The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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New Release: Zoologist Chameleon

WHAT I SMELL:  Chameleon unfolds on first spritz all soft and warm with delicious, bergamot, edible fruits and ylang ylang.  Surprisingly it’s not too juicy or really sweet…instead it’s just so very inviting.  In fact, it feels as if you’re walking down the street and you catch a whiff of a fragrant tree whose rapturous scent grabs your attention with its intoxicating spell.  After a short while, the perfume delivers a creamy accord of frangipani that really begins to radiate off the skin.  Underneath it floats a layer of sandalwood in the same vein of Guerlain’s Samsara (and that’s a good thing).  After some more time, a light chalkiness enters which soon begins to powder slightly after which the creaminess returns which a small dose of sweet.  The perfume then quiets to the perfect stage of just the right amount of creamy, sweet and floral.  Chameleon is everything tropical, but instead of overpowering the wearer with heavy handed florals, instead you seem to float in sun drenched flowers dancing in a sun-kissed breeze.

From the Zoologist Perfumes website:

Madagascar, home to half of the world’s species of chameleons, holds the key to Zoologist Chameleon. Like the kaleidoscope of hues that swirl within the flesh of these exotic creatures, ylang dances with delicate frangipani upon your skin in a melody of creamy florals, while aphrodisiac vanilla blends with salty, silky musks to envelop you in the fruity, exotic atmosphere of the island. Whether you desire to shroud yourself in an air of mystery, or blatantly flaunt your true colours, Chameleon becomes you.

Top Notes:  Bergamot, Lemon, Madagascar Ylang Ylang, Mango, Pink Pepper, Star Fruit, Violet Leaves
Heart Notes:  Cashmeran, Clove, Coconut, Frangipani, Jasmine, Saffron, Salty Skin Accord, Sea Breeze
Base Notes:  Amber, Woods, Musks, Opoponax, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   Vintage tropical florals.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHAMELEON:  colorful, calming, sunny

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHAMELEON:  Ventvenir, Colognoisseur, Nose Dives

BOTTOM LINE:  This is my kind of tropical perfume.  It all about being “not too.”  That means it’s balanced perfectly and it’s perfectly modern with a vintage bend.  Chameleon is summer fun….but of course, “not too” much fun!

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Nose:  Daniel Pescio
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $145 for 60 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.

 


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L’Adoné Parfums ELENYA gold

WHAT I SMELL:  ELENYA gold opens with a soft, smooth, rich and opulent bergamot combined with a subdued but very creamy black orchid.  A perfectly subtle cardamom joins the bergamot and black orchid helping to even out the citrus and floral to make a beautifully flattened, but rounded presence.  The perfume at this time is weighty without being heavy and is exotic in a very controlled manner.  In addition, there are no sharp edges as the perfume takes it time in developing which makes the perfume feel that more substantive.  After some time, the black orchid peeks his head out again along with the most creamy of unsweetened coconut.  After some more time, a light sandalwood begins to buzz underneath the creaminess.  A little sour, but just perfectly so, the sandalwood brings the right amount of depth to the perfume along with a woody vetiver.  For me, ELENYA gold is hard to pin down because its overall mix of notes makes for a very smooth, almost custard-like perfume…it’s easy, yet grand.

From the L’Adoné website:

Symbolically, gold represents only the best. This precious metal has been the chosen metal of gods and kings since early times.The fragrance ELENYA gold signifying shining light, delivers light, the warmth of the sun, and Beauty. ELENYA gold is an oriental floral composition that opens with notes of Black Orchid and Sicilian Bergamot. White Lemon Blossoms and a drop of Cardamon accompany this combination accented by notes of Sandalwood and Coconut, embedded in precious Iris Blossom, rounded and deepened by Vetiver.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Gold leaf.  When applied to the skin, the most razor thin coating of luxury is now yours to wear.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ELENYA GOLD: smooth, creamy, easy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ELENYA GOLD:  No reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  ELENYA gold shimmers in just the right way.  It’s a perfume that shines without being ostentatious or over the top.  Instead, it’s subdued luxury that’s perfect for everyday wearing.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Nose:  Andreas Wilhelm
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  Approximately $280 for 50 ml parfum extrait.


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Crépuscule Des Âmes by Atelier Des Ors

WHAT I SMELL:  Crépuscule Des Âmes greets the skin with a warm and sparkling opening which quickly moves to the more herbal.  The perfume is lightly spiced and incredibly inviting.  As the perfume develops, it starts to take on a urinous note which turns the perfume from comforting to intriguing and lightly naughty.  Underneath the naughtiness is just a shimmer of sweet that keeps the perfume in the perfect place.  Eventually a light incense weaves its way in to add another dimension of mystery.  After some more time, a wonderful patchouli helps to once again draw out the lightly sweet.  Here the perfume perfectly resides…comfortable enough to wear on many occasions, but interesting enough to make it just that more exciting to wear.  Crépuscule Des Âmes is not a powerhouse, but it’s not shy either.  Instead, it’s a perfume that is distinct enough to draw others in wondering where the exotic elixir is coming from.

Crépuscule Des Âmes Notes:  Mandarin, cardamom, clary sage, hysope, incense, pimento berries, hyraceum, patchouli

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A 1950’s mink stole.  Lightly warmed…perfect for the cool of the evening.*

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CRÉPUSCALE DES ÂMES:  naughty, intriguing, retro-modern

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CRÉPUSCALE DES ÂMES:  Colognoisseur, The Plum Girl, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:   There is something very chic about Crépuscule Des Âmes.  It’s a modern twist on a classic base.  Very wearable, the perfume is lovely with just the right amount of naughtiness.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Aromatic
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $225 for 100ml eau de parfum

* The Scented Hound does not endorse the use of fur for fashion.