The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Bois 1920 Sushi Imperiale

WHAT I SMELL:  Sushi Imperiale’s opening is decidedly not sushi like as it opens with a warm crunchy bergamot and sugared orange.  The perfume is sweet, but not sugary sweet; instead its sweetened naturally as if it’s tinged with brown sugar.  Soon enough, the natural sweetness begins to give way for a more flattened floral spice.  The perfume is slightly gourmand, but that quickly moves away and the perfume begins to unleash a warm, shimmering radiance and a lovely warmed sandalwood comes to the forefront.  At this point, Sushi Imperiale becomes enveloping and rapturous…the base notes are a light blanket of comfort that don’t weigh down the perfume, but instead add just the right amount of security.  After this, Sushi Imperiale doesn’t transform much, except when it finally settles in with light and soft patchouli that feels tufted with light cotton.  In other words, it’s comforting and reassuring.

From Bois 1920:

An intense beginning where the citrus notes blend harmoniously for an eau de toilette that speaks of love.  The heart releases its spicy personality:  the vibrant and exotic luminosity of Pepper, Nutmeg and Cinnamon.  The fragrance develops into a brilliant and almost nonchalant wisp of woods and Vanilla of Madagascar.

Top notes are bergamot, mandarin orange and lemon; middle notes are pepper, nutmeg, jasmine, rose, star anise and cinnamon; base notes are sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, tonka bean and madagascar vanilla.

Italian Crown Prince Umberto II

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  To me this is less “sushi” imperial, but it is indeed more italian imperial, meaning that the perfume is fit for a prince.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SUSHI IMPERIALE:  shimmering, comforting, contented

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SUSHI IMPERIALE: AustralianPerfumeJunkies, EauMG, Kafkaesque

BOTTOM LINE: Sushi Imperiale is a wonderfully wearable and elegant perfume that has surprising projection and longevity and is rather beefy for an eau de toilette.  This is a perfume that is perfectly elegant without being snobbish.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Spicy
  • Nose: Enzo Galardi
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Approximately $140 for 50 ml EdT


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Les Exclusifs de Chanel Gardénia

chanel-gardeniaI am lamenting the fact that it’s now September which means that summer’s glow will now start turning towards the fall and the cooler weather.  I have to admit that I am more of a summer perfume person…I will happily take florals and light and breezy citrus fragrances over the ambers and vanilla perfumes that are more suited to the cool weather.  Today it was nice and sunny out and a bit cooler than it has been, which meant that it was time to do some cleanup in the yard…and the perfect perfume for tackling this chore was Chanel Gardénia.  Yes, I’ll admit to wearing perfume to work in the yard!

WHAT I SMELL:  Gardénia hits the skin with bright aldehydes that are quickly met with a smooth green lushness and radiant white florals.  The perfume is so creamy and full of life and full of unending joy. Gardénia can’t help but lift your spirits when you put it on.  The gardenia, formed with the roundest of tuberose, sparkles as if the dew is bouncing off of the waxy white pedals of the flowers.  As it develops, the perfume begins to dry out and a woody base that’s warm and radiant begins to hover underneath the white flowers and I find it now to be incredibly pretty without being overly feminine.  As it continues to develop, Gardénia really begins to sweeten… but I’ve noticed that how sweet the perfume becomes depends on the temperature, humidity, etc.  In the summer, this sweetness melds wonderfully with the moist air, but in the winter it could easily become cloying.  Overall, Gardénia hits the spot for raising my happy quotient and I like that.

From the Chanel website:

Mademoiselle Chanel liked white flowers, so well-defined, so sensual…and yet her emblem, the Camellia, has no scent. But the Gardenia, which it so closely resembles, fills the air with fragrance. Gabrielle Chanel and Ernest Beaux evoked this flower magnificently: its green notes, its creamy heart, and a trail full of fantasy.

Sunny 60s

Sue Lyon post Lolita

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Simply ’60s – the traditional years that were easy, simple, uncomplicated and a bit square.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE GARDÉNIA:  pretty, joyful, easy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GARDÉNIA:  Bois de Jasmin, Olfactoria’s Travels, The Non-Blonde

BOTTOM LINE:  Gardénia doesn’t get the love or respect that other Chanel Les Exclusifs do, and I understand that.  Gardénia is a rather safe and unpretentious perfume…but when I wear it, I wear it solely for myself and no others.  I just wish the longevity of the perfume was a bit better…as it is, I am doing a lot of spritzing throughout the day…but I’m fine with that too!

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: $160 for 2.5 oz eau de toilette.  Also available in parfum extrait.


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Vintage Chaldée by Jean Patou

Chaldee

WHAT I SMELL:  Vintage Chaldée opens with a deep warm full-bodied floral bouquet.  I’m not sure if the top notes are still there as the perfume sets very quickly into the resin based floral presentation.  The perfume is thick and rich with a deep lilac presenting itself as the floral star.  But the lilac isn’t soft and gentle, instead its thickened with the opoponox.  After a while, a dust covers the base of the perfume, giving it a vintage feel without making it feel like it belongs in another time.  The dust then turns to more of a cotton and for some reason it reminds me if the smell of brand new white tube socks.  After around 20 minutes, the vanilla brings an ever so slight sweetness to the warmed florals.  Funny, after around 1/2 hour, a little bit of civet seems to creep in giving the perfume an added depth and dimension.  Finally, the perfume ends it’s journey in this warmed and flattened bouquet that projects this beautiful and confident persona.

Top notes: orange blossom and hyacinth. Heart: jasmine, lilac and narcissus. Base: opoponax, amber and vanilla.

Large floral hatWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A grand hat from a bygone era.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHALDÉE:  warm, contained, deep

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHALDÉE: Now Smell This, Perfume Shrine, I Smell Therefore I Am

BOTTOM LINE:  For an eau de toilette, vintage Chaldee has a large personality and is incredibly long-lasting.  I recently had a chance to test the newly reissued version in eau de parfum concentration and it opened up grand and glorious much like the original.  I was ecstatic.  However, surprisingly enough, it didn’t have the lasting power and it turned rather dark on me.  I do need to give it another chance though…but the vintage….oh my, beautiful.  Thanks to Holly for this beautiful gift!

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Floral
  • Nose: Henri Almeras in 1927
  • Classification: Leans feminine, but could be unisex
  • Expense: Prices vary on eBay.