The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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New Release: Puredistance No. 12

WHAT I SMELL:  No. 12 opens with a soft, buttery bergamot that’s infused with citrus and lightly sweetened florals that go on smooth as silk.  From first spritz the perfume is elegance personified as there’s nothing sharp as the now lightly warmed florals seem to infuse into your being as if the perfume isn’t just resting on your skin, but becomes part of it.  The ylang-ylang is front and center initially, but hints of rose peek through every now and then.  After some time, the perfume withdraws a bit, making it rather quiet as a slightly metallic rose makes its way in replacing the ylang-ylang as the center of attention.  The perfume still retains its buttery and silky finish as it starts to become warmer and grows in projection.  After some more time, the butter makes way for the powder which makes the florals all that more feminine.  Continuing on, No. 12 deepens and warms with a lightly weighted mix of amber and softened sandalwood.   Overall the perfume is seamless in its development and its infusion of ingredients.  As such, I’m not sure I’m giving it justice with my description.  So in the end, the best way to describe No. 12 is to envision a beauty descending slowly down a grand staircase at the start of the magnificent ball.  You can’t help but turn your head and take in the radiant grace and warmth of her spirit.  Let the festivities begin! 

From the Puredistance website:

A grand perfume that wraps around you like a cashmere veil… A perfume like no other, in many ways timeless and hard to describe with words. No.12 perfectly embodies the DNA of Puredistance: timelessly beautiful, elegant and very distinctive in character

Top Notes: Bergamot oil, Mandarin oil, Cardamom oil, Coriander oil, Ylang Ylang oil, Narcissus abs

Middle Notes: Jasmin abs, Rose oil, Geranium oil, Lily of the Valley, Orange Blossom, Osmanthus abs, Orris Butter, Heliotrope, Hedione HC

Base Notes: Vetyver, Sandalwood oil, Patchouli oil, Oak moss, Tonka, Ambrette note, Ambroxan, Vanilla, Musks.

Lady in waiting of Empress Alexandra Feodorovna (wife on Nicholas I) by Gavril Yakovlev, 1850′s.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Royal blue.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE No. 12:  grand, graceful, classic, warm, inviting, rapturous…ok, so that’s more than three words, but I probably could add another 20 and in the end it wraps up to just one word…gorgeous.

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT No. 12The Plum Girl, PerfuManiac, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  No. 12 is the last entry into the Puredistance Magnificent XII collection of perfumes.  And what a way to seal off an already amazing set of fragrances.  With No. 12, perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer has created a classic that harkens back to the day when perfumes were created that were simple in their beauty while also being fantastically grand.  I have always stated that White was my favorite perfume in the Puredistance collection, but I am thinking that No. 12 may have just changed my mind.  No worries though as I can love them both!

  • Bone Rating: 5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Nose: Nathalie Feisthauer
  • Classification:  Leans feminine
  • Expense: Starting at 175 Euros for 17ml parfum extrait (25% perfume oil).


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Delina La Rosée by Parfums de Marly

delina-la-roseeWHAT I SMELL:  Delina La Rosée opens with a bright and luscious combo of lychee and pear.  The fruit is ripe and not overly sweet, but incredibly juicy as if it’s dripping all of its harvested goodness while being drenched in sparkling water.  Bergamot begins to enter which leads the perfume down the pathway away from the fruit and to the floral.  As the florals begin to enter the room, a soft and lightly sweetened peony makes the first impression followed by a dry and somewhat chalky rose.  But as this transition takes place, the fruits of the opening begin to pop up as if they’re trying to take center stage again.  Here the perfume bounces in a lilting manner between the fruit and flowers.  The perfume is lightly sugared, pretty and nicely airy so that the sweetness doesn’t become anything but pleasant.  At this point the perfume is just so wonderfully enticing as it dances lightly on the skin.  At times the perfume glides into a pink bubblegum aura, but it’s just little puffs of candied goodness that grace the perfume from time to time.  In the end, Delina La Rosée settles to a comforting combination of the fruity and floral while sitting on a bed of quiet wood and musk.

From the Parfums de Marly website:

A blend of transparent water flowers and peony recall multiple notes of fresh, velvety, impertinent, and delicate rose. The most regal of these notes, Turkish rose, unfolds in elegance.

Pear, lychee, and bergamot scents add a gourmand touch while a perceptible but subtle base of wood, white musk and vetiver envelops the senses.

A moment of freshness, Delina La Rosée brightens the skin from morning to night with a vibrant radiance and unforgettable scent.

cup of pinkTop notes:  Lychee, Pear, Bergamot Essence

Heart notes:  Turkish Rose, Peony, Transparent flowers

Base notes:  Soft wood, White Musk, Vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A refreshing cup of pink.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE DELINA LA ROSÉE:  fresh, delightful, buoyant

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DELINA LA ROSÉE:  CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Delina La Rosée is delightful in every way.  Wearing it lends itself to putting the bright into even the most gloomy of moods.  Plus it’s perfect for the current hot summer days.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Fruity Floral
  • Nose: Quentin Bisch
  • Classification:  Leans feminine
  • Expense:  $295 for 75 ml parfum


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Vintage Ma Griffe by Carven

WHAT I SMELL:  Ma Griffe opens with bright aldehydes followed by a mix of florals that turn surprisingly green.   There’s an undercurrent of rapturous warmth that sits below the florals that makes the perfume heady and full-bodied in a rather provocative manner.  Ma Griffe is not shy in the least and as it goes on she tells you exactly who she is right from the beginning.  As the perfume continues to develop, there’s a note or combination of notes that reminds me of slightly worn silk undergarments.  It’s a mix of perfume, powder and just a hint of light sweat gained from normal daily activity.  As such, this makes Ma Griffe a veritible seductress.  As the perfume continues to morph, the florals begin to deepen with tonka bean taking root along side a drying oak moss.  Here, Ma Griffe is fully in charge and makes it known that she is all woman and doesn’t mind if you call her a dame.

Top notes: Aldehydes, clary sage, galbanum, bergamot
Heart notes: Gardenia, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose
Base notes: Cinnamon, tonka bean, vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The unapologetic user of men; Barbara Stanwyck in the pre-code classic movie “Babyface.”

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MA GRIFFEbold, seductive, empowered

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MA GRIFFE:  Yesterday’s Perfume, Smelly Blog, Perfume Shrine

BOTTOM LINE:  I acquired the bottle pictured above years ago from a woman who was cleaning out her aunt’s estate.  I believe it’s from the 1970’s or ’80s and is the EDT “mis-s-s-ster” version.  The “mister” no longer works so it comes out of the bottle dribbling from under the sprayer.  I imagine that the mister would provide a bit of a softer experience, but I can’t say for sure.  For me, Ma Griffe is interestingly bold and beautiful, but I find that it’s not something I gravitate to or wear very often.  I think’s it’s because I like my vintage perfumes to have a bit of a soft side and Ma Griffe is anything but soft from start to finish.  Still, it’s a pretty darn amazing perfume.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre Floral
  • Classification:  Feminine
  • Expense:  Prices for vintage vary considerably on concentration, etc.