The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


5 Comments

Cartier – XII L’Heure Mysterieuse

WHAT I SMELL:  L’Heure Mysterieuse has a strange opening that’s full of smoke and tar as well as a heavy patchouli that is thick, chewy and rather like paste.  The smoke rises off of the skin like some kind of industrial component.  This is a very bizarre as I can’t see how the opening brings promise of anything beautiful or gentile….or something that represents “Cartier.”  Thankfully, after a short time, the tar and heavy smoke begin to lift.  A dried flatness of incense appears instead and the perfume starts to belie a more gentle persona.  But don’t get me wrong, there’s a strength to the perfume in that it has a fighting energy buried beneath the smoky subdued radiance.  After quite some time a light floral appears, once again softening the former intensity.  To me, L’Heure Mysterieuse is a hard perfume to describe, but I can tell you that it has a classic old world heart that reminds me of fragrances from the 1970s.

From the Cartier website:

Silence was on the prowl. You could hear it breathing, lurking like desire. The calmness felt only temporary. Drowsiness gained life, slowly jasmine and heavily PATCHOULI. This was the time for listening to your own pulse at the edge of abandon, like a reverse countdown, a voyage into the intimate where everything both takes shape and disintegrates. Withdraw into yourself, escape and focus your mind on your inner self, reaching that point where self-awareness resides. Was it elemi gum, CORIANDER day? Was it incense, FRANKINCENSE night? Soon you must leave the juniper darkness… but not quite yet. First, savor L’HEURE MYSTÉRIEUSE for just one hour – no longer, that’s a promise – extracted from deep within, and rediscover your own personal roots.

La Liberté guidant le peuple. Eugène Delacroix. 1830

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  La Liberté.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE L’HEURE MYSTERIEUSE:  smoky, intense, retro

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’HEURE MYSTERIEUSE:  AustralianPerfumeJunkies, Bois de Jasmin, Katie Puckrick Smells

BOTTOM LINE:  L’Heure Mysterieuse Is a like and not a love for me.  The opening is weirdly interesting, but the drydown redeems the perfume as it turns into a retro classical scent.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Spicy
  • Nose:  Mathilde Laurent
  • Classification: Unisex (but to me it leans masculine)
  • Expense: $285 for 75 ml eau de parfum


2 Comments

Eight & Bob – Egypt

WHAT I SMELL:  Rather than a dry heat rising from the Sahara, Egypt opens with warm nutty lavender that quickly begins to fizz with a mellow lemon citrus coating.  It’s warm, but at the same time rather crisp and slightly formal, while projecting a casual vibe.  The lemon and nutmeg make for a light gourmand presence…slightly sugared, but never sweet.   The patchouli enters rather quickly, but instead of taking over, it glides underneath the nuttiness.  Here the perfume really begins to project and it’s warm and inviting and rather sexy as its self-assured.  As the perfume continues to develop the patchouli comes front and center with a sandalwood that tries to keep the scent from becoming to sweet.  But unfortunately on my skin, Egypt turns into a patchouli bomb…that’s not bad, but I would have liked to experience some more of the leather, which only appears after an hour or so and with barely a whisper.

Notes from the Eight & Bob website:

Top Notes: Lavender, Lemon, Moss

Heart Notes:  Cardamom, Nutmeg

Base Notes:  Leather, Patchouli, Sandalwood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Early 20th Century Egypt…a blending of old with the new.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE EGYPT:  Semi-sweet, semi-formal, semi-modern

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT EGYPT:  CaFleureBon, Perfume Posse

BOTTOM LINE:  I want to like this perfume, but the patchouli is just a bit too radiant for my taste.  Too bad because otherwise it’s a lovely fragrance.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $183 for 100 ml eau de parfum


8 Comments

Sana Jardin Revolution de la Fleur

WHAT I SMELL:  Revolution de la Fleur opens with a delightful sweetened frangipani that’s evened out with a delicate and subtle rose.  It’s buttery and tropical and feels as if it’s kissed by the sun.  The frangipani has a bit of a candied essence, like that of a hard candied necklace and overall it provides the sensation of an explosion of color which equals pure happiness.  Revolution De La Fleur doesn’t so much develop as bloom.  As it wears, a beautiful ylang-ylang places itself at the center, like the queen of the tropics.  Here the perfume settles, less sweet but complete floral radiance as the scent of the flowers float as if on a breeze in the heat of the afternoon.  In the end, a bit of vanilla keeps the perfume slightly sweet and keeps the flowers (the frangipani, ylang-ylang and what seems to be a tuberose) remaining intact and a light sandalwood provides for just a hint of spice.

Notes from the Sana Jardin website:

Top: Rose, Frangipani
Heart: Neroli, Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine
Base: Vanilla Bean Extract, Sandalwood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Tropical happiness.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE REVOLUTION DE LA FLEUR:  sun-sweet, tropical, buttery

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT REVOLUTION DE LA FLEUR:  Now Smell This, Persolaise

BOTTOM LINE:  Revolution de la Fleur is a pretty perfume that will delight those who love a good tropical perfume.  But with these heady florals, it’s important to remember that when wearing it, a little goes a long way.  When applied correctly, the perfume is incredibly delightful.  You should also note that Sana Jardin perfumes are all natural.  And for being all natural, this perfume has incredible lasting power.  Oh, and the bottles are simply elegant…always a nice touch as far as I’m concerned.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense:  Starting at £ 180, available in 50ml or 100ml eau de parfum from the Sana Jardin website.