The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Joy Eau de Parfum by Jean Patou

WHAT I SMELL:    Joy (current version eau de parfum) is truly a joy when it first goes on the skin as it’s full of lush ylang-ylang and soapy white flowers and bright aldehydes.  It’s a clean smell and one that’s slightly metallic.  The florals are wrapped up in warmth, but at the same time there is a coolness or a bit of aloofness that makes the perfume proper and rather removed.  After some time, a light controlled rose blends with the metallic notes and the soapiness begins to dissipate.  As Joy continues its slow and deliberate path, a jasmine blends itself with the rose…but combined, they’re still very controlled and incredibly proper.  Joy doesn’t transform or morph very much, but in the end, the florals fade and soften a bit, and what you’re left is a lightly warm breeze of light floral sandalwood musk.

From the Jean Patou website:

Created in 1930 at the height of the economic crisis. Joy, a sumptuous blend of roses and jasmine, is the antidote to gloom. Conceived as a perfume to reveal the essence of femininity of every woman, “Joy” is a timeless fragrance, the signature of the house Jean Patou.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Floral steel.  A bit soft, yet rather hard.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE JOY:  controlled, reserved, distant

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT JOY: There are many reviews on Joy, but I haven’t found any on the current eau de parfum version.

BOTTOM LINE:  Joy is legendary as the pillar of the house of Jean Patou.  That said, I can’t honestly say that I don’t know anyone who continues to wear the perfume.  Classics don’t always transfer well to the modern age and to me, Joy is a bit too removed in its personality.  However, I’ll admit that I have a vintage bottle of the eau de cologne version from the 1970s.  It’s clearly Joy, but it’s a much lighter wear as the florals aren’t tinged with the metallic edge and it’s just so much easier to like (but not love as it still leaves me a bit cold).

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Henri Almeras
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense:  Varies


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Ormonde Jayne Tiare

WHAT I SMELL:   What a lovely way to start off the new year.  Tiare’s opening is wonderfully fresh with a luminescent orange met with a gorgeous and slightly sour orange blossom.  The perfume is citrus at first, but soon the rush of flowers come sweeping forward.  These flowers shine bright and sing in the softest way with ladylike joy wrapped in serenity.  The perfume is based on the tiare flower, but to me, the tiare does not stand out amongst the other floral in the composition.  Instead, the ylang-ylang is slightly more pronounced, but that’s ok because overall the perfume is divine.  A very light soapy note brushes the flowers, but not in a way to make the perfume soapy.  After quite some time, a mossy cedar note enters, giving a light dimension like that of pencil shavings and it’s the perfect base for the innocence of the flowers.  As the perfume settles, it retains this ethereal beauty that seems to dance upon the skin.  Tiare is not harsh, loud, nor groundbreakingly different.  What it is however, is beyond beautiful…a classic stunner.

From the Ormonde Jayne website:

Like precious jewels resting on dark green foliage, the unsurpassed beauty of the Tiare flower is hand-picked whilst still unopened and laid in oil for 15 days to extract the fragrance. Like the woman who wears Tiare, this is a perfume that totally ignores seasons and the time of day, a perfume so artfully blended and infinitely refined… but with a dash of scintillating appeal.

Top: Mandarin, Orange Flower and Sicilian Lime
Heart: Tiare, Freesia, Water Lilies, Jasmine, Orris and Ylang
Base: Cedar, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Moss and Musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Feminine white.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE TIARE:  lyrical, serene, bewitching

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT TIARE:  Bois de Jasmin, Perfume Shrine, Fragrance Bouquet

BOTTOM LINE:  I’m a bit behind on my introduction to the Ormonde Jayne line of perfumes, but late is never too late to experience wonderful.  In fact, there are a few in the line that sing to me just as much as Tiare, which may just end up as part of my private collection.  I love beautiful, classic perfumes that elevate your mood to a special place; Tiare does just that and I’m in love.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Geza Schoen
  • Classification: Lean’s feminine but a man could wear it.
  • Expense:  $150 for 50 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.


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New Release: Puredistance Warszawa & Sample Draw

WHAT I SMELL:   Warszawa has a surprising opening with a sweetened violet that has a candied coating, which smells very similar to Valentine candy hearts (the kind with sayings on them).  That sweet opening calms considerably in a few minutes letting in a fresh, yet restrained grapefruit note.  What seemed not so subtle at the initial spritz becomes very subtle in a short matter of time.   After the initial violet and grapefruit impressions, the perfume becomes seamless as individual notes blend without distinction.  Instead, the perfume moves to a sweet and tarty and lightly soured persona.  The perfume is sweet without being overtly so and the tartness when breathed in, seems to pull the air out to constrict your nostrils.  In addition, a light spice peppers the top of the perfume.  In a way, it feels rather like an exotic confectionary treat.  After 15 minutes or so, a light powder begins to dust the perfume and it now feels very bright and feminine while at the same time warm and inviting.  Warszawa unfolds like a day’s journey; the perfume starts bright and sweet like the dawn of a new day.  As the day wears on, the spice of the florals add life and energy and then finally, the perfume provides a finishing crescendo as if entering the grand ball at the end of the evening.  This is where the perfume settles into its final incarnation; a beauty that is unique as the noble city that bears its name.

From the Puredistance website:

Inspired by the class and elegance of Polish women and the rich history of the city of Warsaw, WARSZAWA evokes the chic of the golden days of Fashion and Perfume. This perfume has style, warmth – great depth of character – and will make you feel beautiful in a lush way. It will transport you to another world, a dreamy world, where you will feel elated and dizzy – in a good way.

Notes:  Galbanum, Grapefruit, Violet leaf, Jasmin Absolute, Broom absolute, Orris butter, Patchouli, Vetiver and Styrax.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Pastel flowers – soft and muted, very feminine, very retro

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE WARSZAWA:  semi-sweet, semi-tart, classic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT WARSZAWA:  Odiferess, Parfumistans Blogg, Perfume Posse

BOTTOM LINE:  The first time I put on Warszawa, I wondered if this would be the one Puredistance perfume that wouldn’t be a love for me.  The sweetened opening was rather a surprise, but after the perfume began to emerge with its softer and more powdery edge I knew I was hooked.   Warszawa isn’t an all-occasion everyday perfume.  Instead, it’s a perfume you wear when you feel the need to be “grand.”

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Antoine Lie
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense:  295 Euros for 60 ml parfum extrait.  Also available in 100 ml.

DRAW:  The Puredistance team is graciously offering a 2 ml sample to three lucky Scented Hound readers.  This draw is open to all readers worldwide.  To enter, please complete the following:

  1. “Like” the Puredistance Facebook Page
  2. Enter a comment on this post as to why you would like to experience Warszawa or comment on your favorite Puredistance perfume.

To be included in the draw, the above two requirements must be completed by midnight Eastern Standard Time on November 11, 2017.  Three winners will be chosen at random and announced the week starting on November 12, 2017.  Good luck!