The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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New Release: Hermann A Mes Cotes Me Paraissait Une Ombre by Etat Libre d’Orange

Hermann1-500x500WHAT I SMELL:  Hermann A Mes Cotes Me Paraissait Une Ombre or Hermann, as it will be known from this point forward, opens up quite musky with a tingling pepper and a rather aqua-esque green.  But soon enough, the perfume moves to a dusty and brown vetiver.  The perfume feels artificially clean, but at the same time artificially earthy.  After a bit more, a light incense covers the perfume with shards of a sweetened floral patchouli which provides the perfume’s central core.  Overall, the perfume feels like it was manufactured in a factory next to the industrial detergents.  Need I go on?…OK…if I must.  Moving forward, the moisture is completely sucked out of the perfume and there’s a steely gray and metallic sharp edge that makes Hermann feel like it sits on a linear plane, like a flattened laser beam that crosses the horizon.  Of course, as soon as I start writing that, the perfume begins to soften and lightly powder.  At the same time, Hermann becomes incredibly dry; so much so, that breathing it in makes you feel as if your sinuses are about to cave in.  As the perfume is a play on shadows, I have to say that it leaves you with an aura and an “alternative self” because it does feel as if the perfume follows one as a shadow.  I gave Hermann several wearings and each time it made me head to the sink to look for my heavy-duty medical soap and scrubber.  Unfortunately, it left me with a shadow that I just couldn’t shake.

From the Etat Libre d’Orange website:


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Byredo Gypsy Water

Gypsy WaterWHAT I SMELL:  Gypsy Water opens with a glaze of lemon tinged juniper and pine, almost like that of Lemon Pledge, but with a sweeter vanilla finish which takes it from Lemon Pledge to more of a lemon custard.  After a short time, the perfume begins to soften and them lemon becomes light and tart and slightly sour with addition of a quiet incense and wood.  I was expecting Gypsy Water to be a lively and phrenetic fragrance, but instead, it’s rather subdued and unassuming.  After around 20 minutes, the pine, amber and sandalwood come together to provide for a creamy, but lightly incensed powdered warmth.  In the end, Gypsy Water is a lightly warmed quiet woody perfume, that although unassuming, is rather mysterious.

From the Byredo website:

GYPSY WATER IS A GLAMORIZATION OF THE ROMANY LIFESTYLE, BASED ON A FASCINATION WITH THE MYTH. THE SCENT OF FRESH SOIL, DEEP FORESTS AND CAMPFIRES EVOKES THE DREAM OF A FREE, COLORFUL LIFESTYLE CLOSE TO NATURE.

TOP: BERGAMOT, LEMON, PEPPER, JUNIPER BERRIES
HEART: INCENSE, PINE NEEDLES, ORRIS
BASE: AMBER, VANILLA, SANDALWOOD

warm breezeWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A warm breeze lilting through the forest.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE GYPSY WATER:  quiet, comforting, peaceful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GYPSY WATER: Perfume Posse, What Men Should Smell Like, Katie Puckrik Smells

BOTTOM LINE:  Gypsy Water doesn’t have a lot of projection, but is instead a really nice skin scent that is unique with its citrus and woody incense combination.  It’s perfect for the office, or for those quiet days when you want to feel special just for yourself and no one else.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Woody Aromatic
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $145 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum


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Philosykos by Diptyque

philosykosWHAT I SMELL:  Philosykos opens with one second of sparkling ozone followed by this inviting coconut and fig.  It’s green and feels earthy and rooty like vines that are meeting the ground and attaching themselves to the earth below.  There’s a creaminess that helps to create what feels like a lush carpet of wood and green and mildly ripening fruit.  For some reason I was expecting this to be sweet, but it’s far from that.  Instead, the perfume is subdued and pulsates within the heart of the jungle with a comforting earthiness.  After around 15 minutes the fragrance warms with a sugared spiced cedar and a light soapiness adding more comfort and security to an already comforting perfume.  Be forewarned however that a little goes a long way with Philosykos.  If you get heavy-handed with your application, this could be way too overpowering.

From the Diptyque website:

In the heat of a Greek summer, “to get to the sea,” recalls Yves, “you had to walk through a natural orchard of wild fig trees.” Returning from Paris, Desmond brought back a few leaves of these trees in a little box. Years later, the leaves had lost none of their fragrance. Philosykos, which in Greek means “friend of the fig tree,” is an ode to the entire tree: the green, pungent freshness of the leaves, the wood warmed in the sun, the milky flavor of the fruit.

Notes from Fragrantica;

Top notes are fig leaf and fig; middle notes are coconut and green notes; base notes are cedar, woody notes and fig tree.

Red Monkeys and FigWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: What in my mind, Borneo smells like.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PHILOSYKOS:  inviting, comforting, creamy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PHILOSYKOS: Olfactoria’s Travels, The Scentualist, The Smelly Vagabond

BOTTOM LINE: Philosykos is the perfect perfume for those sunny spring and summer days when you don’t want to fuss and muss with your wardrobe or your perfume.  It’s a comfortable, carefree and easy to wear perfume that makes me wish I could walk outside barefoot and lie in a hammock in the backyard.  If only it wasn’t 30 degrees outside!!!                                          

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Woody Aromatic
  • Nose:  Olivia Giacobetti
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $90 for 50ml EdT from the Diptyque website