The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


2 Comments

Roja Parfums Oceania

Hard to believe that it’s already 2022.  The past two years have been challenging at best, but with the beginning of a new year there’s a promise of rebirth with positive energy.  So I wanted to start off this new year with a perfume that beckons of adventures to come.   Hopefully the world will reopen this year and travel and exploration will once again be part of our collective.  We have to believe that there are some exciting new adventures on the horizon!

WHAT I SMELL:   Oceania opens with a sparkling bergamot and a clean and fresh lemon that quickly moves to the more herbal highlighted with a tinge of lime.  It’s soft, unassuming and very easy on the nose as it resides quietly on the skin with the lightest of a whisper as if a lovely breeze brushes it off of your skin.  The perfume soon begins to quietly grow with a very subdued geranium and a soft jasmine creating a pretty heart within the lightly salted citrus.  Here, the florals begin to round out and push out the citrus from the center.  Oceania isn’t a perfume with twists and turns, instead it slowly melds into it’s finish which is not far off from first spritz.  As such, in the end, Oceania lives in a gentle cocoon of light moss with the whisper of florals resting on top of a lightly salted sandalwood.  Oceania is quietly beautiful.

From the Roja Parfums website:

“Deeply concerned by the vulnerability at the heart of our fragile oceans, a donation from every sale of Oceania Eau De Parfum will be made to charities dedicated to protecting our precious seas. Echoing the infinity of our oceans, this fragrance opens with a wave of invigorating freshness from Bergamot, Lime and Mandarin. Geranium and Jasmine drift in on the breeze from a nearby island, whilst Moss, Sandalwood and Orris offer a warm caress as if kissed by the sun, whose light reflects on the waves.” – ROJA DOVE.

A Citrus cocktail opens this creation and runs throughout, as Lemon and Grapefruit mingle with Bergamot, Mandarin and Lime. Fresh, aromatic Herb notes extend the distinct freshness of this accord and mingle beautifully down into a floral heart based around the fresh sweetness of Geranium and the creamy, exotic tones of Jasmine. A bold base acts like velcro, enabling this resolutely fresh composition to stay close to the skin and permeate throughout the day, mingled around a dry, natural base of Moss notes and the skin-like combination of Sandalwood and Orris.

KEY INGREDIENTS: Bergamot, Lime, Mandarin, Geranium, Jasmine Sambac, Moss Notes, Sandalwood, Orris

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The free flying seagull; one with the ocean below and the sky above.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE OCEANIA:  soft, contemplative, serene

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT OCEANIA:  Fashion for Lunch

BOTTOM LINE:  Oceania is probably the quietest of any Roja Parfums perfume that I have experienced.  While quiet, it is amazingly beautiful and when you wear it it feels like it’s just meant for you.  And the fact that a portion of each sale goes to helping preserve our oceans, makes it just that much more special of a perfume.  And for those of you who think the bottle is as important as the perfume, the Oceania bottle and cap are exquisite.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Aromatic
  • Nose:  Roja Dove
  • Classification: Masculine, but easily unisex
  • Expense:  $380 for 100 ml eau de parfum


4 Comments

Bvlgari Garanat

GaranatWHAT I SMELL:   Garanat opens with a hint of spiced cinnamon that very quickly turns to the rose.  The perfume is soft and creamy, yet at the same time it grabs the wearer because it demands attention as it grows in volume and its middle eastern gravitas.  There’s not a lot at play with Garanat, the perfume is a straight shot of incense infused deeply intoxicating beefish oriental rose.  As such, it doesn’t change much except for the incense becoming a bit more pronounced along with a woody timbre.  But from the beginning to the end, Garanat is masculine and incredibly sexy all while being a perfect gentleman.  Who knew rose and incense could be so incredible?  It’s a simple as that.

From the Bvlgari website:

Inspired by the deep Red Garnet from Bosphorus, the fragrance conveys masculine strength and forerightness. The crimson gemstone shines in the darkness, bringing its wearer the impassioned courage and vision of Suleyman the Magnificent, the most seducing Sultan of the Ottoman Empire.

A dense, spellbinding swirl of an ardent and masculine rose entwined with noble smoked incense for a mesmerizing fragrance of supreme virile force.

Notes: Cinnamon Essence, Rose Absolute, Smoked Incense

1549547182-yasser (1)WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Middle Eastern sexiness; Egyptian actor Yasser Galal.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE GARANATbold, manly, refined

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GARANAT:  No reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  Garanat is not a perfume full of twists and turns.  Once it goes on, you get rose and incense and that’s where it stays for hours.  Garanat is a simply elegant, long lasting masculine beauty.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental
  • Nose: Jacques Cavallier
  • Classification: Leans masculine
  • Expense: $332 for 100 ml eau de parfum.


4 Comments

Vintage Ma Griffe by Carven

WHAT I SMELL:  Ma Griffe opens with bright aldehydes followed by a mix of florals that turn surprisingly green.   There’s an undercurrent of rapturous warmth that sits below the florals that makes the perfume heady and full-bodied in a rather provocative manner.  Ma Griffe is not shy in the least and as it goes on she tells you exactly who she is right from the beginning.  As the perfume continues to develop, there’s a note or combination of notes that reminds me of slightly worn silk undergarments.  It’s a mix of perfume, powder and just a hint of light sweat gained from normal daily activity.  As such, this makes Ma Griffe a veritible seductress.  As the perfume continues to morph, the florals begin to deepen with tonka bean taking root along side a drying oak moss.  Here, Ma Griffe is fully in charge and makes it known that she is all woman and doesn’t mind if you call her a dame.

Top notes: Aldehydes, clary sage, galbanum, bergamot
Heart notes: Gardenia, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose
Base notes: Cinnamon, tonka bean, vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The unapologetic user of men; Barbara Stanwyck in the pre-code classic movie “Babyface.”

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MA GRIFFEbold, seductive, empowered

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MA GRIFFE:  Yesterday’s Perfume, Smelly Blog, Perfume Shrine

BOTTOM LINE:  I acquired the bottle pictured above years ago from a woman who was cleaning out her aunt’s estate.  I believe it’s from the 1970’s or ’80s and is the EDT “mis-s-s-ster” version.  The “mister” no longer works so it comes out of the bottle dribbling from under the sprayer.  I imagine that the mister would provide a bit of a softer experience, but I can’t say for sure.  For me, Ma Griffe is interestingly bold and beautiful, but I find that it’s not something I gravitate to or wear very often.  I think’s it’s because I like my vintage perfumes to have a bit of a soft side and Ma Griffe is anything but soft from start to finish.  Still, it’s a pretty darn amazing perfume.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre Floral
  • Classification:  Feminine
  • Expense:  Prices for vintage vary considerably on concentration, etc.