The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Hacivat by Nishane

WHAT I SMELL:  At first sniff Hacivat opens with a quiet and slightly chalky bergamot topped with a soft and lightly sweetened pineapple with hints of citrus.  I thought the perfume would go on loud, but instead it’s beautifully muted and contained.  Along with the sweetened notes, there’s an underlying smell of pencil shavings that gives the opening some depth.  The perfume stays in this mild sweetness for some time and that’s perfectly fine with me, because it’s incredibly calm and reassuring in it’s essence.  After some time, the citrus makes way for the woody.  Now it’s time for the perfume to grow as every minute it seems to build with a warm and lightly floral cedar.  What was soft and reassuring in the beginning is now bolder and rather masculine with a patchouli note that seems to dominate.  Here the perfume turns to a slightly sugared, but rather flat wood.  After a great while longer, the perfume begins to project and dry with some powder.  Overall, Hacivat’s development to me was a mixed bag:  the opening was incredible, the middle stage had me worried, but in the end the perfume begins to redeem itself with a softness that’s rather elegant and again, rather reassuring.  But as I say that, out comes a soured note that leaves me a little cold.

From the NIshane website:

Is a tribute to elegance, kindness, competence, and love of art. Inspired by the traditional shadow play character, this eau cypre will help you live in your best dreams by the everlasting sparkles of its joyful structure made of the stimulating notes of pineapple and bergamot backed with the genuine woody notes. Enjoy being loved!

TOP NOTES – bergamot – pineapple – grapefruit

HEART NOTES – jasmine – patchouli – cedarwood

BASE NOTES – clearwood – oakmoss – dry timberwood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Ambivalence.  I love it…I like it…I don’t like it.  Every sniff leaves me with a different feeling.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE HACIVAT:  secure, even-tempered, safe

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT HACIVAT:  BL’eauOG, That Luxurious Feeling

BOTTOM LINE:  As mentioned above, every time I wear this perfume I get a little something different from it, but the one consistent aspect is that I kind of like it, but am not anywhere near loving it.  And that to me that’s rather disappointing.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Citrus Chypre Woody
  • Nose:  Jorge Lee
  • Classification: Unisex, but leans masculine
  • Expense: Approximately $240 for 50 ml perfume extrait.


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Encore Une Fois by Art de Parfum – Limited Edition

WHAT I SMELL:  Encore Une Fois opens with a wonderfully rich bergamot sprinkled with a sparkling brown sugar sweetness. Very quickly, a swirl of light florals rise to the top along with a tinge of greenish stems. It’s lush without being heavy and it seems to bounce off of the skin. As its journey continues, a cedar note takes the perfume from the garden to the edge of the forest. Here, the sunshine of the golden ambergris makes the perfume radiate with a warmish hue of splendor and security. After a bit, a chalky flattened note begins to tone down the golden aspects of the perfume and moves it to the more woody. After quite some time, a caramelized incense rises lightly off the skin making the perfume more refined and rather mysterious with just the right amount of perfection. From beginning to end, Encore Une Fois is an interesting perfume in the most beautiful and original way.

From the Art of Perfume website :

Top Notes: bergamot, orange flower leaves

Heart Notes: purple, incense, peony, Lily of the Valley, saffron flower

Base Notes: ambergris, patchouli, cedar, benzoin, balsam perals, caramel, white musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Sunlit woodscape.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ENCORE UNE FOIS:  journeyed, semi-bright, mysterious

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ENCORE UNE FOISAustralian Perfume Junkies , Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  At first spritz you do not expect that Encore Une Fois will transform from the bright and light to the more woody and mysterious. Such a transition might be jolting in many perfumes. Here, the movement in development is so seamless it feels completely natural.  Encore Une Fois is a beautiful perfume that’s worth the journey.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Approximately $200 for 50 ml perfume extrait.


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Guerlain Nuit d’Amour

WHAT I SMELL:   Nuit d’Amour opens softly with lightly sweetened lychee fruitiness that swiftly blends with a touch of pink pepper and a softened rose that seems to be puffed with air floating underneath.   The perfume is rather dreamy and is surrounded in a cloudy haze that hovers over the perfumed skin.  Soon enough, a soft violet blends itself in the dreamy concoction.  But here the violet is less innocent, but more knowing and rather mature.  After a short time, a sandalwood begins to form as the base.  Never heavy, it makes the perfect resting place for the lightly warmed florals.  In the end, the perfume quiets even more, leaving you in a powdery haze of light florals wrapped in musky gauze.

From the Guerlain website:

Jean-Paul Guerlain created Nuit d’Amour as a tribute to Gustav Klimt and one of his works of art: “Lady with Hat and Feather Boa.” This floral, powdery and woody fragrance recalls the stirring emotion that might strike when you encounter an unknown woman with indefinable charm.

Powdery and Woody Floral.
Sweet, moving, feminine.
Top notes: lychee, pink pepper.
Heart notes: May rose, violet.
Base notes: sandalwood, white musks, iris.

Lady With Hat and Feather Boa – Gustav Klimt (1909)

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   I can’t argue with Jean-Paul Guerlain’s inspiration of Gustav Klimt’s “Lady with Hat and Feather Boa.”

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE NUIT D’AMOUR:  reserved, refined, soft

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NUIT D’AMOUR:  Bois de Jasmin, Australian Perfume Junkies

BOTTOM LINE:  I so much want to love this perfume.  It’s soft, it’s pretty, but there’s just not enough of it.  It’s much too restrained to command any affection from me.  That said, it’s really nice…just really nice and that’s a shame.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Floral
  • Nose:  Jean Paul Guerlain
  • Classification:  Feminine
  • Expense:  125 ml Eau de Parfum.  Exclusively at Guerlain Boutiques as part of the Les Parisiennes collection.