The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


2 Comments

Ormonde Jayne Zizan

WHAT I SMELL:   The first spritz of Zizan is a blast of citrus that is quickly tempered with a light mix of pepper and herbs.  It’s very clear from the beginning that Zizan is classic male fragrance…there’s nothing avant-garde here.  As it continues to develop, a sweetened floral mix entwines with the herbs as it warms the skin.  Soon enough, a green vetiver comes forward with a lemony edge.  Actually, it smells a bit like Lemon Pledge at this point.   But at soon as I say that, it starts to have a boxing match with a more woody amber.  There is a lot of movement with Zizan which is fine with me as I can’t wait to see where it settles down.  As the perfume continues to morph, the warmth intensifies and there’s an increase in its projection off of the skin.  At this point, the vetiver has a rather sharp edge, but lingering below may be some other notes to rein it in.  After ten more minutes, the vetiver bows to the light amber.  Still peppery and woody, Zizan begins to quiet down with just the right amount of fight.

From the Ormonde Jayne website:

Zizan, a perfume like no other because it has everything a man could possibly want in a single spectacular scent. This is a powerhouse perfume. Expect a deluge of boisterous Sicilian lime, lemon and bergamot but to smooth the biting edge, a brilliantly refined concentration of vetiver.

HEAD:  Sicilian Lime, Lemon, Bergamot, Clary Sage, Pink Pepper and Juniper Berry

HEART:  Bay, Violet and Jasmine

SOUL:  Vetiver, Cedar, Musk and Amber

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Classic in its approach, Zizan’s confidence spreads to the wearer.  Think Herb Alpert’s 1960’s classic album, “Whipped Cream & Other Delights.”  Full of energy and oh so sexy.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ZIZAN:  confident, secure, classic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ZIZAN:  Manface, Perfume Shrine, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE:   Sometimes I find myself wanting to wear a classic men’s fragrance rather than something unisex.  Zizan fits the bill as it exudes a hefty dose of masculinity without being too overt or offensive.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Citrus Aromatic
  • Nose:  Geza Schoen
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: $150 for 50 ml eau de parfum.  Also available in 30 ml or 100 ml.

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.


7 Comments

Robert Graham Valour

WHAT I SMELL:   Valour has an incredibly wonderful opening that’s made up of bergamot and brown sugar goodness.  It tingles and sparkles like light brown amber crystals.  Not long after the initial opening, the light sugared deliciousness begins to warm as a wonderful creaminess begins to smooth out the sparkle.  The brown sugar (which never is too sweet) feels as if its mixed within the cream along with the lightest note of coffee.  At the same time a clary sage enters adding a marvelously herbaled dimension to the lightly gourmand mix. Eventually, the perfume moves away from the enjoyably edible and takes on a more traditional amber tone.  Valour feels as if it should be heavy and hefty, but instead it remains restrained and contained.  In the end, Valour remains an ambered hue of masculinity wrapped up in gentle sophistication.

From the Robert Graham website:

The art of audacity and boldness for the loyal and the dynamic. The bulldog has always been a symbol of fierce individuality and willful intelligence a fitting way to top off such a determined essence housed in a faceted decanter and finished with a foulard print. This bottle gives a nod to the well-dressed modern gentlemen.

This blended essence walks the line between fresh and sybaritic mixing top notes clary sage coffee santos and amber wood to give it the epitome of eclectic sophistication.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A 1970s sophisticate.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE VALOUR:  easy, smooth, subtle

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT VALOUR: CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Valour is one of three perfumes in the “Collector’s Trio” which also includes Fortitude and Courage, but Valour is my favorite.  The perfume is nicely refined and very easy to wear.  It does have a nostalgic vibe to it, which to me, makes it all that more attractive.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Spicy
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense:  $125 for 100 ml blended essence (I’m not sure if that means cologne, eau de toilette or eau de parfum)


15 Comments

Russkaya Kozha by Berdoues

WHAT I SMELL:  Russkaya Kozha has a discordant and biting opening that quickly moves to a flattened wood tinged with leather and oud.  There’s a sour edge and a pungent aspect, like worn leather pants that have absorbed the dirt and sweat from the wearer.  The perfume is beefy without being weighted, but it does have presence.  After a few minutes, the funky opening starts to sweeten and a wonderful radiating amber and benzoin ride above the now rough hewed sueded leather.  There’s a slight booziness that meets the mix and what was a bit rough and tumble at the beginning is now confidently sophisticated.  It also seems like there may be a light rose note buried under the leather, but I’m not seeing that listed as one of the notes.  The perfume settles down into a warmed smoky leather that is masculine without being overt but is still clearly in charge.  Instead, it projects confidence in a wonderful grandeur that is born from the majestic heart of Mother Russia.

From the Berdoues website:

An elegant leather perfume.

All the sophistication of Russia captured in a glass bottle. A blend of the noblest raw materials, Russkaya Kozha develops into an intense, mysterious perfume through the combination of Cade wood from Spain, Siam Benzoin from Malaysia and Cardamom from Guatemala.

Russkaya Kozha is a leathery, amber perfume that bares eternal Russia’s soul through the blend of Cade wood and an elegant accord of Benzoin from Malaysia and Cardamom from Guatemala.  An elegant and sophisticated Grand Cru.

Prince Alexander Konstantinovich Gorchakov

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A perfume fit for a Russian Prince.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE RUSSKAYA KOZHA:  secure, cultivated, resolute

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RUSSKAYA KOZHA:  Colognoisseur, The Perfume Expert

BOTTOM LINE:  Russkaya Kozha is a lovely leather perfume that feels refined, yet still embodies the rough edges that come with the harsh environments of the Russian landscape.  This is a really nice leather perfume that doesn’t overwhelm the wearer and as a cologne, this has incredible lasting power.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Leather
  • Nose: Flavien Laurandeau
  • Classification: Leans masculine, but easily unisex
  • Expense: $80 for 100 ml eau de cologne