The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Signature Wild by Art de Parfum

WHAT I SMELL:  Signature Wild’s opening is bright and sparkling with a fresh blast of herbal spice which moves quickly to a bone dry flattened fruit.  The perfume takes on a slightly sour edge that feels like it has been drained of juice and has been left out to dry and age.  Soon, the sour and light decay start to retreat and a warm labdanum seems to roll on in like a fog covering the horizon.  At this point, the perfume becomes more rugged and incredibly sexy.  There’s a hefty beef that’s evident, but it’s not in the way that overt…instead it radiates confidence.  A quiet and subdued leather is then met with a lightly sweetened balsam and a buzzing vetiver.  Here the perfume remains…unassuming with subdued sexiness that’s easy to wear.

From the Art de Parfum website:

UNAPOLOGETICALLY DARK AND WILD.

This highly addictive fragrance combines a powerful leather accord with the boozy and syrupy davana herb and sweet delicacy of orange blossom

TOP NOTES: cinnamon, davana, cardamon

MIDDLE NOTES: orange blossom, dried fruits, radiant woods

BASE NOTES: labdanum (cistus), leather, sandalwood, Peru balsam, Haitian vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Robert Mitchum.  Smoldering sexuality and quiet virility.  A little dangerous and always in control.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SIGNATURE WILD:  self-assured, unpretentious, manly

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SIGNATURE WILD:  Colognoisseur, The Scented Apprentice, I Scent You A Day

BOTTOM LINE:  Art de Parfum debuted five fragrances in 2016.  Signature Wild is my favorite in the line, but there is something for everyone from a refreshing cologne (Gin & Tonic) to a beautiful and mysterious rose oud (Sensual Oud).  Nicely done Art de Parfum!

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Leather
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: $135 for 50 ml parfum extrait

*Sample provided by Art de Parfum.  Opinion my own.


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New Release: Mandrake by Parfums Quartana

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Parfums Quartana’s collection of perfumes, Les Potions Fatales explores the treacherous beauty and intriguing lore behind nine of the world’s most poisonous flowers. At once tantalizing and perilous, these mortal fleurs have been used to nefarious ends throughout history. These flowers and the aptly named perfumes are seductive on the outside but are ultimately dark, sinister, and dangerous.   The poison that wooed me and called my name was Mandrake.

WHAT I SMELL:   Mandrake opens with a snappy bergamot which quickly turns to more of a ripened red apple which swiftly moves into a Bazooka bubble gum accord.  But that soon turns to a soft and sweet floral that’s creamy smooth and completely comforting.  The sweetness never hits a high pitch and as it develops it levels itself out, but there’s just enough sparkle to make this really delightful and engaging.  The perfume begins to linger in this lightly sweetened, cotton candy and bubble gum creamed state for quite some time.  That’s not a bad thing and don’t think because it’s has the bubble gum accord that this is for teenagers; it’s not.  After quite some time, a bit of leather appears along with a muted spice and a light incense.  At this point, the perfume is irresistible, sexy and overwhelmingly enticing.  In the end, the perfume melds into a wonderful sweetened patchouli and it reminded me of Dior’s Gris Montaigne…which is a good thing!

From the Parfums Quartana website:

In biblical scripture, mandrake was referred to as ‘the love plant’ and was through to have male fertility enhancing properties; as such it was mentioned by Shakespeare in “Midsummer Night’s Dream” as a cure for erectile dysfunction. Long used in Wiccan ritual, its roots were thought to emit a fatal, supersonic scream when dug up. Because mandrake actually smells of strong red apple, we gave the fragrance a red fruity heart but grounded it with birch leaf and birch root to suggest the roots of the flower dug into the soil. We also gave the fragrance a sharp aromatic note to suggest its infamous, deadly shriek.

Crisp Apple, Pomegranate, Birch Leaf, Birch Root, Bergamot, Mandrake Flower Accord, Rhubarb, Cardamom, Sueded Leather, Deadly Addiction Accord, Patchouli, Madagascar Vanilla, Sandalwood, Tonka

386px-dale_robertson_tales_of_wells_fargo_1957WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Yesteryear cowboy…rather clean cut with just a little rugged and lots of handsome and sexy.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MANDRAKE:  inviting, tempting, satisfying

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MANDRAKE: Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  The full line of the Parfums Quartana Les Potions Fatales perfumes are each interesting in their own way and completely different and varied, from the strange and unique (Bloodflower, Wolfsbane and Midnight Datura) to the more traditional (Hemlock, Lily of the Valley) with Mandrake fitting somewhere in between.  I highly recommend checking them out!

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Leather
  • Nose:  Carlos Vinals
  • Classification: Marketed as masculine, but I found this to be very unisex.
  • Expense: $145 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.  Opinion my own.


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Jermyn Street by Floris

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WHAT I SMELL:  Jermyn Street opens with a sparking bergamot and a lightly sugared mandarin.  The opening is warm, incredibly refreshing, bright and rather formal.  Soon, the vibrant opening moves more towards a woody flatness that’s slightly herbal.   The perfume is really hard to describe at this point, but what comes to mind is a bit of chalkiness, just like the smell when you wipe down and clean a chalkboard with water.  But that evolution doesn’t last all that long as well, and instead a light sweetness moves back in.  The perfume is full of small nuances and is very restrained and proper and clean and neat.  As it continues to develop, the juniper berry gives the perfume a gin martini vibe, but one with just a dash of cream and a splash of soap.  At this point, the perfume becomes warm and comforting as the amber wraps itself around the musky woody notes.  At the same time, projection increases, but not enough to shout, but just enough to make you noticeable.

From the Floris website:

Inspired by what has been the backbone of the family business for nearly 300 years in the unique area of London that is St James’s and our home at 89 Jermyn Street, this fragrance, like its inspiration has the feel of refined elegance, understated class and style. Drawing on notes of gin with a splash of lemon, an initial burst of citrus and green notes have been blended with the theme of vetiver. The vetiver runs through the fragrance from its introduction to the base and is supported in the heart, accompanied by juniper with a contemporary twist of coriander, a subtle complement in gin creation. The fragrance also draws inspiration from the London plane trees which proudly still stand in front of the shop today, and the fresh scent of fine crisp cotton found within the renowned shirtmakers residing in the iconic location named after Henry Jermyn in 1664.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Green Vetiver, Violet
Heart Notes: Coriander, Vetiver, Armoise, Juniper Berry
Base Notes: Amber, Cedarwood, Musk, Vetiver

Best Dressed HipsterWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The perfect perfume for the best dressed hipster.  Classic with just enough modern to make it all the perfect for an old school vibe.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE JERMYN STREET:  proper, effortless, bonny

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT JERMYN STREET: Candid Magazine

BOTTOM LINE:  Jermyn Street is a proper, yet effortless perfume for the modern and classic man.  Clean and sophisticated without being stuffy, it’s an easy fit for anyone.  I love perfumes like this…even though I may not be dressed to the nines, when you spritz this on you feel like you are.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Citrus Aromatic
  • Nose: Edward Bodenham
  • Classification: Leans masculine
  • Expense: $192 for 50 ml eau de parfum