The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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New Release: Zoologist Chameleon

WHAT I SMELL:  Chameleon unfolds on first spritz all soft and warm with delicious, bergamot, edible fruits and ylang ylang.  Surprisingly it’s not too juicy or really sweet…instead it’s just so very inviting.  In fact, it feels as if you’re walking down the street and you catch a whiff of a fragrant tree whose rapturous scent grabs your attention with its intoxicating spell.  After a short while, the perfume delivers a creamy accord of frangipani that really begins to radiate off the skin.  Underneath it floats a layer of sandalwood in the same vein of Guerlain’s Samsara (and that’s a good thing).  After some more time, a light chalkiness enters which soon begins to powder slightly after which the creaminess returns which a small dose of sweet.  The perfume then quiets to the perfect stage of just the right amount of creamy, sweet and floral.  Chameleon is everything tropical, but instead of overpowering the wearer with heavy handed florals, instead you seem to float in sun drenched flowers dancing in a sun-kissed breeze.

From the Zoologist Perfumes website:

Madagascar, home to half of the world’s species of chameleons, holds the key to Zoologist Chameleon. Like the kaleidoscope of hues that swirl within the flesh of these exotic creatures, ylang dances with delicate frangipani upon your skin in a melody of creamy florals, while aphrodisiac vanilla blends with salty, silky musks to envelop you in the fruity, exotic atmosphere of the island. Whether you desire to shroud yourself in an air of mystery, or blatantly flaunt your true colours, Chameleon becomes you.

Top Notes:  Bergamot, Lemon, Madagascar Ylang Ylang, Mango, Pink Pepper, Star Fruit, Violet Leaves
Heart Notes:  Cashmeran, Clove, Coconut, Frangipani, Jasmine, Saffron, Salty Skin Accord, Sea Breeze
Base Notes:  Amber, Woods, Musks, Opoponax, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   Vintage tropical florals.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHAMELEON:  colorful, calming, sunny

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHAMELEON:  Ventvenir, Colognoisseur, Nose Dives

BOTTOM LINE:  This is my kind of tropical perfume.  It all about being “not too.”  That means it’s balanced perfectly and it’s perfectly modern with a vintage bend.  Chameleon is summer fun….but of course, “not too” much fun!

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Nose:  Daniel Pescio
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $145 for 60 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.

 


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Grossmith Diamond Jubilee Bouquet

WHAT I SMELL:  Diamond Jubilee Bouquet opens with a sweet and chalky zesty citrus along with a SweeTART candy smell.  But that sweetened sensation begins to disappear quickly on it’s way to open up for a warm and rapturous bouquet of flowers highlighted with a slightly metallic rose.  After a few minutes, a tender and powdery violet pops out of the bouquet to give a perception of innocence.  And soon thereafter, the bouquet begins to really bloom with a mix of warmth and coolness making the perfume a controlled beauty; majestic and pretty without being ostentatious or off-putting.  After some more time, a light spice brings in a more serious tone while continuing with it’s overall restraint.  In the end, Diamond Jubilee Bouquet quietly powders with the lightest of sweetness.  It’s very secure in its quiet and muted beauty.

From the Grossmith website:

Grossmith’s tribute to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II is a floral tapestry for the twenty-first century.

Top Notes:  Orange, Lemon, Lily of the Valley, Narcissus

Heart Notes:  Rose, Iris, Jasmine, Violet, Vetiver, Carnation

Base Notes:  Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Hawthorn, Amber, Musk

Queen Elizabeth II

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A fitting tribute to Queen Elizabeth II.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE DIAMOND JUBILEE BOUQUET:  pretty, controlled, contained

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DIAMOND JUBILEE BOUQUET:  Undina’s Looking Glass

BOTTOM LINE:  I really want to love this perfume.   Instead, I just really, really like it.  It’s pretty, but the controlled nature and rather light projection makes it feel best suited to wear with a plain white blouse.  To wear with anything else the perfume would need to be amped up just a tad bit more.  I do think it would make for a perfect bedtime scent though.  It’s powdery floral sweetness would assist in making some wonderfully beautiful dreams.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose:  Trevor Nicholl
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense:  Approximately $310 for 50 ml eau de parfum.  Also available in 100 ml.  Limited edition.


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Focus on Mexico: Sandovalis Perfumes and Cicle Club Review

Before leaving the US in 2017 for Mexico, it was clear that there was an entrepreneurial groundswell happening with small start-up companies, stores and restaurants happening throughout the country.  It was exciting to see craftmanship return to the marketplace with people who had the love and spirit to make and provide new and unique products and services.  Here in Mexico, the same is happening, especially with the younger generation.  And because of it, many are bringing a new twist to the traditional in a very exciting way.

One of these entrepreneurs lives right here in Merida; Jose Sandovalis of Sandovalis Perfumes.  As a self-taught perfumer, Jose has used his love of perfume, botany and the Yucatan to create a line of perfumes, candles and personal grooming products that are rooted in the local environment.  Jose cites that his interest in perfume began with his grandmother who had a book of perfumes from the late 19th century.  But it wasn’t just his grandmother that helped to influence this interest; his father and grandfather helped to educate and mentor with a shared passion for botany.  Now, together with his wife Cindy, they have handcrafted a collection of unique products that are tied to the history and botanicals of the Yucatan.  And they source their materials throughout the peninsula with a concentration on fair trade.  To Jose, sustaining and supporting the local people is key to his mission.   Sorry to say however, that these products are only available in Mexico.  So if you need a good excuse to come experience this wonderful country, this is one good reason to do so

WHAT I SMELL:   Cicle Club first spins off of the skin with a fresh and tangy lightly sugared tangerine.  The pefume sparkles with a bright energy.  After a couple of minutes, the cheery opening starts to retreat, leaving the wearer wondering if the perfume is about to disappear after a quick hello.    But as expected, the perfume begins to reveal a more herbal heart with hints of dewy wood.   The light sugared sweetness is still there, but it has retreated in such a manner giving it a quiet and understated level of positivity.  After some time, a tobacco note starts to swirl and rise through the center of the perfume.  It’s projection is just right as it feels a bit windswept off of the skin.

Head notes:  Tangerine and Rosemary

Heart notes:  Good grass and Basil

Background notes:  Cedar and Tobacco

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A quiet early evening bike ride underneath Merida’s Arcos de Dragones.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CICLE CLUB:  understated, classic, comfortable

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CICLE CLUB:  None found.

BOTTOM LINE:  Cicle Club is clearly a gentlemen, but one with a sporty heart.  It’s herbal and woody tobacco freshness is perfect in the heat of the summer and for any time of year.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Aromatic Woody
  • Nose:  Jose Sandovalis
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: Approximately $50 for 60 ml eau de parfum.  Also available in 30 ml.

For more information, please check out the wonderfully historical Sandovalis Perfumes website (in Spanish – easy to translate using Google Chrome).