The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Ormonde Jayne Zizan

WHAT I SMELL:   The first spritz of Zizan is a blast of citrus that is quickly tempered with a light mix of pepper and herbs.  It’s very clear from the beginning that Zizan is classic male fragrance…there’s nothing avant-garde here.  As it continues to develop, a sweetened floral mix entwines with the herbs as it warms the skin.  Soon enough, a green vetiver comes forward with a lemony edge.  Actually, it smells a bit like Lemon Pledge at this point.   But at soon as I say that, it starts to have a boxing match with a more woody amber.  There is a lot of movement with Zizan which is fine with me as I can’t wait to see where it settles down.  As the perfume continues to morph, the warmth intensifies and there’s an increase in its projection off of the skin.  At this point, the vetiver has a rather sharp edge, but lingering below may be some other notes to rein it in.  After ten more minutes, the vetiver bows to the light amber.  Still peppery and woody, Zizan begins to quiet down with just the right amount of fight.

From the Ormonde Jayne website:

Zizan, a perfume like no other because it has everything a man could possibly want in a single spectacular scent. This is a powerhouse perfume. Expect a deluge of boisterous Sicilian lime, lemon and bergamot but to smooth the biting edge, a brilliantly refined concentration of vetiver.

HEAD:  Sicilian Lime, Lemon, Bergamot, Clary Sage, Pink Pepper and Juniper Berry

HEART:  Bay, Violet and Jasmine

SOUL:  Vetiver, Cedar, Musk and Amber

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Classic in its approach, Zizan’s confidence spreads to the wearer.  Think Herb Alpert’s 1960’s classic album, “Whipped Cream & Other Delights.”  Full of energy and oh so sexy.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ZIZAN:  confident, secure, classic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ZIZAN:  Manface, Perfume Shrine, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE:   Sometimes I find myself wanting to wear a classic men’s fragrance rather than something unisex.  Zizan fits the bill as it exudes a hefty dose of masculinity without being too overt or offensive.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Citrus Aromatic
  • Nose:  Geza Schoen
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: $150 for 50 ml eau de parfum.  Also available in 30 ml or 100 ml.

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.


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Crépuscule Des Âmes by Atelier Des Ors

WHAT I SMELL:  Crépuscule Des Âmes greets the skin with a warm and sparkling opening which quickly moves to the more herbal.  The perfume is lightly spiced and incredibly inviting.  As the perfume develops, it starts to take on a urinous note which turns the perfume from comforting to intriguing and lightly naughty.  Underneath the naughtiness is just a shimmer of sweet that keeps the perfume in the perfect place.  Eventually a light incense weaves its way in to add another dimension of mystery.  After some more time, a wonderful patchouli helps to once again draw out the lightly sweet.  Here the perfume perfectly resides…comfortable enough to wear on many occasions, but interesting enough to make it just that more exciting to wear.  Crépuscule Des Âmes is not a powerhouse, but it’s not shy either.  Instead, it’s a perfume that is distinct enough to draw others in wondering where the exotic elixir is coming from.

Crépuscule Des Âmes Notes:  Mandarin, cardamom, clary sage, hysope, incense, pimento berries, hyraceum, patchouli

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A 1950’s mink stole.  Lightly warmed…perfect for the cool of the evening.*

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CRÉPUSCALE DES ÂMES:  naughty, intriguing, retro-modern

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CRÉPUSCALE DES ÂMES:  Colognoisseur, The Plum Girl, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:   There is something very chic about Crépuscule Des Âmes.  It’s a modern twist on a classic base.  Very wearable, the perfume is lovely with just the right amount of naughtiness.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Aromatic
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $225 for 100ml eau de parfum

* The Scented Hound does not endorse the use of fur for fashion.


5 Comments

Cartier – XII L’Heure Mysterieuse

WHAT I SMELL:  L’Heure Mysterieuse has a strange opening that’s full of smoke and tar as well as a heavy patchouli that is thick, chewy and rather like paste.  The smoke rises off of the skin like some kind of industrial component.  This is a very bizarre as I can’t see how the opening brings promise of anything beautiful or gentile….or something that represents “Cartier.”  Thankfully, after a short time, the tar and heavy smoke begin to lift.  A dried flatness of incense appears instead and the perfume starts to belie a more gentle persona.  But don’t get me wrong, there’s a strength to the perfume in that it has a fighting energy buried beneath the smoky subdued radiance.  After quite some time a light floral appears, once again softening the former intensity.  To me, L’Heure Mysterieuse is a hard perfume to describe, but I can tell you that it has a classic old world heart that reminds me of fragrances from the 1970s.

From the Cartier website:

Silence was on the prowl. You could hear it breathing, lurking like desire. The calmness felt only temporary. Drowsiness gained life, slowly jasmine and heavily PATCHOULI. This was the time for listening to your own pulse at the edge of abandon, like a reverse countdown, a voyage into the intimate where everything both takes shape and disintegrates. Withdraw into yourself, escape and focus your mind on your inner self, reaching that point where self-awareness resides. Was it elemi gum, CORIANDER day? Was it incense, FRANKINCENSE night? Soon you must leave the juniper darkness… but not quite yet. First, savor L’HEURE MYSTÉRIEUSE for just one hour – no longer, that’s a promise – extracted from deep within, and rediscover your own personal roots.

La Liberté guidant le peuple. Eugène Delacroix. 1830

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  La Liberté.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE L’HEURE MYSTERIEUSE:  smoky, intense, retro

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’HEURE MYSTERIEUSE:  AustralianPerfumeJunkies, Bois de Jasmin, Katie Puckrick Smells

BOTTOM LINE:  L’Heure Mysterieuse Is a like and not a love for me.  The opening is weirdly interesting, but the drydown redeems the perfume as it turns into a retro classical scent.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Spicy
  • Nose:  Mathilde Laurent
  • Classification: Unisex (but to me it leans masculine)
  • Expense: $285 for 75 ml eau de parfum