of 1980’s Hermès Calèche Eau de Toilette.  The perfume was used, came in a weathered box and was not the greatest bargain.  Even with given all of that, of course I had to purchase the perfume!

WHAT I SMELL:  Calèche opens with bright aldehydes, mixed with the lightest of soap tinged soft and tender florals.  Quickly, a light oakmoss begins to appear from below and the perfume becomes a bit more muted with a cottony finish.  In short time, the florals, now warmer, come forward with a richness and radiance that is pure luxury.  And as the perfume continues to settle, a light leather pins itself under the dusty florals.  Calèche is never heavy, nor sweet, but is an understated confident beauty that radiates a elegant aura.

From the Hermes website:

Written in 1961 by Guy Robert, Calèche was Hermès’ first fragrance for women. A highly feminine, woody, chypre floral, its name refers to the horse-drawn carriages that are emblematic of the house. Calèche is a novel that dazzles with the beauty of its raw materials, from the joyfulness of citrus fruit to the modernity of aldehyde notes; from the floral heart embellished with ylang-ylang, rose and jasmine to the woody, chypre sillage underscored by the nobility of the iris.

Jane Fonda

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  1970’s sophistication.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CALÈCHE:  dusty, easy, tailored

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CALÈCHEThe Black Narcissus, Yesterday’s Perfume, The Vintage Perfume Vault

BOTTOM LINE:  I have no regrets with my purchase and surprisingly it seems that the top notes have held up better than I had anticipated.  Calèche is a beauty that is easy to wear and thankfully perfect for the hot Mexican weather as the sun and heat make it bloom without being too heavy.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Aldehyde
  • Nose: Guy Robert
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: Prices for vintage vary.  Review based on the eau de toilette version.

EPILOGUE:  When I transport vintage and used perfumes in my luggage, I typically use Parafilm to ensure that the perfumes don’t leak.  If you haven’t heard of Parafilm, I suggest you read the wise words of Undina who has helped me save many a perfume throughout the years.  However, this time, even though I carried Parafilm with me, I failed to use it and the bottle leaked.  I didn’t lose a great amount of perfume, but just enough to ruin the already tattered box as well as to rub the finish off the perfume’s cap.  Of course, this does nothing to take away the beauty of the perfume…but I, like most other perfumistas, would rather have a pristine bottle sitting on my shelf.  Lesson learned!

The damaged Calèche and the Guerlain Mystery Perfume.

VINTAGE GUERLAIN MYSTERY PERFUME

When I travel to the US to visit friends, I typically will purchase a few items on eBay before I go, just because I can’t do it here in Mexico.  Prior to going to the US this time, I noted that there was a 100 ml vintage Guerlain cologne bottle for sale at a very low cost.  The bottle had no label on the front and no label on the bottom.  On the plus side the perfume was sealed.  And I should say that I love Guerlain colognes as they’re perfect for the Mexican heat.  So, for a mere $35, I purchased the perfume.  So what was in the mystery bottle?  Or was it just a factice?

The mystery perfume turned out to be Shalimar.  The really wasn’t a surprise as it seems to be the most widely available vintage Guerlain cologne on eBay.  I have no complaints as the bottle is in great shape and the perfume smells fabulous.   For $35 would you have purchased the perfume even without a label?  As for me, I would do it again in a heartbeat.


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Tableau de Parfums Miriam

Miriam EdPWHAT I SMELL:  Miriam’s opening is comprised of sweet bergamot and light aldehydes which are quickly met with warmed geranium.  Immediately, Miriam feels old school with a distinctive make-up, lipstick and violet laced presence.  I was expecting the opening to be lighter and more powdery. Instead, it’s a smooth almost honeyed mix of florals accentuated at first by violet, but then with rose and jasmine.  Suprisingly restrained, the perfume provides an aura of self-assuredness and strength, while maintaining its femininity. Even though it feels nostalgic, there’s nothing sweet or innocent in the perfume.  After around 10 minutes, a deeper projection of sandalwood and what feels like a tinge of civet, continues to bring a more woody confidence to this beautiful perfume.  After 20 minutes, Miriam begins to project.  The warmth of the opening, moves toward a dry and powdery mix of lavender and orris root.  In fact, when sniffed, the dryness pulls the wet out of my throat and nose.  In the end, you’re left with a powdered puff of violet laced haze of a perfume.  And even though there’s a quiet confidence in Miriam that is all woman, there’s no messing with this in control no-nonsense beauty.

From the Tableau de Parfums website:

Miriam references the heady, diffusive fragrances of the thirties and forties.  It is vintage in spirit but with a contemporary character.  A fragrance constructed in the tradition of classic perfumery, Miriam is the kind of fragrance they don’t make much anymore.

Notes: bergamot, sweet orange, geranium, violet blossom, rose, jasmine, ylang, violet leaf, lavender, vanilla, orris root, sandalwood.

MBDMIPI EC005WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A 1940’s Joan Crawford; in-between all woman and all out dame.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE MIRIAM: nostalgic, confident, captivating

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MIRIAM: Bonkers About Perfume, EauMG, Persolaise

BOTTOM LINE:  The sample has been sitting on my office desk for a few days now and when I walk in the room, the fragrance lingers within the confines of the room.  It reminds me of my mother when I was a child when I would walk in my parents bedroom and I could still smell the powder and the lipstick from the evening before.  Miriam is like a lovely dream from the past.  Recently I reviewed Chanel’s Misia which has a similar makeup vibe; Miriam is much more my cup of tea.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Aldehyde
  • Nose: Andy Tauer
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $165 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum and $40 for 7 ml purse spray (I love that option!)


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Vintage Review – Caron Infini

IfiniWHAT I SMELL:  Infini goes on thick to the skin with a layered sheen, it opens quickly with aldehydes and then warms with a wonderful almost cinnamon like sandalwood. It’s rich and round with jasmine in the foreground, followed closely by a non-waxy tuberose (thankfully).  This is big floral that’s slightly animalic, and the kind of perfume that makes me infinitely happy as it’s a woman’s perfume that’s unapologetic in its pomp.  After around 10 minutes, the fragrance begins to lighten just slightly and it retreats to become a bit softer, a tad bit soapy with just an ever so slight hint of oakmoss.  However, the gorgeous warm florals remain front and center.  Infini doesn’t develop much which is fine because it doesn’t have to. It’s beautiful enough as it is.

From Fragrantica:

Infini by Caron was created in 1912 but In 1970, the perfume was reformulated.  To echo and reflect the rhythm, futurism and speed of the early 70’s, Caron created a completely, original, revolutionary aroma with a base of tuberose, hyacinth and lily of the valley, all composed with notes of vetyver and sandalwood. Since it was the era of astronauts, the perfume was baptized “Infini” in honor of outer space. Its bottle, an asymmetrical sculpture designed by Serge Mansau, is hollowed out in the middle and is inspired by the mathematical sign for infinity.

A slight variation from Fragrantica, Yesterday’s Perfume posts the notes as:

Top notes: Aldehyde complex, bergamot, peach, neroli, coriander

Heart notes: Rose centifolia, jasmine, lily of the valley, orris, ylang-ylang, carnation

Base notes: Sandalwood, vetiver, ambrein, tonka, musk, civet

warmandhappy2

A napping cat in the sun…very warm and happy.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   I’m not getting the outer space connection besides the bottle design because this feels incredibly classic rather than futuristic….so I’ll bypass that analogy.  Instead, Infini makes me feel “warm and happy.”  And don’t get the wrong impression from the picture, this is about as sophisticated and beautiful floral feminine fragrance that is geared to the mature woman that you can get.  But to me, it makes me “warm and happy!”

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE INFINI:  warm, substantial, elegant

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT INFINI:  The Black Narcissus, Yesterday’s Perfume, Australian Perfume Junkies

BOTTOM LINE:  This is another Caron beauty that I have fallen in love with.  Again though, like with the other Caron’s I have tried, the lasting power could be a bit longer.  Oh well, that means I’ll just have to use more.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Floral Aldehyde
  • Nose:  Gerard Lefortis
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense:   Review based on Parfum Extrait.  Various prices and vintage concentrations can be found on eBay and through other sources.