The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Focus on Mexico: Sandovalis Perfumes and Cicle Club Review

Before leaving the US in 2017 for Mexico, it was clear that there was an entrepreneurial groundswell happening with small start-up companies, stores and restaurants happening throughout the country.  It was exciting to see craftmanship return to the marketplace with people who had the love and spirit to make and provide new and unique products and services.  Here in Mexico, the same is happening, especially with the younger generation.  And because of it, many are bringing a new twist to the traditional in a very exciting way.

One of these entrepreneurs lives right here in Merida; Jose Sandovalis of Sandovalis Perfumes.  As a self-taught perfumer, Jose has used his love of perfume, botany and the Yucatan to create a line of perfumes, candles and personal grooming products that are rooted in the local environment.  Jose cites that his interest in perfume began with his grandmother who had a book of perfumes from the late 19th century.  But it wasn’t just his grandmother that helped to influence this interest; his father and grandfather helped to educate and mentor with a shared passion for botany.  Now, together with his wife Cindy, they have handcrafted a collection of unique products that are tied to the history and botanicals of the Yucatan.  And they source their materials throughout the peninsula with a concentration on fair trade.  To Jose, sustaining and supporting the local people is key to his mission.   Sorry to say however, that these products are only available in Mexico.  So if you need a good excuse to come experience this wonderful country, this is one good reason to do so

WHAT I SMELL:   Cicle Club first spins off of the skin with a fresh and tangy lightly sugared tangerine.  The pefume sparkles with a bright energy.  After a couple of minutes, the cheery opening starts to retreat, leaving the wearer wondering if the perfume is about to disappear after a quick hello.    But as expected, the perfume begins to reveal a more herbal heart with hints of dewy wood.   The light sugared sweetness is still there, but it has retreated in such a manner giving it a quiet and understated level of positivity.  After some time, a tobacco note starts to swirl and rise through the center of the perfume.  It’s projection is just right as it feels a bit windswept off of the skin.

Head notes:  Tangerine and Rosemary

Heart notes:  Good grass and Basil

Background notes:  Cedar and Tobacco

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A quiet early evening bike ride underneath Merida’s Arcos de Dragones.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CICLE CLUB:  understated, classic, comfortable

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CICLE CLUB:  None found.

BOTTOM LINE:  Cicle Club is clearly a gentlemen, but one with a sporty heart.  It’s herbal and woody tobacco freshness is perfect in the heat of the summer and for any time of year.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Aromatic Woody
  • Nose:  Jose Sandovalis
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: Approximately $50 for 60 ml eau de parfum.  Also available in 30 ml.

For more information, please check out the wonderfully historical Sandovalis Perfumes website (in Spanish – easy to translate using Google Chrome).


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Ormonde Jayne Zizan

WHAT I SMELL:   The first spritz of Zizan is a blast of citrus that is quickly tempered with a light mix of pepper and herbs.  It’s very clear from the beginning that Zizan is classic male fragrance…there’s nothing avant-garde here.  As it continues to develop, a sweetened floral mix entwines with the herbs as it warms the skin.  Soon enough, a green vetiver comes forward with a lemony edge.  Actually, it smells a bit like Lemon Pledge at this point.   But at soon as I say that, it starts to have a boxing match with a more woody amber.  There is a lot of movement with Zizan which is fine with me as I can’t wait to see where it settles down.  As the perfume continues to morph, the warmth intensifies and there’s an increase in its projection off of the skin.  At this point, the vetiver has a rather sharp edge, but lingering below may be some other notes to rein it in.  After ten more minutes, the vetiver bows to the light amber.  Still peppery and woody, Zizan begins to quiet down with just the right amount of fight.

From the Ormonde Jayne website:

Zizan, a perfume like no other because it has everything a man could possibly want in a single spectacular scent. This is a powerhouse perfume. Expect a deluge of boisterous Sicilian lime, lemon and bergamot but to smooth the biting edge, a brilliantly refined concentration of vetiver.

HEAD:  Sicilian Lime, Lemon, Bergamot, Clary Sage, Pink Pepper and Juniper Berry

HEART:  Bay, Violet and Jasmine

SOUL:  Vetiver, Cedar, Musk and Amber

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Classic in its approach, Zizan’s confidence spreads to the wearer.  Think Herb Alpert’s 1960’s classic album, “Whipped Cream & Other Delights.”  Full of energy and oh so sexy.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ZIZAN:  confident, secure, classic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ZIZAN:  Manface, Perfume Shrine, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE:   Sometimes I find myself wanting to wear a classic men’s fragrance rather than something unisex.  Zizan fits the bill as it exudes a hefty dose of masculinity without being too overt or offensive.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Citrus Aromatic
  • Nose:  Geza Schoen
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: $150 for 50 ml eau de parfum.  Also available in 30 ml or 100 ml.

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.


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Crépuscule Des Âmes by Atelier Des Ors

WHAT I SMELL:  Crépuscule Des Âmes greets the skin with a warm and sparkling opening which quickly moves to the more herbal.  The perfume is lightly spiced and incredibly inviting.  As the perfume develops, it starts to take on a urinous note which turns the perfume from comforting to intriguing and lightly naughty.  Underneath the naughtiness is just a shimmer of sweet that keeps the perfume in the perfect place.  Eventually a light incense weaves its way in to add another dimension of mystery.  After some more time, a wonderful patchouli helps to once again draw out the lightly sweet.  Here the perfume perfectly resides…comfortable enough to wear on many occasions, but interesting enough to make it just that more exciting to wear.  Crépuscule Des Âmes is not a powerhouse, but it’s not shy either.  Instead, it’s a perfume that is distinct enough to draw others in wondering where the exotic elixir is coming from.

Crépuscule Des Âmes Notes:  Mandarin, cardamom, clary sage, hysope, incense, pimento berries, hyraceum, patchouli

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A 1950’s mink stole.  Lightly warmed…perfect for the cool of the evening.*

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CRÉPUSCALE DES ÂMES:  naughty, intriguing, retro-modern

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CRÉPUSCALE DES ÂMES:  Colognoisseur, The Plum Girl, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:   There is something very chic about Crépuscule Des Âmes.  It’s a modern twist on a classic base.  Very wearable, the perfume is lovely with just the right amount of naughtiness.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Aromatic
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $225 for 100ml eau de parfum

* The Scented Hound does not endorse the use of fur for fashion.