The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


New Release: Chypre 21 by Heeley Parfums

chypre-21WHAT I SMELL: Chypre 21 opens with a lovely rosemary tinged bergamot that feels clean and zesty.  The rosemary note adds a wonderfully different herbal twist to the opening of the perfume and is a lovely surprise.  Quickly, a saffron note joins in along with a bitter sour neroli.  The perfume is dry and rather woody, but quickly the perfume then moves to a light rose and patchouli.  As it develops the perfume is still dry, but has moved to a more pretty demeanor which is tinged with florals.  As the perfume continues to develop, the projection deepens and becomes more rounded but powdery.  After around the 30 minute mark, the perfume arrives at it prettiest point; it’s soft, powdery and dry, floral and completely comforting.

From the Heeley Parfums website:

An ode to Parisian chic

As from the early 20th century onwards, the chypre accord has undoubtedly been regarded as the quintessential French perfume. Chypre 21 however, is a creation for the 21st century whereby the main ingredients of a classic chypre: Bergamot, rose, patchouli, sandalwood and oak moss have been reworked to create a contemporary, unisex fragrance. The scent leaves behind a wonderful, slightly nostalgic trail with a certain air of Parisian chic that would have been familiar to the likes of Jackie Onassis, Grace Kelly and of course the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.

Italian Bergamot . Rosemary . Petit Grain
Neroli . Bulgarian Rose . Saffron
Musk . Oak Moss . Patchouli . Sandalwood

Cozy KittyWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A cozy kitten.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CHYPRE 21: agreeable, comfortable, easy-going


BOTTOM LINE:  If you are looking for a big dose of oak moss, you probably will be disappointed.  Instead, Chypre 21 is a comforting perfume that starts off dry and powdery, but in the end turns into a nice and agreeable patchouli and musk.  Chypre 21 is an easy wear.


Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum

Bottega-Veneta-ParfumWHAT I SMELL:  Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum opens up light and sweet with an oh so pretty bergamot that’s sparkling and fizzy.  The jasmine is lively and full of energy and it has an incredibly happy disposition.  The projection of this delightful perfume is big and rather candied.  But there’s a slight spice that keeps the candied aspects from going full-blown lollipop.  There’s not a lot of morphing with the perfume, but the addition of patchouli brings another sweet tincture to the scent and the fragrance begins to become a bit more woody and it starts to flatten.  There’s a high level of radiant projection here, but the patchouli begins to completely take over with a brush of musk.  The perfume begins to dry with an oak moss powder,  but the one spritz I applied begins to overpower.  What started off a lovely, is now turning into a shouting superpower that’s too sweet, too artificial and too in your face.  In the end, it does quiet down, but what promise there was in the beginning just makes me feel a bit tired.  What else is there to say?!

From the Bottega Veneta website:


cotton ballWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A overpefumed cotton ball.


WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BOTTEGA VENETA EAU DE PARFUM:  Now Smell This, The Candy Perfume Boy, Olfactoria’s Travels

BOTTOM LINE:  Boy, my nose missed the boat on this perfume.  If you read the other reviews, there was a much more positive experience had by most.  And the suede or leather aspects?  I got nothing of the sort and I wore this several times to see if it was just the heat, humidity, my skin at the time, etc.  I guess all perfumes are not equal when it comes to the wearer….especially in this case.  But I have to say, it does come in a lovely bottle!

  • Bone Rating:  2 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre Floral
  • Nose: Michel Almairic
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $115 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum


Vintage Dior Diorling

Vintage Dior Diorling

WHAT I SMELL:  Dior Diorling opens green, dry, mossy and quite powdery.  It has a vintage feel, but at the same time feels easily modern.  I can’t tell if the top notes are somewhat lost, but the florals are incredibly well blended.  They’re deep, rather beefy  and they feel very structured and firm.  As with Miss Dior, Diorling is pretty in a rather masculine fashion.  That’s what I love about these old classics, they are allowed to be feminine without resorting to sweetness and fruit.  The hyacinth and iris are the anchors here and combined with the moss they make for this powdered haze of sophisticated beauty.  Then add this light punch of leather to the base and you’ve got the perfume wrapped up.  There’s not a lot of development here, (although the lily of the valley pokes it head out ever now and then), but it does soften and becomes somewhat like a perfumed Angora sweater.  Overall from the beginning to the end (and it lasts), you have a classic chypre at its best.

Dior Diorling Notes:

Top notes are hyacinth and bergamot; middle notes are iris, jasmine, rose and lily-of-the-valley; base notes are vetiver, musk, patchouli, oak moss and leather.

Peanut's Pig PenWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Peanut’s Pig-Pen.  OK, to explain myself…take away the dry dusty dirt and replace with a dry dusty mossy cloud.  Besides, the perfume has a very 1960’s vibe about it which was the heyday of the Peanut’s era.  See it all makes sense now, right??!


WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DIOR DIORLING: Perfume Shrine, The Black Narcissus, Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE:  Ridiculously expensive on eBay, I found this beauty for a great price and snatched it up.  So there was a little chip on the stopper and the stopper was stuck (we perfumistas know how to conquer that!), but the perfume is divine!  I don’t think it will ever live up to my love of Miss Dior, but I get giddy every time I put this on because it’s just that good!

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre
  • Nose:  Paul Vacher
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Varies greatly.  Review based on the parfum extrait version.