The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


13 Comments

Russkaya Kozha by Berdoues

WHAT I SMELL:  Russkaya Kozha has a discordant and biting opening that quickly moves to a flattened wood tinged with leather and oud.  There’s a sour edge and a pungent aspect, like worn leather pants that have absorbed the dirt and sweat from the wearer.  The perfume is beefy without being weighted, but it does have presence.  After a few minutes, the funky opening starts to sweeten and a wonderful radiating amber and benzoin ride above the now rough hewed sueded leather.  There’s a slight booziness that meets the mix and what was a bit rough and tumble at the beginning is now confidently sophisticated.  It also seems like there may be a light rose note buried under the leather, but I’m not seeing that listed as one of the notes.  The perfume settles down into a warmed smoky leather that is masculine without being overt but is still clearly in charge.  Instead, it projects confidence in a wonderful grandeur that is born from the majestic heart of Mother Russia.

From the Berdoues website:

An elegant leather perfume.

All the sophistication of Russia captured in a glass bottle. A blend of the noblest raw materials, Russkaya Kozha develops into an intense, mysterious perfume through the combination of Cade wood from Spain, Siam Benzoin from Malaysia and Cardamom from Guatemala.

Russkaya Kozha is a leathery, amber perfume that bares eternal Russia’s soul through the blend of Cade wood and an elegant accord of Benzoin from Malaysia and Cardamom from Guatemala.  An elegant and sophisticated Grand Cru.

Prince Alexander Konstantinovich Gorchakov

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A perfume fit for a Russian Prince.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE RUSSKAYA KOZHA:  secure, cultivated, resolute

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RUSSKAYA KOZHA:  Colognoisseur, The Perfume Expert

BOTTOM LINE:  Russkaya Kozha is a lovely leather perfume that feels refined, yet still embodies the rough edges that come with the harsh environments of the Russian landscape.  This is a really nice leather perfume that doesn’t overwhelm the wearer and as a cologne, this has incredible lasting power.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Leather
  • Nose: Flavien Laurandeau
  • Classification: Leans masculine, but easily unisex
  • Expense: $80 for 100 ml eau de cologne


6 Comments

La Manufacture Cologne Rare

La_manufacture_Cologne_rare

WHAT I SMELL:  Cologne Rare initially shines with a fresh citrus and bright bergamot opening.  But there’s a little surprise with the addition of a lightly herbal and sharpened green note. In all it’s like a sun filled herbal garden surrounded by several lemon and lime trees.  The freshness and sparkle from the opening starts to warm on the skin and there’s a light sugared tartness that adds just the modern uniqueness to this rather traditional scent.  As the cologne continues to develop, a sweetened patchouli that feels topped with lavender, pulsates off the skin.  In a short while, the patchouli becomes the centerpiece, but the woodiness of the note seems to be wrapped around a citrus tinged vetiver.  And just when you thought the perfume had found its resting place, it instead continues to deepen like a golden elixir.  This is one nice cologne.

From the La Manufacture website:

A breath of bergamot and basil

Under the intense sun, one seeks out the scarce shade beneath the dungeon’s stone vault. You can sprinkle yourself with a spirited freshness.

Bergamot collides with basil, peel meets leaf. Notes full of character cross steel in an exchange of green… The green tartness of rhubarb yields to the somber green of patchouli and vetiver, giving rise to full-bodied base notes. A breath of coolness lingers, weaving among heightened wood notes.

“I chose bergamot from Italy for its lavender and pepper undertones. The basil from Egypt, with its singular anise note, makes the transition from citrus to green heart. The green is darkened by a smoky-leather note specific to vetiver from Haiti.

Carla Chabert, perfumer

Italy - Berengo Gardin (7)WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A stroll through the sun warmed Italian countryside.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE COLOGNE RARE:  comforting, easy, delightful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT COLOGNE RARE:  No additional reviews were found.

BOTTOM LINE: Cologne Rare is the perfect antidote for the heat of the summer.  It’s an uncomplicated, yet modern, version of a classic citrus cologne with a tangy herbal edge.  It’s bright, sunny, easy to wear and it can’t help but put you in a good mood.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Citrus Aromatic
  • Nose: Carla Chabert
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $125 for 100 ml cologne


7 Comments

Etat Libre d’Orange Cologne

Etat-Libre-CologneWHAT I SMELL:  Cologne opens with a clean crisp warmed bergamot and blood orange.  It’s tangy and sparkling without being overly juiced.  An orange blossom soon joins the mix of this nice and easy composition.  Not too sweet and not too sour, the perfume maintains this perfect balance of carefree wear.  After around 10 minutes a musk comes into play.  It’s not too clean and it brings in some added dimension.  However, it does make the fragrance seem more like Febreeze than a perfume.  After another 5 minutes, a sugared element comes forth making the orange blossom more prevalent and it helps to dissipate the musk.  And then a bit later, the jasmine comes in to give the cologne a really nice boost of fresh florals.   In the end, Cologne stays in this easy to wear mode that works at being fresh, without being too fresh.

Composition: Blood orange, orange blossom, bergamot, jasmine, musk, leather…

Welcome to LAWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Welcome to L.A.  The ease of sun and casual living with a hint of a wicked underbelly.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE COLOGNE:  easy, wearable, one-off

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT COLOGNE:  CaFleureBon, Colognoisseur, Perfume-Smellin’ Things

BOTTOM LINE:  I like Cologne but I don’t like it.  How’s that?  I like it because it takes the standard citrus perfume and make it a little bit dirty.  Unfortunately, the musk gets in the way; and it seems to be random.  At times, the musk isn’t present, then all of a sudden it comes charging through.  Take away the musk and you have a winner.

  • Bone Rating: 2.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Spicy
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $149 for 100 ml Eau de Parfum