The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Chanel PARIS-DEAUVILLE

WHAT I SMELL:  PARIS-DEAUVILLE greets the skin with a sun-kissed fresh orange that’s bright, light and juicy.  Rather quickly, the perfume warms to a delightful sunny white floral and a calming freshly cut basil.  The perfume is so fresh, so bright and so happy that it’s an immediate mood lifter.  The perfume doesn’t morph all that much, but it does warm and it radiates this incredible citrus green accord rounded off by a a softened jasmine and rose mix that bounces off of the skin.  In the end, PARIS-DEAUVILLE becomes a muted and slightly soapy version of the opening…a beautiful citrus and basil dream of a perfume tinged with the lightest of soft florals.

From the Chanel website:

THE INSPIRATION:  1913. Gabrielle Chanel opens her very first fashion boutique, choosing Deauville as the location. This destination marks the beginning of a simple, bold style that becomes iconic with the marinière striped shirt and tweed and jersey fabrics. Inspired by the peaceful landscapes along the Normandy coast, PARIS-DEAUVILLE transposes this bucolic charm to a fragrance of the open air.

Pairing the aromatic green facets of Basil with the sparkling top notes of Sicilian Orange, PARIS-DEAUVILLE reveals a lively, naturally radiant freshness.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A young and ever so pretty Cybill Shepherd; full of sunshine and promise.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PARIS-DEAUVILLE:  fresh, uncomplicated, clean

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PARIS-DEAUVILLE:  The Candy Perfume Boy, Colognoisseur, The Scented Salamander

BOTTOM LINE:  Chanel does easy to wear, fresh and clean better than most.  And PARIS-DEAUVILLE, which is part of the Les Eaux de Chanel collection, is just so delightful to wear because it doesn’t wear you.  The perfume is perfect for wearing while running errands as well as when dining out for the evening al fresco.   Thanks Chanel, for making me smell so fantastic and for lifting my spirits while doing so.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre
  • Nose:  Olivier Polge
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: $130 for 4.2 oz eau de toilette


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Bois 1920 Sushi Imperiale

WHAT I SMELL:  Sushi Imperiale’s opening is decidedly not sushi like as it opens with a warm crunchy bergamot and sugared orange.  The perfume is sweet, but not sugary sweet; instead its sweetened naturally as if it’s tinged with brown sugar.  Soon enough, the natural sweetness begins to give way for a more flattened floral spice.  The perfume is slightly gourmand, but that quickly moves away and the perfume begins to unleash a warm, shimmering radiance and a lovely warmed sandalwood comes to the forefront.  At this point, Sushi Imperiale becomes enveloping and rapturous…the base notes are a light blanket of comfort that don’t weigh down the perfume, but instead add just the right amount of security.  After this, Sushi Imperiale doesn’t transform much, except when it finally settles in with light and soft patchouli that feels tufted with light cotton.  In other words, it’s comforting and reassuring.

From Bois 1920:

An intense beginning where the citrus notes blend harmoniously for an eau de toilette that speaks of love.  The heart releases its spicy personality:  the vibrant and exotic luminosity of Pepper, Nutmeg and Cinnamon.  The fragrance develops into a brilliant and almost nonchalant wisp of woods and Vanilla of Madagascar.

Top notes are bergamot, mandarin orange and lemon; middle notes are pepper, nutmeg, jasmine, rose, star anise and cinnamon; base notes are sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, tonka bean and madagascar vanilla.

Italian Crown Prince Umberto II

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  To me this is less “sushi” imperial, but it is indeed more italian imperial, meaning that the perfume is fit for a prince.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SUSHI IMPERIALE:  shimmering, comforting, contented

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SUSHI IMPERIALE: AustralianPerfumeJunkies, EauMG, Kafkaesque

BOTTOM LINE: Sushi Imperiale is a wonderfully wearable and elegant perfume that has surprising projection and longevity and is rather beefy for an eau de toilette.  This is a perfume that is perfectly elegant without being snobbish.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Spicy
  • Nose: Enzo Galardi
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Approximately $140 for 50 ml EdT


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Les Exclusifs de Chanel Gardénia

chanel-gardeniaI am lamenting the fact that it’s now September which means that summer’s glow will now start turning towards the fall and the cooler weather.  I have to admit that I am more of a summer perfume person…I will happily take florals and light and breezy citrus fragrances over the ambers and vanilla perfumes that are more suited to the cool weather.  Today it was nice and sunny out and a bit cooler than it has been, which meant that it was time to do some cleanup in the yard…and the perfect perfume for tackling this chore was Chanel Gardénia.  Yes, I’ll admit to wearing perfume to work in the yard!

WHAT I SMELL:  Gardénia hits the skin with bright aldehydes that are quickly met with a smooth green lushness and radiant white florals.  The perfume is so creamy and full of life and full of unending joy. Gardénia can’t help but lift your spirits when you put it on.  The gardenia, formed with the roundest of tuberose, sparkles as if the dew is bouncing off of the waxy white pedals of the flowers.  As it develops, the perfume begins to dry out and a woody base that’s warm and radiant begins to hover underneath the white flowers and I find it now to be incredibly pretty without being overly feminine.  As it continues to develop, Gardénia really begins to sweeten… but I’ve noticed that how sweet the perfume becomes depends on the temperature, humidity, etc.  In the summer, this sweetness melds wonderfully with the moist air, but in the winter it could easily become cloying.  Overall, Gardénia hits the spot for raising my happy quotient and I like that.

From the Chanel website:

Mademoiselle Chanel liked white flowers, so well-defined, so sensual…and yet her emblem, the Camellia, has no scent. But the Gardenia, which it so closely resembles, fills the air with fragrance. Gabrielle Chanel and Ernest Beaux evoked this flower magnificently: its green notes, its creamy heart, and a trail full of fantasy.

Sunny 60s

Sue Lyon post Lolita

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Simply ’60s – the traditional years that were easy, simple, uncomplicated and a bit square.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE GARDÉNIA:  pretty, joyful, easy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GARDÉNIA:  Bois de Jasmin, Olfactoria’s Travels, The Non-Blonde

BOTTOM LINE:  Gardénia doesn’t get the love or respect that other Chanel Les Exclusifs do, and I understand that.  Gardénia is a rather safe and unpretentious perfume…but when I wear it, I wear it solely for myself and no others.  I just wish the longevity of the perfume was a bit better…as it is, I am doing a lot of spritzing throughout the day…but I’m fine with that too!

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: $160 for 2.5 oz eau de toilette.  Also available in parfum extrait.