The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


6 Comments

La Manufacture Cologne Rare

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WHAT I SMELL:  Cologne Rare initially shines with a fresh citrus and bright bergamot opening.  But there’s a little surprise with the addition of a lightly herbal and sharpened green note. In all it’s like a sun filled herbal garden surrounded by several lemon and lime trees.  The freshness and sparkle from the opening starts to warm on the skin and there’s a light sugared tartness that adds just the modern uniqueness to this rather traditional scent.  As the cologne continues to develop, a sweetened patchouli that feels topped with lavender, pulsates off the skin.  In a short while, the patchouli becomes the centerpiece, but the woodiness of the note seems to be wrapped around a citrus tinged vetiver.  And just when you thought the perfume had found its resting place, it instead continues to deepen like a golden elixir.  This is one nice cologne.

From the La Manufacture website:

A breath of bergamot and basil

Under the intense sun, one seeks out the scarce shade beneath the dungeon’s stone vault. You can sprinkle yourself with a spirited freshness.

Bergamot collides with basil, peel meets leaf. Notes full of character cross steel in an exchange of green… The green tartness of rhubarb yields to the somber green of patchouli and vetiver, giving rise to full-bodied base notes. A breath of coolness lingers, weaving among heightened wood notes.

“I chose bergamot from Italy for its lavender and pepper undertones. The basil from Egypt, with its singular anise note, makes the transition from citrus to green heart. The green is darkened by a smoky-leather note specific to vetiver from Haiti.

Carla Chabert, perfumer

Italy - Berengo Gardin (7)WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A stroll through the sun warmed Italian countryside.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE COLOGNE RARE:  comforting, easy, delightful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT COLOGNE RARE:  No additional reviews were found.

BOTTOM LINE: Cologne Rare is the perfect antidote for the heat of the summer.  It’s an uncomplicated, yet modern, version of a classic citrus cologne with a tangy herbal edge.  It’s bright, sunny, easy to wear and it can’t help but put you in a good mood.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Citrus Aromatic
  • Nose: Carla Chabert
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $125 for 100 ml cologne


17 Comments

Jermyn Street by Floris

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WHAT I SMELL:  Jermyn Street opens with a sparking bergamot and a lightly sugared mandarin.  The opening is warm, incredibly refreshing, bright and rather formal.  Soon, the vibrant opening moves more towards a woody flatness that’s slightly herbal.   The perfume is really hard to describe at this point, but what comes to mind is a bit of chalkiness, just like the smell when you wipe down and clean a chalkboard with water.  But that evolution doesn’t last all that long as well, and instead a light sweetness moves back in.  The perfume is full of small nuances and is very restrained and proper and clean and neat.  As it continues to develop, the juniper berry gives the perfume a gin martini vibe, but one with just a dash of cream and a splash of soap.  At this point, the perfume becomes warm and comforting as the amber wraps itself around the musky woody notes.  At the same time, projection increases, but not enough to shout, but just enough to make you noticeable.

From the Floris website:

Inspired by what has been the backbone of the family business for nearly 300 years in the unique area of London that is St James’s and our home at 89 Jermyn Street, this fragrance, like its inspiration has the feel of refined elegance, understated class and style. Drawing on notes of gin with a splash of lemon, an initial burst of citrus and green notes have been blended with the theme of vetiver. The vetiver runs through the fragrance from its introduction to the base and is supported in the heart, accompanied by juniper with a contemporary twist of coriander, a subtle complement in gin creation. The fragrance also draws inspiration from the London plane trees which proudly still stand in front of the shop today, and the fresh scent of fine crisp cotton found within the renowned shirtmakers residing in the iconic location named after Henry Jermyn in 1664.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Green Vetiver, Violet
Heart Notes: Coriander, Vetiver, Armoise, Juniper Berry
Base Notes: Amber, Cedarwood, Musk, Vetiver

Best Dressed HipsterWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The perfect perfume for the best dressed hipster.  Classic with just enough modern to make it all the perfect for an old school vibe.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE JERMYN STREET:  proper, effortless, bonny

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT JERMYN STREET: Candid Magazine

BOTTOM LINE:  Jermyn Street is a proper, yet effortless perfume for the modern and classic man.  Clean and sophisticated without being stuffy, it’s an easy fit for anyone.  I love perfumes like this…even though I may not be dressed to the nines, when you spritz this on you feel like you are.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Citrus Aromatic
  • Nose: Edward Bodenham
  • Classification: Leans masculine
  • Expense: $192 for 50 ml eau de parfum


10 Comments

Summer by Dasein

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What’s more perfect for the beginning of the dog days of summer, than to review a perfume named Summer??!

WHAT I SMELL:  Summer opens with a dash of fresh cilantro which is soon met with a muted grapefruit.  The perfume feels like it’s comprised of the perfect ingredients for creating a wonderful citrus based salsa.  But there is also an undertone of the perfume which reminds me so much of playing along the white sheets hanging on the line as a child (much to the chagrin of my mother!)  As the perfume progresses, the cilantro recedes and the mixture of light citrus feels weighted under a layer of fresh rain water.  It’s sunny, without being bright, but instead a clean musk and the most subtle of grass note which helps to generate a freshness.  After around 10 minutes, the projection begins to grow, but the scent doesn’t transform or change that much except for the orange blossom which begins to take over as the prominent note over the grapefruit which adds just a hint of sour to this fresh-faced composition.

From the Dasein website:

SUMMER unisex fragrance features notes of cilantro, grapefruit, jasmine, orange blossom and grass.  Each small batch is hand blended in the hills of Glassell Park, Los Angeles.

Boy standing between sheets hanging on a clothesline

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The wonderful smell of sun-kissed fresh laundered sheets on a clothesline.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE SUMMER:  sunny, clean, fresh

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SUMMER: CaFleureBon, Colognoisseur, Fashion Lifestyle

BOTTOM LINE:  Summer delivers on its name.  The perfume projects big, but it refrains from feeling large.  Summer maybe be the perfect perfume all year long…just right for the hot summer days, but also in the middle of winter when you just want to retreat to your own personal summer day.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Citrus Aromatic
  • Nose: Sam Radar
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $95 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary