The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


7 Comments

A Visit to the Mexico City Guerlain Boutique & Joyeuse Tubéreuse Review

The Scented Hound and hub just got back from a short getaway to Mexico City, which is quickly becoming one of our favorite places to visit due to its rich heritage, beautiful parks, incredible restaurants, fantastic shopping and numerous and interesting museums, not to mention the warm and friendly people.  Now that the first Guerlain Boutique is open in Latin America, a “must-stop” for anyone travelling to Mexico City is located in the El Palacio de Herrerio Perisur department store.  Located outside the central city, the boutique was an easy Uber ride from where we were staying and completely worth the trip.

The first thing you notice when you step into the boutique is a display of all the colorful bee bottles.  To be honest, looking at the collection is a bit head spinning knowing that you have the option to put your favorite perfume into one of these spectacular little jewels of a bottle…but I’m getting ahead of myself.

As soon as I walked in, I was warmly greeted by the boutique staff as well as the boutique manager, Alberto Plata. Unfortunately, he spoke very little English and I speak very little Spanish.  But without hesitation, Melina Rodriguez, makeup artist, came over from the Guerlain makeup department to help translate.  We were all business at first, but through “fun with translation” and just having a great time, we all quickly became fast friends.

So with the hub sitting patiently on the side, Alberto had me sit down for a fragrance consultation.  Of course, having already a collection of Guerlain perfumes, both current and vintage, I pretty much knew what I was looking for, but I wanted to go through the consultation process to see what it would reveal.  Alberto started off with questions about the comforts of home, foods that I like, special memories associated with smell, etc.  I revealed that I love luxury in the bedroom with nice linens, but that my favorite food is pizza.  I knew I was going to be a challenge.  After going through the questions, I was then asked to rate the smell of some blotters.  After putting this information into their consultation system, it revealed that my fragrance personality was “Floral/Fresh.”  I clearly had no arguments with this as I do love my florals!   Given that and based on other provided information, the system made four recommendations for perfumes:

  1.  Chamade Pour Homme – My goal for the day was to buy a bottle of this lovely perfume which I had just written about.  So far I was impressed with the results!
  2. Samsara – Samsara is already in my collection.  I have a big bottle of vintage parfum that I wear when I want to be noticed.  It really is a spectacular perfume….still impressed with the results.
  3. Bois d’Armenie – This recommendation was a bit of a surprise as it’s an oriental.  I like the perfume, but knew it was not for me because wearing it in the heat and humidity of Merida would make it suffocating except for the one or two months where it was just a bit cooler out.
  4. Joyeuse Tubereuse – Another surprise because the perfume was no where on my radar of something that might be to my liking.  Actually, it stole my heart.

As I mentioned, I knew that Chamade Pour Homme was on my “to buy” list, but I decided to go ahead with a purchase of the Joyeuse Tubereuse as well.  So off to the bee bottles…

Of course, you can purchase the perfumes in their original bottles, but how many times do you have the opportunity to have your very own customized bee bottle?  Alberto and Melina led me over to the display case where I picked out a lovely green bottle for the Joyeuse Tubereuse and a grey bottle for the Chamade.  The next task was for me to decide what to have etched on the bottle.  I chose for both, a simple font of my initials.  The bottles were then placed in the etching machine and given to the technicians.  Here, the technicians suited up in sterilized robes and gloves prepared the bottles for filling.  First, they cleaned the bottles out with alcohol and then with a small amount of the perfume and then filled the bottles, recording on the bottom the perfume batch information.  These ladies were masterful in their handling of the product and it was so fun to be able to witness their skills.

One of the things that I was not thrilled about with the bee bottles is that they’re only available in splash.  Not to worry, for each perfume I was given a 30 ml refillable spray bottle and funnel.  And too boot, as part of the purchase I was given a free gift of a suede fringe purse…not really my thing, but it’s beautiful and it will make for a fabulous present for someone special.

The technician’s ended up wrapping up my new treasures in the most beautiful of way and after sharing hugs we ventured off on our way.  This truly was a fun and wonderful experience.  The customer service from Alberto and Melina and staff was exceptional and I left feeling like I had some new friends.  I cannot wait to head back to Mexico City….in fact I wish I would have purchased a bottle of my beloved Chamade in parfum extrait….but that just means that I’ll have to go back sooner than later.  Thanks Guerlain, for making Mexico City just that much more wonderfully perfumed.

JOYEUSE TUBÉREUSE REVIEW – 

WHAT I SMELL:  Joyeuse Tubéreuse opens with freshest of green stems.  The perfume is soft, pretty and feels like dew that’s sitting on top of the morning’s fresh cut flowers.  A tinge of lily starts off the fresh introduction of florals with the mildest of tuberose coming in slowly.  There’s nothing harsh with the pretty white florals; instead they glide in effortlessly and remain in the most delicate of state.  Still dewy, the perfume brings promise of a beautiful spring day ahead.  As the perfume develops, the tuberose begins to take it’s place as the quiet focus of the perfume and the perfume begins to lightly warm with the softest of vanilla.  Joyeuse Tubéreuse makes wearing tuberose and easy joy with its soft and light touch.

From the Guerlain website:

An airy and radiant tuberose. Exquisitely innocent, amazingly fresh.  Floral green.
Top notes: green notes.
Heart notes: tuberose, lily, sambac jasmine.
Base notes: sandalwood, vetiver, vanilla.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A fresh and dewy spring morning.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE JOYEUSE TUBÉREUSE:  Soft, serene, fresh

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT JOYEUSE TUBÉREUSE:  CaFleureBon, The Black Narcissus, Stephan Matthews

BOTTOM LINE:  Joyeuse Tubéreuse is a simple perfume…simply lovely.  But that’s part of it’s charm.  It doesn’t take you on a ride of development. Instead, it eases you into a spring day in the most perfect of way.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Classification:  Leans feminine
  • Expense: $260 for 2.5 oz. eau de parfum


1 Comment

Jusbox Perfumes Beat Café

WHAT I SMELL:   Beat Café eases it way on to the skin with a warm, deep, striking coriander which is met with a soured boozy note.  The perfume almost has an undertone of body odor…but not in a repellent way, but in a way that says a shirt has been worn for a few days and has retained a mix of smoke, sweat and booze.  As soon as I write that, a leather note adds another layer to the well worn ensemble.  The leather adds a bit of funk combined with a light hint of danger and a lot of “I just don’t give a damn.”  As the perfume continues to develop, the funky turns more subtle as a sweetened tobacco and light wood adds the right amount of chill.   Here the perfume sits in the perfectly relaxed state of comfort, with a hint of an edge that says although it’s OK to kick back, at any time it might be time to stand up to make a difference in the world.

From the Jusbox website:

The early sixties mark a turning point in history. While war rages around the world, the youth starts to rally against the blind violence and oppression of an establishment it can no longer tolerate. The Beat Generation composed of a group of authors whose literature explores and influences American culture in the post-World War II era, finds its voice in Bob Dylan’s music. His bluesy melodies tinged with vitality, a rich and direct timbre, spread their message of freedom from the USA to Europe. Poet, writer and underground singer, he starts his career with amazing cafe performances. Back then cafes have become mythical meeting points where the younger generation come together to build a counter culture through music, poetry, politic, literature and fashion. A scent of revolution hangs in the air, saturated with tobacco, spirit and leather exuded from the couches where this rebel generation sits imagining a new order till the break of dawn.

Perfume Notes: 

Black Pepper, Coriander Seed, Fine Cognac Accord

Cistus Labdanum Oil, Black Leather, Tobacco

Vetiver, Cedarwood, Benzoin Balm

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A young Bob Dylan.*

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BEAT CAFÉ:  semi-funky, semi-dangerous, semi-hip

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BEAT CAFÉCaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: Beat Café delivers on its’ evocation of the Beat Generation.  It feels like a modern perfume, but has the soul of a bygone era.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Woody
  • Nose:  Domanique Ropian
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Approximately $190 for 78 ml eau de parfum.

*Jusbox is an exclusive range of perfumes whose concept is based on the similarity between perfume and music. Music is the key inspiration for all of their fragrances.  Each of the perfumes is accompanied by a playlist of music associated with the perfume.  In the case of Beat Cafe, much of the playlist contains music by Bob Dylan.  To play the playlist, go to the Beat Café page on the Jusbox website.

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.


2 Comments

Guerlain Nuit d’Amour

WHAT I SMELL:   Nuit d’Amour opens softly with lightly sweetened lychee fruitiness that swiftly blends with a touch of pink pepper and a softened rose that seems to be puffed with air floating underneath.   The perfume is rather dreamy and is surrounded in a cloudy haze that hovers over the perfumed skin.  Soon enough, a soft violet blends itself in the dreamy concoction.  But here the violet is less innocent, but more knowing and rather mature.  After a short time, a sandalwood begins to form as the base.  Never heavy, it makes the perfect resting place for the lightly warmed florals.  In the end, the perfume quiets even more, leaving you in a powdery haze of light florals wrapped in musky gauze.

From the Guerlain website:

Jean-Paul Guerlain created Nuit d’Amour as a tribute to Gustav Klimt and one of his works of art: “Lady with Hat and Feather Boa.” This floral, powdery and woody fragrance recalls the stirring emotion that might strike when you encounter an unknown woman with indefinable charm.

Powdery and Woody Floral.
Sweet, moving, feminine.
Top notes: lychee, pink pepper.
Heart notes: May rose, violet.
Base notes: sandalwood, white musks, iris.

Lady With Hat and Feather Boa – Gustav Klimt (1909)

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   I can’t argue with Jean-Paul Guerlain’s inspiration of Gustav Klimt’s “Lady with Hat and Feather Boa.”

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE NUIT D’AMOUR:  reserved, refined, soft

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NUIT D’AMOUR:  Bois de Jasmin, Australian Perfume Junkies

BOTTOM LINE:  I so much want to love this perfume.  It’s soft, it’s pretty, but there’s just not enough of it.  It’s much too restrained to command any affection from me.  That said, it’s really nice…just really nice and that’s a shame.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Floral
  • Nose:  Jean Paul Guerlain
  • Classification:  Feminine
  • Expense:  125 ml Eau de Parfum.  Exclusively at Guerlain Boutiques as part of the Les Parisiennes collection.