The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Atelier des Ors Iris Fauve

WHAT I SMELL:  Iris Fauve glides on the skin with a smooth and silky bergamot that is quickly met with a cashmere and rather putty like iris.  The perfume is creamy, weighted and it feels like “waving in the wind” silk gliding across the skin.  There’s an interesting cinnamon note that provides just a hint of sparkling sweetness; it’s a really nice touch that gives it a special brightness that rides on top of the silkiness. After a bit, that cinnamon note begins to retreat and the perfume begins to flatten, but with a deep and rounded consistency.  This perfume is pretty without being too feminine.  Instead, there’s a wonderful masculine edge, most likely coming from the labdanum, that provides this unexpected beefiness for an iris perfume.  As the perfume continues to develop the cinnamon seems to come forward once again, along with a mysterious myrhh.  Iris Fauve is beautifully bewitching.

Top notes are bergamot, cinnamon and iris; middle notes are patchouli, haitian vetiver and cypriol oil or nagarmotha; base notes are myrrh, musk, labdanum and liatris.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Trading on the Silk Road.  The combination of exotic flowers and spices make for a mysterious and exotic perfume.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE IRIS FAUVE: enchanting, fluid, enticing

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT IRIS FAUVE: CaFleureBon, Kafkasesque, AustralianPerfumeJunkies

BOTTOM LINE:  Iris Fauve is an iris perfume that’s not cool to the touch.  Instead, it’s a beautiful, spicy and exotic presentation of iris that feels modern, yet which stems from the old world.  And who can resist those bottles and the gold flakes?  Heaven.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental
  • Nose: Marie Salamagne
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $275 for 100 ml eau de parfum


6 Comments

Gothic Angel by O’Driu

gothic-angelWHAT I SMELL: Gothic Angel opens like an angel with a fleeting mimosa riding on a soft bed of lavender in a manner that’s ever so subtle and contained.  Quickly, the perfume begins to move towards the medicinal with a semi Band-Aid smell which makes the perfume feel a bit antiseptic.  However, that Band-Aid smell is rather comforting…at least to me. After a bit more, a light wood covered in incense begins to appear.  Again, the perfume is very subtle, the kind of perfume in which you smell something, but you’re not sure where it’s coming from.  As the perfume continues to develop, a sweetened floral appears that’s enclosed in decay.  At this point the perfume feels old, like a building that’s been sitting untouched for years.  That’s not a bad thing, as it feels like it contains a story that’s been long forgotten.  As Gothic Angel continues it drydown, there’s a subtle oil or petroleum edge that appears which adds to the decay.  After some length of time, the decay makes way for a brighter and lighter component as the perfume begins to dry and powder which makes the perfume comforting.  In the end, Gothic Angel becomes a complete angel as it becomes a soft floral and musk perfume set on top of an understated sandalwood and incense.

The fragrance features mimosa, ylang-ylang, jasmine, violet, rose, lavender, wormwood, sandalwood, musk, incense, olibanum, tobacco, grapefruit, cassis, amber and vanilla.

apparitionWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  An apparition.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE GOTHIC ANGEL: storied, obscure, mystical

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GOTHIC ANGEL:  None to be found.

BOTTOM LINE:  Gothic Angel is my introduction into the O’Driu perfume line.  Unlike the well-known Peety, this perfume, released earlier this year, is a bit unknown, but is an interesting step into the collection.  I’m looking forward to testing more from the quirky perfume house which I have no doubt will take me on an interesting ride.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent Oriental
  • Nose: Angelo Orazio Pregoni
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $165 for 50 ml eau de parfum

Sample provided by O’Driu.  Opinion my own.


16 Comments

New Release: Baptême du feu by Serge Lutens

bapteme-du-feu

WHAT I SMELL:  Wow…Baptême du feu has a wonderful opening that’s cool to the touch, incredibly juicy and vibrant with a blast of bright citrus and bergamot.  The perfume begins to warm quickly and the juiciness subsides to reveal a ripened osmanthus along with an orange rind like sourness.  After 10 minutes or so, a ginger note begins to surface along with a wafting incense.  What was joyous and bright has moved to a mysterious tonality.  The perfume then takes another turn and the incense disappears and the perfume become fully ginger…and it grows exponentially in projection.  But of course, Uncle Serge needs to contradict my words and once again, a wafting incense reveals itself.  The ginger makes the perfume a little sweet, but not too much as there’s a light herbal base that resides under the candied root.  After an hour, the perfume begins to dust and powder with a metallic edge as the candied aspects are lessened.  In the end you’re left with a woody powdered ginger dustiness.

From the Serge Lutens website:

My emotions are fluid. Like liquid wax poured into a mould, they determine what seduces me—like this gingerbread heart. – Serge Lutens

The fragrance features gingerbread, powdery notes, tangerine, castoreum, osmanthus and woody notes.

Pippi-Longstocking-Inger-NilssonWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Pippi Longstocking…it starts off bright, juicy and full of candied ginger…but as it wears it loses its initial gloss and becomes rather tiresome.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BAPTÊME DU FEU: semi-sweet, pleasant, semi-interesting

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BAPTÊME DU FEU:  Persolaise, Kafkaesque, Perfume Posse

BOTTOM LINE:  For the first 45 minutes of wear, I loved this perfume as its full of life and absolutely delightful.  After that, its pleasant enough. Ho-hum.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $150 for 50 ml eau de parfum