The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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New Release: Mona di Orio Dõjima

WHAT I SMELL:  Dõjima has a soft and subtle opening which quickly gives rise to a warm and milky rice and a nutty amber.  The perfume is quiet and contained and it seems to possess a zen like reverence.   While the miky rice note remains as it develops, the amber takes on more a floral hue.  And the florals seem to float above the milkiness as if they are dancing lightly atop a ripple on a quiet pond.  The remaining nutty amber seems to flicker in and out which makes the perfume lightly gourmand with hints of green tea.  Dõjima is slow to transform, but being true to the serenity of the fragrance, its gentle unfolding is like a quiet journey for the soul.

From the Mona di Orio website:

The name derives from the Dōjima Rice Exchange founded by Samurai in 1697 in Osaka, Japan. Let us travel back to this moment in time, have the beauty and serenity of a single rice grain work as your seductive armor.

Dõjima turns to powder as it combines with the warmth of the skin and a cloud of rice powder surrounded by jasmin and orris radiates through the day. The soft texture of rice is lifted by a warm powdered amber speckled with dry spices and woods on a creamy musk base.

Rice Accord, nutmeg absolue, ambrette, jasmin, orris, clary sage absolute, labdanum CO2, sandalwood and precious musks.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Lotus flowers scattered amongst the rice fields.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE DÕJIMA:  quiet, serene, balanced

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DÕJIMA:  CaFleureBon, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  I am a big fan of perfumer Fredrik Dalman, his Mona di Orio debut Bohea Boheme was one of my picks for new releases of last year.  Like Bohea Boheme, Dõjima quietly unfolds the mysteries of the east.  There is nothing brash, nor hard about this gem, but like a jewel, its beauty sparkles with a reverent dignity.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose: Fredrik Dalman
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $200 for 75 ml eau de parfum


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Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d’Iris

Image result for bois d'irisWHAT I SMELL:  Bois d’Iris is oh so inviting when it first goes on the skin.  It’s like soft iris infused cashmere that’s lightly sweetened and tinged with sun.  The perfume feels like a late spring morning where the dew of the evening before has just evaporated off the flowers and greenery of a beautiful garden.  The iris is very contained, but nicely warmed with the lightest amber that helps to give the perfume a golden hue of radiance.  After some time, the iris retreats to make way for a buzzing labdanum.  Still golden, the perfume moves from floral to almost entirely wood.  Eventually, the perfume moves to the powdery and it becomes slightly sweeter , but the sweetness is kept contained by a dried woody vetiver.  Overall, a very easy wear.

To smell wood, to see its scent from a totally different angle, forget the idea of the forest, leaves and earth , and picture it on a beach, floating in waves, and washing up on the sand.  Driftwood warmed by the sun.  I paired it with Ambergris and Labdanaum to underscore the solar and sensual dimension of this wood.  Iris and Vetiver bring out the texture and elegance of this fragrance.

– Emilie Coppermann

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Beach bonnet.  It’s a lightly sweet floral wood tinged with the sun, with a salty woodiness that is pretty, yet elegant and refined.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BOIS d’IRIS: clean, tidy, proper

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BOIS d’IRIS:  Now Smell This, The Non-Blonde, Perfume-Smellin’ Things

BOTTOM LINE:   Bois d’Iris is sweet, pretty, rather demure, and fun in a 1950’s kind of way.  A perfect perfume for wearing at the office, or a fun day out on the town.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody
  • Nose: Emilie Coppermann
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $125 for 1.5 oz eau de parfum


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New Release: Neela Vermeire Creations Rahele

rahele“Rahele (traveller) is the newest fragrance, an ode to exotic travel, an olfactory journey in the company of 17th Century French visitors to the East.”

WHAT I SMELL:  Rahele quietly opens soft but very luxurious, with a dewy green and velvety violet, tinged with the lightest of citrus and spice.  There’s an incredible warmth that immediately draws you in.  Soon after opening, a cinnamon note moves forward making a nice balance between the florals and the lightly exotic spice.  After a few more minutes, a demure, but noticeable osmanthus comes forward.  At this point the perfume feels like a still life painting filled with the most delicate of flowers and fruit.  As the perfume continues to develop it begins to powder and dry.   Even with a projecting powder, Rahele remains incredibly subdued and meticulously blended, where no particular note stands out, but is perfection in the sum of its parts.  In the end, the lightest of leather topped by a layer of oakmoss makes this a sublime ode to French perfumery.

Notes from the Neele Vermeire Creations website:

Top Notes:  Green Mandarine, Cardamom, Cinnamon, Violet Leaf Absolute 

Heart Notes:  Osmanthus Absolute, Rose Absolute, Magnolia, Jasmine Absolute, Iris, Violet

Base Notes:  Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Leather 

17th-century-wigsWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: What I envision a 17th Century powdered wig to smell like.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE RAHELE:  powdery, proper, engaging

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RAHELE:  Megan in Sainte Maxime, AustralianPerfumeJunkies, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Rahele strays from the exotic flourishes of the other Neela Vermeire Creation perfumes in the collection, although not completely.  Rahele is all about classic french perfume and as I am a huge fan of the classics…I have to say that this might be my favorite in the collection.  But that’s like stating which of your children is your favorite…it can’t be done.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: $235 for 60 ml eau de parfum.