The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Chanel Le Lion

le-lion-chanel-nuevo-perfume-fragancia-leon-1WHAT I SMELL:  Le Lion goes on the skin with an ambered bergamot and lemon that is tinged with patchouli in an opening that is is warm, yet light and inviting.  There is no mistake that the DNA of Le Lion is aligned with Guerlain’s classic Shalimar.  But to me, the biggest difference is the lemon and citrus which remains front and center which lifts the perfume up to something that is lighter, a tad brighter and much more approachable and easy to wear.  Le Lion doesn’t morph all that much, but as it does wear, a puttied sandalwood makes it way under the other notes and the entire composition begins to lighten.

From the Chanel website:

Gabrielle Chanel was born on August 19, 1883, under the sign of Leo. Majestic, indomitable and wild, the lion is more than just her astrological symbol; it also embodies Mademoiselle’s radiant personality and serves as inspiration for this powerful fragrance.

Faceted with a rich amber accord and featuring bold notes of bergamot, lemon, patchouli and sandalwood, the scent evokes the spirit of CHANEL.

Chill LionWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A chill lion.  Modern; made for today.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE LE LIONcomfortable, easy, Shalimar-lite

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LE LION:  Persolaise, The Black Narcissus, Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE:  I like Le Lion and could see myself wearing this often as it’s an amber perfume that doesn’t set out to be too heavy.  The citrus remains afloat above the patchouli and sandalwood to give it just enough of that clean Chanel finish that is so easy to love.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Amber
  • Nose:  Olivier Polge
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $200 for 2.5 oz. eau de parfum


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Ambre 114 by Histoires de Parfums

After 5 days without cable and internet, I am finally back online.  The tree that overtook my backyard is now in piles in the front of the yard and everything is getting back to normal.  Thanks for all the kind words from everyone who wished us well during the storm and my absence.  So now that I am back in the saddle, I thought I would continue with my fall obsession with testing amber fragrances.  The first is a sample that has been sitting in my untested pile for almost a year, Ambre 114.

WHAT I SMELL:  Almost icy/hot to the touch, Ambre 114 goes on medicinal; the thyme is very evident.  Then as quickly as that leaves you, out comes the geranium note.  I can tell that there’s a bit of amber in there, but I am getting more vetiver at the beginning than amber.  Slowly, the spiciness then wafts up through the other notes.  It starts to warm and then begins to open to that lovely rounded amber that any amber lover craves.  What you are left with is a lovely vanilla’d creamed amber that wraps you in a wonderfully warmed blanket perfect for the long winter nights.

Ambre 114 Notes:

Top Note: Thyme, Nutmeg
Heart Note: Rose, Geranium, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Cedar, Vetiver
Base Note: Amber, Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Benzoin, Musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  If Serge Luten’s Ambre Sultan and Maître Parfumeur et Gantier’s Ambre Precieux had a baby, this is what it would smell like.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE AMBRE 114:  exotic, warm, spiced

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AMBRE 114: Katie Puckrick Smells, Chemist in a Bottle, Fragrance Bouquet

BOTTOM LINE:  Ambre 114 is lovely and if I didn’t own so many ambers at present, I probably would be buying a bottle.  This is easily a comfort scent.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Oriental Spicy
  • Nose: Gerald Ghislain and Magali Senequier
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $125 for 60ml EdP


12 Comments

Ambre Fetiche by Annick Goutal

This past week has been exhausting and crazy busy.  I feel like I haven’t had a chance to really give fragrance a 2nd thought with work and now with preparing for Hurricane Sandy. But I finally had a chance to kick back a bit and I pulled out a sample of Ambre Fetiche to coincide with the cooler temperatures today.  At first I didn’t think I would like this  fragrance, but…

WHAT I SMELL:  Ambre Fetiche goes on with a plasticine rubberized strong artificial blast.  It’s amber wrapped up in air that was let out of an old tire.  It’s strong and very heavy and plastic and more plastic on top of a spiced and smoked amber.  I can’t say the opening is pleasurable because a little goes a long way.  Just a couple of spritzes managed to clog my throat as it coated and choked me a bit.  It’s not until the drydown takes place that this really becomes special.  In the end you’re left with a warm blanket of amber tinged with what to me is almost like hints of brown sugar topped with a light vanilla incense.  Curious, the notes list “leather” but I am not getting that at all!

From the Annick Goutal website:

Captivated by the Orient and its mysteries, Camille Goutal and Isabelle Doyen lead us, through the fragrance Ambre Fétiche, on a journey to the lands of precious essences, of shisha smoke and of marvelous opulence.  A stroll through oases, desert sands and spice markets. Ambre Fétiche belongs with Myrrhe Ardente, Encens Flamboyant and Musc Nomade to the “Orientalists” Collection. These four fragrances, equally suitable for women and men, can be worn alone or combined.

Olfactory family: Amber, Vanilla, Leather (Frankincense, labdanum, styrax – Benzoin, absolute of iris – Vanilla, geranium, patchouli, Russian leather)

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   Starts off as a bear.  Ends up like a lamb.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE AMBRE FETICHE:  bold, strong, unwavering

 

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AMBRE FETICHE: Olfactoria’s Travels, This Blog Really Stinks, I Smell Therefore I Am

BOTTOM LINE:  I have the feeling the next time I wear this, it will wear differently on me.  Additionally, I also have the feeling that this could get a bit tiresome to me.  Maybe it’s just because I put a little too much on and it overwhelmed me.  Remember a little goes a long, long way with Ambre Fetiche.  Oh, after about an hour after I put this on, my better half told me I stink!

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Oriental
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Nose:  Camille Goutal and Isabelle Doyen
  • Expense: Varies online