The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Vintage Guerlain Chamade Eau de Cologne

I love living in my adopted country of Mexico, but will wholeheartedly admit that one of the downsides of living in this beautiful country is the access to perfume.  Mexicans love their perfume; when you walk down the street everyone leaves behind a trail of perfumed bliss.  That said, you can find the standard department store fragrances without issue, but anything out of the ordinary (niche or high end) is impossible to get, at least here in the Yucatan.  And forget shipping from overseas, Mexico, like many countries, does not allow for the shipment of “flammable liquids.”  So yes, getting the latest and greatest new releases in a timely manner is something that I have had to learn to live without.

Another thing I miss is the ability shop on eBay.  Instead, here they have a similar site called MercadoLibre.  But perfume shopping is pretty much limited to the same perfumes found in the stores.  Of course, that doesn’t keep me from scanning the site every now and then just as I did the other day.  To my surprise, someone was selling an unopened bottle vintage bottle of Guerlain Chamade Eau de Cologne.  They said the bottle was 200 ml and in researching pricing, I found it to be a pretty good deal.  So I thought what the heck, this doesn’t happen every day and I have never ordered anything from MercadoLibre, so I went for it.  The shipper said they would ship “next day,” but I have to admit I was skeptical.  Two days after placing my order, a heavy box arrived from Mexico City.  I opened the box which was packed perfectly and found the largest bottle of perfume I had ever seen.  My first thought is that it was a factice, but once I put my nose up to the stopper I could clearly smell that it was indeed perfume.  The perfume didn’t come with a box, and the size was not labeled on the bottle.  After some research it was determined that the bottle is a 16 oz. or 500 ml bottle….for the size, the purchase turned out to be an incredible deal.

For size comparison, the Vol de Nuit on the left is 3 oz. and the Mitsouko on the right is 1.7 oz.

I love my Guerlains with Vol de Nuit being one of my all time favorite perfumes, but I never really paid much attention to Chamade.  A light green floral is perfect for the hot weather here, but that doesn’t mean I would like the perfume.  So did I make a good purchase?

WHAT I SMELL: 

The beauty of Chamade is instantaneously revealed with it’s opening of bright sparkling aldehydes which quickly meld with a green stem-ladened hyacinth.  This is spring in a bottle…I picture bouncing lambs running on hills of green.  The opening of this perfume is utterly delightful and so incredibly pretty.  For being a vintage bottle that is most likely from the 1970s, the top notes are surprisingly intact.  The perfume stays in this greenish floral bliss for quite some time, but after some time its met with a layer of powder that smells like makeup.  After more time, the galbanum takes front and center as the perfume dries out and continues to powder.  The perfume is green without being too sharp and to me this makes this easier to wear.  And just when I thought the perfume couldn’t get any prettier, out comes a floral heart with rose at the center topped with a comforting smooth vanilla and sandalwood combination, which helps to cut the powdery green.  Here, the perfume moves from the spring to the more serious…or should I say more seriously beautifully refined and mature.

From the Guerlain website:

For the first time in perfumery, Guerlain introduced to a formula the green and fruity accent of blackcurrant bud, freshened with a green harmony of hyacinth. Lastly, this symphony is embellished with Guerlinade, which majestically showcases jasmine, vanilla and sandalwood.

One of these Easter lovelies is probably wearing Chamade…which one is it?

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Although launched in 1969, Chamade to me is quintessentially early to mid-1960s as it’s rooted in the past and not so much in the modern era of the time.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHAMADE:  springtime, happiness, contentment

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHAMADE:  Yesterday’s Perfume, Perfume Posse

BOTTOM LINE: Chamade, where have you been all of my life?  This perfume is so pretty and easy to wear that it might be one of those perfumes that just doesn’t get the love that it deserves.  As for me, I’ll continue to search on MercadoLibre for the parfum extrait version.  Chamade is truly a love.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Fruity Floral Oriental
  • Nose:  Jean-Paul Guerlain
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense:  Varies for vintage


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Guerlain Nuit d’Amour

WHAT I SMELL:   Nuit d’Amour opens softly with lightly sweetened lychee fruitiness that swiftly blends with a touch of pink pepper and a softened rose that seems to be puffed with air floating underneath.   The perfume is rather dreamy and is surrounded in a cloudy haze that hovers over the perfumed skin.  Soon enough, a soft violet blends itself in the dreamy concoction.  But here the violet is less innocent, but more knowing and rather mature.  After a short time, a sandalwood begins to form as the base.  Never heavy, it makes the perfect resting place for the lightly warmed florals.  In the end, the perfume quiets even more, leaving you in a powdery haze of light florals wrapped in musky gauze.

From the Guerlain website:

Jean-Paul Guerlain created Nuit d’Amour as a tribute to Gustav Klimt and one of his works of art: “Lady with Hat and Feather Boa.” This floral, powdery and woody fragrance recalls the stirring emotion that might strike when you encounter an unknown woman with indefinable charm.

Powdery and Woody Floral.
Sweet, moving, feminine.
Top notes: lychee, pink pepper.
Heart notes: May rose, violet.
Base notes: sandalwood, white musks, iris.

Lady With Hat and Feather Boa – Gustav Klimt (1909)

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   I can’t argue with Jean-Paul Guerlain’s inspiration of Gustav Klimt’s “Lady with Hat and Feather Boa.”

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE NUIT D’AMOUR:  reserved, refined, soft

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NUIT D’AMOUR:  Bois de Jasmin, Australian Perfume Junkies

BOTTOM LINE:  I so much want to love this perfume.  It’s soft, it’s pretty, but there’s just not enough of it.  It’s much too restrained to command any affection from me.  That said, it’s really nice…just really nice and that’s a shame.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Floral
  • Nose:  Jean Paul Guerlain
  • Classification:  Feminine
  • Expense:  125 ml Eau de Parfum.  Exclusively at Guerlain Boutiques as part of the Les Parisiennes collection.

 

 


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The Scented Hound’s 2017 Holiday Gift Guide

If you’re like me, you’re always running behind on getting the perfect gifts for your loved ones.  This year is no exception.  But thanks to online shopping, ordering your gifts late doesn’t mean that you have to worry about your presents arriving after Christmas.  So now that I have my list together, let’s help the overworked Santa and get some shopping done!

GUERLAIN MITSOUKO EXTRACT

Dear Santa, if you’re listening, there’s only one thing that I want for Christmas and that’s a new bottle of Mitsouko Extract. Since 1919, this enigmatic perfume has been weaving her spell on all who wear her. As much as I love the eau de toilette version, the extract is everything that is perfume is meant to be.  Be aware that this version is hard to find online, so you need to call your closest Guerlain boutique to place an order. But for those in the UK, you can purchase this spellbinding perfume via Escentual for 2o4 pounds. Santa, I promise that I’ve been a good boy this year!

JONATHAN ADLER JACQUES TRAY

Perfumistas love to display their most treasured perfumes. So for those who are not quite sure what perfume to buy for a loved one, you can’t go wrong with purchasing a luxurious tray for holding one’s perfumed gems.  Jonathan Adler has some new gorgeous lucite trays, which are pretty, but better yet, whose design won’t distract from your most loved possessions. The luxurious Jacques Tray comes in both a small and large size and is available in either brass or smoke accents. Prices start at $395.

MOTTAHEDEH BLUE CANTON FU DOG CANDLE

I love Mottahedeh Blue Canton china. Add a Fu Dog and a candle, and I’m completely sold.  This beautiful candle is scented with the fragrance, Air de Bergamia, a citrus-fresh fragrance that blends lemon and orange with bergamot, tea, raspberry and peach.  This elegant candle would look good in any room in your house. You can find this treasure at Gump’s online or in store in San Francisco. And if you’re not familiar with Gump’s, you’ll find that this is one of a kind department store with unique items that you won’t find anywhere else. Priced at $375.

PUREDISTANCE DISCOVERY BOX

I make no bones about the fact that Puredistance is my favorite perfume house. There is no perfume in the collection that I do not like, but I will admit that White is my favorite perfume in their line and one of my top 3 favorites perfumes overall.  If you’ve never experienced Puredistance perfumes, they are crafted luxury of the utmost quality.  And since their’ perfumes are extracts, a little spritz goes a long way, plus they last throughout the day. The best way to discover what your favorite is to sample the range, which includes a 1.5 ml sample of White as well as 6 other beauties. And all this for 59 Euros. I know that once you have experienced these incredible perfumes at least one will end up in your collection.  Please check out their website for other amazing special holiday gifts.

TRAVALO PERFUME ATOMIZERS

If you’re a perfumista, no doubt you have purchased a Travalo atomizer at some point. These handy travel accessories make taking your perfume on the road easy as pie. Plus they’re really nice looking and pretty reasonable in terms of cost.  But if you’re looking for the ultimate in atomizer luxury, they also offer silver and gold options covered in Swaravoski crystals.  What better way to treat your favorite perfume by casing it in the ultimate bling.   OK, so it’s a little pricey at $399, but isn’t your perfume worth it?  If that’s all too much, then remember that they have other atomizers starting at $9.50.

CAR SCENT DIFFUSER

We love to smell nice.  Why can’t our car smell nice too?  If you’re like me, the thought of hanging a deodorized evergreen tree on your rear view mirror is one that I can’t fathom.  But there are options to the old school way of perking up your car’s inner presence.  The diffuser from Duke may just be what you’re looking for.  This fun little gadget allows you to plug in to your cigarette lighter holder or the USB connector.  The product comes with essential oil, but if you’re like me, I would put a few drops of my favorite scented oil to make sure that my car smelled just the way I want it to.  And it’s at a great price of  $32 at Abode New York.

“GOT PERFUME?” T-SHIRT

I love this funny perfume skunk t-shirt.  This fun gift is a win for those who love perfume and for those who hate it (how is that possible?).  And it’s a deal for under $20.

YANKEE CANDLE COMPANY PERSONALIZED PICTURE CANDLES

I will have to admit that I struggle with Yankee Candle Company.  I can’t bear to go into their stores because the smell is overwhelming with too many different odors colliding in a fury at once.  Given that however, I do love this idea of being able to create your own customized picture candle.  It’s easy, just choose the size of your candle, pick the scent and then upload your photo to create your label.  In the end, it’s a unique, one of a kind gift that no one else will have.  Actually, I would love to see a candle with my two kitties on the front.  I wonder if they have tuna fish as one of their scents??  Prices vary based on the size of the candle chosen.

PARAFILM

Parafilm is the perfect stocking stuffer for any perfume lover.  So you ask, why would laboratory film be the perfect gift?  Parafilm, a sealing film, is the best way to ensure that your sample swaps and perfume bottle moves are protected from leaking.  I recently packed up my perfume collection for a move and I only found one out of about 100 bottles that suffered any leakage; and that was due to my sloppy application of the tape.  Now Parafilm can be expensive, but I found that you can find small amounts online via eBay for a low cost.  A little goes a long way so you don’t need much.  Trust me, you want to use this stuff!

RENAISSANCE KITTY PILLOW COVER 

Of course my holiday shopping list would not be complete without a gift from the irreverent Archie McPhee.  This year my pic for an inexpensive love is the Renaissance Kitty Pillow Cover.  This fun gift would be perfect for the cat lover in your life…or for those that frequent the Renaissance Fair each year.  At $11.95, it’s a great bargain.  But if the kitty pillow is not your thing, Archie McPhee offers a plethora of other fun, wild and strange offerings…most at an incredible price.  Archie McPhee is the place to go for the perfect stocking stuffer.

Of course, not all your holiday shopping needs will be met with this list.  But I hope a few of these items may find themselves under the Christmas tree, either for you or your loved one.

Happy Holidays from The Scented Hound.