The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Jivago 24K

24KWHAT I SMELL:  24K opens with a warm, soft and tender rose that moves towards a lightly spiced tuberose and jasmine.  The perfume buzzes with muted ambered florals that seems to become warmer on the skin with each inviting inhale.  As the perfume continues to develop, it becomes more rounded and the florals seamlessly meld into one beautiful fragrant bouquet.  At this point the perfume slows it’s progression and it radiates floral energy with a warmth and pulsing force that’s completely mesmerizing. There’s something nostalgic about 24K that takes me back to a bygone era of the 1980s and 1990s.  But don’t get me wrong, the perfume doesn’t feel vintage or old fashioned in the least.  In fact, it makes me yearn for some of those forgotten floral beauties of the past that you couldn’t help but notice.

From the Jivago website:

24K for Women is a sensuous floral composition created from some of the finest ingredients in the perfumers palette: Bulgarian Rose which induces thoughts of loving affection; Jasmine Sambac which has been prized forever worn for blessings, protection, and good luck; Tuberose Absolute which is both calming and spiritually stimulating.

The scent is elegant, weaving a tale of opulence and tasteful desire. Our most successful release to date, this award-winning fragrance became an instant best-seller and has been recognized for its iconic status in perfumery.

Understated but undeniably luxurious: this is the scent for woman of worth, grace, and poise – but also of great warmth… a timeless classic beauty.

DynastyWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  “Dynasty-lite”.  The perfume carries all the quintessential aspects of the 1980s; big, bold, large and in command.  But instead of being over-the-top and in your face, 24K remains perfectly muted.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE 24Kwarm, sophisticated, beautifully-confident

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT 24K:  No reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  I used to live in the Washington DC area and went to many concerts and plays at the iconic Kennedy Center.  At some of these events, I would at times be entranced by a woman’s perfume that would envelope me.  I would find myself so mesmerized by these wonderfully elegant perfumes that seemed to be designed just for these evenings on the town, that I would lose myself in the perfume rather than in the event itself.  24K is one of those perfumes. 

It should be noted that 24K comes complete with flakes of gold floating in the perfume as well as an iceberg stand that holds the bottle.  Wonderful in every regard.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Classification:  Leans feminine
  • Expense:  Review is based on the $145 eau de toilette version.  Also available in eau de parfum for $175.  
  • Special Offer:  Thanks to Jivago, you can receive 10% off your purchase of 24K using the code:  STEVE10.  Offer valid exclusively on the Jivago website.

*Sample provided by Jivago.  Opinion my own.


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OroNardo by Xinú

WHAT I SMELL:  OroNardo’s opening is heavenly with creamy buttery lightly spiced tuberose that sparkles and buzzes with just the lightest of earthiness brushed with orange blossom.  The warmed perfume wafts and dances like sun-kissed florals in the Mexican summer breeze.  A greenish stem comes forward taking the perfume from the garden to the most luscious of bouquets.  This is tuberose that’s not heavy nor overbearing, but tuberose that’s fresh and lightly dewy and which is very much alive.  As the perfume continues to develop, the florals become lighter and rise into a heavenly aura.  Here the perfume resides in a true essence of floral harmony wrapped up in the lightest of powder.  Breathtaking.


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Vintage Shopping: Hermès Calèche and the Guerlain Mystery Perfume

I love shopping for vintage perfumes.  I mean, physically going to antique stores and estate sales to find those hidden gems.  One of the down sides of living in Mexico is that there are neither.  Yes, once in a while I can find a vintage perfume online, but it’s not quite the same of the rush of finding a treasure hidden in some dark cabinet in the back of a store.

We recently went back to the US to the outskirts of Seattle, Washington.  We love Mexico, but getting away from the heat every once in a while is essential and that part of the country is incredibly beautiful and the weather this time of the year is perfect.  But one of the best things about going back to the US, even in this time of COVID, is the ability to go shopping for vintage perfume.  What a treat!

Of course, these days, not all of the antique stores were open.  And in the ones that were, the the pickings were rather slim , unless you were looking for the random celebrity perfume.  But I did manage to find a bottle of 1980’s Hermès Calèche Eau de Toilette.  The perfume was used, came in a weathered box and was not the greatest bargain.  Even with given all of that, of course I had to purchase the perfume!

WHAT I SMELL:  Calèche opens with bright aldehydes, mixed with the lightest of soap tinged soft and tender florals.  Quickly, a light oakmoss begins to appear from below and the perfume becomes a bit more muted with a cottony finish.  In short time, the florals, now warmer, come forward with a richness and radiance that is pure luxury.  And as the perfume continues to settle, a light leather pins itself under the dusty florals.  Calèche is never heavy, nor sweet, but is an understated confident beauty that radiates a elegant aura.

From the Hermes website:

Written in 1961 by Guy Robert, Calèche was Hermès’ first fragrance for women. A highly feminine, woody, chypre floral, its name refers to the horse-drawn carriages that are emblematic of the house. Calèche is a novel that dazzles with the beauty of its raw materials, from the joyfulness of citrus fruit to the modernity of aldehyde notes; from the floral heart embellished with ylang-ylang, rose and jasmine to the woody, chypre sillage underscored by the nobility of the iris.

Jane Fonda

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  1970’s sophistication.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CALÈCHE:  dusty, easy, tailored

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CALÈCHEThe Black Narcissus, Yesterday’s Perfume, The Vintage Perfume Vault

BOTTOM LINE:  I have no regrets with my purchase and surprisingly it seems that the top notes have held up better than I had anticipated.  Calèche is a beauty that is easy to wear and thankfully perfect for the hot Mexican weather as the sun and heat make it bloom without being too heavy.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Aldehyde
  • Nose: Guy Robert
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: Prices for vintage vary.  Review based on the eau de toilette version.

EPILOGUE:  When I transport vintage and used perfumes in my luggage, I typically use Parafilm to ensure that the perfumes don’t leak.  If you haven’t heard of Parafilm, I suggest you read the wise words of Undina who has helped me save many a perfume throughout the years.  However, this time, even though I carried Parafilm with me, I failed to use it and the bottle leaked.  I didn’t lose a great amount of perfume, but just enough to ruin the already tattered box as well as to rub the finish off the perfume’s cap.  Of course, this does nothing to take away the beauty of the perfume…but I, like most other perfumistas, would rather have a pristine bottle sitting on my shelf.  Lesson learned!

The damaged Calèche and the Guerlain Mystery Perfume.

VINTAGE GUERLAIN MYSTERY PERFUME

When I travel to the US to visit friends, I typically will purchase a few items on eBay before I go, just because I can’t do it here in Mexico.  Prior to going to the US this time, I noted that there was a 100 ml vintage Guerlain cologne bottle for sale at a very low cost.  The bottle had no label on the front and no label on the bottom.  On the plus side the perfume was sealed.  And I should say that I love Guerlain colognes as they’re perfect for the Mexican heat.  So, for a mere $35, I purchased the perfume.  So what was in the mystery bottle?  Or was it just a factice?

The mystery perfume turned out to be Shalimar.  The really wasn’t a surprise as it seems to be the most widely available vintage Guerlain cologne on eBay.  I have no complaints as the bottle is in great shape and the perfume smells fabulous.   For $35 would you have purchased the perfume even without a label?  As for me, I would do it again in a heartbeat.