The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Vilhelm Parfumerie – London Funk

WHAT I SMELL:  London Funk opens with a fresh basil and bergamot with an interesting cardamom note that quickly slides right in.  It’s fresh and inviting and really full of life.  Soon, the perfume begins to warm and it feels like it’s beginning to sugar, like a concentrated sugar reduction as it’s not sweet, but rather vibrant and somewhat thick.  And a short while after, a little bit of the “funk” begins to roll in.  It’s just a slight undercurrent of something that I can’t distinguish that seems to be simmering under a woody note.  It’s not unpleasant, but it’s almost as if you smell a little something off under the outside decking of a local pub. By this time the initial top notes have made their way out of the door a woody vetiver has entered becoming the main attraction.  London Funk at this point really projects with hints of leather and herb (cannabis?) which seems to grow as I write.  But the perfume never gets too funky and instead rides this high impact and slightly bitter woody mix that seems very familiar without being able to exactly put your finger on it.  Overall, London Funk is a very tenacious perfume that keeps on giving for a very long time.

From the Vilhelm Parfumerie website:

The slap of a wood bat on a leather ball, followed by intense giggling and the sound of fabric rustling. It’s five o’clock at Biba in London and Jim Morrison is leading a young Debbie Harry astray with a Long Island Iced tea, and a game of cricket in the stock room. Can you smell all the possibilities that curled into a trippy London afternoon in the Seventies? They certainly could.

Top notes: Juniper, Basil, Cardamom, Bergamot.
Heart notes: Blackcurrant Bud, Driftwood.
Base notes: Vetiver, Yerba Maté, Cedarwood, Amber Gris, Sandalwood.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Like the back deck of the Atlanta Eagle bar.  A mix of wood, leather, beer, smoke, plastic, sweat, cologne and lots of other bar related smells.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE LONDON FUNK:  bold, vibrant, familiar (but how, I’m not sure)

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LONDON FUNK:  No written reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  London Funk is more funky than funk.  In reading what I have written about “What I Smell” my descriptors are pretty obtuse.  But that’s because I find that London Funk is a perfume that’s hard to describe or categorize.  What it is however, is a perfume that is not for everyday use and I wouldn’t recommend it for the office.  It’s not that it’s not a pleasurable perfume, but as it has a large personality and I’m not sure one’s coworkers would appreciate it.  But as for a night on the town at your favorite club…absolutely!

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Aromatic
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Starting at $90 for 20 ml eau de parfum


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Byredo Mixed Emotions

WHAT I SMELL:   Mixed Emotions opens with a beautiful minty fresh cassis which moves ever so slightly to the evergreen in a rapid manner.  Almost immediately, the perfume feels as if it resides on the edge of the forest where the green and the fruits seem to beckon all living things to commune with its ripened juice.  After a short while, the fruit begins to quiet and soften, but the blackcurrant sweetens with the addition of a hint of violet while a soft tea note begins to enter.  Here the perfume becomes more contemplative.  Did I say contemplative?  In a very short time, the perfume starts to move towards the semi-funky when wafts of light sweat come into play.  For non-perfumistas that may sound like a horrible thing, but for those in the know, it can be enticing; and in this case, it’s exactly that.  As the perfume continues to develop, a light violet begins to occupy the space where the blackcurrant resided along with the lightest of tea and incense.  Here, the perfume is once again contemplative, soft and engaging and to me, very, very pretty.  In the end you’re left with a quiet, lightly sweet musk of a perfume.  Mixed Emotions is pretty and rather intimate in just the right kind of way.

From the Byredo website:

Mixed Emotions, an epicene scent designed to reflect the tumultuous nature of our times.

Drawing on the Byredo philosophy of translating fragmented memories and abstract ideas into scent, Mixed Emotions presents an olfactive sketch of our current, collective state of mind. Comforting notes of maté and the sharp sweetness of cassis sit within a wooden framework; the reassuring scent of black tea disturbed by violet leaf synthetics.

Mixed Emotions Notes – 

Top: Mate, Blackcurrant

Heart: Ceylon Black Tea, Violet Leaves

Base: Birch Woods, Papyrus

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Mixed emotions?  Maybe.  But to me, it’s sweet emotions.  (And to clarify further, that means sweet related to love vs. sweet related to sugar!)

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MIXED EMOTIONS:  soft, pretty, contemplative

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MIXED EMOTIONS:  Perfume Posse, Editorialist, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  There’s no confusion as far as I’m concerned.  Mixed Emotions is a beautiful perfume that is quietly pretty and a delight to wear.  Even better, it’s one of those perfumes that is perfect for any mood or occasion whatever it may be.  Wonderful.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Aromatic
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  Approx $196 for 50 ml eau de parfum


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Roja Parfums Oceania

Hard to believe that it’s already 2022.  The past two years have been challenging at best, but with the beginning of a new year there’s a promise of rebirth with positive energy.  So I wanted to start off this new year with a perfume that beckons of adventures to come.   Hopefully the world will reopen this year and travel and exploration will once again be part of our collective.  We have to believe that there are some exciting new adventures on the horizon!

WHAT I SMELL:   Oceania opens with a sparkling bergamot and a clean and fresh lemon that quickly moves to the more herbal highlighted with a tinge of lime.  It’s soft, unassuming and very easy on the nose as it resides quietly on the skin with the lightest of a whisper as if a lovely breeze brushes it off of your skin.  The perfume soon begins to quietly grow with a very subdued geranium and a soft jasmine creating a pretty heart within the lightly salted citrus.  Here, the florals begin to round out and push out the citrus from the center.  Oceania isn’t a perfume with twists and turns, instead it slowly melds into it’s finish which is not far off from first spritz.  As such, in the end, Oceania lives in a gentle cocoon of light moss with the whisper of florals resting on top of a lightly salted sandalwood.  Oceania is quietly beautiful.

From the Roja Parfums website:

“Deeply concerned by the vulnerability at the heart of our fragile oceans, a donation from every sale of Oceania Eau De Parfum will be made to charities dedicated to protecting our precious seas. Echoing the infinity of our oceans, this fragrance opens with a wave of invigorating freshness from Bergamot, Lime and Mandarin. Geranium and Jasmine drift in on the breeze from a nearby island, whilst Moss, Sandalwood and Orris offer a warm caress as if kissed by the sun, whose light reflects on the waves.” – ROJA DOVE.

A Citrus cocktail opens this creation and runs throughout, as Lemon and Grapefruit mingle with Bergamot, Mandarin and Lime. Fresh, aromatic Herb notes extend the distinct freshness of this accord and mingle beautifully down into a floral heart based around the fresh sweetness of Geranium and the creamy, exotic tones of Jasmine. A bold base acts like velcro, enabling this resolutely fresh composition to stay close to the skin and permeate throughout the day, mingled around a dry, natural base of Moss notes and the skin-like combination of Sandalwood and Orris.

KEY INGREDIENTS: Bergamot, Lime, Mandarin, Geranium, Jasmine Sambac, Moss Notes, Sandalwood, Orris

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The free flying seagull; one with the ocean below and the sky above.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE OCEANIA:  soft, contemplative, serene

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT OCEANIA:  Fashion for Lunch

BOTTOM LINE:  Oceania is probably the quietest of any Roja Parfums perfume that I have experienced.  While quiet, it is amazingly beautiful and when you wear it it feels like it’s just meant for you.  And the fact that a portion of each sale goes to helping preserve our oceans, makes it just that much more special of a perfume.  And for those of you who think the bottle is as important as the perfume, the Oceania bottle and cap are exquisite.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Aromatic
  • Nose:  Roja Dove
  • Classification: Masculine, but easily unisex
  • Expense:  $380 for 100 ml eau de parfum