The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Juliette Has A Gun – Moscow Mule

WHAT I SMELL:  Moscow Mule kicks off with a zesty, but subtle bergamot which then amps up to a wonderfully delicious ginger and lime. It’s like a little bit of happiness in a spritz.  I love this opening so much that I wish the perfume would remain in this realm forever, but unfortunately it continues it’s journey past the zesty jubilance.  But no worries, Moscow Mule continues its progression to reveal a green apple note that keeps the perfume bright and light.  There’s just a hint of a hairspray note on top of the apple, but it’s not enough to overpower or take away from the green fruit.  This is where the perfume resides and wonderfully so as it’s fresh and breezy and an easy wear.  A bit of ambroxan gives the perfume a little depth beneath the apple, but the overall star is the apple.  Finally after quite some time, a clean and cottony woodsy musk wraps up the fruitful journey. 

From the Juliette Has A Gun website:

Moscow Mule’s olfactory trail hypnotizes its audience, as if it were inviting everyone to share, over a glass of something, a timeless moment, where tongues are loosened and bodies scolding hot. A twist of ginger for the sexy side, a zest of lemon for the punch! A limitless pleasure to be consumed without moderation.

Top notes: Bergamot, Ginger, Lime
Heart notes: Apple Essence, Jasmine
Bottom notes: Ambretolide, Ambroxan, Norlimbanol

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Moscow Mule is a happy mule.

THREE WORD S THAT DESCRIBE MOSCOW MULE:  refreshing, delightful, positive

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MOSCOW MULE: CaFleureBon, EauMG, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  Moscow Mule is a great summer splash of a perfume.  It’s completely unisex and is perfect to wear as an everyday fragrance.  The only downside is that the perfume wears into a rather generic woody musk, but that just means you just have to spritz more of it on which would be just like having a second cocktail.  And is that such a bad thing?

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Citrus
  • Nose:  Romano Ricci
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $100 for 50 ml eau de parfum


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Bonheur by Bortnikoff Perfumes

WHAT I SMELL:  Bonheur opens with a warm and enveloping sparkling bergamot combined with an oppulent mix of herbs and florals.  It’s coolly warm in the sense that there’s a citrus freshness mixed with a rapturous warmth that surrounds you in the most welcoming and quiet way.  Bonheur slowly develops in a very non-linear way which makes the perfume feel exotic and seductive while at the same very approachable all while it draws you into its mystery.  After some time, the warmth turns more to a spicy herbal as it vibrates and begins to project a wonderful buzzing haze off of the skin.  As soon as this transition occurs, a green fir appears, lightening the perfume and an oakmoss begins to dry and powder the magical elixir.  But still after some more time, the more exotic once again seems to layer itself over the oakmoss with a lovely clove and incense note.  To me, the drydown is pure heaven.

Notes from the Bortnikoff website:

Top notes: Bergamot, Cardamom, Frangipani, Tagetes, and Cempaka
Heart notes: Oakmoss, Vetiver,Violet, Ambergris, Myrrh, Clove and Nutmeg
Base notes: Cedarwood, Labdanum, Vanilla and Tonka bean

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The quiet grace of a an ancient Buddhist temple.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BONHEUR:  majestic, calming, exotic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BONHEUR:  No reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  Perfumer Dmitry Bortnikov has created a masterfully blended perfume that transcends layers of combined notes.  Instead, Bonheur weaves a magical spell that serenely drifts off the skin in the most beautiful way.  Bonheur is a perfume that makes you feel as if you’re on top of the world looking down with all the beauty and grandeur that this world has to offer.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre
  • Nose:  Dmitry Bortnikov
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $180 for 30ml parfum extrait via Luckyscent or the Bortnikoff Perfumes website.


10 Comments

Blondine by Frassaï

WHAT I SMELL:   Blondine graces the skin with a smooth buttery cream that’s deep without being heavy.  Unlike many breezy top notes, It feels like a base is being built for something amazing that is about to come.  And just as I suspected, soon enough the depths of the opening begin to lighten and a floral element appears.  There’s a dreamy quality that embodies the perfume and it seems to hover over you as if it’s part of your natural aura.  As the perfume continues to develop, the florals start to bloom until they’re front and center.  The exotic flowers feel as if they’ve just been plucked from the jungle, but they don’t have an overwhelming sweetness to them.  Instead, it feels like they have been ripening in the hot rainforest sun and have been dusted with the lightest of cocoa.  I have to admit that Blondine to me is a hard perfume to describe because it seems to continually morph as you wear it….sometimes more floral, sometimes a bit more gourmand and at times, a lovely musk. But in the end it’s easy for me to categorize it as incredibly unique and absolutely exquisite fragrance.  I love this perfume.

From the Frassaï website:

A seductive and playful fragrance crafted to intrigue the senses, inspired by the 1920’s French fairy tale. Innocent sensuality is revealed through notes of sacred Ashok flower, spicy Tiger Lily and the seductive allure of cocoa, salted butter caramel, and vanilla in a base of irresistible blond musks. 

A few notes: Salted Butter Caramel, Pear Leaves, Ashok flower, Cocoa, Blond Musks

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Hammock dreaming in a sun kissed jungle.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BLONDINE:  dreamy, creamy, stunning

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BLONDINE:  CaFleureBon, Colognoisseur, Undina’s Looking Glass

BOTTOM LINE:  Blondine is a perfume that is beautiful and easy to wear.  One reason it’s so wearable is because there’s an incredible depth to the perfume without it being weighty.  That’s great for someone like myself who lives in a hot and humid environment as Blondine blossoms on the skin in such a wonderfully graceful way.  What’s not to love?

  • Bone Rating:  5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral Musky Gourmand
  • Nose:  Yann Vasnier
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $130 for 50 ml eau de parfum via the Frassaï website.