The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Gucci Winter’s Spring

Greetings from Mexico.  Yes, it’s been quite a while since I last posted, but it seems that 2020 has been a challenging year at best and that current events, i.e. COVID-19, BLM protests and now Tropical Storm Cristobal encroaching upon the Yucatan Peninsula has brought me back out of hibernation…and in search of a comfort scent.

WHAT I SMELL:   Winter’s Spring first graces the skin with a soft, slightly flat and flaxen lightly peppered cotton.  Rather quickly, a fresh mimosa rushes to the forefront.  It’s fresh, light and just the right amount of soft and pretty.  After a bit, the mimosa warms on the skin with a buttery hue and just a touch of sweetness.  The warmth feels like radiant sun on this skin and the fragrance is incredibly reassuring.  After some time, the warmth makes way once again for the slightly cottoned, but this time with a greenish clean mimosa.  Winter’s Spring is all about mimosa. As such, you won’t find a great deal of development, but it’s just so pretty and comforting you don’t need anything more than what it is.

From the Gucci website:

Representing the first sign of spring at the end of winter, Mimosa blends with notes of Pepper and Musk. A bright and joyful scent, “Winter’s Spring” conveys an immediate rush of energy and light.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Buttery, summery mimosa.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE WINTER’S SPRING:  comforting, clean, reassuring

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT WINTER’S SPRINGeauxSILLAGEIncludes a quick review of the other Gucci Alchemist’s Garden collection.

BOTTOM LINE:  I bought this beauty at the arrival of spring this year, partly because I wanted a lovely spring scent and partly because I have been obsessing about the Gucci Alchemist’s Garden collection and the fabulous bottles.  I took a risk with a blind buy and wasn’t disappointed.  And yes, the ceramic bottles are just as beautiful as in the pictures…and oh so heavy.  And of course, this just means I want more from the collection!

A bit more on the Alchemist’s Garden collection from the Gucci website:

Gucci’s first Haute Perfumery line, The Alchemist’s Garden unfolds within an imagined laboratory filled with curious jars and mesmerizing scents. Blended by master perfumer Alberto Morillas under Alessandro Michele’s creative direction, the customizable collection made up of eaux de parfum, perfumed oils and acque profumate (“scented waters”) is inspired by the art of alchemy and fragrance-making, formulated to be layered and blended together to create a unique, personalized fragrance combination. Built around a hero ingredient linked to the distinctive codes of the House, each scent can be magnified, muted or fused with other fragrances from the luxury collection to create a one-of-a-kind sillage.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral 
  • Nose:  Alberto Morillas
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $340 for 100 ml eau de parfum


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Encore Une Fois by Art de Parfum – Limited Edition

WHAT I SMELL:  Encore Une Fois opens with a wonderfully rich bergamot sprinkled with a sparkling brown sugar sweetness. Very quickly, a swirl of light florals rise to the top along with a tinge of greenish stems. It’s lush without being heavy and it seems to bounce off of the skin. As its journey continues, a cedar note takes the perfume from the garden to the edge of the forest. Here, the sunshine of the golden ambergris makes the perfume radiate with a warmish hue of splendor and security. After a bit, a chalky flattened note begins to tone down the golden aspects of the perfume and moves it to the more woody. After quite some time, a caramelized incense rises lightly off the skin making the perfume more refined and rather mysterious with just the right amount of perfection. From beginning to end, Encore Une Fois is an interesting perfume in the most beautiful and original way.

From the Art of Perfume website :

Top Notes: bergamot, orange flower leaves

Heart Notes: purple, incense, peony, Lily of the Valley, saffron flower

Base Notes: ambergris, patchouli, cedar, benzoin, balsam perals, caramel, white musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Sunlit woodscape.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ENCORE UNE FOIS:  journeyed, semi-bright, mysterious

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ENCORE UNE FOISAustralian Perfume Junkies , Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  At first spritz you do not expect that Encore Une Fois will transform from the bright and light to the more woody and mysterious. Such a transition might be jolting in many perfumes. Here, the movement in development is so seamless it feels completely natural.  Encore Une Fois is a beautiful perfume that’s worth the journey.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Approximately $200 for 50 ml perfume extrait.


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Guerlain Nuit d’Amour

WHAT I SMELL:   Nuit d’Amour opens softly with lightly sweetened lychee fruitiness that swiftly blends with a touch of pink pepper and a softened rose that seems to be puffed with air floating underneath.   The perfume is rather dreamy and is surrounded in a cloudy haze that hovers over the perfumed skin.  Soon enough, a soft violet blends itself in the dreamy concoction.  But here the violet is less innocent, but more knowing and rather mature.  After a short time, a sandalwood begins to form as the base.  Never heavy, it makes the perfect resting place for the lightly warmed florals.  In the end, the perfume quiets even more, leaving you in a powdery haze of light florals wrapped in musky gauze.

From the Guerlain website:

Jean-Paul Guerlain created Nuit d’Amour as a tribute to Gustav Klimt and one of his works of art: “Lady with Hat and Feather Boa.” This floral, powdery and woody fragrance recalls the stirring emotion that might strike when you encounter an unknown woman with indefinable charm.

Powdery and Woody Floral.
Sweet, moving, feminine.
Top notes: lychee, pink pepper.
Heart notes: May rose, violet.
Base notes: sandalwood, white musks, iris.

Lady With Hat and Feather Boa – Gustav Klimt (1909)

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   I can’t argue with Jean-Paul Guerlain’s inspiration of Gustav Klimt’s “Lady with Hat and Feather Boa.”

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE NUIT D’AMOUR:  reserved, refined, soft

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NUIT D’AMOUR:  Bois de Jasmin, Australian Perfume Junkies

BOTTOM LINE:  I so much want to love this perfume.  It’s soft, it’s pretty, but there’s just not enough of it.  It’s much too restrained to command any affection from me.  That said, it’s really nice…just really nice and that’s a shame.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Floral
  • Nose:  Jean Paul Guerlain
  • Classification:  Feminine
  • Expense:  125 ml Eau de Parfum.  Exclusively at Guerlain Boutiques as part of the Les Parisiennes collection.