The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


4 Comments

Zoologist Snowy Owl

WHAT I SMELL:  Snowy Owl opens with bright reflective aldehydic snow and the smell of freshly turned earth.  Quickly, it begins to move to the cool and fresh along with a cottony finish that feels light and fluffy.  There’s a wonderfully light herbal hint of mint, but its portrayal is much more attuned to the smell of warmed faux fur that lines the inside of worn leather gloves.  As the perfume continues to develop, light and soft florals seem to pop out from the snow and once again the smell of moist earth begins to emerge as if the frozen ground has melted to reveal some hints of spring.  The perfume at this point is soft and inviting and quite powdery and it feels as if it has been lightly applied to the skin with the softest makeup brush.  As Snowy Owl continues to develop, it begins to strengthen just a bit and the light florals make way for a radiating amber tinged woodiness.  In the end, the perfume feels as if it is full of contained energy that’s held secure within a cocooned wrap of musk.

From the Zoologist Perfumes website:

A thick carpet of silver envelops the landscape, untouched but for the dazzling reflection of the sun. Snow stretches as far as the eye can see, while a bitter wind rolls silently across the sky, its hush barely broken by the powerful beat of an ivory wing. Despite the stillness of the arctic, the snowy owl senses a flutter beneath the icy crust far below. Through snowy tunnels voles scamper, oblivious to their fate. A warm glow stirs within the breast of the majestic bird as it dives, confident in its mastery over the frigid kingdom.

Zoologist Snowy Owl glides on with a minty opening, while the gentle warmth of musk combines with beautiful hints of snowdrops, lily of the valley and iris. Sweet coconut and woody vanilla swoop in to surprise and entice. Snowy Owl merges cool vitality with exquisite softness in a captivating scent, ideal for those who aren’t afraid to take what they desire.

Top Notes: Snow Accord, Lily of the Valley, Mint, Coconut
Heart Notes: Iris, Snowdrop, White Rose, Mate, Frankincense, Galbanum
Base Notes: Ambrette, Cedar, Civet, Musk, Oakmoss, Tonka, Vanilla

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  I can’t argue with the fact that this perfume captures the spirit of the snowy owl and it’s winter environment.  But what I can add is that it’s a very well dressed snowy owl at that.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SNOWY OWL:  soft, enticing, engaging

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SNOWY OWL:  Now Smell This, The Sniff, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  The first half of the development of Snowy Owl is wonderfully delightful and you can feel the cool air of the snowy landscape swirl around you as you wear it.  I just wish it would have remained in the soft and pretty for a greater amount of time.  Maybe like snow, all it requires is an occasional dusting to keep it in the “pretty” realm?

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Dawn Spencer Hurwitz
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $165 for 60 ml parfum extrait.  Also available in 10 ml travel spray.

 


2 Comments

New Release: Zoologist Chameleon

WHAT I SMELL:  Chameleon unfolds on first spritz all soft and warm with delicious, bergamot, edible fruits and ylang ylang.  Surprisingly it’s not too juicy or really sweet…instead it’s just so very inviting.  In fact, it feels as if you’re walking down the street and you catch a whiff of a fragrant tree whose rapturous scent grabs your attention with its intoxicating spell.  After a short while, the perfume delivers a creamy accord of frangipani that really begins to radiate off the skin.  Underneath it floats a layer of sandalwood in the same vein of Guerlain’s Samsara (and that’s a good thing).  After some more time, a light chalkiness enters which soon begins to powder slightly after which the creaminess returns which a small dose of sweet.  The perfume then quiets to the perfect stage of just the right amount of creamy, sweet and floral.  Chameleon is everything tropical, but instead of overpowering the wearer with heavy handed florals, instead you seem to float in sun drenched flowers dancing in a sun-kissed breeze.

From the Zoologist Perfumes website:

Madagascar, home to half of the world’s species of chameleons, holds the key to Zoologist Chameleon. Like the kaleidoscope of hues that swirl within the flesh of these exotic creatures, ylang dances with delicate frangipani upon your skin in a melody of creamy florals, while aphrodisiac vanilla blends with salty, silky musks to envelop you in the fruity, exotic atmosphere of the island. Whether you desire to shroud yourself in an air of mystery, or blatantly flaunt your true colours, Chameleon becomes you.

Top Notes:  Bergamot, Lemon, Madagascar Ylang Ylang, Mango, Pink Pepper, Star Fruit, Violet Leaves
Heart Notes:  Cashmeran, Clove, Coconut, Frangipani, Jasmine, Saffron, Salty Skin Accord, Sea Breeze
Base Notes:  Amber, Woods, Musks, Opoponax, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   Vintage tropical florals.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHAMELEON:  colorful, calming, sunny

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHAMELEON:  Ventvenir, Colognoisseur, Nose Dives

BOTTOM LINE:  This is my kind of tropical perfume.  It all about being “not too.”  That means it’s balanced perfectly and it’s perfectly modern with a vintage bend.  Chameleon is summer fun….but of course, “not too” much fun!

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Nose:  Daniel Pescio
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $145 for 60 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.

 


17 Comments

New Release: Civet by Zoologist Perfumes

zoologistcivetWHAT I SMELL:  Civet opens with a warmed spiced orange and bergamot which reminds me of clove filled orange pomanders that you see during the winter holidays.  The warmth begins to lighten quickly as the perfume beams soft and pretty with a lovely and light tuberose coming to the center.  But very quickly, the perfume becomes highly radiant and makes its presence known.  After a bit, a soured citrus comes forward which then melds into a light civet.  The perfume moves from a pretty floral luminosity to a slightly rebellious feel.  Still pretty, there’s a light bite that gives the perfume a more interesting presence and depth. As it continuous to develop, a hay like flatness keeps the perfume grounded.  At the same time, the projected radiance dissipates and the perfume dances around the floral heart, along with a musky and slightly urinous interplay with hints of coffee and leather.  Civet is wonderfully complex, yet so smooth and easy to wear.

From the Zoologist Perfumes website:

Zoologist Civet pays homage to the age-old ingredient, civet, as well as chypre perfumes of bygone days – perfumes that refused to be intimidated by raw, alluring, animalistic musks. Civet is a moody and complex brew entwined in mystery. It opens with a spicy floral accord, threaded through with dark coffee tones. Slowly it prowls forward, unraveling base notes of leather, moss and vanilla that combines with distinctive civet musk to create a bewildering, sophisticated scent with the promise of a sultry nighttime rendezvous.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Black Pepper, Lemon, Orange, Spices, Tarragon
Heart Notes: Carnation, Frangipani, Heliotrope, Hyacinth, Linden-blossom, Tuberose, Ylang
Base Notes: Balsams, Civet, Coffee, Incense, Labdanum, Musks, Oakmoss, Resins, Russian Leather, Vanilla, Vetiver, Woods 

nancy-spungen-profile

Nancy Spungen

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Nancy Spungen of Sid and Nancy fame…a little pretty, a little dirty, a little punk.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CIVET:  careworn, enigmatic, nuanced

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CIVET:  AustralianPerfumeJunkies, Cafleurebon

BOTTOM LINE:  Perfumer Shelley Waddington has created a complex beauty that blends seamlessly to reveal many nuances throughout the wear.  With the name Civet, I was worried that this would be a perfume would be rather funky.  Instead, she added just the right amount of civet to enhance the subdued florals.  Civet is a really lovely perfume.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Aromatic
  • Nose: Shelley Waddington
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $125 for 60 ml eau de parfum