The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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New Release: Exit the King by Etat Libre d’Orange

WHAT I SMELL:  Exit the King’s opening is bright, light and a little lemony, all of which soon moves to a sparkling pink pepper that quickly melds into a soured, flattened and soapy mix of florals.  From almost the beginning, the perfume has a cottony and gauze like sheath that sits above the muted florals.  Overall, it’s pretty in a inconspicuous and subdued way.  After some more time, a salty edge brings a bit of a bite to the florals floating underneath.  And with the salt, comes a little funk, like a light sweat.   And as I say that, the florals begin to really gain strength while still being muted.  But because of the mix of salt, funk and clean florals, the perfume feels natural, as if it’s just part of your personal DNA.  After some more time, the perfume begins to warm with a lightly sweetened minty patchouli.  Here, the perfume feels like a natural hug with its herbal essence.  As the perfume then slows in development, the herbal becomes more a bit more soapy and a clean woody white musk takes it’s place.  Even without the herbal freshness, the perfume retains its delightful persona.

From Etat Libre d’Orange


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Guerlain Lui

WHAT I SMELL:  Lui opens with a warm, lightly spiced benzoin that’s deeply sensuous and lightly tar like, but without the heavy weight.  Soon enough, a buzzing carnation makes an entrance in the quietest of ways.  And then, a nutmeg and clove spice begins to take shape after a short time adding just a bit of a bite.  The perfume is rather brooding in it’s spicy persona with a mix of benzoin, leather and vanilla spice carrying the perfume on its journey.  In the end, you’re left with a light smoky dry haze of a perfume that hugs close to the skin.

From the Guerlain website:

Feminine. Masculine. Why choose? LUI is a fragrance that likes to blur the boundaries. Not entirely feminine, nor truly masculine, it is both at once. Inspired by a generation that is breaking free from gender norms, Guerlain had the idea of an unmistakably universal fragrance.

Its ambiguous fragrance trail is based on benzoin: floral, spicy and woody in turn, this resin is revealed in all of its complexity as the composition created by perfumer Delphine Jelk unfolds. Fused with powdery and spicy carnation accents, they form an equally unexpected and harmonious blend.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   Autumn in Paris.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE LUI:  reserved, contemplative, semi-spicy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LUI:  The Black Narcissus, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  I love Guerlain perfumes, but I don’t love Lui.  Truly a fall and winter perfume, the nutty-ish spice almost reminds me of the season’s tragic “pumpkin spice” phenomena.  And weirdly, Lui doesn’t make me feel any emotion as I wear it.  Instead, it just rather bores me.

  • Bone Rating:  2.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Spicy Woody Floral
  • Nose:  Delphine Jelk
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $185 for 50 ml eau de parfum


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Gucci Winter’s Spring

Greetings from Mexico.  Yes, it’s been quite a while since I last posted, but it seems that 2020 has been a challenging year at best and that current events, i.e. COVID-19, BLM protests and now Tropical Storm Cristobal encroaching upon the Yucatan Peninsula has brought me back out of hibernation…and in search of a comfort scent.

WHAT I SMELL:   Winter’s Spring first graces the skin with a soft, slightly flat and flaxen lightly peppered cotton.  Rather quickly, a fresh mimosa rushes to the forefront.  It’s fresh, light and just the right amount of soft and pretty.  After a bit, the mimosa warms on the skin with a buttery hue and just a touch of sweetness.  The warmth feels like radiant sun on this skin and the fragrance is incredibly reassuring.  After some time, the warmth makes way once again for the slightly cottoned, but this time with a greenish clean mimosa.  Winter’s Spring is all about mimosa. As such, you won’t find a great deal of development, but it’s just so pretty and comforting you don’t need anything more than what it is.

From the Gucci website:

Representing the first sign of spring at the end of winter, Mimosa blends with notes of Pepper and Musk. A bright and joyful scent, “Winter’s Spring” conveys an immediate rush of energy and light.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Buttery, summery mimosa.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE WINTER’S SPRING:  comforting, clean, reassuring

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT WINTER’S SPRINGeauxSILLAGEIncludes a quick review of the other Gucci Alchemist’s Garden collection.

BOTTOM LINE:  I bought this beauty at the arrival of spring this year, partly because I wanted a lovely spring scent and partly because I have been obsessing about the Gucci Alchemist’s Garden collection and the fabulous bottles.  I took a risk with a blind buy and wasn’t disappointed.  And yes, the ceramic bottles are just as beautiful as in the pictures…and oh so heavy.  And of course, this just means I want more from the collection!

A bit more on the Alchemist’s Garden collection from the Gucci website:

Gucci’s first Haute Perfumery line, The Alchemist’s Garden unfolds within an imagined laboratory filled with curious jars and mesmerizing scents. Blended by master perfumer Alberto Morillas under Alessandro Michele’s creative direction, the customizable collection made up of eaux de parfum, perfumed oils and acque profumate (“scented waters”) is inspired by the art of alchemy and fragrance-making, formulated to be layered and blended together to create a unique, personalized fragrance combination. Built around a hero ingredient linked to the distinctive codes of the House, each scent can be magnified, muted or fused with other fragrances from the luxury collection to create a one-of-a-kind sillage.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral 
  • Nose:  Alberto Morillas
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $340 for 100 ml eau de parfum