The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


2 Comments

Cartier – XII L’Heure Mysterieuse

WHAT I SMELL:  L’Heure Mysterieuse has a strange opening that’s full of smoke and tar as well as a heavy patchouli that is thick, chewy and rather like paste.  The smoke rises off of the skin like some kind of industrial component.  This is a very bizarre as I can’t see how the opening brings promise of anything beautiful or gentile….or something that represents “Cartier.”  Thankfully, after a short time, the tar and heavy smoke begin to lift.  A dried flatness of incense appears instead and the perfume starts to belie a more gentle persona.  But don’t get me wrong, there’s a strength to the perfume in that it has a fighting energy buried beneath the smoky subdued radiance.  After quite some time a light floral appears, once again softening the former intensity.  To me, L’Heure Mysterieuse is a hard perfume to describe, but I can tell you that it has a classic old world heart that reminds me of fragrances from the 1970s.

From the Cartier website:

Silence was on the prowl. You could hear it breathing, lurking like desire. The calmness felt only temporary. Drowsiness gained life, slowly jasmine and heavily PATCHOULI. This was the time for listening to your own pulse at the edge of abandon, like a reverse countdown, a voyage into the intimate where everything both takes shape and disintegrates. Withdraw into yourself, escape and focus your mind on your inner self, reaching that point where self-awareness resides. Was it elemi gum, CORIANDER day? Was it incense, FRANKINCENSE night? Soon you must leave the juniper darkness… but not quite yet. First, savor L’HEURE MYSTÉRIEUSE for just one hour – no longer, that’s a promise – extracted from deep within, and rediscover your own personal roots.

La Liberté guidant le peuple. Eugène Delacroix. 1830

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  La Liberté.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE L’HEURE MYSTERIEUSE:  smoky, intense, retro

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’HEURE MYSTERIEUSE:  AustralianPerfumeJunkies, Bois de Jasmin, Katie Puckrick Smells

BOTTOM LINE:  L’Heure Mysterieuse Is a like and not a love for me.  The opening is weirdly interesting, but the drydown redeems the perfume as it turns into a retro classical scent.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Spicy
  • Nose:  Mathilde Laurent
  • Classification: Unisex (but to me it leans masculine)
  • Expense: $1 for 75 ml eau de parfum


2 Comments

Eight & Bob – Egypt

WHAT I SMELL:  Rather than a dry heat rising from the Sahara, Egypt opens with warm nutty lavender that quickly begins to fizz with a mellow lemon citrus coating.  It’s warm, but at the same time rather crisp and slightly formal, while projecting a casual vibe.  The lemon and nutmeg make for a light gourmand presence…slightly sugared, but never sweet.   The patchouli enters rather quickly, but instead of taking over, it glides underneath the nuttiness.  Here the perfume really begins to project and it’s warm and inviting and rather sexy as its self-assured.  As the perfume continues to develop the patchouli comes front and center with a sandalwood that tries to keep the scent from becoming to sweet.  But unfortunately on my skin, Egypt turns into a patchouli bomb…that’s not bad, but I would have liked to experience some more of the leather, which only appears after an hour or so and with barely a whisper.

Notes from the Eight & Bob website:

Top Notes: Lavender, Lemon, Moss

Heart Notes:  Cardamom, Nutmeg

Base Notes:  Leather, Patchouli, Sandalwood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Early 20th Century Egypt…a blending of old with the new.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE EGYPT:  Semi-sweet, semi-formal, semi-modern

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT EGYPT:  CaFleureBon, Perfume Posse

BOTTOM LINE:  I want to like this perfume, but the patchouli is just a bit too radiant for my taste.  Too bad because otherwise it’s a lovely fragrance.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $183 for 100 ml eau de parfum


3 Comments

Juliette Has A Gun – Moscow Mule

WHAT I SMELL:  Moscow Mule kicks off with a zesty, but subtle bergamot which then amps up to a wonderfully delicious ginger and lime. It’s like a little bit of happiness in a spritz.  I love this opening so much that I wish the perfume would remain in this realm forever, but unfortunately it continues it’s journey past the zesty jubilance.  But no worries, Moscow Mule continues its progression to reveal a green apple note that keeps the perfume bright and light.  There’s just a hint of a hairspray note on top of the apple, but it’s not enough to overpower or take away from the green fruit.  This is where the perfume resides and wonderfully so as it’s fresh and breezy and an easy wear.  A bit of ambroxan gives the perfume a little depth beneath the apple, but the overall star is the apple.  Finally after quite some time, a clean and cottony woodsy musk wraps up the fruitful journey. 

From the Juliette Has A Gun website:

Moscow Mule’s olfactory trail hypnotizes its audience, as if it were inviting everyone to share, over a glass of something, a timeless moment, where tongues are loosened and bodies scolding hot. A twist of ginger for the sexy side, a zest of lemon for the punch! A limitless pleasure to be consumed without moderation.

Top notes: Bergamot, Ginger, Lime
Heart notes: Apple Essence, Jasmine
Bottom notes: Ambretolide, Ambroxan, Norlimbanol

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Moscow Mule is a happy mule.

THREE WORD S THAT DESCRIBE MOSCOW MULE:  refreshing, delightful, positive

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MOSCOW MULE: CaFleureBon, EauMG, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  Moscow Mule is a great summer splash of a perfume.  It’s completely unisex and is perfect to wear as an everyday fragrance.  The only downside is that the perfume wears into a rather generic woody musk, but that just means you just have to spritz more of it on which would be just like having a second cocktail.  And is that such a bad thing?

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Citrus
  • Nose:  Romano Ricci
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $100 for 50 ml eau de parfum