The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.

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New Release: Emerites Pride – More of Oud

WHAT I SMELL:  More of Oud opens with a soft cashmere blanket of warmed and somewhat soured neroli and ever so slightly sweetened yuzu blossoms.  It’s not citrus in a light and juicy vein, but is citrus that seems to be warmed in the heat of the middle eastern sun.   The oud is there from the beginning, but it’s not heavy, nor does it draw all of your attention to itself.  Instead, it provides a warm creaminess that rests under the flowers along with what seems to me to be patchouli although it’s not cited in the official notes.  As the perfume settles,  it shines with florals and white musk through a haze of oakmoss and oud along with a lightly worn leather.  It’s really comforting and beautiful and it seems to radiate off the skin with a quiet intensity.  There are no longevity issues here and a small spritz goes a long way.  More of Oud doesn’t submit the wearer with lots of development twists and turns.  Instead, it presents its beauty from first spray and envelopes you with its magic spell.

From the Emerites Pride website:

More Of Oud is an intense scent of zesty blossoms in the air mixed with lush oriental odor. Shining bright with a warm concord, the juicy succulence explodes in the whoosh of Neroli, and Yuzu blossoms at the top, with a sparkling sunny gleam. Awakening your senses masterfully with an earthy note, the oakmoss roundup extravagantly in the heart. Sashaying the base with the luminous modernity of white musk and Agarwood leaves us with an inner warmth of lightness and peace.

Like a prism refracting light into a splash of colors, More of Oud beams and illuminates us with the spectrum of a futuristic oud.  This is an explosion of light… This is the radiance of Modern Oud…

Top Notes – Neroli, Yuzu; Heart Notes – Oakmoss; Base Notes – Agarwood, White Musk

The Dubai Frame

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A modern take on oud…a nod to the past with an eye to the future.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MORE OF OUD:  spellbinding, comforting, unique


BOTTOM LINE:  As I was writing this review, my better half came into the room and asked what I was wearing because it smelled amazing.  THAT NEVER HAPPENS!  I don’t know if I can make any more of a ringing endorsement than that.  I will say however, that More of Oud is a perfume that creates an amazing cloud of sillage without being overwhelming.  Instead, it’s like an ethereal being that follows the wearer wherever they go.  Finally, don’t let the name More of Oud scare you.  The perfume is “just the right amount of oud” being that it’s a lighter and non-animalistic oud creation.  As an extra bonus, the bottle and packaging are gorgeous and in addition to receiving the eau de parfum, an 8 ml bottle of More of Oud perfume oil is included.  More of Oud is a dream of a perfume.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Woody Aromatic
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  Approximately $149 for 100 ml eau de parfum and 8 ml perfumed oil from the Emerites Pride website.  Worldwide shipping available (location and shipping costs totaled at checkout).

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Montale Herbal Aquatica

WHAT I SMELL:  Herbal Aquatica opens with fresh warmed bergamot that’s surrounded by a bouquet of herbs with mint front and center.  It’s so light, fresh and airy which makes for an instant spritz of joy on the skin.  In not too long, a magnolia note (the notes say lotus) brings in a creaminess that is like a river of satin that wraps the wearer in a sheen of lotion.  Along with the florals comes a a sweetened and lightly confectioned glaze that seems to grow with every intake of the perfume.  At this point, Herbal Aquatica moves from the more floral to the gourmand and the perfume takes on a sugared hue.  I have to admit that I’m a bit worried at this point because the perfume started off so promising as a gentle wrap to the wearer.  But with the sugar it’s turning the perfume from a lovely whisper to a bit more of a shout.  Thankfully, after some time, Herbal Aquatica begins to even out and settle down and the florals along with a sandalwood help to bring to bring the perfume back to the edge of the garden.

From the Montale Parfums website:

Herbal Aquatica is a unique and peaceful composition, herbaceous and woody, fresh and sweet, surprisingly sensual. Lotus flowers, Papyrus and Sage evoke a journey to the banks of the Nile where the sun, like an offering, lets us see its last luminous rays. 

The freshness of an early evening where the slightly mentholated spray transports us to the heart of Ancient Egypt. Herbal Aquatica, an undeniable treasure.

Top Notes – Mint, Calabrian bergamot, Herbal Notes and Sage; Middle Notes – Lotus, Sea Notes, Green Tea, Papyrus and Caramel; Base Notes -Australian Sandalwood, Vanilla Sugar and Amber.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Cottonelle toilet paper.  I don’t know about other parts of the world, but in Mexico we have toilet paper in scents of magnolia, vanilla and violet.  This smells very much like the magnolia and vanilla and that’s not a bad thing.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE HERBAL AQUATICA:  comforting, positive, creamy


BOTTOM LINE:  Herbal Aquatica is so wonderfully inviting at first spritz as its soft beauty is like a dream.  Then the perfume moves to the more bold with an addition of caramel and vanilla which takes the softness away, while still remaining delightful.  I like Herbal Aquatica and given the right time for wearing it along with a gentle spray it may just move from a like to more of a love.

P.S.:  After many wears, I will say that a gentle spray really is the key to making this perfume a joy to wear.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $170 for 100 ml eau de parfum.  Also available in 50 ml.

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.

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Zoologist Cockatiel

WHAT I SMELL:  Cockatiel opens with a combination of muted fruit and tangy champagne which quickly moves to a warmed powder.  It’s lightly sweet and lightly candied as if it was concocted from an old confectioner of years past that can now only be found in tourist centric candy stores in mid-America.  As Cockatiel flaps its wings, an undercurrent of musk pushes out from the center to the bottom of the perfume.  It has a bit of a dull feel accentuated by a woody vanilla.  Here, the perfume smells a bit like wet socks that have been sprinkled with powder.  But that quickly dissipates and turns wholly to a soured spicy powder.  Cockatiel is different, but I’m not sure if different in this case is a good thing.

From the Zoologist Perfumes website:

Australian spring arrives, bearing dazzling frocks of yellow blossoms to dress the bare golden wattle trees. Clouds of sweet honeyed fragrance, caught upon the breeze, carry an invitation inland, where a flock of cockatiels happily take up the celebration. Emerging from dusty nests, the birds are ready to preen and prance. On a wobbly stage of branches, vivid crests bop to the rhythm of their joyous songs. After a final encore, the flock takes flight. Alighting in a nearby field they share a delightful brunch, buzzing with the thrill of their stunning recital.

Zoologist Cockatiel exudes joy. A sunny burst of yellow acacia offers a friendly welcome. Dots of raspberry and tart rhubarb suggest a hint of mischief, like a pair of rosy cheeks beneath a golden plume. Finally, soft notes of musk and vanilla enfold the vibrant Cockatiel, like downy feathers cushioning the brashness of this cheeky bird.

Top Notes: Champagne, Raspberry, Rhubarb
Heart Notes: Acacia, Powdery Notes, Cashmeran
Base Notes: Guaiac, Patchouli, Vanilla, Musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Ye Olde Candy Shoppe.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE COCKATIEL:  soured, confectionary, muted


BOTTOM LINE:  Cockatiel is an interesting perfume in that the first half of its development it does provide the wearer with this mix of muted sugar and powder that gives the feeling of a bird flapping its wings.  However, the drydown becomes flat, somewhat sour and a little dull.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose: Sven Pritzkoleit
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $175 for 60 ml eau de parfum.  Also available in 10 ml travel spray.