The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.

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Goldfield & Banks Purple Suede

WHAT I SMELL:  Purple Suede opens with a dry and warm sweet and smoky leathered lavender that is soon met with a pronounced suede.  It’s inviting and wonderfully soft in tone and texture.  The perfume moderates the leather with the lavender as if the leather contains a powder from a lavender sachet.  This powdery mixture is muted and surprisingly dreamlike like for a leather perfume.  But of course as soon as I write about how soft and muted it is, Purple Suede begins to turn to the more robust with an undercurrent of peppered oud that begins to push itself in from beneath.  The leather begins to sharpen, and to me, turns from the unisex to the more masculine with a deep and increasingly heavy presence with a nod to the funky with the addition of civet.  Thankfully after awhile the leather comes back into play, but it never returns to the soft and muted suede that I liked at the beginning of the journey.

From the Goldfield & Banks website:

An olfactory imagination expressing the scent of aromatic fields of sunburnt lavender, where blossoms are crisped by the fierce heat of the sun. Paired with the scent of rust-coloured saddles, this sensual perfume reveals a distinctively rich and dry sillage. A contemporary and unexpected take on lavender and leather. 

Botanical & Essences – Lavender Tasmania, Pink Pepper Reunion Island, Hyssop Flowers France, Woodleather, Patchouli Indonesia, Oakmoss, Civet, Amber, Oud

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Little John, played by Alan Hale Sr. in The Adventures of Robin Hood (1938).   A nice enough fella with a good demeanor, but who might need to clean up just a bit.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PURPLE SUEDE:  potent, funkified, robust


BOTTOM LINE:  I loved the opening of Purple Suede and found that the soft lavender infused leather demeanor that was initially there was pretty and calming.  Unfortunately, with the addition of the civet and oud, the perfume took a path that didn’t appeal to me.  Not bad, but not a love either.    

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Aromatic Leather
  • Classification: Unisex, but leans masculine
  • Expense: $235 for 100ml parfum extrait



Thameen Royal Sapphire

WHAT I SMELL:  Royal Sapphire opens with an invitingly sweet combination of bergamot and mandarin that quickly begins to warm and infuse itself with the biggest, most full bodied jasmine.  It’s heady, it’s intoxicating and it’s almost bubblegum sweet.  I might be turned off by that, but the finish of the mandarin and orange blossom seems to hold back the surprising boldness of it all.  Now all I have to do is to wait and see if it begins to retreat…and after some time it begins to.  After a short while, the jasmine begins to even out and a very subtle, flattened grey amber begins to lift towards the florals from below.  As such, the sweetened boldness turns more towards the cashmere.  At this point the perfume begins to soften and become a bit fuzzy with just a hint of powder.  And ever so quietly, the perfume begins its journey to the pretty as some patchouli brings a lightly sweetened finish to the now muted jasmine and the dried and powdery woods.  Don’t get me wrong, Royal Sapphire never really quiets to a point that it becomes mild and meek, instead it remains quite bold throughout it’s life.  Royal Sapphire cannot be called a shrinking violet.

From the Thameen London website:

The bright blue sapphires of the Crown Jewels are treasured by the British Royal Family and form the inspiration for this enchanting new fragrance. With the delicate combination of bergamot, mandarin and amber, Royal Sapphire fragrance recreates the desired depth and dazzling brilliance of the crown jewels. This fragrance is Thameen’s Jewel in the Crown.

Top Notes: Bergamot, mandarin
Heart Notes: Orange blossom, jasmine
Base Notes: Grey amber, patchouli, moss, amber, dry wood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Royal Sapphire is less like sapphire jewelry and more like a cozy and comfortable sapphire colored throw.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ROYAL SAPPHIRE:  pronounced, comfortable, different


BOTTOM LINE:  A member of the Sovereign collection, Royal Sapphire is my first foray into the Thameen line of perfumes.  I like it…but can’t say I love it.  Overall it’s a nice perfume that could be worn on any occasion especially if you want to be noticed.   

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Amber Woody
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $285 for 50ml parfum extrait

* Sample provided by Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.

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Atelier Materi Santal Blond

WHAT I SMELL:  Santal Blond opens with a warmed cardamom infused bergamot that quickly moves to a putty like chewy jasmine with a deep undertow of sandalwood.  The chewiness seems to last but for a minute as it moves more to a puffy cotton ball cloud of a dream.  Mixed within the cloud is just a hint of bourbon which has a lightly caramel sugared feel to it.  Overall, the perfume is full of projection but in a very soft and light manner as if it’s drifting off the air in the breeze.  As the perfume continues to develop it really begins to move to the woody and become linear in the most wonderful of ways.  What I mean is that it seems to lessen in it’s complexity to create this very intimate sheen of warm and soft sandalwood without any harsh edges.  

From the Atelier Materi website:

Sacred tree, sandalwood is a peculiar exotic wood. Once distilled, powerful velvety, creamy notes with smoky undertones are unleashed.

In SANTAL BLOND, the perfumer Lucas Sieuzac selects an exceptional natural sandalwood from Australia and chooses to reveal its luminous facets.

After a fresh and spicy opening carried by the cardamom, the perfumer pairs the sandalwood with rich floral jasmine notes and warm Tonka bean accents.

A gentle and luminous sandalwood with a discreet elegance.

Notes –

Top: Bergamot, Cardamom

Heart: Jasmine, Sandalwood

Base: Hinoki Bourbon, Tonka Bean

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Moonlit woods.



BOTTOM LINE:  Santal Blond isn’t a perfume that I find to be incredibly unique, but I do find that it’s calming and very easy to wear.  Plus, I do think it’s a perfume that could be a shapeshifter depending on your mood or the occasion you’re wearing it for.  

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Amber Woody
  • Nose:  Lucas Sieuzac
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $260 for 100ml eau de parfum

* Sample provided by Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.