The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Heretic Parfums Jasmine Smoke & Pistil Whip

Today I’m reviewing two perfumes…once you read the reviews you’ll see why.

JASMINE SMOKE – WHAT I SMELL:  Jasmine Smoke has a very different creamy, putty like bergamot and jasmine opening.  It’s strange, but interesting, as it smells rather like a bandaid which is actually quite comforting because it’s a smell that reminds me of my childhood.  Soon the bandaid putty begins to fade, but the creamy jasmine remains, although it does seem to fade a bit from my skin.  There’s a sweetness to the jasmine that although not thick, is quite narcotic.  The perfume doesn’t develop all that much, but what does come to play is a translucent incensed tobacco that seems to lightly waft over the jasmine.  Overall, Jasmine Smoke is pretty, but not too pretty.

From the Heretic website:

My home in Los Angeles had a dividing wall covered in pink jasmine. When in bloom, the abundance of flowers produced an overwhelming fragrance that could be smelled from hundreds of feet in every direction. One evening I had a group of friends over, and some were smoking near the jasmine. The combination of smoldering tobacco mixed with the sweet, heady jasmine had me spellbound, inspiring this fragrance.

From the top you get crisp and citrusy bergamot combined with spicy, woody coriander. At its heart lies calm yet seductive jasmine absolute, and the base is a marriage of silky tonka bean, leathery blonde tobacco and singed choya ral.

Top: bergamot, coriander
Middle: jasmine absolute
Base: tonka bean, blonde tobacco, choya ral

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A pink bandaid.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE JASMINE SMOKE:  soft, modern, puttied

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT JASMINE SMOKE:  No reviews found.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Douglas Little
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $165 for 50 ml eau de parfum

PISTIL WHIP – WHAT I SMELL:   Pistil Whip has a delightful opening of a tingly barber shop sweetened peppered bergamot that’s slightly mentholated.  It’s rather like a rub that you would put on your chest when you have a cold, but not nearly at the same intensity of Vick’s Vapo Rub.  For some reason the perfume feels rather industrial to me and though slightly warm, there’s a starkness to the perfume that feels like it was conceived in a large warehouse (don’t ask me why).  Pistil Whip beings to soften after a few minutes as the mentholated aspect starts to dissipate as a light, muted and slightly smoky tuberose begins to lighten the perfume.  The tuberose is like cotton candy in that it’s a bit fuzzy and creamy and lightly spun in texture.  And here the perfume stays.  I wish I could say that it develops more…but unfortunately it does not.

From the Heretic website:

Late one night, i was walking from the subway to my studio in Brooklyn and was mugged at gun point. After surrendering my wallet I was pistol-whipped and left in a heap. After recovering from this traumatizing incident I experienced something called an olfactory hallucination and for weeks after the event woke up to the smell of tuberose and gardenia, but the flowers were nowhere to be found.

After seeing a few doctors I learned that traumatic events, especially physical ones, can trigger scent-based hallucinations. It eventually went away but the experience stuck with me and became the inspiration for this scent. A play on words, Pistil Whip is an explosion of lush florals that collapse into peppery smoke and mysterious notes of black tea. The top of the fragrance is a spicy combination of pink pepper and ripe bergamot. At its heart lie tuberose absolute, carnation absolute and tiarre flower. And the base is rooted in deep, grassy vetiver and the smoky finish of lapsang souchong absolute.

Top: pink pepper, bergamot
Middle: tuberose, carnation absolute, tiarre
Base: vetiver, lapsang souchong absolute

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Pink haze.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PISTIL WHIP:  soft, lightly sweet, quiet

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PISTIL WHIP:  No reviews found.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Douglas Little
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $165 for 50 ml eau de parfum

BOTTOM LINE:  I first tested Pistil Whip thinking that the combination of florals would be just the kind of perfume that would send me over the moon…unfortunately, I found it “nice,” but that’s not necessarily a plus in a perfume.  So on I went to Jasmine Smoke thinking that this combination of white florals and smoke and tobacco would win me over.  Again, I found the perfume to be just “nice.”  With the brand name Heretic, I was expecting something that would be really avant-garde or over the top.  Instead, these perfumes are really safe and rather thin overall.  So why a 3 for a rating?  These weren’t scrubbers and are easily wearable…but to me they’re just not that exciting and they don’t beckon to me as something that needs to be worn.  It should be noted that Pistil Whip was nominated in 2017 by the Fragrance Foundation as one of the top 5 perfumes extraordinaire.  So check these out for yourself…maybe it’s just me!


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Ormonde Jayne Tiare

WHAT I SMELL:   What a lovely way to start off the new year.  Tiare’s opening is wonderfully fresh with a luminescent orange met with a gorgeous and slightly sour orange blossom.  The perfume is citrus at first, but soon the rush of flowers come sweeping forward.  These flowers shine bright and sing in the softest way with ladylike joy wrapped in serenity.  The perfume is based on the tiare flower, but to me, the tiare does not stand out amongst the other floral in the composition.  Instead, the ylang-ylang is slightly more pronounced, but that’s ok because overall the perfume is divine.  A very light soapy note brushes the flowers, but not in a way to make the perfume soapy.  After quite some time, a mossy cedar note enters, giving a light dimension like that of pencil shavings and it’s the perfect base for the innocence of the flowers.  As the perfume settles, it retains this ethereal beauty that seems to dance upon the skin.  Tiare is not harsh, loud, nor groundbreakingly different.  What it is however, is beyond beautiful…a classic stunner.

From the Ormonde Jayne website:

Like precious jewels resting on dark green foliage, the unsurpassed beauty of the Tiare flower is hand-picked whilst still unopened and laid in oil for 15 days to extract the fragrance. Like the woman who wears Tiare, this is a perfume that totally ignores seasons and the time of day, a perfume so artfully blended and infinitely refined… but with a dash of scintillating appeal.

Top: Mandarin, Orange Flower and Sicilian Lime
Heart: Tiare, Freesia, Water Lilies, Jasmine, Orris and Ylang
Base: Cedar, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Moss and Musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Feminine white.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE TIARE:  lyrical, serene, bewitching

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT TIARE:  Bois de Jasmin, Perfume Shrine, Fragrance Bouquet

BOTTOM LINE:  I’m a bit behind on my introduction to the Ormonde Jayne line of perfumes, but late is never too late to experience wonderful.  In fact, there are a few in the line that sing to me just as much as Tiare, which may just end up as part of my private collection.  I love beautiful, classic perfumes that elevate your mood to a special place; Tiare does just that and I’m in love.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Geza Schoen
  • Classification: Lean’s feminine but a man could wear it.
  • Expense:  $150 for 50 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.


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New Release: Puredistance Warszawa & Sample Draw

WHAT I SMELL:   Warszawa has a surprising opening with a sweetened violet that has a candied coating, which smells very similar to Valentine candy hearts (the kind with sayings on them).  That sweet opening calms considerably in a few minutes letting in a fresh, yet restrained grapefruit note.  What seemed not so subtle at the initial spritz becomes very subtle in a short matter of time.   After the initial violet and grapefruit impressions, the perfume becomes seamless as individual notes blend without distinction.  Instead, the perfume moves to a sweet and tarty and lightly soured persona.  The perfume is sweet without being overtly so and the tartness when breathed in, seems to pull the air out to constrict your nostrils.  In addition, a light spice peppers the top of the perfume.  In a way, it feels rather like an exotic confectionary treat.  After 15 minutes or so, a light powder begins to dust the perfume and it now feels very bright and feminine while at the same time warm and inviting.  Warszawa unfolds like a day’s journey; the perfume starts bright and sweet like the dawn of a new day.  As the day wears on, the spice of the florals add life and energy and then finally, the perfume provides a finishing crescendo as if entering the grand ball at the end of the evening.  This is where the perfume settles into its final incarnation; a beauty that is unique as the noble city that bears its name.

From the Puredistance website:

Inspired by the class and elegance of Polish women and the rich history of the city of Warsaw, WARSZAWA evokes the chic of the golden days of Fashion and Perfume. This perfume has style, warmth – great depth of character – and will make you feel beautiful in a lush way. It will transport you to another world, a dreamy world, where you will feel elated and dizzy – in a good way.

Notes:  Galbanum, Grapefruit, Violet leaf, Jasmin Absolute, Broom absolute, Orris butter, Patchouli, Vetiver and Styrax.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Pastel flowers – soft and muted, very feminine, very retro

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE WARSZAWA:  semi-sweet, semi-tart, classic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT WARSZAWA:  Odiferess, Parfumistans Blogg, Perfume Posse

BOTTOM LINE:  The first time I put on Warszawa, I wondered if this would be the one Puredistance perfume that wouldn’t be a love for me.  The sweetened opening was rather a surprise, but after the perfume began to emerge with its softer and more powdery edge I knew I was hooked.   Warszawa isn’t an all-occasion everyday perfume.  Instead, it’s a perfume you wear when you feel the need to be “grand.”

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Antoine Lie
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense:  295 Euros for 60 ml parfum extrait.  Also available in 100 ml.

DRAW:  The Puredistance team is graciously offering a 2 ml sample to three lucky Scented Hound readers.  This draw is open to all readers worldwide.  To enter, please complete the following:

  1. “Like” the Puredistance Facebook Page
  2. Enter a comment on this post as to why you would like to experience Warszawa or comment on your favorite Puredistance perfume.

To be included in the draw, the above two requirements must be completed by midnight Eastern Standard Time on November 11, 2017.  Three winners will be chosen at random and announced the week starting on November 12, 2017.  Good luck!