The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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New Release: Amorem Rose by Shalini

WHAT I SMELL:   I guess I should not have been surprised, but I was pleasantly so as the opening of Amorem Rose is warm, deep and incredibly rapturous with a beautiful saffron topped by a mentholated rose.  This rose is not one of playful and sweet frivolity, instead, it’s a rose wrapped in abundance of mystery and intrigue.  The mentholated opening gives way to a grand rose that lingers in smokiness making the perfume feel as if it’s smoldering off the skin  For the privileged wearer, the perfume resides in this most exquisite place like a queen holding court.  There’s power in Amorem Rose in the way the rose holds the wearer captive revealing its infinite wisdom.  After considerable time, the perfume’s smokiness is met with a warm ambered wood which adds even more depth to this royal treasure.  Amorem Rose is beautifully calm, but beautifully serious.

From Shalini Parfums:

Amorem Rose is an ode to love, the greatest love…

The Rose has the highest love energy of all the flowers, often referred to as the Queen of Flowers, the symbol of the divine feminine love.

Amorem Rose is the most opulent rose parfum with an element of smoke.

Lalique crystal flacon “Les Hirondelles

The smoke brings a sense of mystery and intrigue reminiscent of a great love… the love that touches your soul deeply and alters your very being.

The parfum is a glorious composition of Bulgarian rose, Saffron flowers, Baltic amber and Mahogany wood.

The Damask Rose which grows in the magical “Rose Valley” in Bulgaria is considered the most fragrant, exquisite and opulent of all roses. It is the “heart” of  Amorem Rose.

Saffron flowers bring a golden light to the parfum, and are reminiscent of the orient and grandeur.

Baltic amber and  Mahogany wood bring the element of smoke and intrigue while creating a balance to the beautiful floral of the Damask rose.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The most luxurious royal rose-colored textile…exquisitely lush and fit for a queen.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE AMOREM ROSE:  rapturous, mysterious, deep

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AMOREM ROSE:  CaFluereBon, Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE:  Shalini and Maurice Roucel once again make beautiful magic with this dramatic creation.  If you’re looking for a rose that makes a grand statement, Amorem Rose is for you.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental
  • Nose:  Maurice Roucel
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Cubique glass bottle with the glass stopper $500 for 50 ml, Cubique glass bottle with black bulb atomizer $500 for 50 ml,  Small spray bottle $150 for 7.5 ml.  And for those who want the ultimate in luxury, limited edition Lalique crystal flacon “Les Hirondelles” priced at $3000.  All parfum extrait.  Available at Bergdorf Goodman and Aedes De Venustas.


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The Decay of the Angel by Timothy Han Edition Perfumes

WHAT I SMELL:   The Decay of the Angel opens on the skin with soft and creamy mandarin and neroli, that quickly becomes contained in a mentholated tent of a indolic jasmine.  The perfume’s florals are rich and thick and they feel like they’re full of syrup that coats the skin.  The perfume is incredibly unique, absolutely stunning and mind numbing when breathed in.  After a short while, the syrupy thickness begins to melt away, but the mentholated florals remain with a softened tone.  After a bit, a light suede settles in under the florals as they continue to thin and the perfume continues to radiate, but with a softer intensity.  After a short while longer, a light plastic ebbs in, like the smell of a fleshy band-aid.  It’s not a bad smell, but mixed with the florals it’s interestingly unique.  In the end, the labdanum is the star, giving the perfume a warmed and comforting musk that lingers with the remains of the ghost like florals.

From the Timothy Han Edition Perfumes website:

A rich and exotic burnt floral fragrance with a subtle headiness that comes from desire infused by flowers on the wane. Inspired by Yukio Mishima’s 1971 novel of the same name, these are the final longings of a descending angel.

Top:  Mandarin, Neroli, Rose, Ylang Ylang, Frankincense

Heart:  Sambac Jasmin, Acacia, Cade

Base:  Oudh, Cedarwood, Patchouli, Tonka, Labdanum

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A dilapidated French château.  Once full of life with beautiful gardens it’s now a reflection of it’s former self.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE THE DECAY OF THE ANGEL:  haunting, introspective, unique

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT THE DECAY OF THE ANGEL:  None to be found.

BOTTOM LINE:  I love this perfume.  It’s achingly beautiful in a otherworldly way.  Sometimes perfumes speak to the soul.  In this case The Decay of the Angel does to mine.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Oriental
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $180 for 60 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.


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Oriza L. Legrand Gentry Jockey Club

WHAT I SMELL:   Gentry Jockey Club goes on the skin with a warm and comforting bergamot with soft touches of iris and rose. It buzzes with vibrancy, yet at the same time retains a sense calm and a sense of security.  A light leather soon enters, but like the florals, it too remains soft and inviting.  To warm the perfume even more, an ambered hue of sandalwood is injected which begins to dry out the opening softness of the perfume.   I’m not sure what is responsible for the next movement, but a light earthy element is brought in.  It’s a combination that feels like earthy and mossy soil which has been dried in the sun.  A birch note helps to give it a slightly burnt edge as if in the distance you can smell the remains of recent fire.  This is where the perfume settles in for bulk of its wear, it radiates and pulses as continues to grow with some intensity resting in a dry burnt wood and hay consistency.

Feast day at the racecourse: ribbons and hats in the wind, the elegant look at the fiery horse, the one that will lead to victory …
The air perfumes the leather of the horses treading the hot sand and the smell of blond tobacco.
Jockey Club, the perfume of victory …
 
Top notes:  Italian bergamot – Ylang of the Comoros – Saffron
Heart notes:  Iris Pallida – Bulgarian rose – Leather notes – Patchouli – Birch essence
Background notes:  Real Sandalwood from India – Tonka Bean – Ambrette – Ambergris – Vetiver Haiti

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: 
Gentry Jockey Club smells less like a race track and more like what I envision a medieval farm to small like…dirt, hay and scorched earth.


THREE WORD
S THAT DESCRIBE GENTRY JOCKEY CLUB:  rustic, earthy, dried

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GENTRY JOCKEY CLUB:  None found.

BOTTOM LINE:   Gentry Jockey Club remains true to the roots of the Oriza L. Legrand brand.  It has a nostalgic sensibility, but feels modern at the same time.  If you like the smokiness of birch tar you’ll probably like this.  To me however, after some time, the perfume just gets too smoky on me.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  120 Euros for 100 ml Eau de Parfum