The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Tom Ford Ébène Fumé

WHAT I SMELL: Ébène Fumé opens with a soft woody smokiness tinged with labdanum and leather.  It’s calming, serene and wonderfully subtle. As the perfume develops, the incense loses a bit of its sharpness and a smooth and slightly creamy cistus enters.  At this point, the perfume feels like a sheath of light leather is embracing your skin.  Hints of florals help to make the creation more rounded which helps to keep it from becoming too smoky.  Beyond that, the perfume doesn’t develop much except for the addition of a lightly sweetened guaiac woody note.  Ébène Fumé isn’t a game changing perfume, but it’s perfect for those times when you are looking for quiet reflection.

From the Tom Ford website:

ÉBÈNE FUMÉ MERGES THE PURIFYING ESSENCE OF PALO SANTO WITH NOTES OF SEDUCTIVE EBONY WOOD, AROUSING EXQUISITE CALM AND HEIGHTENED SPIRITUAL LUXURY.

ÉBÈNE FUMÉ CONJURES TRANSCENDENT SPIRITUAL CALM THROUGH THE MYSTICAL ESSENCE OF PALO SANTO SMOKE – STOKED BY THE WARM ELEGANCE OF CISTUS ABSOLUTE, ROSES, AND SEDUCTIVE NOTES OF EBONY WOOD, CAPTURED IN SLEEK, SUBLIME NOTES OF LEATHER.

Top notes are Incense, Palo Santo, Black Pepper and Violet Leaf; middle notes are Leather, Labdanum, Cade oil, Papyrus and Rose; base notes are resins, ebony tree and Guaiac Wood.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Old leather bound books which have been stored in a church rectory for hundreds of years.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ÉBÈNE FUMÉ:  serene, calming, contented

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ÉBÈNE FUMÉ:  CaFleureBon, Temptalia

BOTTOM LINE:  It is Memorial Day today in the United States.  A day that is for remembering and honoring those who have served the country since its inception.  I thought that this calming perfume would be the perfect scent to pay tribute to those who came before us and to pray for peace around the world during these trying times.  No, perfume can’t create world peace, but if anything, it can help to soothe our souls.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Amber Woody
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $270 for 50ml eau de parfum


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Fleur Japonais by Shalini

WHAT I SMELL:   Fleur Japonais opens with a soft milky magnolia that is quickly greeted by lilting cherry blossoms that are seemingly caressed by a light breeze.  The perfume is intoxicating in that it’s full of body, yet light in presence.  But there’s also a hidden strength in the blossoms in that their beauty is full of passion and power with the promise of rebirth.  As the perfume develops, the soft and beautiful florals even out in consistency creating for a blanket that’s silky smooth.  And along with that beautiful blanket is just the right amount of light incense that dreamily floats above the blossoms.  Here, Fleur Japonais feels as if it is creating a passage to an ancient Japanese temple.  In the end, a light powder with the incense and a soft sandalwood residing underneath, makes you feel as if you’re walking along a quiet path laden with freshly fallen pedals; pink above and pink below.  Beyond gorgeous.

From Shalini Parfum:

Fleur Japonais is inspired by the revered Cherry blossoms of Japan. The “Sakura” season is a celebration of life as the pink flowers embrace the temples of Kyoto.

The parfum is a heavenly composition of ephemeral Cherry blossoms, intoxicating Magnolia flowers, Frankincense, Labdanum and Sandalwood.

Fleur Japonais reaches for the heavens as the pink flowers merge with the ethereal smoke from the woods and resins.

In Japanese culture there is an association between the Sakura and the Samurai – the flower and the man. They are both admired for their fleeting beautiful lives. It is believed that the soul of the Samurai lives in the Sakura.

Clouds of pink caressing your face. The delicate fragrance of Cherry blossoms scents the air. The temple bells chime softly as the soft scent of the fragrance floats like pink petals caressing the earth.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Dreaming in a sea of pink.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE FLEUR JAPONAIS:  soft, serene, spiritual

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT FLEUR JAPONAIS:  Colognoisseur, The Plum Girl

BOTTOM LINE:  Simply put, Fleur Japonais isn’t a perfume that is mean to shock, surprise or jolt you with twists and turns.  Instead, it’s quiet beauty just takes you in without force and leads you softly to the most sacred of place within your soul.

  • Bone Rating: 5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Maurice Roucel
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Cubique glass bottle with the glass stopper $500 for 50 ml, Cubique glass bottle with black bulb atomizer $500 for 50 ml,  Small spray bottle $150 for 7.5 ml.  Byzantine glass flacon $1,100 for 100 ml.  White Lacquer and Gold Plated Travel Spray, $415 for 12.5 ml.  All parfum extrait.


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Zoologist Snowy Owl

WHAT I SMELL:  Snowy Owl opens with bright reflective aldehydic snow and the smell of freshly turned earth.  Quickly, it begins to move to the cool and fresh along with a cottony finish that feels light and fluffy.  There’s a wonderfully light herbal hint of mint, but its portrayal is much more attuned to the smell of warmed faux fur that lines the inside of worn leather gloves.  As the perfume continues to develop, light and soft florals seem to pop out from the snow and once again the smell of moist earth begins to emerge as if the frozen ground has melted to reveal some hints of spring.  The perfume at this point is soft and inviting and quite powdery and it feels as if it has been lightly applied to the skin with the softest makeup brush.  As Snowy Owl continues to develop, it begins to strengthen just a bit and the light florals make way for a radiating amber tinged woodiness.  In the end, the perfume feels as if it is full of contained energy that’s held secure within a cocooned wrap of musk.

From the Zoologist Perfumes website:

A thick carpet of silver envelops the landscape, untouched but for the dazzling reflection of the sun. Snow stretches as far as the eye can see, while a bitter wind rolls silently across the sky, its hush barely broken by the powerful beat of an ivory wing. Despite the stillness of the arctic, the snowy owl senses a flutter beneath the icy crust far below. Through snowy tunnels voles scamper, oblivious to their fate. A warm glow stirs within the breast of the majestic bird as it dives, confident in its mastery over the frigid kingdom.

Zoologist Snowy Owl glides on with a minty opening, while the gentle warmth of musk combines with beautiful hints of snowdrops, lily of the valley and iris. Sweet coconut and woody vanilla swoop in to surprise and entice. Snowy Owl merges cool vitality with exquisite softness in a captivating scent, ideal for those who aren’t afraid to take what they desire.

Top Notes: Snow Accord, Lily of the Valley, Mint, Coconut
Heart Notes: Iris, Snowdrop, White Rose, Mate, Frankincense, Galbanum
Base Notes: Ambrette, Cedar, Civet, Musk, Oakmoss, Tonka, Vanilla

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  I can’t argue with the fact that this perfume captures the spirit of the snowy owl and it’s winter environment.  But what I can add is that it’s a very well dressed snowy owl at that.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SNOWY OWL:  soft, enticing, engaging

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SNOWY OWL:  Now Smell This, The Sniff, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  The first half of the development of Snowy Owl is wonderfully delightful and you can feel the cool air of the snowy landscape swirl around you as you wear it.  I just wish it would have remained in the soft and pretty for a greater amount of time.  Maybe like snow, all it requires is an occasional dusting to keep it in the “pretty” realm?

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Dawn Spencer Hurwitz
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $165 for 60 ml parfum extrait.  Also available in 10 ml travel spray.