The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


Vintage Dior Dioressence


WHAT I SMELL:  Dioressence opens with a warm and bold patchouli combined with a tad of vanilla. It’s pretty, warm and inviting.  That initial blast of patchouli starts to diminish to reveal a creamy floral mix punctuated with a spicy carnation.  After 10 minutes, the perfume begins to dry and become lightly powdered which is great because it helps to pull the perfume away again from being dominated by the patchouli.  After another 20 minutes the softens a bit more, but at the heart of Dioressence is a warm and inviting patchouli that tops a rounded and rather beefy mix of florals.  Dioressence is radiant, slightly carnal and very in control.

Notes from Fragrantica:

Top notes are aldehydes, orange, fruity notes, patchouli, green notes and bergamot; middle notes are carnation, tuberose, cinnamon, violet, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose and geranium; base notes are musk, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, oakmoss, vetiver and styrax.

Central Park - FallWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Central Park NYC in the Fall.


WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DIORESSENCE: Now Smell This, I Scent You a Day, The Non-Blonde

BOTTOM LINE:  As with many vintage perfumes, the top notes are first to go, so I didn’t experience any aldehyde and bergamot rush in the opening.  But that doesn’t mean this isn’t a beauty.  Au contraire…it’s very pretty.  Actually, it reminds me greatly of the discontinued MPG George Sand.  No wonder I like it so much!

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre Floral
  • Nose:  Guy Robert
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Varies.  Review based on vintage Eau de Toilette


Intrigant Patchouli by Parfumerie Generale

WHAT I SMELL: Opens almost medicinal and like Vick’s vapor rub which then moves quickly to a civet and castoreum phase… I am hoping to God that this gets better.  Finally, this moves to a honeyed ambered patchouli that is not too sweet, but not my cup of tea.  How come this reminds me of Tauer’s Orange Star?  Both have patchouli in them but not other similar notes but somehow the combination just hits me wrong in the worst possible way. I could go on with descriptors but I think you already got my point:  I don’t like it!

Intrigant Patchouli Notes:  ginger, animal patchouli, Mysore’s Sandal Wood, Benzoin, Amber and Musk.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  What I envision Courtney Love early 90’s to smell like; dirty and grungy and trying to smell like a 60’s hippie (don’t get me wrong, I love Courtney Love and Hole big time, I just don’t want to smell like her).



WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT INTRIGANT PATCHOULI:  Fragrance Bouquet, Smellythoughts, Pour Monsieur

BOTTOM LINE: I am finding that I do like patchouli as a note.  However, this takes patchouli down the wrong path for me.  Uggghhh, I need to go wash this off now as it’s making my stomach turn.

  • Bone Rating: 2 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Animalic Chypre
  • Nose: Pierre Guillaume
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $100 for 50ml EdP


Mon Patchouly by Ramon Monegal

Thanks to the wonderful Penny Lane Perfumes and their generous shipment of samples from the Ramon Monegal line, I was finally able to test their Mon Patchouly after reading Victoria’s wonderful review of this fragrance on EuaMG.  She was right, this is the loveliest of patchouli scents.

WHAT I SMELL:  Mon Patchouly opens exactly with what you expect, patchouli.  It’s rounded, a little bold and ever so lightly sweet.  I can smell the jasmine dancing in the background which creates a light floral breeziness to the rather bold beginning.  After a bit, the amber note creates a warm base that makes the scent rather creamy.  Once you think that Mon Patuchouly is ready to settle down, out comes a bit of sour, which I believe is the oak moss as it makes this much more earthy.  In the end, you’re left with a soft and mysterious light patchouli creamy amberish warmth with just a hint of powder.

Mon Patchouly Notes:  Indonesian patchouli, oak moss absolute, incense, bourbon geranium, Egyptian jasmine, and vegetal amber

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  This is heaven-sent, but grounded to the earth and slightly mysterious and otherworldly.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE MON PATCHOULY: comfortable, grounded, semi-bold

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MON PATCHOULY:  EauMG, Perfume Shrine, Parfumistan’s Blog

BOTTOM LINE:  I have only recently discovered that I love patchouli.  This helps to solidify my feelings for this note.  Am I ready to buy a FB of this?  I think I have some more patchouli’s to test to commit to one just yet, but this is lovely.  And please note, as you wear this it does open up, so a little goes along way.  I can’t wait to test some of the Ramon Monegals because this was a great opener.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Oriental Woody
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Nose:  Ramon Monegal
  • Expense: $185 for 50ml EdP