The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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New Release: Le Joker – Art de Parfum

WHAT I SMELL:   Le Joker takes an immediate dive off the perfumed platform with an explosive charge of pepper and spice which quickly sours into a menacing bite.  Before you can absorb the surprise of the perfume hitting the skin, a rush of leather enters the mix along with a moistened earthy black dirt accord that evens out the biting edge that came on so quickly.  Here, the perfume reminds me of a well worn leather jacket encased in many years and memories of sweat, cigarettes and the sights and smells of the city.  As Le Joker continues to develop, as weird as it sounds, the perfume reminds me of textured flannel sheets that carry a few nights of warmed wear; which I find rather comforting.  In the end, Le Joker’s rough and tumble attributes merge into a salty woody amber accord.  There is no doubt, Le Joker takes the wearer on one wild ride.

From the Art de Parfum website:

Le Joker aims to awaken different emotions in different people; inviting the wearer to be more daring, more evocative, and not afraid to make a statement or challenge the status quo.

This idea has been expertly shaped by Art de Parfum’s French perfumiers in this stand out perfume with its unusual, unexpected pairings, and intriguing ingredients which play with contrasts; light and shadow, moody, mysterious, dangerous.

Le Joker is a fascinating woody fragrance, intertwining fruity spicy notes with powdery notes of make up, smoky cigarette facets and salty ambergris. 

The overall character of the scent plays with contradictions yet creates a magnificent whole. Playful yet dark, the use of sparkling Timur pepper, which is still rare in perfumery, shines in this creation revealing spicy and tropical accents. The Timur offers a sparkling lemony effect on the top with nuances of passion fruit.

Top Notes: Pink Pepper, Timur Pepper, Elemi

Heart Notes: Star Anise, Nutmeg

Base Notes: Atlas Cedarwood, Cypriol, Patchouli

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The infamous ‘Joker” fits the perfume’s narrative to a T.  However, to me, the perfume tells the story of the New York City subway of the 1970s:  dirty and dangerous while at the same time exciting and exhilarating.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE LE JOKER:  complicated, menacing, intriguing

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LE JOKERThe Plum Girl, I Scent you a Day

BOTTOM LINE:  Le Joker is not a perfume that is meant to be worn at the office.  It is however, a perfume that evokes the wildly chaotic planet we currently live in and is perfect for wearing when you just want to take on the world.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Spicy
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $150 for 50 ml parfum extrait

*Sample provided by Art de Parfum.  Opinion my own.


4 Comments

Puredistance Gold

WHAT I SMELL:   Gold opens with a rush of soft herbed and spiced bergamot that instantly fuses with the warmth of your skin.  The smooth warm opening makes for the most welcoming invitation of what’s to come as from the first spritz, Gold feels as if the perfume is made just for the wearer, and the wearer alone.  As the perfume settles in, Gold begins to flatten and the bergamot and herbs make way for the lightest of labdanum and jasmine bringing the flattened transition to the more rounded.  Here the perfume is pulsing and hypnotic.  After quite some time, Gold begins to dry and the desert begins to emerge from the perfume.  At this point, Gold feels as if the scent is wafting over the ancient dunes and mysterious spices have joined the winds from far away lands.  Gold is a gift from the most ancient of kings.

From the Puredistance website:

A rich and harmonious fusion of gold tones.

Top Notes:  Green Mandarine Essence – Italy, Bergamot Essence – Calabria, Pink peppercorn Essence – Reunion Island,
Rosemary Essence – Morocco, Clove buds Essence – Madagascar

Middle Notes:  Jasmin Absolute – India, Ciste Absolute – Spain, Geranium Essence – Morocco,
Cinnamon Bark Absolute – Madagascar

Base Notes:  Styrax Essence – Honduras, Benzoin Resinoide – Laos, Myrrhe Resinoide, Patchouli Essence – Indonesia,
Vanilla Green Beans – Madagascar, Tonka Beans Absolute – Venezuela, Castoreum Absolute,
Vetiver Essence – Haiti.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The Saharan sands travelling west over the Atlantic bringing the beautiful sunsets to the Americas.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE GOLD:  intimate, exotic, hypnotic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GOLDCaFleureBon, Chemist in the Bottle, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  As with all of their creations, Puredistance uses the the finest materials and Gold is no exception with its’ 36% perfume oil.  And again, Jan Ewoud Vos and Antoine Lie never disappoint with their majestic collaborations as Gold is an exotic beauty that seems to meld with your DNA for the most intimate of wear.  

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Spicy
  • Nose:   Antoine Lie
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: 295 Euros for 60 ml parfum extrait

 


3 Comments

Mendittorosa Rituale

WHAT I SMELL:   Rituale’s opening is warm and slightly smoky and quickly met with a spicy buzzing bergamot.  A warmed lavender soon arrives layered on top of a light brown sugar note.  The perfume is ardently inviting and seems to beckon you into a spell.  The beguiling opening moves to the more serious where deep and mysterious florals slowly pulsate at a level that hugs the skin.  Now that the spell has been cast, the perfume feels as if it has melded not just to the skin, but down to your soul.  As the perfume continues to quietly develop, a warm and rich amber is coated with a honeyed beeswax along with the most subdued, yet slightly sweet patchouli.  Rituale is not a perfume that will make a larger than life statement for the wearer, instead, it’s a quiet, subtle and hypnotic perfume that will draws others to you with it’s magic.

From the Mendittorosa website:

Rituals from ancient cultures; myths, symbols and religions in one perfume. Rituale is illuminated by a nectarous narcissus, a golden distillation of time like an everlasting sunrise. Blessing and prayer, a soothing balsam for skin, Rituale is your personal temple. Perfumes normally come and go with the wind but Rituale likes to linger and bless your day, creating a ritual especially for you.

Head Notes: Italian Bergamot, Mandarin Aldehyde, Lavender.
Heart Notes: Jasmin, Narcissus, Rose, Red Fruits (Blackcurrant, Raspberry, Pomegranate).
Base Notes: Patchouli, Sandwalwood, Beeswax, Amber Woods, White Musk, Hyraceum (Golden Stone).

Ingrid Bergman. Alfred Hitchcock Spellbound, 1945.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Spellbound.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE RITUALE:  haunting, personal, contemplative

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RITUALEThe Silver Fox, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  I have been waiting to wear this beauty for some time as I knew it would not work well in the heat of Mexico.  Now that the weather has finally cooled, I was able to experience this quiet, yet provocative perfume.  It’s true, good things come to those who wait.  Oh, and that bottle!

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose:  Amelie Bourgeois
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $230 for 100 ml parfum extrait

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.