The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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The Scented Hound’s Best of 2016

2016-62016 is already gone and once again I am running behind with posting.  But before we head officially into 2017, I am going to give my wrap up on this past year.  Now, I can’t claim I was able to experience all of the new releases this past year (actually, I don’t believe there were enough days in the year to accommodate all the industry had to offer)…but instead will cite which ones that I thought were special.  So let’s get to it:

The best of 2016:

Rendezvous by DSH Perfumes – Dawn Spencer Horowitz continues to create incredibly memorable perfumes with her very distinctive signature style.  With Rendezvous, she took a decaying floral and made it magnificent.  These days it takes a lot to make a perfume hit me on an emotional level, but this beauty did.  And I don’t think that this perfume got the love it deserves.

Stones by Atelier de Geste – When you take the green beauty of Chanel No. 19 and mix it with an earthy blend, you get the incredibly modern Stones.  This limited edition perfume was a surprise to me and again I haven’t heard any buzz around it.

Mona di Orio Bohea Bohème – Bohea Bohème was perfumer Fredrik Dalman’s first creation for the house of Mona di Orio.  The tea based perfume is a subtle testament to Mona’s legacy.  Quiet and unassuming,  Bohea Bohème is all about the quiet journey.  I look forward to seeing what Fredrik creates next.

prizepage-image-image-2-dogphotoLesquendieu le Parfum by J. Lesquendieu – 2016 saw the reemergence of the house of J. Lesquendieu.  The classic line of legacy perfumes were once again available for the lucky few who can afford these beauties.  Easily the best of the re-releases is Lesquendieu le Parfum.  Uncomplicated, but oh so pretty, you can see why true luxury comes at a price.  Smooth as silk…if only I could afford a bottle myself!

Arbolé Arbolé by Hiram Green – The release of Arbolé Arbolé came as a bit of a surprise as Hiram Green had launched Dilettante a few months prior.  But I’m glad that he did release this very nostalgic velvety smooth creation.  Hiram’s work is always top of the line…here he’s at his best.

Chanel No. 5 L’Eau – Light and refreshing and sparkling with modernity.  This No. 5 flanker is superb even if you’re not a big fan of the original.  This perfume just makes me so incredibly happy.

L’Atessa by Masque Milano – Unique is hard to come by these days…L’Atessa certainly is with its yeasty champagne fizz which gives way to a lovely powdered floral drydown.  Add that to the most exquisitely redesigned signature perfume bottle, Masque Milano has hit it out of the park with this release.

The perfumes of Parfums Dusita – Perfumer Pissara Umavijani debuted 3 perfumes in 2015, but I didn’t experience them until this year…so as far as I’m concerned, they’re part of this year’s “best of.”  So which one is the best?  Hard to say which one I like the best, the sensual white floral, Melodie de L’Amour; the refined Ouhd Infini or the modern fougere Issara?  I can’t choose because all three deserve recognition.  There are two new perfumes in the line which I have yet to experience…this time I won’t wait a year to do so.

The worst of 2016:

I don’t like doing the worst because perfume is an individual taste…what you might not like, others may love.  But there was one perfume this past year that just hit me incredibly wrong and that was…

Tauerville Fruitchouli Flash – This super sweet and thick concoction gave me a cavity by just smelling it.  Sorry Andy.

So given all of these beauties from this past year, what did I end up wearing for the most part?  I really pretty much stuck to the classics.  My most worn perfume of 2016 was Mitsouko, the parfum extrait, which I just craved over and over again.  The 2nd most worn perfume was Chanel Beige which is just so easy to love.  Maybe 2017 will provide me with a new classic that I won’t be able to stay away from.

Happy New Year from The Scented Hound!


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New Release: Arbolé Arbolé by Hiram Green

arbole_arbole_box

Oooooh, I love a Hiram Green perfume and can’t wait to see what this new creation has to behold…

WHAT I SMELL:  Arbolé Arbolé opens with a putty like chewy patchouli that feels encased in a light rubber or elastic.  It’s pretty, but also has this futuristic feel (futuristic like what we thought the future would be like in the 1960s)…as such, it has vintage futuristic vibe.   Soon, the opening kick to futuristic nostalgia adds a citrus and woody edge that moves the rubberized consistency away, although there is still a bit of a putty edge to the perfume.  After some more time a warmed base emerges with a chewy, thickened vanilla…and the perfume really starts to project.  Once again the chewy moves away and the perfume begins to dry considerably.  Here, the perfume radiates this calming lightly sweet rich vanilla that’s tamed by the tonka bean…and the perfume reminds me of something in my youth, but I just can’t put my finger on it.  But I can tell you that it’s a warm fuzzy connection.  Continuing on, the perfume becomes velvety smooth as if the ingredients were lightly warmed to create seamless infusion.  In the end, the perfume deepens, still smooth, still creamy with a light powder.  I absolutely love this perfume.

From the Hiram Green website:

Hiram Green’s latest perfume, Arbolé Arbolé, is a warm and woody fragrance that takes its name and spirit from Lorca’s eponymous poem. Ostensibly simple, yet subtly complex, this is an unashamedly romantic fragrance for those who dare to dream.

Arbolé Arbolé opens with a burst of earthy patchouli that slowly merges with rich cedar wood and velvety sandalwood. Vanilla and tonka bean anchor the fragrance and provide a sweet and powdery base.

The following is Hiram’s inspiration from Frederico Lorca:

Arbolé, Arbolé

Tree, tree
dry and green.

The girl with the pretty face 
is out picking olives. 
The wind, playboy of towers, 
grabs her around the waist. 
Four riders passed by
on Andalusian ponies, 
with blue and green jackets 
and big, dark capes. 
“Come to Cordoba, muchacha.” 
The girl won’t listen to them. 
Three young bullfighters passed, 
slender in the waist, 
with jackets the color of oranges 
and swords of ancient silver. 
“Come to Sevilla, muchacha.” 
The girl won’t listen to them. 
When the afternoon had turned
dark brown, with scattered light, 
a young man passed by, wearing 
roses and myrtle of the moon. 
“Come to Granada, muchacha.” 
And the girl won’t listen to him. 
The girl with the pretty face
keeps on picking olives 
with the grey arm of the wind 
wrapped around her waist.
Tree, tree
dry and green.

suburban-lifeWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Suburban living in the 60s…family, optimism and life was good (based on my childhood memories).

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ARBOLÉ ARBOLÉ: nostalgic, reassuring, unique

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ARBOLÉ ARBOLÉ: Take One Thing Off, Jaroslav Blog (in Polish), AustralianPerfumeJunkies

BOTTOM LINE:  Hiram has done it again…and I have to say as much as I loved Moon Bloom, this perfume may be my favorite yet.  Some perfumers just seem to connect with you…Hiram certainly does with me.  In reading “What I Smell” above, you wouldn’t think that words like “putty” and “chewy” would lead to love, but it does.  Absolutely beautiful.

  • Bone Rating:  5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent Woody
  • Nose: Hiram Green
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $135 Euro for 50 ml eau de parfum.  Hiram is currently running a special on his website, purchase the 50 ml bottle and get a 10 ml travel size for free.  Perfect to keep for yourself, or to give as a stocking stuffer for someone you love!

Sample courtesy of Hiram Green.  Opinion my own.


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New Release: Hiram Green Dilettante

DilettanteWHAT I SMELL:  My first impression of Dilettante begins with a light earthy soil note mixed with a minty soapiness resting on top.  Quickly, the earthy moves towards a green tinted orange blossom that at first is rather linear and flattened, but as it progresses becomes puffed liked a cloud with just the lightest of sweetness.  The perfume at this point has a very carefree bounce about it.  Dilettante is seemingly happy, at the same time it feels like its holding a secret and it’s not going to let you know why it’s in such a good mood, but there’s a reason for it…it’s just not telling!  Soon a bit of mentholated tuberose comes to join the orange, but there’s only just a little to add just the right amount of texture and spice.  The perfume then begins to deepen and expand.  What was so much sun and fun now becomes contemplative.  Here the perfume rests its feet under the late afternoon sun with a warm embrace of orange blossom met with an ambered hue and a buttery honeyed finish.

From the Hiram Green website:

It is the sun shining on the rain and the rain falling on the sunshine…

Frances Hodgson Burnett

Inspired by such simple pleasures as a stroll through a luscious garden after a rain shower, Hiram Green’s latest perfume, Dilettante, is an enchanted and light-hearted celebration of summer.

Based on a triptych of orange flower, petitgrain and essential oil of orange, Dilettante is an all-natural fruity and floral eau de parfum that is fresh and sweet throughout.

Still Life with Orange Chair

Still Life with Orange Chair – Anne Redpath

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Orange Blossom comfort.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE DILETTANTE: relaxing, reassuring, at-peace

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DILETTANTE: Kafkaesque, CaFleureBon, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: Hiram Green does it again.  The fact that he doesn’t rush the creation process with numerous and frequent releases is apparent as his perfumes are consistently well blended and full of depth.  Dilettante is the perfect antidote for those hot, hazy quiet days of summer.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Nose: Hiram Green
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $165 for 50 ml eau de parfum