The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Oriza L. Legrand Gentry Jockey Club

WHAT I SMELL:   Gentry Jockey Club goes on the skin with a warm and comforting bergamot with soft touches of iris and rose. It buzzes with vibrancy, yet at the same time retains a sense calm and a sense of security.  A light leather soon enters, but like the florals, it too remains soft and inviting.  To warm the perfume even more, an ambered hue of sandalwood is injected which begins to dry out the opening softness of the perfume.   I’m not sure what is responsible for the next movement, but a light earthy element is brought in.  It’s a combination that feels like earthy and mossy soil which has been dried in the sun.  A birch note helps to give it a slightly burnt edge as if in the distance you can smell the remains of recent fire.  This is where the perfume settles in for bulk of its wear, it radiates and pulses as continues to grow with some intensity resting in a dry burnt wood and hay consistency.

Feast day at the racecourse: ribbons and hats in the wind, the elegant look at the fiery horse, the one that will lead to victory …
The air perfumes the leather of the horses treading the hot sand and the smell of blond tobacco.
Jockey Club, the perfume of victory …
 
Top notes:  Italian bergamot – Ylang of the Comoros – Saffron
Heart notes:  Iris Pallida – Bulgarian rose – Leather notes – Patchouli – Birch essence
Background notes:  Real Sandalwood from India – Tonka Bean – Ambrette – Ambergris – Vetiver Haiti

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: 
Gentry Jockey Club smells less like a race track and more like what I envision a medieval farm to small like…dirt, hay and scorched earth.


THREE WORD
S THAT DESCRIBE GENTRY JOCKEY CLUB:  rustic, earthy, dried

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GENTRY JOCKEY CLUB:  None found.

BOTTOM LINE:   Gentry Jockey Club remains true to the roots of the Oriza L. Legrand brand.  It has a nostalgic sensibility, but feels modern at the same time.  If you like the smokiness of birch tar you’ll probably like this.  To me however, after some time, the perfume just gets too smoky on me.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  120 Euros for 100 ml Eau de Parfum


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Byredo Pulp

WHAT I SMELL:   Pulp’s opening is a pleasant one with a sparkling fresh bergamot.  That fresh sparkle is quickly met with a warmed blackcurrent which is ripe and juicy and pretty and lush without being overly aggressive.  Soon, the other fruits begin to come in to meet the blackcurrent with the fig and red apple seemingly taking turns at coming to the forefront.  Eventually, they blend together to make a stronger alliance as the perfume begins to expand and project.  In short time, the tiare and peach flower begin to take over and the perfume increases in volume.  There’s an artificiality about the perfume that begins to mimic the characteristics of the notes.   Eventually, the perfume settles in as a fruity floral with nondescript wood sitting underneath.  Pulp is big, but not too big; fresh, but not too fresh; fruity without being too fruity….you get my drift.

From the Byredo website:

In Pulp, a compilation of exotic and Swedish influences create an international fruit basket.  A dramatic composition focused on the idea of ripe, sweet, shapeless mass of fruit, an unruly and intense savor.

Notes:  

Top – bergamot, blackcurrent, cardamom

Heart – fig, red apple, tiare

Base – cedarwood, peach flower, praline

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Pulp isn’t soapy, but it does remind me of those tenacious shampoos from the 1970s where 8 hours after you washed your hair it still smelled as if it was just washed.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PULP: abundant, artificially fresh, vibrant

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PULP:  Musings of a Muse, Colognoisseur, AustralianPerfumeJunkies

BOTTOM LINE:   Pulp is pleasant enough in a very non-offensive way.  Its artificial freshness makes for a pretty easy wear, but to me, it does grow rather tiresome as it eventually (after a couple of hours) turns to a cottony musk.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Fruity
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  Approx $110 for 50 ml eau de parfum

Footnote:  After completing my writing of this post in its entirety, I read what I wrote and I found that the review seemed to have been “phoned in”.  So what does that mean?  Well, the post doesn’t flow all to well and it seems to be lacking any real effort or oomph.  I thought about cleaning the post up and doing some edits, but then decided…no.  Pulp, although being nice enough of a perfume, it too feels “phoned in”…so there you go.


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New Release: Mona di Orio Dõjima

WHAT I SMELL:  Dõjima has a soft and subtle opening which quickly gives rise to a warm and milky rice and a nutty amber.  The perfume is quiet and contained and it seems to possess a zen like reverence.   While the miky rice note remains as it develops, the amber takes on more a floral hue.  And the florals seem to float above the milkiness as if they are dancing lightly atop a ripple on a quiet pond.  The remaining nutty amber seems to flicker in and out which makes the perfume lightly gourmand with hints of green tea.  Dõjima is slow to transform, but being true to the serenity of the fragrance, its gentle unfolding is like a quiet journey for the soul.

From the Mona di Orio website:

The name derives from the Dōjima Rice Exchange founded by Samurai in 1697 in Osaka, Japan. Let us travel back to this moment in time, have the beauty and serenity of a single rice grain work as your seductive armor.

Dõjima turns to powder as it combines with the warmth of the skin and a cloud of rice powder surrounded by jasmin and orris radiates through the day. The soft texture of rice is lifted by a warm powdered amber speckled with dry spices and woods on a creamy musk base.

Rice Accord, nutmeg absolue, ambrette, jasmin, orris, clary sage absolute, labdanum CO2, sandalwood and precious musks.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Lotus flowers scattered amongst the rice fields.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE DÕJIMA:  quiet, serene, balanced

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DÕJIMA:  CaFleureBon, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  I am a big fan of perfumer Fredrik Dalman, his Mona di Orio debut Bohea Boheme was one of my picks for new releases of last year.  Like Bohea Boheme, Dõjima quietly unfolds the mysteries of the east.  There is nothing brash, nor hard about this gem, but like a jewel, its beauty sparkles with a reverent dignity.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose: Fredrik Dalman
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $200 for 75 ml eau de parfum