The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Adjatay cuir narcotique by The Different Company

adjatayWHAT I SMELL:  This latest release from The Different Company opens with a semi-sweet and creamy orange ylang-ylang that’s lightly leathered and oh so pretty.  The perfume is tinged on the top with a light burnt marshmallow coating that rests very clearly as a puffy cloud on top of the leathered floral.  After a short time, the leather begins to project and bounce off the skin as the emerging tuberose restrains itself allowing for the subtle leather to take the center stage.  But it’s the light and pretty understated tuberose that gives the perfume its pretty personality.  Overall, Adjatay is warm and restrained…it pulls you in without begging you to do so.  As the perfume continues to develop, the tonka and sandalwood deepen the fragrance with a peppered leather that seems to pulsate.  The perfume ends it’s journey with a deep, warm beefy old world leather with the muted florals sweetened by the tonka wrapped up within the walls of the leather hide.

From The Different Company website:

“Tanned, flexible, grain-embossed, full-grain, varnished… I have always loved working on leather notes for their carnal facets and the infinite possibilities they offer. For “ADJATAY, cuir narcotique” I wanted to work on a full, dark and textured leather, a leather that squeaks in your hands, a leather with a debauchery sillage. To obtain these particular effects, I associated dark and spicy notes with Styrax essence, Castoreum essence and Papyrus essential oil. On this leather structure, I dropped off a subversive Tuberose from which narcotic notes get away to engulf the atmosphere. The osmosis between Leather and Tuberose is perfect, neither one gets the upper hand, they are vibrating and matching each other creating a vigorous addiction”  

Perfumer Alexandra Monet

Top notes are ylang-ylang and mandarin orange; middle notes are tuberose, jasmine and heliotrope; base notes are castoreum, styrax, papyrus, tonka bean, sandalwood and musk.

polo1WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The polo club…the smell of worn leather, the dried wood of the stalls and the light sweat produced from playing under the sun while the heated and heady florals on the sidelines invade the field.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ADJATAY: care-worn, unique, confident

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ADJATAY:  Megan in Saint Maxime, BL’eauOGColognoisseur,

BOTTOM LINE: The melding of leather and tuberose in Adjatay is brilliant and could easily be perfect for those who never thought they would like a leather or a tuberose perfume.  Pretty and lightly sweet enough for woman, this works equally as well for a man.  Wear it with your leather jacket and the perfume becomes dangerous…wear it with your tweeds and sweater and it becomes proper.  Overall, it’s like a fine fitting leather pair of gloves that you absolutely love to wear.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Leather
  • Nose: Alexandra Monet
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $195 for 100 ml Eau de Parfum


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New Release: Mandrake by Parfums Quartana

quartanamandrake

Parfums Quartana’s collection of perfumes, Les Potions Fatales explores the treacherous beauty and intriguing lore behind nine of the world’s most poisonous flowers. At once tantalizing and perilous, these mortal fleurs have been used to nefarious ends throughout history. These flowers and the aptly named perfumes are seductive on the outside but are ultimately dark, sinister, and dangerous.   The poison that wooed me and called my name was Mandrake.

WHAT I SMELL:   Mandrake opens with a snappy bergamot which quickly turns to more of a ripened red apple which swiftly moves into a Bazooka bubble gum accord.  But that soon turns to a soft and sweet floral that’s creamy smooth and completely comforting.  The sweetness never hits a high pitch and as it develops it levels itself out, but there’s just enough sparkle to make this really delightful and engaging.  The perfume begins to linger in this lightly sweetened, cotton candy and bubble gum creamed state for quite some time.  That’s not a bad thing and don’t think because it’s has the bubble gum accord that this is for teenagers; it’s not.  After quite some time, a bit of leather appears along with a muted spice and a light incense.  At this point, the perfume is irresistible, sexy and overwhelmingly enticing.  In the end, the perfume melds into a wonderful sweetened patchouli and it reminded me of Dior’s Gris Montaigne…which is a good thing!

From the Parfums Quartana website:

In biblical scripture, mandrake was referred to as ‘the love plant’ and was through to have male fertility enhancing properties; as such it was mentioned by Shakespeare in “Midsummer Night’s Dream” as a cure for erectile dysfunction. Long used in Wiccan ritual, its roots were thought to emit a fatal, supersonic scream when dug up. Because mandrake actually smells of strong red apple, we gave the fragrance a red fruity heart but grounded it with birch leaf and birch root to suggest the roots of the flower dug into the soil. We also gave the fragrance a sharp aromatic note to suggest its infamous, deadly shriek.

Crisp Apple, Pomegranate, Birch Leaf, Birch Root, Bergamot, Mandrake Flower Accord, Rhubarb, Cardamom, Sueded Leather, Deadly Addiction Accord, Patchouli, Madagascar Vanilla, Sandalwood, Tonka

386px-dale_robertson_tales_of_wells_fargo_1957WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Yesteryear cowboy…rather clean cut with just a little rugged and lots of handsome and sexy.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MANDRAKE:  inviting, tempting, satisfying

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MANDRAKE: Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  The full line of the Parfums Quartana Les Potions Fatales perfumes are each interesting in their own way and completely different and varied, from the strange and unique (Bloodflower, Wolfsbane and Midnight Datura) to the more traditional (Hemlock, Lily of the Valley) with Mandrake fitting somewhere in between.  I highly recommend checking them out!

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Leather
  • Nose:  Carlos Vinals
  • Classification: Marketed as masculine, but I found this to be very unisex.
  • Expense: $145 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.  Opinion my own.


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Les Exclusifs de Chanel Gardénia

chanel-gardeniaI am lamenting the fact that it’s now September which means that summer’s glow will now start turning towards the fall and the cooler weather.  I have to admit that I am more of a summer perfume person…I will happily take florals and light and breezy citrus fragrances over the ambers and vanilla perfumes that are more suited to the cool weather.  Today it was nice and sunny out and a bit cooler than it has been, which meant that it was time to do some cleanup in the yard…and the perfect perfume for tackling this chore was Chanel Gardénia.  Yes, I’ll admit to wearing perfume to work in the yard!

WHAT I SMELL:  Gardénia hits the skin with bright aldehydes that are quickly met with a smooth green lushness and radiant white florals.  The perfume is so creamy and full of life and full of unending joy. Gardénia can’t help but lift your spirits when you put it on.  The gardenia, formed with the roundest of tuberose, sparkles as if the dew is bouncing off of the waxy white pedals of the flowers.  As it develops, the perfume begins to dry out and a woody base that’s warm and radiant begins to hover underneath the white flowers and I find it now to be incredibly pretty without being overly feminine.  As it continues to develop, Gardénia really begins to sweeten… but I’ve noticed that how sweet the perfume becomes depends on the temperature, humidity, etc.  In the summer, this sweetness melds wonderfully with the moist air, but in the winter it could easily become cloying.  Overall, Gardénia hits the spot for raising my happy quotient and I like that.

From the Chanel website:

Mademoiselle Chanel liked white flowers, so well-defined, so sensual…and yet her emblem, the Camellia, has no scent. But the Gardenia, which it so closely resembles, fills the air with fragrance. Gabrielle Chanel and Ernest Beaux evoked this flower magnificently: its green notes, its creamy heart, and a trail full of fantasy.

Sunny 60s

Sue Lyon post Lolita

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Simply ’60s – the traditional years that were easy, simple, uncomplicated and a bit square.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE GARDÉNIA:  pretty, joyful, easy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GARDÉNIA:  Bois de Jasmin, Olfactoria’s Travels, The Non-Blonde

BOTTOM LINE:  Gardénia doesn’t get the love or respect that other Chanel Les Exclusifs do, and I understand that.  Gardénia is a rather safe and unpretentious perfume…but when I wear it, I wear it solely for myself and no others.  I just wish the longevity of the perfume was a bit better…as it is, I am doing a lot of spritzing throughout the day…but I’m fine with that too!

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: $160 for 2.5 oz eau de toilette.  Also available in parfum extrait.