The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


New Release: Arielle Shoshana Eau de Parfum

What’s the next thing you do after you’ve opened the first perfume shop dedicated to niche perfumery in the Washington DC area?  Well, if you’re the petite dynamo, Ari Weinberg, proprieter of Arielle Shoshana, you team up with perfumer Cécile Hua to create your very own branded perfume.

WHAT I SMELL:  Arielle Shoshana opens with a blend of zesty, fresh grapefruit and ripe passion fruit.   It’s citrusy (is that a word??), completely refreshing and applying it gives you the sensation as if you sprayed the most delightful summer cocktail on your skin.  After a bit, the initial zing of the perfume settles down, but the tangy and slightly sour fruity and citrus aspects still remain, as if the sun has evaporated the cool juice off of your skin.  At the same time, a very interesting cardamon note lurks underneath, giving it a more mysterious feel…almost as if the tangy and juicy passion fruit holds a bit of poison.  A dulled rhubarb note then arrives along with a slight soured sandalwood which gives the perfume a dimension of carnality.  In the end, the perfume quiets, but leaves and indelible wake of fruited passion.

From the Arielle Shoshana website:

Perfumer Cécile Hua used a proprietary CO2 extraction technique to create the first natural passion fruit extract in perfumery history. Cécile’s gorgeous passion fruit material was already practically a perfume in itself, but the unexpected tang of saffron elevates Arielle Shoshana Eau de Parfum into a fragrance worthy of the Arielle Shoshana mission statement: “fragrances as interesting as you are.” Sandalwood, ambroxan, and vanilla give the drydown fullness and warmth. 

Notes: Passion Fruit, Grapefruit, Rhubarb, Mandarin, Peach, Saffron, Pink Pepper, Cardamom, Magnolia, Sandalwood, Ambroxan, Vanilla, Vetiver Bourbon, Iris, Musk

Forbidden Fruit Dinner Party by Chris Antemann

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Forbidden fruit.



BOTTOM LINE:  Ari and Cécile have created a wonderful perfume as an initial launch for this brand.  It’s the perfect antidote for the hot summer months.  And even better, the perfume could have been a simple take on citrus and passion fruit, but instead there’s an added depth making it more interesting than a summer splash.  I have no doubt that this will be the debut perfume in the Arielle Shoshana line….with, many, many more to come.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Fruity
  • Nose: Cécile Hua
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $125 for 3.4 oz. eau de parfum via Arielle Shoshana.


New Release – Tauerville Fruitchouli Flash

Fruitchouli-Flash-30mlWHAT I SMELL:  Fruitchouli Flash does open with a flash…a flash of warm, peach, apricot and ripe fruit, topped with a nutty, rather carameled syrup.  It is rich, thick, heavy and interestingly burnt.  The perfume smells like a fruit and nut topping that you would put on an ice cream sundae.  After around five minutes, the syrupy thickness gives way, but the fruity sweetness begins to really grow and project.  At this point it’s hard to tell where the fruity ends and the patchouli begins as this is just, sweet upon sweet.  After some more time, the fruity turns to floral.  Though still sweet, it now feels like a bit of caramel has covered a bouquet of flowers vs. a fruit compote.  As the perfume continues to develop, the sweets adds an undercurrent of creaminess and the perfume becomes smoother.  After quite some time, the perfume begins to pull considerably back with the sweetness and the woody patchouli seems to air the perfume out.  In the end, the fruity floral sweetness is still there, but it thankfully recedes to softer level.

Fragrance Notes:

Apricot, Peach, Rose, White Flowers, Musk, Patchouli

Lydia Bright - 1mb.jpg

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A deluge of sweet caramelized fruity cream.



BOTTOM LINE:  I just dabbed on the smallest amount on my wrist and I think the sweetness travelled up to my mouth and I’m about to lose a couple of teeth.  You really have to love sweet perfumes to like Fruitchouli Flash.  It makes me feel like I just left the ice cream parlor and that sticky sweet bright atmosphere is still stuck to my skin.

  • Bone Rating:  2 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral Fruity
  • Nose: Andy Tauer
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: The price is very right at $63 for 30 ml eau de parfum.


New Release: Commes des Garcons Dot

comme-des-garcons-dot-perfume-1WHAT I SMELL:  Dot opens with a juicy, fruity and tangy orange that’s fresh, but quickly moves toward a flattened and slightly bitter orange.  The perfume feels voluminous in so that when you take a breath of it in, it fills your lungs with an expanse of air and there’s a layer of musk that seems to be painted on to a soft osmanthus.  To me, Dot feels incredibly manufactured as there is nothing remotely natural about the perfume.  But that’s not a bad thing because the perfume has this otherworldly freshness about it.  The soft florals have a slight vegetal tinge rather similar to a carrot leaf.   As the perfume develops, the fragrance doesn’t morph all that much, but it does seem to grow in projection.  In the end, Dot is all about the osmanthus.  It’s soft and lightly fruited, but here it’s topped off with a little powder that feels like it’s sitting on a warmed cotton ball.

Notes:  Leafy Greeness, Bitter Orange, Pepper, Osmanthus Absolute, Olibanum, White Amber Woods

Rabbits&CarrotsWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Maybe partly because it’s getting close to Easter, but this reminds me of a carrot eating fluffy rabbit.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE DOT: sunny, easy, effortless

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DOT:  No reviews found, besides comments found on Fragrantica.

BOTTOM LINE:  Dot is a feel good perfume that radiates an uncomplicated positive energy.  I like that!

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral Fruity
  • Nose: Lucas Sieuzak
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $130 for 100 ml Eau de Parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.  Opinion my own.