The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Chanel Jersey

WHAT I SMELL:  Jersey’s opening consists of a soft, cottony lipstick tinged lavender that is soon met with a warmed, lightly brown sugared and caramelized vanilla.  The vanilla isn’t heavy nor overly sweet, and as such it’s the perfect companion for the powdery lavender that resides on top of it.  At this juncture, Jersey feels as if it’s made from cotton which has been milled and then folded into a bottle.  As the perfume continues to develop, the lavender and vanilla begin to add a bit of cream that softens the perfume and turns it from the muslin towards a lightly sweet lotion.  And basically that’s it; Jersey is a simple…no make that…Jersey is a simply beautiful perfume.

From the Chanel website:

The Roaring Twenties. In this era of jazz and folly, Mademoiselle Chanel dressed women in sailor sweaters made of jersey, creating clothing in which to laugh and dance with effortless elegance.

Composed by Jacques Polge—Creator of CHANEL Fragrance from 1978 to 2014—JERSEY reveals the feminine treasures of lavender by combining it with bourbon vanilla in a creamy accord heightened by notes of white musk. A scent of life and joy.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Dreamy lavendered cottoned clouds.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE JERSEYuncomplicated, delightful, happy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT JERSEY:  The reviews I found were for the eau de toilette version that was discontinued in 2016 to make way for the new line of eau de parfums in the Les Exclusifs line.  As there may be significant differences, I have not included any of them here.  The only eau de parfum review I found is from Viora London.

BOTTOM LINE:  Funny, I wrote the following about 31 Rue Cambon just weeks ago and I have to say that it also applies perfectly to Jersey:  Once again, Chanel does it with a perfume that is clean, easy to wear, and anything but boring.  Jersey is an uncomplicated perfume that rises to the occasion when you don’t want to fuss about what you’re going to wear.  And it does so beautifully.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose:  Jacques Polge
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $200 for 2.5 oz. eau de parfum


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Chanel 31 Rue Cambon

WHAT I SMELL:  31 Rue Cambon goes on cool with a peppered bergamot that’s fizzy, but fixed within the pepper.  The florals come quickly with a beautifully creamy and waxy ylang-ylang.  The perfume seems to exist in the middle; not too light and not too heavy, but riding this really easy wave of florals that as time goes on becomes accented with tinges of the pepper.  But that soon dissipates and the perfume moves completely to the creamy.  Here, 31 Rue Cambon is incredibly pretty as the ylang-ylang gives a bit of leeway to allow for the rose to come forward.  And here they sit in harmony with each other in the most beautiful of ways.  After some time, the perfume moves to a cool iris and begins to powder and expand and sweeten just so slightly giving the perfume a light lipstick vibe. Not too far after, a patchouli makes a lightly sharpened entrance and the perfume becomes more woody and edgy.  There’s also just the lightest of leather that appears as the perfume becomes drier and more rooted in the straw.  Looking at what I just wrote, it seems 31 Rue Cambon makes quite the journey, when in fact it’s all so seamless that it really just glides along with incredible ease.

From the Chanel website:

31 rue Cambon: the epicenter of the world of Coco Chanel, a place that combined her love of simplicity and taste for baroque style. This mysterious and sensual fragrance captures her contrasting passions.

Evoking the timeless elegance of CHANEL, this scent is imbued with simple-yet-powerful accents: the radiance of a chypre accord heightened with iris and black pepper. A true reflection of brilliance.

Top notes are Black Pepper, Bergamot and Green Notes; middle notes are iris, Ylang-Ylang and Rose; base notes are Patchouli, Labdanum and Woody Notes.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A handmade henequen purse.  Classy in a laid back kind of way.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE 31 RUE CAMBONsophisticated, easy, snappy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT 31 RUE CAMBON:   The only reviews I found were for the eau de toilette version that was discontinued in 2016 to make way for the new line of eau de parfums in the Les Exclusifs line.  As there may be significant differences, I have not included any of them here.

BOTTOM LINE:  Once again, Chanel does it with a perfume that is clean, easy to wear, and anything but boring.  31 Rue Cambon seems to morph with your mood and activity.  It can be buttoned up for work, buttoned down for running errands, or glammed up for the night on the town.  And it’s perfect every time.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Woody Chypre
  • Nose:  Jacques Polge
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $200 for 2.5 oz. eau de parfum


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Maison Francis Kurkdjian – Aqua Celestia Cologne forte

WHAT I SMELL:  Aqua Celestia Cologne forte’s first spritz is a very fresh sparkling bergamot that’s fizzy and lightly sweet and tart at the same time.  Quickly, a blackberry note joins the bergamot, or I should say, sits on top of the bergamot because it feels layered as if they’re part of a fruit parfait.  The perfume is clean and bright, so much so that even if you were a little sweaty and hot from the day, the perfume would make you feel like you just stepped out of the shower.  The blackberry note continues to grow as the bergamot begins to fade into the background.   As the bergamot recedes, a fruit infused jasmine highlighted by peach comes in to take its place.  The fruit is bright and just so slightly juicy, but not enough to add any weight to the perfume.  As it continues to develop, a sandalwood pencil shaving note appears adding just the right amount of depth to bring this light and bright beauty back to the earth.  In the end, Aqua Celestia Cologne forte rests in a wonderfully light musky floral haze that’s ever so easy to love and easy to wear.

From the Maison Francis Kurkdjian website:

The bergamot becomes tinged with the fruity notes of blackcurrant, mimosa (with its raspberry and blackberry facets), and jasmine (strawberry, apricot and peach accents), before gradually melting into the mellowness of a fruity musky accord. Aqua Celestia Cologne forte releases a bright, crystal-clear aura and offers a flight towards the horizon.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Picking berries in the cool sweet morning air.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE AQUA CELESTIA COLOGNE FORTE:  pretty, delightful, refreshing

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AQUA CELESTIA COLOGNE FORTE:  Contents

BOTTOM LINE:  The great thing about the Maison Francis Kurkdjian perfumes is that they are so easy to wear and many have this crisp clean finish that is impossible not to like.  Aqua Celestia Cologne forte (which is an eau de parfum) is no exception.

Aqua Celstica Cologne forte was released this year along with two other perfumes for a trio of Cologne fortes.  The following are my abbreviated impressions of the other two in the collection:

Aqua Vitae Cologne forte:  An inviting perfume that is perfectly delightful with the prettiest of florals that are topped with a mandarin orange.  I would call this a warm perfume that would be perfect for wearing even in the heat of summer.  Another 4 bones from me as it’s really lovely.

Aqua Universalis Cologne forte:  To me, this is the least interesting of the three perfumes.  Comprised of citrus and white muted flowers, it’s not bright, nor pretty, but rather salty and musky.  3 bones.

Samples courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.