The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


2 Comments

Guerlain Habit Rouge Eau de Toilette

WHAT I SMELL:  Habit Rouge opens with a bright and sparkling mix of citrus highlighted by a clean barbershop lemon.  It feels neat, brisk and fully energetic.  After a short time, the citrus begins to mute and a warmth begins to wrap itself around the lemon with a light creamed sandalwood at the center.  The perfume still retains its barbershop vibe, but instead of just coming out of the barber’s chair, it feels a bit more like one has prepped for a night out with a great aftershave.  As the perfume continues to develop, a light floral note gives the perfume a bit of a softer and more rounded feel.  After some more time, the perfume dries, flattens and becomes more herbal and vanilla-woody.  Habit Rouge has a proper feel, but not so much as it feels too buttoned up or uptight.  And in the end, it’s a perfume that’s easy to wear, gentlemanly and perfect for the office or for any occasion.

From the Guerlain website:

Habit Rouge Eau de Toilettes is a classic of elegance, glorified by the freshness of citrus notes.

Created in 1965, Habit Rouge was the first oriental fragrance for men in perfumery. From the moment of its launch, this tribute to Guerlain’s passion for the dressage of horses created an element of surprise with its scents of sensual and bold vanilla. An oriental that is by turns citrusy, warm and accented with vanilla, it expresses the genius of contrast and well-mastered emotions.
Habit Rouge embraces a dandy man who dares everything. combining sophistication and refinement. He lives his life fervently and distinguishes himself with a trail of extreme sensuality.

With its modern geometry and mastery of form, Habit Rouge has an eternally elegant French appeal.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   Classic man of the mid 1960’s.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE HABIT ROUGE:  tailored, reserved, mature

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT HABIT ROUGE:  Bespoke Unit, Bois de Jasmin, Olfactics

BOTTOM LINE:  I can’t believe that I’ve never reviewed Habit Rouge before even though it’s been part of my collection for years.  It’s probably because it’s one of the perfumes that I take for granted as a workhorse and don’t wear when I go out for the evening, but instead reserve it for running errands and working out where the citrus and florals come front and center with the sun and heat.  Habit Rouge makes it easy to smell fantastic no matter what you’re doing.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Citrus
  • Nose:  Jean-Paul Geurlain
  • Classification:  Masculine
  • Expense:  Prices vary, but it can be found for around $50 for a 3.4 oz. eau de toilette.


6 Comments

Chanel PARIS-DEAUVILLE

WHAT I SMELL:  PARIS-DEAUVILLE greets the skin with a sun-kissed fresh orange that’s bright, light and juicy.  Rather quickly, the perfume warms to a delightful sunny white floral and a calming freshly cut basil.  The perfume is so fresh, so bright and so happy that it’s an immediate mood lifter.  The perfume doesn’t morph all that much, but it does warm and it radiates this incredible citrus green accord rounded off by a a softened jasmine and rose mix that bounces off of the skin.  In the end, PARIS-DEAUVILLE becomes a muted and slightly soapy version of the opening…a beautiful citrus and basil dream of a perfume tinged with the lightest of soft florals.

From the Chanel website:

THE INSPIRATION:  1913. Gabrielle Chanel opens her very first fashion boutique, choosing Deauville as the location. This destination marks the beginning of a simple, bold style that becomes iconic with the marinière striped shirt and tweed and jersey fabrics. Inspired by the peaceful landscapes along the Normandy coast, PARIS-DEAUVILLE transposes this bucolic charm to a fragrance of the open air.

Pairing the aromatic green facets of Basil with the sparkling top notes of Sicilian Orange, PARIS-DEAUVILLE reveals a lively, naturally radiant freshness.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A young and ever so pretty Cybill Shepherd; full of sunshine and promise.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PARIS-DEAUVILLE:  fresh, uncomplicated, clean

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PARIS-DEAUVILLE:  The Candy Perfume Boy, Colognoisseur, The Scented Salamander

BOTTOM LINE:  Chanel does easy to wear, fresh and clean better than most.  And PARIS-DEAUVILLE, which is part of the Les Eaux de Chanel collection, is just so delightful to wear because it doesn’t wear you.  The perfume is perfect for wearing while running errands as well as when dining out for the evening al fresco.   Thanks Chanel, for making me smell so fantastic and for lifting my spirits while doing so.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre
  • Nose:  Olivier Polge
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: $130 for 4.2 oz eau de toilette


3 Comments

Guerlain Chamade Pour Homme

WHAT I SMELL:   The opening of Chamade Pour Homme is a welcomed surprise of warm sensual bergamot and dried black pepper.  It sings, it zings and it’s very debonair and rather sexy as it hits the skin.  In addition, it’s rather beefy without being heavy, but it certainly makes its presence known.  After a short time, a lightly metallic floral note emerges…neither big, nor loud; instead it provides a calming presence to the bold opening.  A nutty note is added to the florals which provides just the right amount of depth without being overly spiced.  As the perfume continues to develop, a very light soapiness and light leather wrap themselves around a brown vetiver.  Eventually, the perfume begins to powder which then brings out the floral heart again.  Here the perfume remains with the most radiant of personality.  Chamade Pour Homme is confident in its masculinity without being brutish.

From the Guerlain website:

In 1999, Jean-Paul Guerlain created this moment of love to respond to the exhilaration of Chamade pour Femme, composed in 1969, a dazzling gift for a beloved woman. This men’s fragrance with its stirring charm makes the heart quiver and the pulse race, just as the momentum of desire kindles awaited pleasure.

Top notes: Italian bergamot, black pepper.
Heart notes: hyacinth, violet leaf note, nutmeg.
Base notes: vetiver, leather, precious wood.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The perfect 1960’s family:  what I envision the dad smells like – clean and confident, and of course he’s one helluva nice guy.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHAMADE POUR HOMME:  semi-tailored, approachable, easy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHAMADE POUR HOMME: EAUMG, WMSSL

BOTTOM LINE:  Chamade Pour Homme isn’t revolutionary, but it’s an incredibly beautiful perfume.  It’s the perfect example of a masculine perfume that doesn’t require its masculinity to be overt.  And the floral heart of the perfume provides for the right amount of softness.  But please Guerlain, can you trade in the woody and boxy perfume bottle for something more attractive?  It actually looks like something that I made in shop class in 7th grade.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody 
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: $250 for 100 ml eau de toilette