The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Vintage Habanita by Molinard

habanita1WHAT I SMELL:  Habanita has a dramatic opening that is glowingly sweetened, with a blast of fruit followed quickly by a warming floral mix that is highlighted by lilac and rose.  The perfume is so deliciously inviting as it seems to envelops the wearer.  Habanita has a sweet edge to it, but it’s not a perfume that I would categorize as sweet.  Maybe because as it develops the dryness of the oakmoss, the fresh tobacco and sheen of leather tone down the higher pitched notes.  As the perfume settles down, the various notes even out creating this incredible balance between the spice, florals and woody notes.  Habanita is sexy without being dangerous, but it draws you in making you want more.

From the Molinard website:

1921 – Habanita was born in the exuberance of the Roaring Twenties. With trailblazing spirit, Molinard revolutionized perfume codes, creating the first women’s Oriental fragrance featuring vetiver, an essence hitherto reserved for men. From perfume extract to the essence of the femme fatale, Habanita’s innovative style was eagerly embraced by the garçonnes-  France’s flappers – and soon became Molinard’s runaway success and an icon in the history of French perfume.

Top notes are orange blossom, raspberry, peach and bergamot; middle notes are lilac, orris root, jasmine, heliotrope, ylang-ylang and rose; base notes are leather, amber, musk, benzoin, vanilla, oakmoss and cedar.

cyd168WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Cyd Charisse

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE HABANITA:  whirling, energetic, dynamic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT HABANITA:  Fragrance Daily, Yesterday’s Perfume, Grain de Musc

BOTTOM LINE:  Habanita is one of a kind.  It’s the kind of perfume that I crave.  Unique, beautiful, radiant…I can’t imagine not owning a bottle.

  • Bone Rating:  5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental
  • Classification: To me this is perfectly unisex
  • Expense: Review based on the vintage parfum extrait version.  Prices vary on eBay, etc.


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Raw Secret by Phuong Dang Perfumes

raw-secretWHAT I SMELL:  Raw Secret opens with a wave of muted aldehydes which are quickly met with a light tea surrounded by a leveled and flattened mandarin.  After a few minutes, the perfume begins to project with the tea at the center.  The tea is warmed, rounded and thickened in a chewy and slightly rubbery consistency.  The perfume is absolutely dreamy and it feels like a lullaby that is rocking you softly and gently leaving you in an envelopment of content.  As the perfume continues to develop, the tea moves more towards a dried lily of the valley.  It’s incredibly soft and green without being dewy.   Here, the lily blooms alongside a bed of delicate white flowers which feel like a floating embrace above a woodied amber radiating base.  The perfume then starts to dry and lightly powder…and the gleaming flowers are magnificent in a way that makes me want to wrap the entire perfume around me.  In the end, Raw Secret grows in projection to become a beautifully powdered floral hug warmed by amber that’s oh so comforting.

From the Phuong Dang website:

“You reach out to touch me. Linger… I smile because I am happy. Feel so safe in your warm embrace… I just want to hold on, so tightly. Please get closer, to know me… I am only me. And yet with you, I am so much stronger.” —Phuong Dang

Raw Secret Notes – 

Top: Aldehydes, Bergamot, Mandarin, Red Pepper, Tea Leaves, Ginger

Heart: Jasmine Absolute, Lily of the Valley, Imaginary White Flowers

Base: Amber, Sandalwood

loveWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  love

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE RAW SECRET:  incandescent, embracing, at peace

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RAW SECRET:  None to be found.

BOTTOM LINE:  Brand creator and namesake, Phuong Dang has launched a debut collection of ten perfumes, primarily created with perfumer Bertrand Duchafour.  Raw Secret is the only perfume that steps outside the Duchafour collaboration and was created by perfumer Marina Jung Allegret… and it’s one of my favorite in the line.  In all, the entire collection is comprised of extraits which are incredibly smooth, refined and easy to wear.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent Floral Citrus
  • Nose: Maria Jung Allegret
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $450 for 100 ml parfum extrait.  Available exclusively at Barneys.


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New Release: Puredistance Sheiduna

puredistance-07-sheiduna-perfume-01b-hr

WHAT I SMELL: Welcome to the bazaar…Sheiduna’s opening is full of light and glistening peppery citrus and fruits that feel as if they were dried on top of a warm, sun-kissed sand.  The perfume is dry, but it has an undertone of a rounded vetiver that sails along the top of an ambered plane tinged with the most beautiful incense.    The dried fruits, along with the spice and the warmed florals feel like an invitation to an exotic table set in a tent in the middle of the desert welcoming guests in from a long, hot journey.  As the perfume develops, the citrus and fruit begin to make way for a more linear vanilla infused base.  The perfume feels very stratified with hidden layers of amber, vetiver, vanilla and myrrh…each feeling separate from each other, but each riding along this magic carpet that glides so effortlessly above the warmed sand dunes which are now becoming cooler as the hot daytime sun is beginning to set.  The sweetened patchouli and vanilla really come to the forefront as the perfume cools and becomes more comforting and cocooning.  Sheiduna never forces herself on you, but carries you along with mystical enchantment.

From the Puredistance website:

SHEIDUNA is a rich and intense Perfume inspired by the panoramic views and feel of golden sand dunes in the desert during sunset – soft, female curves changing from deep gold to warm, orangey red – embodying a promise of sensual comfort and silent seduction.

Wearing SHEIDUNA, one wafts sensuality, and intense colour waves of Persian rugs touch the senses. The perfect marriage between Sensuality and Style.

Sheiduna notes:  Lemon, tangerine, blackcurrant, aldehydes, Bulgarian rose essence, geranium, clove, vetyver, patchouly, amber woody, incense, benzoin, myrrh, tonka bean, vanilla pods and musks.

valentino-the-sheik

Rudolph Valentino as The Sheik

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Rudolph Valentino as The Sheik…mysterious, seductive and so very smooth.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SHEIDUNA:  tempting, mysterious, alluring

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SHEIDUNA: Bonkers About Perfume, Parfuminstans blogg, Suzanne’s Perfume Journal

BOTTOM LINE:  Sheiduna in all of its oriential splendor is a wonderful departure for Puredistance who has some of the most exquisite florals in their line.  Sheiduna is the perfect antidote for the pending cooler months as its desert warmth will keep you surrounded by its exotic and comforting mysticism.

  • promotionBone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent Oriental Spicy
  • Nose: Cécile Zarokian
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: 175 Euros for 17.5 ml parfum extrait from the Puredistance website.  60 and 100 ml sizes are also available.  And through November 30th, if you purchase a 17.5 ml bottle of Sheiduna you’ll also receive a 5 ml refillable travel spray as well!

DRAW:  Puredistance is offering 3 readers of The Scented Hound a 2 ml sample of this exquisite oriental parfum extrait.  The draw is open to all parties around the globe.  All you have to do to enter is to:

  1. Leave a comment below why you are excited to experience Sheiduna or what your favorite Puredistance perfume is, and
  2. Be a current or new subscriber to the The Scented Hound, and
  3. “Like” the Puredistance Facebook page

The draw is open until midnight, November 3, 2016, EST.  Winners will be chosen via random.org and will be announced on this website.

Sample of Sheiduna provided by Puredistance.  Opinions my own.