The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d’Iris

Image result for bois d'irisWHAT I SMELL:  Bois d’Iris is oh so inviting when it first goes on the skin.  It’s like soft iris infused cashmere that’s lightly sweetened and tinged with sun.  The perfume feels like a late spring morning where the dew of the evening before has just evaporated off the flowers and greenery of a beautiful garden.  The iris is very contained, but nicely warmed with the lightest amber that helps to give the perfume a golden hue of radiance.  After some time, the iris retreats to make way for a buzzing labdanum.  Still golden, the perfume moves from floral to almost entirely wood.  Eventually, the perfume moves to the powdery and it becomes slightly sweeter , but the sweetness is kept contained by a dried woody vetiver.  Overall, a very easy wear.

To smell wood, to see its scent from a totally different angle, forget the idea of the forest, leaves and earth , and picture it on a beach, floating in waves, and washing up on the sand.  Driftwood warmed by the sun.  I paired it with Ambergris and Labdanaum to underscore the solar and sensual dimension of this wood.  Iris and Vetiver bring out the texture and elegance of this fragrance.

– Emilie Coppermann

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Beach bonnet.  It’s a lightly sweet floral wood tinged with the sun, with a salty woodiness that is pretty, yet elegant and refined.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BOIS d’IRIS: clean, tidy, proper

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BOIS d’IRIS:  Now Smell This, The Non-Blonde, Perfume-Smellin’ Things

BOTTOM LINE:   Bois d’Iris is sweet, pretty, rather demure, and fun in a 1950’s kind of way.  A perfect perfume for wearing at the office, or a fun day out on the town.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody
  • Nose: Emilie Coppermann
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $125 for 1.5 oz eau de parfum


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New Release: Neela Vermeire Creations Rahele

rahele“Rahele (traveller) is the newest fragrance, an ode to exotic travel, an olfactory journey in the company of 17th Century French visitors to the East.”

WHAT I SMELL:  Rahele quietly opens soft but very luxurious, with a dewy green and velvety violet, tinged with the lightest of citrus and spice.  There’s an incredible warmth that immediately draws you in.  Soon after opening, a cinnamon note moves forward making a nice balance between the florals and the lightly exotic spice.  After a few more minutes, a demure, but noticeable osmanthus comes forward.  At this point the perfume feels like a still life painting filled with the most delicate of flowers and fruit.  As the perfume continues to develop it begins to powder and dry.   Even with a projecting powder, Rahele remains incredibly subdued and meticulously blended, where no particular note stands out, but is perfection in the sum of its parts.  In the end, the lightest of leather topped by a layer of oakmoss makes this a sublime ode to French perfumery.

Notes from the Neele Vermeire Creations website:

Top Notes:  Green Mandarine, Cardamom, Cinnamon, Violet Leaf Absolute 

Heart Notes:  Osmanthus Absolute, Rose Absolute, Magnolia, Jasmine Absolute, Iris, Violet

Base Notes:  Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Leather 

17th-century-wigsWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: What I envision a 17th Century powdered wig to smell like.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE RAHELE:  powdery, proper, engaging

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RAHELE:  Megan in Sainte Maxime, AustralianPerfumeJunkies, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Rahele strays from the exotic flourishes of the other Neela Vermeire Creation perfumes in the collection, although not completely.  Rahele is all about classic french perfume and as I am a huge fan of the classics…I have to say that this might be my favorite in the collection.  But that’s like stating which of your children is your favorite…it can’t be done.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: $235 for 60 ml eau de parfum.


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Rose Emois by Molinard

molinardroseemoisWHAT I SMELL:  Rose Emois unfolds soft and sweet as baby’s breath with a slightly sugared bergamot and mint that is quickly met with a milky almond highlighted with the lightest of saffron.  A serene floral bouquet warmed by a softened sandalwood and amber make this incredibly dreamy.  The perfume is light and transparent but at the same it has a pretty powerful projection.  After a few minutes, the rose begins to break out of the dreamlike haze of warmth.  The rose is subdued and deep and thorny without being heavy.  The sandalwood and amber anchor the perfume making the perfume feel more ambered than rose.  After some more time, an oudish note is added making the perfume feel more exotic.  As the perfume continues to develop, the oud note becomes more prominent and the perfume becomes more powdery, but there is a slight bite (no doubt from the oud note) that is a bit discordant.  I do wish the perfume would return to the beginning, but instead, it remains in this oudish rose colored powdered haze.  That’s not a bad thing, it’s just that the opening and middle phase was just so breathtakingly beautiful.

From Molinard:

Caressing scents in tender intuitions, sharing confidence for confidence … this harmonious fragrance cultivates its chosen affinities.  Carved from a rose, its natural whimsicality carries it irresistibly to floral allegories … and abandons itself secretly to the enveloping waves where man and woman meet, and make no more than one …

Top notes are bergamot, mint and almond; middle notes are jasmine, rose, saffron and ylang-ylang; base notes are musk, sandalwood, amber and ylang-ylang.

asian-tapestriesWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A vibrant Indian tapestry full of color and infused with the exotic smells of the market.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ROSE EMOIS:  dreamy, royal, serious

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ROSE EMOIS: No reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE: Rose Emois is part of Molinard’s La Collection Privee. Besides the classic Habanita, you don’t hear much about Molinard.  Their perfumes, albeit somewhat hard to find, are pretty and easy to wear.  This is no exception.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Approximately $180 for 100 ml eau de parfum.