The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


3 Comments

Grossmith Diamond Jubilee Bouquet

WHAT I SMELL:  Diamond Jubilee Bouquet opens with a sweet and chalky zesty citrus along with a SweeTART candy smell.  But that sweetened sensation begins to disappear quickly on it’s way to open up for a warm and rapturous bouquet of flowers highlighted with a slightly metallic rose.  After a few minutes, a tender and powdery violet pops out of the bouquet to give a perception of innocence.  And soon thereafter, the bouquet begins to really bloom with a mix of warmth and coolness making the perfume a controlled beauty; majestic and pretty without being ostentatious or off-putting.  After some more time, a light spice brings in a more serious tone while continuing with it’s overall restraint.  In the end, Diamond Jubilee Bouquet quietly powders with the lightest of sweetness.  It’s very secure in its quiet and muted beauty.

From the Grossmith website:

Grossmith’s tribute to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II is a floral tapestry for the twenty-first century.

Top Notes:  Orange, Lemon, Lily of the Valley, Narcissus

Heart Notes:  Rose, Iris, Jasmine, Violet, Vetiver, Carnation

Base Notes:  Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Hawthorn, Amber, Musk

Queen Elizabeth II

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A fitting tribute to Queen Elizabeth II.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE DIAMOND JUBILEE BOUQUET:  pretty, controlled, contained

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DIAMOND JUBILEE BOUQUET:  Undina’s Looking Glass

BOTTOM LINE:  I really want to love this perfume.   Instead, I just really, really like it.  It’s pretty, but the controlled nature and rather light projection makes it feel best suited to wear with a plain white blouse.  To wear with anything else the perfume would need to be amped up just a tad bit more.  I do think it would make for a perfect bedtime scent though.  It’s powdery floral sweetness would assist in making some wonderfully beautiful dreams.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose:  Trevor Nicholl
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense:  Approximately $310 for 50 ml eau de parfum.  Also available in 100 ml.  Limited edition.


7 Comments

New Release: Mona di Orio Dõjima

WHAT I SMELL:  Dõjima has a soft and subtle opening which quickly gives rise to a warm and milky rice and a nutty amber.  The perfume is quiet and contained and it seems to possess a zen like reverence.   While the miky rice note remains as it develops, the amber takes on more a floral hue.  And the florals seem to float above the milkiness as if they are dancing lightly atop a ripple on a quiet pond.  The remaining nutty amber seems to flicker in and out which makes the perfume lightly gourmand with hints of green tea.  Dõjima is slow to transform, but being true to the serenity of the fragrance, its gentle unfolding is like a quiet journey for the soul.

From the Mona di Orio website:

The name derives from the Dōjima Rice Exchange founded by Samurai in 1697 in Osaka, Japan. Let us travel back to this moment in time, have the beauty and serenity of a single rice grain work as your seductive armor.

Dõjima turns to powder as it combines with the warmth of the skin and a cloud of rice powder surrounded by jasmin and orris radiates through the day. The soft texture of rice is lifted by a warm powdered amber speckled with dry spices and woods on a creamy musk base.

Rice Accord, nutmeg absolue, ambrette, jasmin, orris, clary sage absolute, labdanum CO2, sandalwood and precious musks.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Lotus flowers scattered amongst the rice fields.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE DÕJIMA:  quiet, serene, balanced

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DÕJIMA:  CaFleureBon, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  I am a big fan of perfumer Fredrik Dalman, his Mona di Orio debut Bohea Boheme was one of my picks for new releases of last year.  Like Bohea Boheme, Dõjima quietly unfolds the mysteries of the east.  There is nothing brash, nor hard about this gem, but like a jewel, its beauty sparkles with a reverent dignity.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose: Fredrik Dalman
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $200 for 75 ml eau de parfum


7 Comments

Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d’Iris

Image result for bois d'irisWHAT I SMELL:  Bois d’Iris is oh so inviting when it first goes on the skin.  It’s like soft iris infused cashmere that’s lightly sweetened and tinged with sun.  The perfume feels like a late spring morning where the dew of the evening before has just evaporated off the flowers and greenery of a beautiful garden.  The iris is very contained, but nicely warmed with the lightest amber that helps to give the perfume a golden hue of radiance.  After some time, the iris retreats to make way for a buzzing labdanum.  Still golden, the perfume moves from floral to almost entirely wood.  Eventually, the perfume moves to the powdery and it becomes slightly sweeter , but the sweetness is kept contained by a dried woody vetiver.  Overall, a very easy wear.

To smell wood, to see its scent from a totally different angle, forget the idea of the forest, leaves and earth , and picture it on a beach, floating in waves, and washing up on the sand.  Driftwood warmed by the sun.  I paired it with Ambergris and Labdanaum to underscore the solar and sensual dimension of this wood.  Iris and Vetiver bring out the texture and elegance of this fragrance.

– Emilie Coppermann

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Beach bonnet.  It’s a lightly sweet floral wood tinged with the sun, with a salty woodiness that is pretty, yet elegant and refined.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BOIS d’IRIS: clean, tidy, proper

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BOIS d’IRIS:  Now Smell This, The Non-Blonde, Perfume-Smellin’ Things

BOTTOM LINE:   Bois d’Iris is sweet, pretty, rather demure, and fun in a 1950’s kind of way.  A perfect perfume for wearing at the office, or a fun day out on the town.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody
  • Nose: Emilie Coppermann
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $125 for 1.5 oz eau de parfum