The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Ormonde Jayne Tiare

WHAT I SMELL:   What a lovely way to start off the new year.  Tiare’s opening is wonderfully fresh with a luminescent orange met with a gorgeous and slightly sour orange blossom.  The perfume is citrus at first, but soon the rush of flowers come sweeping forward.  These flowers shine bright and sing in the softest way with ladylike joy wrapped in serenity.  The perfume is based on the tiare flower, but to me, the tiare does not stand out amongst the other floral in the composition.  Instead, the ylang-ylang is slightly more pronounced, but that’s ok because overall the perfume is divine.  A very light soapy note brushes the flowers, but not in a way to make the perfume soapy.  After quite some time, a mossy cedar note enters, giving a light dimension like that of pencil shavings and it’s the perfect base for the innocence of the flowers.  As the perfume settles, it retains this ethereal beauty that seems to dance upon the skin.  Tiare is not harsh, loud, nor groundbreakingly different.  What it is however, is beyond beautiful…a classic stunner.

From the Ormonde Jayne website:

Like precious jewels resting on dark green foliage, the unsurpassed beauty of the Tiare flower is hand-picked whilst still unopened and laid in oil for 15 days to extract the fragrance. Like the woman who wears Tiare, this is a perfume that totally ignores seasons and the time of day, a perfume so artfully blended and infinitely refined… but with a dash of scintillating appeal.

Top: Mandarin, Orange Flower and Sicilian Lime
Heart: Tiare, Freesia, Water Lilies, Jasmine, Orris and Ylang
Base: Cedar, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Moss and Musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Feminine white.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE TIARE:  lyrical, serene, bewitching

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT TIARE:  Bois de Jasmin, Perfume Shrine, Fragrance Bouquet

BOTTOM LINE:  I’m a bit behind on my introduction to the Ormonde Jayne line of perfumes, but late is never too late to experience wonderful.  In fact, there are a few in the line that sing to me just as much as Tiare, which may just end up as part of my private collection.  I love beautiful, classic perfumes that elevate your mood to a special place; Tiare does just that and I’m in love.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Geza Schoen
  • Classification: Lean’s feminine but a man could wear it.
  • Expense:  $150 for 50 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.


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New Release: Puredistance Warszawa & Sample Draw

WHAT I SMELL:   Warszawa has a surprising opening with a sweetened violet that has a candied coating, which smells very similar to Valentine candy hearts (the kind with sayings on them).  That sweet opening calms considerably in a few minutes letting in a fresh, yet restrained grapefruit note.  What seemed not so subtle at the initial spritz becomes very subtle in a short matter of time.   After the initial violet and grapefruit impressions, the perfume becomes seamless as individual notes blend without distinction.  Instead, the perfume moves to a sweet and tarty and lightly soured persona.  The perfume is sweet without being overtly so and the tartness when breathed in, seems to pull the air out to constrict your nostrils.  In addition, a light spice peppers the top of the perfume.  In a way, it feels rather like an exotic confectionary treat.  After 15 minutes or so, a light powder begins to dust the perfume and it now feels very bright and feminine while at the same time warm and inviting.  Warszawa unfolds like a day’s journey; the perfume starts bright and sweet like the dawn of a new day.  As the day wears on, the spice of the florals add life and energy and then finally, the perfume provides a finishing crescendo as if entering the grand ball at the end of the evening.  This is where the perfume settles into its final incarnation; a beauty that is unique as the noble city that bears its name.

From the Puredistance website:

Inspired by the class and elegance of Polish women and the rich history of the city of Warsaw, WARSZAWA evokes the chic of the golden days of Fashion and Perfume. This perfume has style, warmth – great depth of character – and will make you feel beautiful in a lush way. It will transport you to another world, a dreamy world, where you will feel elated and dizzy – in a good way.

Notes:  Galbanum, Grapefruit, Violet leaf, Jasmin Absolute, Broom absolute, Orris butter, Patchouli, Vetiver and Styrax.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Pastel flowers – soft and muted, very feminine, very retro

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE WARSZAWA:  semi-sweet, semi-tart, classic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT WARSZAWA:  Odiferess, Parfumistans Blogg, Perfume Posse

BOTTOM LINE:  The first time I put on Warszawa, I wondered if this would be the one Puredistance perfume that wouldn’t be a love for me.  The sweetened opening was rather a surprise, but after the perfume began to emerge with its softer and more powdery edge I knew I was hooked.   Warszawa isn’t an all-occasion everyday perfume.  Instead, it’s a perfume you wear when you feel the need to be “grand.”

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Antoine Lie
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense:  295 Euros for 60 ml parfum extrait.  Also available in 100 ml.

DRAW:  The Puredistance team is graciously offering a 2 ml sample to three lucky Scented Hound readers.  This draw is open to all readers worldwide.  To enter, please complete the following:

  1. “Like” the Puredistance Facebook Page
  2. Enter a comment on this post as to why you would like to experience Warszawa or comment on your favorite Puredistance perfume.

To be included in the draw, the above two requirements must be completed by midnight Eastern Standard Time on November 11, 2017.  Three winners will be chosen at random and announced the week starting on November 12, 2017.  Good luck!


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Vintage Guerlain L’Heure Bleue

WHAT I SMELL:  This particular vintage L’Heure Bleue (why do I say it that way?  you’ll see below) eau de toilette opens with a bright and sweet bergamot and spicy anise which first goes on cool to the touch, but then warms considerably and quickly.  It smells mysterious and serious and rather mature and slightly medicinal.  This is not your Britney Spears of perfumes, but is a perfume that instead dazzles and sings with wisdom and grace.  There’s not a great deal of development as the perfume settles in to reside in a floral meld with a spicy carnation and tuberose center that is dusted with a violet powder that wraps the perfume in mysterious wisdom.

The top notes are opening with spicy-sweet aniseed and fresh bergamot that gently lead to the heart of rose, carnation, tuberose, violet, and neroli. The soft and powdery floral notes are resting on a base of vanilla, Tonka bean, iris and benzoin.

Blue silk floral applique gown by Valentino.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A romantic blue silk evening gown.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE L’HEURE BLEUE:  mild, measured, solemn

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’HEURE BLEUE: Kafkasesque, Bois de Jasmin, Monsieur Guerlain

BOTTOM LINE:  The review above it based on a 1980s sample received from the wonderful Undina.  It’s bright, yet serious and very powdery.. and I love it.  I recently found a 1980s unopened EdT bottle on eBay for next to nothing.  The bright top notes seemed to have faded away and unlike the version I’m writing about, it’s pretty, but much darker has much more rounded florals.  It’s nice, but it doesn’t carry the fresh feel like the sample I reviewed.  Then a couple of weeks ago I was in an antique store and found this massive Bacarrat bottle (200 ml?) of extrait from the 1930s/40s.  There was a sale at the store and I got the 1/2 filled perfume bottle for a great price.  The stopper was stuck and thanks to Mr. Freezer, I was able to dive into this treasure.  Again, after all these years, the top notes have faded, but the heart is glorious, deep, rich and very serious.  So three different versions and 3 very different perfumes.  I have to say that the light and pretty 1980s version is a dream and probably my favorite of the three.  But overall, none of the versions project on my skin.  Maybe it’s me that’s the problem?

IMG_0799This story just keeps getting longer…so about a week after I started writing the above, I felt compelled to purchase a bottle of the current version in the eau de parfum formula.  A great price added with a coupon I couldn’t refuse right?  Actually, I wasn’t quite sure if I was going to like it… but to my surprise I adore it.  It’s not quite as sunny as the vintage Undina sample, but it’s lighter and sweeter than my vintage EdT and parfum.  There’s a little incense in it and a little powder as it’s completely understated.  But what it defined for me, is that no matter what formula the perfume is in…my skin just eats it up and that means it has a pretty short lifespan on me.  That’s unusual for me, but I’m OK with it because I love to slather myself in any and all versions.   BTW, the new EdP layered with my old vintage EdT is divine!

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Nose: Jacques Guerlain
  • Classification: Marketed as feminine but to me it’s very unisex
  • Expense: Prices vary for vintage versions, but the current EdP can be purchased for as low as $60 for 100 ml.