The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


6 Comments

Guerlain Lui

WHAT I SMELL:  Lui opens with a warm, lightly spiced benzoin that’s deeply sensuous and lightly tar like, but without the heavy weight.  Soon enough, a buzzing carnation makes an entrance in the quietest of ways.  And then, a nutmeg and clove spice begins to take shape after a short time adding just a bit of a bite.  The perfume is rather brooding in it’s spicy persona with a mix of benzoin, leather and vanilla spice carrying the perfume on its journey.  In the end, you’re left with a light smoky dry haze of a perfume that hugs close to the skin.

From the Guerlain website:

Feminine. Masculine. Why choose? LUI is a fragrance that likes to blur the boundaries. Not entirely feminine, nor truly masculine, it is both at once. Inspired by a generation that is breaking free from gender norms, Guerlain had the idea of an unmistakably universal fragrance.

Its ambiguous fragrance trail is based on benzoin: floral, spicy and woody in turn, this resin is revealed in all of its complexity as the composition created by perfumer Delphine Jelk unfolds. Fused with powdery and spicy carnation accents, they form an equally unexpected and harmonious blend.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   Autumn in Paris.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE LUI:  reserved, contemplative, semi-spicy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LUI:  The Black Narcissus, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  I love Guerlain perfumes, but I don’t love Lui.  Truly a fall and winter perfume, the nutty-ish spice almost reminds me of the season’s tragic “pumpkin spice” phenomena.  And weirdly, Lui doesn’t make me feel any emotion as I wear it.  Instead, it just rather bores me.

  • Bone Rating:  2.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Spicy Woody Floral
  • Nose:  Delphine Jelk
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $185 for 50 ml eau de parfum


17 Comments

Bucoliques de Provence by L’Artisan Parfumeur

bucoliques-de-provenceWHAT I SMELL:  Not surprisingly, Bucoliques de Provence opens with a soft cashmere iris which is soon met with a deep brown sugared and herbal lavender.  It’s slightly medicinal, but very comforting; and in all it’s just so pretty and calming.  Soon, a mix of herbs and spices pepper the lavender, making the perfume feel a bit chewy vs. the standard powdered dry lavender that we associate with the note.  As the perfume continues to develop, it begins to flatten and it takes on a more woody consistency.  At the same time, the spices really come forward…actually, in a quite caustic manner.  What used to be calming, now has an unfortunate bite.  After quite some time, the lavender turns to a laundry detergent familiarity and the perfume feels like it should be used as more of a bed or room spray.  Supposedly there is some leather in here, but I’m not picking any of it up.  Instead I am getting a dried flower kitchen witch vibe…and that’s not a good thing.  After quite some time, the iris comes back in with a light powder and the kitchen witch begins to dissipate.  The perfume becomes soft and kind of pretty…but unfortunately I’m left with a headache caused by the kitchen witch development

kitchen-witch

Kitchen Witch

From the L’Artisan Parfumeur website:

Bucoliques de Provence is a limited edition fragrance. It marks the beginning of a new collection inspired by different regions of France. This perfume pays homage to the history of Grasse. Perfumery in this region with its distinctive lavender fields, dates back to the 17th century and is linked to the historic production of leather. The perfumer has combined lavender and leather with iris and spices creating a soft, faceted scent. Bucoliques de Provence is modern in its pure and naturalistic approach.

Inspired by the savoir-faire of artisans in Grasse, an accord of leathery lavender, modernised by iris and spices.

gray-gooseWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A gray goose…kind of pretty, but not as pretty as a white swan, a little annoying and not as fun as a duck.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BUCOLIQUES DE PROVENCE: wannabe, wafting, cleanser

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BUCOLIQUES DE PROVENCE: The Scented Salamander, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: The perfume’s opening is divine until you get to the kitchen witch in the middle which makes you want to run.  In the end, the perfume does calm down and becomes a quiet powdered iris, but that’s not enough of a save to make me want to come back.

  • Bone Rating:  2.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Leather?
  • Nose: Fabrice Pellegrin
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $105 for 50 ml eau de parfum


21 Comments

New Release – Tauerville Fruitchouli Flash

Fruitchouli-Flash-30mlWHAT I SMELL:  Fruitchouli Flash does open with a flash…a flash of warm, peach, apricot and ripe fruit, topped with a nutty, rather carameled syrup.  It is rich, thick, heavy and interestingly burnt.  The perfume smells like a fruit and nut topping that you would put on an ice cream sundae.  After around five minutes, the syrupy thickness gives way, but the fruity sweetness begins to really grow and project.  At this point it’s hard to tell where the fruity ends and the patchouli begins as this is just, sweet upon sweet.  After some more time, the fruity turns to floral.  Though still sweet, it now feels like a bit of caramel has covered a bouquet of flowers vs. a fruit compote.  As the perfume continues to develop, the sweets adds an undercurrent of creaminess and the perfume becomes smoother.  After quite some time, the perfume begins to pull considerably back with the sweetness and the woody patchouli seems to air the perfume out.  In the end, the fruity floral sweetness is still there, but it thankfully recedes to softer level.

Fragrance Notes:

Apricot, Peach, Rose, White Flowers, Musk, Patchouli

Lydia Bright - 1mb.jpg

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A deluge of sweet caramelized fruity cream.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE FRUITCHOULI FLASH:  over-the-top

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT FRUITCHOULI FLASH: Now Smell This, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  I just dabbed on the smallest amount on my wrist and I think the sweetness travelled up to my mouth and I’m about to lose a couple of teeth.  You really have to love sweet perfumes to like Fruitchouli Flash.  It makes me feel like I just left the ice cream parlor and that sticky sweet bright atmosphere is still stuck to my skin.

  • Bone Rating:  2 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral Fruity
  • Nose: Andy Tauer
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: The price is very right at $63 for 30 ml eau de parfum.