The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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November Surprise – Vintage Guerlain Chant d’Arômes Eau de Cologne

I think most of us would agree that 2020 has been a challenging year at best.  The year for me thus far seems to have come to a crescendo in October.  October ended with the 3rd Tropical Storm/Hurricane of the season, thankfully none of which caused too much damage besides record setting amounts of rain.  Some friends found their houses leaking with water damage and/or flooding.  Ours managed to maintain.  But at the same time, and during storm 3, we had to move out of our house because we sold it.  Yes, people do buy homes in foreign lands during a pandemic.  And yes, we too were surprised.  Add to the stress of moving, our movers decided at the last minute they could not store our belongings as they said they could.  That’s a challenge because there is not any climate controlled storage here in Merida and the heat combined with antiques is not a good combination.  So, at the last minute we were able to find a rental that worked out perfectly.   But as 2020 keeps giving; two weeks prior to our move on a quiet Sunday afternoon someone decided to run a stop sign and broadside our car.  Thankfully we weren’t hurt, but the car is still on the shop.  So needless to say, this is why I haven’t posted in a month.  It has been stressful to say the least.

But now it’s November, we’re settled into our beautiful rental.  We’re starting the process for building our new house which is to be completed in a year.  We’re happy and healthy and we have a new President-elect which will hopefully bring promise for a better 2021.   So no complaints because we have plenty to be thankful for.  And add just a bit of a cherry on top to it all, I managed to find an unopened vintage bottle of Guerlain Chant d’Arômes.  I love the vintage Guerlain colognes and this is no exception and a great way to slide into November and a promise of a new beginning.

WHAT I SMELL:  Chant d’Arômes opens with soft and lightly sweetened florals which are greeted with bright aldehydes.  There’s a light powder and a slight metallic edge that seems to drift off rather quickly as the soft, light and bright florals take center stage.  The perfume is more of a collection of flowers than of compartmentalized notes.  The florals meld together to make for a spring bouquet of warm and enticing beauty.  Never harsh, nor too strong, the perfume is softness personified.

From Fragrantica:

Guerlain Chant d’Aromes was created by Jean-Paul Guerlain in 1962. This is a fragrance for a woman which wears perfume for the sake of her pleasures only. It is a floral bouquet that talks a language of flowers. This perfume contains natural essences and belongs to the ‘chypre’ olfactory group. The main notes are aldehydes, gardenia, mirabelle, jasmine, cloves, honeysuckle, ylang-ylang, heliotrope, benzoin, oliban and vetiver.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Contentment.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHANT D’ARÔMES:  light, happy, innocent

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHANT D’ARÔMES:  The Black Narcissus, The Non-Blonde, Perfume Shrine

BOTTOM LINE: Chant d’Arômes is a soft and pretty perfume that is infinitely easy to wear.  In reading other reviews of the perfume, it seems like the EDT and extrait have essences of peach, which I don’t find with the EDC version.  Instead, I just get a delightfully calming spread of innocent florals.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Chypre Floral
  • Nose:  Jean-Paul Guerlain
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense:  Varies for vintage


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Guerlain Lui

WHAT I SMELL:  Lui opens with a warm, lightly spiced benzoin that’s deeply sensuous and lightly tar like, but without the heavy weight.  Soon enough, a buzzing carnation makes an entrance in the quietest of ways.  And then, a nutmeg and clove spice begins to take shape after a short time adding just a bit of a bite.  The perfume is rather brooding in it’s spicy persona with a mix of benzoin, leather and vanilla spice carrying the perfume on its journey.  In the end, you’re left with a light smoky dry haze of a perfume that hugs close to the skin.

From the Guerlain website:

Feminine. Masculine. Why choose? LUI is a fragrance that likes to blur the boundaries. Not entirely feminine, nor truly masculine, it is both at once. Inspired by a generation that is breaking free from gender norms, Guerlain had the idea of an unmistakably universal fragrance.

Its ambiguous fragrance trail is based on benzoin: floral, spicy and woody in turn, this resin is revealed in all of its complexity as the composition created by perfumer Delphine Jelk unfolds. Fused with powdery and spicy carnation accents, they form an equally unexpected and harmonious blend.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   Autumn in Paris.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE LUI:  reserved, contemplative, semi-spicy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LUI:  The Black Narcissus, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  I love Guerlain perfumes, but I don’t love Lui.  Truly a fall and winter perfume, the nutty-ish spice almost reminds me of the season’s tragic “pumpkin spice” phenomena.  And weirdly, Lui doesn’t make me feel any emotion as I wear it.  Instead, it just rather bores me.

  • Bone Rating:  2.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Spicy Woody Floral
  • Nose:  Delphine Jelk
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $185 for 50 ml eau de parfum


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A Visit to the Mexico City Guerlain Boutique & Joyeuse Tubéreuse Review

The Scented Hound and hub just got back from a short getaway to Mexico City, which is quickly becoming one of our favorite places to visit due to its rich heritage, beautiful parks, incredible restaurants, fantastic shopping and numerous and interesting museums, not to mention the warm and friendly people.  Now that the first Guerlain Boutique is open in Latin America, a “must-stop” for anyone travelling to Mexico City is located in the El Palacio de Herrerio Perisur department store.  Located outside the central city, the boutique was an easy Uber ride from where we were staying and completely worth the trip.

The first thing you notice when you step into the boutique is a display of all the colorful bee bottles.  To be honest, looking at the collection is a bit head spinning knowing that you have the option to put your favorite perfume into one of these spectacular little jewels of a bottle…but I’m getting ahead of myself.

As soon as I walked in, I was warmly greeted by the boutique staff as well as the boutique manager, Alberto Plata. Unfortunately, he spoke very little English and I speak very little Spanish.  But without hesitation, Melina Rodriguez, makeup artist, came over from the Guerlain makeup department to help translate.  We were all business at first, but through “fun with translation” and just having a great time, we all quickly became fast friends.

So with the hub sitting patiently on the side, Alberto had me sit down for a fragrance consultation.  Of course, having already a collection of Guerlain perfumes, both current and vintage, I pretty much knew what I was looking for, but I wanted to go through the consultation process to see what it would reveal.  Alberto started off with questions about the comforts of home, foods that I like, special memories associated with smell, etc.  I revealed that I love luxury in the bedroom with nice linens, but that my favorite food is pizza.  I knew I was going to be a challenge.  After going through the questions, I was then asked to rate the smell of some blotters.  After putting this information into their consultation system, it revealed that my fragrance personality was “Floral/Fresh.”  I clearly had no arguments with this as I do love my florals!   Given that and based on other provided information, the system made four recommendations for perfumes:

  1.  Chamade Pour Homme – My goal for the day was to buy a bottle of this lovely perfume which I had just written about.  So far I was impressed with the results!
  2. Samsara – Samsara is already in my collection.  I have a big bottle of vintage parfum that I wear when I want to be noticed.  It really is a spectacular perfume….still impressed with the results.
  3. Bois d’Armenie – This recommendation was a bit of a surprise as it’s an oriental.  I like the perfume, but knew it was not for me because wearing it in the heat and humidity of Merida would make it suffocating except for the one or two months where it was just a bit cooler out.
  4. Joyeuse Tubereuse – Another surprise because the perfume was no where on my radar of something that might be to my liking.  Actually, it stole my heart.

As I mentioned, I knew that Chamade Pour Homme was on my “to buy” list, but I decided to go ahead with a purchase of the Joyeuse Tubereuse as well.  So off to the bee bottles…

Of course, you can purchase the perfumes in their original bottles, but how many times do you have the opportunity to have your very own customized bee bottle?  Alberto and Melina led me over to the display case where I picked out a lovely green bottle for the Joyeuse Tubereuse and a grey bottle for the Chamade.  The next task was for me to decide what to have etched on the bottle.  I chose for both, a simple font of my initials.  The bottles were then placed in the etching machine and given to the technicians.  Here, the technicians suited up in sterilized robes and gloves prepared the bottles for filling.  First, they cleaned the bottles out with alcohol and then with a small amount of the perfume and then filled the bottles, recording on the bottom the perfume batch information.  These ladies were masterful in their handling of the product and it was so fun to be able to witness their skills.

One of the things that I was not thrilled about with the bee bottles is that they’re only available in splash.  Not to worry, for each perfume I was given a 30 ml refillable spray bottle and funnel.  And too boot, as part of the purchase I was given a free gift of a suede fringe purse…not really my thing, but it’s beautiful and it will make for a fabulous present for someone special.

The technician’s ended up wrapping up my new treasures in the most beautiful of way and after sharing hugs we ventured off on our way.  This truly was a fun and wonderful experience.  The customer service from Alberto and Melina and staff was exceptional and I left feeling like I had some new friends.  I cannot wait to head back to Mexico City….in fact I wish I would have purchased a bottle of my beloved Chamade in parfum extrait….but that just means that I’ll have to go back sooner than later.  Thanks Guerlain, for making Mexico City just that much more wonderfully perfumed.

JOYEUSE TUBÉREUSE REVIEW – 

WHAT I SMELL:  Joyeuse Tubéreuse opens with freshest of green stems.  The perfume is soft, pretty and feels like dew that’s sitting on top of the morning’s fresh cut flowers.  A tinge of lily starts off the fresh introduction of florals with the mildest of tuberose coming in slowly.  There’s nothing harsh with the pretty white florals; instead they glide in effortlessly and remain in the most delicate of state.  Still dewy, the perfume brings promise of a beautiful spring day ahead.  As the perfume develops, the tuberose begins to take it’s place as the quiet focus of the perfume and the perfume begins to lightly warm with the softest of vanilla.  Joyeuse Tubéreuse makes wearing tuberose and easy joy with its soft and light touch.

From the Guerlain website:

An airy and radiant tuberose. Exquisitely innocent, amazingly fresh.  Floral green.
Top notes: green notes.
Heart notes: tuberose, lily, sambac jasmine.
Base notes: sandalwood, vetiver, vanilla.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A fresh and dewy spring morning.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE JOYEUSE TUBÉREUSE:  Soft, serene, fresh

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT JOYEUSE TUBÉREUSE:  CaFleureBon, The Black Narcissus, Stephan Matthews

BOTTOM LINE:  Joyeuse Tubéreuse is a simple perfume…simply lovely.  But that’s part of it’s charm.  It doesn’t take you on a ride of development. Instead, it eases you into a spring day in the most perfect of way.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Classification:  Leans feminine
  • Expense: $260 for 2.5 oz. eau de parfum