The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Bois 1920 Sushi Imperiale

WHAT I SMELL:  Sushi Imperiale’s opening is decidedly not sushi like as it opens with a warm crunchy bergamot and sugared orange.  The perfume is sweet, but not sugary sweet; instead its sweetened naturally as if it’s tinged with brown sugar.  Soon enough, the natural sweetness begins to give way for a more flattened floral spice.  The perfume is slightly gourmand, but that quickly moves away and the perfume begins to unleash a warm, shimmering radiance and a lovely warmed sandalwood comes to the forefront.  At this point, Sushi Imperiale becomes enveloping and rapturous…the base notes are a light blanket of comfort that don’t weigh down the perfume, but instead add just the right amount of security.  After this, Sushi Imperiale doesn’t transform much, except when it finally settles in with light and soft patchouli that feels tufted with light cotton.  In other words, it’s comforting and reassuring.

From Bois 1920:

An intense beginning where the citrus notes blend harmoniously for an eau de toilette that speaks of love.  The heart releases its spicy personality:  the vibrant and exotic luminosity of Pepper, Nutmeg and Cinnamon.  The fragrance develops into a brilliant and almost nonchalant wisp of woods and Vanilla of Madagascar.

Top notes are bergamot, mandarin orange and lemon; middle notes are pepper, nutmeg, jasmine, rose, star anise and cinnamon; base notes are sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, tonka bean and madagascar vanilla.

Italian Crown Prince Umberto II

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  To me this is less “sushi” imperial, but it is indeed more italian imperial, meaning that the perfume is fit for a prince.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SUSHI IMPERIALE:  shimmering, comforting, contented

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SUSHI IMPERIALE: AustralianPerfumeJunkies, EauMG, Kafkaesque

BOTTOM LINE: Sushi Imperiale is a wonderfully wearable and elegant perfume that has surprising projection and longevity and is rather beefy for an eau de toilette.  This is a perfume that is perfectly elegant without being snobbish.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Spicy
  • Nose: Enzo Galardi
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Approximately $140 for 50 ml EdT


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Les Exclusifs de Chanel Gardénia

chanel-gardeniaI am lamenting the fact that it’s now September which means that summer’s glow will now start turning towards the fall and the cooler weather.  I have to admit that I am more of a summer perfume person…I will happily take florals and light and breezy citrus fragrances over the ambers and vanilla perfumes that are more suited to the cool weather.  Today it was nice and sunny out and a bit cooler than it has been, which meant that it was time to do some cleanup in the yard…and the perfect perfume for tackling this chore was Chanel Gardénia.  Yes, I’ll admit to wearing perfume to work in the yard!

WHAT I SMELL:  Gardénia hits the skin with bright aldehydes that are quickly met with a smooth green lushness and radiant white florals.  The perfume is so creamy and full of life and full of unending joy. Gardénia can’t help but lift your spirits when you put it on.  The gardenia, formed with the roundest of tuberose, sparkles as if the dew is bouncing off of the waxy white pedals of the flowers.  As it develops, the perfume begins to dry out and a woody base that’s warm and radiant begins to hover underneath the white flowers and I find it now to be incredibly pretty without being overly feminine.  As it continues to develop, Gardénia really begins to sweeten… but I’ve noticed that how sweet the perfume becomes depends on the temperature, humidity, etc.  In the summer, this sweetness melds wonderfully with the moist air, but in the winter it could easily become cloying.  Overall, Gardénia hits the spot for raising my happy quotient and I like that.

From the Chanel website:

Mademoiselle Chanel liked white flowers, so well-defined, so sensual…and yet her emblem, the Camellia, has no scent. But the Gardenia, which it so closely resembles, fills the air with fragrance. Gabrielle Chanel and Ernest Beaux evoked this flower magnificently: its green notes, its creamy heart, and a trail full of fantasy.

Sunny 60s

Sue Lyon post Lolita

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Simply ’60s – the traditional years that were easy, simple, uncomplicated and a bit square.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE GARDÉNIA:  pretty, joyful, easy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GARDÉNIA:  Bois de Jasmin, Olfactoria’s Travels, The Non-Blonde

BOTTOM LINE:  Gardénia doesn’t get the love or respect that other Chanel Les Exclusifs do, and I understand that.  Gardénia is a rather safe and unpretentious perfume…but when I wear it, I wear it solely for myself and no others.  I just wish the longevity of the perfume was a bit better…as it is, I am doing a lot of spritzing throughout the day…but I’m fine with that too!

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: $160 for 2.5 oz eau de toilette.  Also available in parfum extrait.


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Les Exclusifs de Chanel Beige

ChanelBeigeWHAT I SMELL: Beige opens with bright aldehydes and then quickly moves to a soft, cottony mix of delicate flowers.  The perfume is incredibly demure and unassuming and the freesia and frangipani are wonderfully muted.  I often wondered if I could ever like a perfume that held frangipani…I think I finally found “the one.”  The perfume doesn’t transform much, but instead, feels as if a ray of sunshine has warmed the perfume and made it grow oh so slightly.   There’s a lovely combination of warmth and coolness at play; it feels tinged with sunshine, but there’s a cool breeze that provides for an underlay.  After around 10 minutes, the perfume begins to dry and the perfume begins to powder.  At this point, it feels like a light layer of talcum is covering your skin.  The florals also begin to retain a woody texture, rather like a light balsa wood.  After around 20 minutes, the perfume takes on a delicate sweetness of honey.  It’s just the right amount of light sugar to make the perfume sparkle.  Who knew beige could be so beautiful?

From the Chanel website:

“I take refuge in beige because it’s natural,” said Mademoiselle Chanel. An elusive colour with infinite variations, beige may seem quite ordinary. And yet, behind this apparent simplicity, it hides a discreet sensuality that builds slowly before revealing itself fully. This sensual outburst is interpreted by Jacques Polge through a bouquet of Hawthorn, Freesia and Frangipani, with shimmering hints of honey. A stunning blend of white petals and yellow gold…in other words, a breath of beige.

7-central-park-the-dakota_650WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Central Park, NYC.  The Upper East side social set meets the tranquility of the park.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BEIGE:  unassuming, elegant, effortless

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BEIGE: Bois de Jasmin, Now Smell This, Perfume Shrine

BOTTOM LINE:  I believe that I have overlooked Beige over the years due to the name.  The name renders thoughts of cardboard boxes and abject nothingness.  Instead, Beige proves to be an uncomplicated, subtle and beautiful understated classic.  I’ll never think of beige as being boring anymore.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Nose: Jacques Polge
  • Classification: Leans feminine, but is rather unisex
  • Expense: $160 for 2.5 oz. Eau de Toilette (review based on the EdT version.  Also available in parfum extrait.)