The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Vintage Ma Griffe by Carven

WHAT I SMELL:  Ma Griffe opens with bright aldehydes followed by a mix of florals that turn surprisingly green.   There’s an undercurrent of rapturous warmth that sits below the florals that makes the perfume heady and full-bodied in a rather provocative manner.  Ma Griffe is not shy in the least and as it goes on she tells you exactly who she is right from the beginning.  As the perfume continues to develop, there’s a note or combination of notes that reminds me of slightly worn silk undergarments.  It’s a mix of perfume, powder and just a hint of light sweat gained from normal daily activity.  As such, this makes Ma Griffe a veritible seductress.  As the perfume continues to morph, the florals begin to deepen with tonka bean taking root along side a drying oak moss.  Here, Ma Griffe is fully in charge and makes it known that she is all woman and doesn’t mind if you call her a dame.

Top notes: Aldehydes, clary sage, galbanum, bergamot
Heart notes: Gardenia, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose
Base notes: Cinnamon, tonka bean, vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The unapologetic user of men; Barbara Stanwyck in the pre-code classic movie “Babyface.”

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MA GRIFFEbold, seductive, empowered

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MA GRIFFE:  Yesterday’s Perfume, Smelly Blog, Perfume Shrine

BOTTOM LINE:  I acquired the bottle pictured above years ago from a woman who was cleaning out her aunt’s estate.  I believe it’s from the 1970’s or ’80s and is the EDT “mis-s-s-ster” version.  The “mister” no longer works so it comes out of the bottle dribbling from under the sprayer.  I imagine that the mister would provide a bit of a softer experience, but I can’t say for sure.  For me, Ma Griffe is interestingly bold and beautiful, but I find that it’s not something I gravitate to or wear very often.  I think’s it’s because I like my vintage perfumes to have a bit of a soft side and Ma Griffe is anything but soft from start to finish.  Still, it’s a pretty darn amazing perfume.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre Floral
  • Classification:  Feminine
  • Expense:  Prices for vintage vary considerably on concentration, etc.


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Bvlgari Noorah

Have you ever become obsessed about a perfume you wish you owned?  Well, for me that perfume was Bvlgari’s Noorah.  A few years back while wandering through Duty Free at the Bangkok airport, I came across a display for the Bvlgari La Gemme collection which I had heard of, but hadn’t experienced.  Many of the perfumes in the collection were incredible, but Noorah stood out and was love at first spritz.  But always cost conscious I found the price was just too high so I walked away from a purchase;  that is, after I drenched myself in the perfume.  Sitting atop my cloud of perfume on the plane was pure delight and thus began my obsession.

Of course, after spending a great deal of money on vacation, I put perfume purchases out of my mind.  I then found out a couple of years ago, that the perfume had been discontinued and that piqued my interest in Noorah once again.  I saw that there were some decent prices on eBay, but being in Mexico, shipping is impossible.  But luckily a year ago, I found the perfume on Amazon Mexico for a decent price.  I was thrilled that I had finally found my holy grail until I received the perfume and it was clear that it was a fake.  Thanks to Amazon, I got an immediate refund without any questions.

Then recently, I found Noorah on a fragrance website that actually ships to Mexico…and at a great price!  So one month later (yes, it takes that long for shipments to arrive in Mexico) I finally was re-introduced to my obsession.  Does it live up to my memories?

WHAT I SMELL:  Noorah has a strange opening that’s mildly chewy and a little waxy with what seems to be chocolate and sometimes leather combined with a Playdoh iris.  I have to say that this weird opening is not my favorite primarily because the chocolate note has a soured edge that is a bit off-putting.  But given all that, the initial wear is rather quiet and subdued.  As the perfume continues to develop, a light cardamom and pepper with just a hint of honey is added which gives an extra light bite.  However, overall the perfume remains soft and lightly creamy as the waxy wanes to just plain smooth.   After some time, Noorah begins to come out from under her creamy veil with a light powdery sweetened iris with hints of pepper.  It’s baby soft, lightly projected and incredibly pretty with the perfect mix of lightly sweet and lightly powdered.  As the perfume continues to develop, a lightly warmed wood slides in below the powdered haze.  In the end, Noorah leaves the wearer cocooned in a powdered iris cloud.  Heavenly.

Additional note:  Noorah’s DNA seems to change a great deal with the weather.  Warm and humid, the perfume has great projection and the woody note at the end is more prominent.  Cool and dry weather keeps the the perfume very powdery with light projection that’s close to the skin.  Either way, the perfume is fantastic.

From the Bvlgari website:

From Nishapur, the long journey from Orient to Occident. Turquoise takes us on a journey along the Silk and Spice Routes of yore. The most beautiful specimens come from the region of Nishapur, an exceedingly ancient city in Central Asia, and one of the crossroads of the mythical Silk Route. Caravans belonging to Turkish traders brought the turquoise to Europe, giving the gemstone its name. A stone of the bright blue sky, a nomad gem recalling open spaces. Noorah, an evocative name embodying the exuberance of the infinite heavens. Its rich, mysterious and sensual fragrance captures the magnificence of the Silk and Spice Routes. Narguile Vapors – Candied Dates – Laotian Benzoin.

Notes:  Iris, tobacco, oak, benzoin, honey, galbanum, vanilla, ginger, cardamom, patchouli.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Hues of pink and violet, scarves, makeup and powder…and oh so much glamour.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE NOORAHsoft, elegant, powdery

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NOORAH:  No reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  So is Noorah the perfume that I remember?  Yes, it is.  I was a bit worried when I first sprayed it on my skin, but after a short time, the beauty of the perfume and my memories of that first plane ride wearing it came rushing back.  In other words, I have no regrets with my purchase.  Mission accomplished…off to my next perfume obsession!

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chype Floral
  • Nose:  Daniela Andrier
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: Prices vary depending on purchase location.  Available in 100 ml eau de parfum.


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November Surprise – Vintage Guerlain Chant d’Arômes Eau de Cologne

I think most of us would agree that 2020 has been a challenging year at best.  The year for me thus far seems to have come to a crescendo in October.  October ended with the 3rd Tropical Storm/Hurricane of the season, thankfully none of which caused too much damage besides record setting amounts of rain.  Some friends found their houses leaking with water damage and/or flooding.  Ours managed to maintain.  But at the same time, and during storm 3, we had to move out of our house because we sold it.  Yes, people do buy homes in foreign lands during a pandemic.  And yes, we too were surprised.  Add to the stress of moving, our movers decided at the last minute they could not store our belongings as they said they could.  That’s a challenge because there is not any climate controlled storage here in Merida and the heat combined with antiques is not a good combination.  So, at the last minute we were able to find a rental that worked out perfectly.   But as 2020 keeps giving; two weeks prior to our move on a quiet Sunday afternoon someone decided to run a stop sign and broadside our car.  Thankfully we weren’t hurt, but the car is still on the shop.  So needless to say, this is why I haven’t posted in a month.  It has been stressful to say the least.

But now it’s November, we’re settled into our beautiful rental.  We’re starting the process for building our new house which is to be completed in a year.  We’re happy and healthy and we have a new President-elect which will hopefully bring promise for a better 2021.   So no complaints because we have plenty to be thankful for.  And add just a bit of a cherry on top to it all, I managed to find an unopened vintage bottle of Guerlain Chant d’Arômes.  I love the vintage Guerlain colognes and this is no exception and a great way to slide into November and a promise of a new beginning.

WHAT I SMELL:  Chant d’Arômes opens with soft and lightly sweetened florals which are greeted with bright aldehydes.  There’s a light powder and a slight metallic edge that seems to drift off rather quickly as the soft, light and bright florals take center stage.  The perfume is more of a collection of flowers than of compartmentalized notes.  The florals meld together to make for a spring bouquet of warm and enticing beauty.  Never harsh, nor too strong, the perfume is softness personified.

From Fragrantica:

Guerlain Chant d’Aromes was created by Jean-Paul Guerlain in 1962. This is a fragrance for a woman which wears perfume for the sake of her pleasures only. It is a floral bouquet that talks a language of flowers. This perfume contains natural essences and belongs to the ‘chypre’ olfactory group. The main notes are aldehydes, gardenia, mirabelle, jasmine, cloves, honeysuckle, ylang-ylang, heliotrope, benzoin, oliban and vetiver.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Contentment.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHANT D’ARÔMES:  light, happy, innocent

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHANT D’ARÔMES:  The Black Narcissus, The Non-Blonde, Perfume Shrine

BOTTOM LINE: Chant d’Arômes is a soft and pretty perfume that is infinitely easy to wear.  In reading other reviews of the perfume, it seems like the EDT and extrait have essences of peach, which I don’t find with the EDC version.  Instead, I just get a delightfully calming spread of innocent florals.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Chypre Floral
  • Nose:  Jean-Paul Guerlain
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense:  Varies for vintage