The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Hermetica Eterniris

WHAT I SMELL:  Eterniris opens with a soft suede that’s lightly sugared and slightly creamy as the iris makes its way in with a buttery finish.  It’s incredibly soothing, yet full of life.  An herbal tone adds a dimension that moves the perfume towards the forest as a cedarwood follows right behind the mixture of herbs.  At this point, the perfume begins to warm and radiate and deepen.   As the journey towards the forest continues, the perfume moves more to the chypre with a dry powder that pushes the perfume off of the skin.  The perfume is unique, absolutely intoxicating and a rather stunning forcefield of a perfume because it seems to wrap you up in its enticing elixir.  After quite some time, a quiet and subdued rose pulses occasionally from the middle of the fragrance adding a floral note as the iris seems to be cocooned in the middle of the wood.  But lily of the valley is the floral center that keeps the perfume in the pretty with it’s soft and demure persona.  Much later, a light smoky incense oud begins to line the bottom of the wood.  Ever so soft, it provides the perfect base for the beautiful florals making Eterniris a serenely beautiful creation.

From the Hermetica website:

ETERN(ITY): endless time, a boundless, perpetual expanse, an unknown voyage. For a fragrance, it is about continually prolonging the olfactory thrill, patiently accompanying it with a trail, never losing the thread of iris, stretching it out. Eternity on the horizon, Eterniris immortalises a powdery, woody, refined, sensual ideal on the skin. As if in slow motion, suspended, radiating a magnetic force, ever so gently.

The Eau de Parfum Eterniris leads you in a most surprising composition: the concrete of iris plays a totally new duet with the oud oil. this perfume shows all its uniqueness and richness by revealing a white bouquet thanks to the lily of the valley molecule.

Complementary notes: pepper, bulgarian rose oil, jasmine, raspberry, cedarwood, geranium, orris, nutmeg, clove, musk, amber, vetiver, vanilla, tonka, myrrh, patchouli oil

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  An ancient wooden boat that has been infused with the smells of years of the selling of herbs, spices and flowers.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ETERNIRIS:  serene, wise, stunning

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ETERNIRIS:  None found.

BOTTOM LINE:  Eterniris is an incredibly beautiful perfume.  Its’ soft florals supported by serene incensed wood is just what’s needed for these continually chaotic times.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Fruity
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  Starting at $100 for 50 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.


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Cartier – L’Heure Promise

WHAT I SMELL:  Promise opens with a soft and cottony musky iris that is quickly infused with a combination of herbs that are too light to distinguish or specify.  The perfume is so transparent and barely there that unless I stick my nose in my arm, I’m not able to smell much, if anything.  As the perfume develops, the lightest of wood draws the perfume back from the iris and musk and moves it to a light paper pulp.  But as soon as I say that, the iris comes gliding gracefully back to the center of the perfume.  Promise is a sheer fragrance where the iris is warmed by a light sunny sandalwood.  It’s beautiful, but it’s so barely there at the beginning that you wonder if you sprayed anything on at all.  Thankfully, as the perfume wears, it begins to grow, but it never deviates from the warmed iris that first came forward; except for the addition of a wonderful powder that helps the perfume to radiate in just the right way.

From the Cartier website:

It was time to capture a life full of fresh early mornings, Petit grain, FRESH HERBS at the dawn of intentions. Everything seemed possible – love, creation, belief. The time had come to embrace the day, comforted by self-confidence and honesty IRIS, and to fly or walk in the first glimmers of a spring of existence. The sheer newness was just waiting to be explored like an undiscovered continent bathed in hope, with the promise of cherishing the moment a little longer while everything remained quiet. Prolonging, preserving the moment: L’HEURE PROMISE by Cartier. An eiderdown of fragrance sandalwood, for leaving the night behind without affronting sleep. Outside, I sense, like a veil of tulle MUSK NOTES, my own deciding scent – that of my destiny unfolding and of an adventure that is anxious to take place.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Iris colored tulle.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE L’HEURE PROMISE:  soft, elegant, sheer

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’HEURE PROMISE:  Perfume Posse

BOTTOM LINE:  L’Heure Promise is incredibly beautiful in a simply elegant way.  I would probably give the perfume a 4 bone rating, but this is so much of a skin scent that I would find it hard to do so given the hefty price tag.  But would I like to have this as part of my perfume collection?  That would be a definitive “yes!”

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Green
  • Nose:  Mathilde Laurent
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $275 for 75 ml eau de toilette


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Chanel Jersey

WHAT I SMELL:  Jersey’s opening consists of a soft, cottony lipstick tinged lavender that is soon met with a warmed, lightly brown sugared and caramelized vanilla.  The vanilla isn’t heavy nor overly sweet, and as such it’s the perfect companion for the powdery lavender that resides on top of it.  At this juncture, Jersey feels as if it’s made from cotton which has been milled and then folded into a bottle.  As the perfume continues to develop, the lavender and vanilla begin to add a bit of cream that softens the perfume and turns it from the muslin towards a lightly sweet lotion.  And basically that’s it; Jersey is a simple…no make that…Jersey is a simply beautiful perfume.

From the Chanel website:

The Roaring Twenties. In this era of jazz and folly, Mademoiselle Chanel dressed women in sailor sweaters made of jersey, creating clothing in which to laugh and dance with effortless elegance.

Composed by Jacques Polge—Creator of CHANEL Fragrance from 1978 to 2014—JERSEY reveals the feminine treasures of lavender by combining it with bourbon vanilla in a creamy accord heightened by notes of white musk. A scent of life and joy.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Dreamy lavendered cottoned clouds.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE JERSEYuncomplicated, delightful, happy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT JERSEY:  The reviews I found were for the eau de toilette version that was discontinued in 2016 to make way for the new line of eau de parfums in the Les Exclusifs line.  As there may be significant differences, I have not included any of them here.  The only eau de parfum review I found is from Viora London.

BOTTOM LINE:  Funny, I wrote the following about 31 Rue Cambon just weeks ago and I have to say that it also applies perfectly to Jersey:  Once again, Chanel does it with a perfume that is clean, easy to wear, and anything but boring.  Jersey is an uncomplicated perfume that rises to the occasion when you don’t want to fuss about what you’re going to wear.  And it does so beautifully.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose:  Jacques Polge
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $200 for 2.5 oz. eau de parfum