The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Sultan Pasha Attars: Chypre Chrysantheme

WHAT I SMELL:  Chypre Chrysantheme opens with a citrus blend that ebbs and tides off of the skin with the lemon verbena becoming more prominent as the florals dance in the background.  The soft and lively florals are indistinguishable at this point as they continue to whirl over a lightly powdered oakmoss.  However, it’s not too long before a rose begins to bloom.  It’s slightly metallic and it demands attention.  What’s really interesting is that at this point the various components in the perfume bounce in a kinetic energy as if the fragrance had been bottled before it had a chance to settle.  And that just makes the perfume that more interesting and exciting as you just don’t know what to expect next.  As the perfume continues to develop, a base layer that is thickened with beeswax appears and it seems to be infused with just the slightest of of smoke and honey.  Here the perfume begins to settle and the kinetic energy makes way for a smooth wave of florals.  And when I say wave, it does feel as if they glide in over the beeswax in waves.  The chrysanthemum absolute at this point is front and center and it’s beyond gorgeous.  But in all, the florals are warm and thickened with just the right amount of muted sweetness.  After quite some time, the sweetness begins to settle into a deepened state and a spiced note attaches itself to the florals making the perfume a bit more mysterious.  And it’s here where the perfume rests; soft, but not quiet with just the right amount of mystery for the perfect state of grace.

I should note that every time I wear Chypre Chrysantheme it projects differently each time and new facets seem to come forward depending on the temperature, humidity and possibly even my mood.  And that makes the perfume even that more interesting and special.

Notes from the Sultan Pasha website:

Top:  Lime, Lemon, bergamot, Lemon Verbena, Rosa Alba Otto, jasmine Absolute,

Middle:  Chrysanthemum Absolute, hyacinth accord, Damascena Rose Absolute, Centifollia Rose Absolute, lily of the valley accord, Coffee absolute, Clary sage, honey absolute. 

Base:  Oakmoss, tonka absolute, Civet, white ambergris, beeswax, aged patchouli, musk, labdanum, Madagascan vanilla, Siamese benzoin, Seaweed Absolute, styrax, castoreum, olibanum, Sandalwood Mysore, bourbon Vetiver and much, much more 

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The mystery of the chrysanthemum.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHYPRE CHRYSANTHEME: energizing, inviting, divine

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHYPRE CHRYSANTHEME:  CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Sultan Pasha has a gift from the gods.  The beauty that emanates from his perfumes is pure grace.  I’ve never really thought about chrysanthemum as a perfume note, but here it is and it’s beyond sublime.  Yes, I know I’m gushing, but I can’t help but not.

  • Bone Rating:  5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental
  • Nose: Sultan Pasha
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Starting at approximately $65 for 1 ml perfume oil via the Sultan Pasha website.


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Sarah Baker Perfumes – Bascule

SB BasculeWHAT I SMELL:   Bascule opens with a buzzing bergamot that is quickly met with a weighted ripened peach and a soft, but soured leather.  The perfume is not sweet, nor juicy, but is more dried and grassy as it begins to project.  It’s as if it resides in a wind swept field that holds sun dried orchard fruit.  You immediately take notice that Bascule is a perfume that is not rooted in the city.  And as such, even if you’re an urban dweller that never travels outside the city limits, you’ll be immediately transported to the countryside.  As the perfume continues to develop, a green note comes forward, but the perfume remains in the dry realm, but the green makes the perfume feel a bit lighter and more approachable and carefree.  Here the perfume remains, nicely green with a dried soft leather on top of a hay accord with tufts of tobacco.  It’s just the right amount of earthy countryside for even the most confirmed city slicker.

From the Sarah Baker Perfumes website:

Horses, hay and leather. The sun-ripened notes of succulent fruit, woods and prominent green notes amidst a notable bass of earthy tones and noblesse oblige. Equestrian.

Notes: grass, peach, bergamot, lily of the valley, hay, leather accord, vetiver, amber, musk, fir, tobacco, metal tack.

windswept grassy hillWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A windswept grassy hill.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BASCULE:  green, earthy, unique

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BASCULENotetaking, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  Bascule is wonderfully unique and I was surprised at just how green it becomes in the drydown.  The green dried grass with just the hint of leather transports the wearer to the country in the most wonderful of ways.  Nice job Sarah Baker!

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Leather
  • Nose: Ashley Eden Kessler
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $95 for 50 ml eau de parfum


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Chanel Le Lion

le-lion-chanel-nuevo-perfume-fragancia-leon-1WHAT I SMELL:  Le Lion goes on the skin with an ambered bergamot and lemon that is tinged with patchouli in an opening that is is warm, yet light and inviting.  There is no mistake that the DNA of Le Lion is aligned with Guerlain’s classic Shalimar.  But to me, the biggest difference is the lemon and citrus which remains front and center which lifts the perfume up to something that is lighter, a tad brighter and much more approachable and easy to wear.  Le Lion doesn’t morph all that much, but as it does wear, a puttied sandalwood makes it way under the other notes and the entire composition begins to lighten.

From the Chanel website:

Gabrielle Chanel was born on August 19, 1883, under the sign of Leo. Majestic, indomitable and wild, the lion is more than just her astrological symbol; it also embodies Mademoiselle’s radiant personality and serves as inspiration for this powerful fragrance.

Faceted with a rich amber accord and featuring bold notes of bergamot, lemon, patchouli and sandalwood, the scent evokes the spirit of CHANEL.

Chill LionWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A chill lion.  Modern; made for today.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE LE LIONcomfortable, easy, Shalimar-lite

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LE LION:  Persolaise, The Black Narcissus, Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE:  I like Le Lion and could see myself wearing this often as it’s an amber perfume that doesn’t set out to be too heavy.  The citrus remains afloat above the patchouli and sandalwood to give it just enough of that clean Chanel finish that is so easy to love.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Amber
  • Nose:  Olivier Polge
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $200 for 2.5 oz. eau de parfum