The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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La Manufacture Cologne Rare

La_manufacture_Cologne_rare

WHAT I SMELL:  Cologne Rare initially shines with a fresh citrus and bright bergamot opening.  But there’s a little surprise with the addition of a lightly herbal and sharpened green note. In all it’s like a sun filled herbal garden surrounded by several lemon and lime trees.  The freshness and sparkle from the opening starts to warm on the skin and there’s a light sugared tartness that adds just the modern uniqueness to this rather traditional scent.  As the cologne continues to develop, a sweetened patchouli that feels topped with lavender, pulsates off the skin.  In a short while, the patchouli becomes the centerpiece, but the woodiness of the note seems to be wrapped around a citrus tinged vetiver.  And just when you thought the perfume had found its resting place, it instead continues to deepen like a golden elixir.  This is one nice cologne.

From the La Manufacture website:

A breath of bergamot and basil

Under the intense sun, one seeks out the scarce shade beneath the dungeon’s stone vault. You can sprinkle yourself with a spirited freshness.

Bergamot collides with basil, peel meets leaf. Notes full of character cross steel in an exchange of green… The green tartness of rhubarb yields to the somber green of patchouli and vetiver, giving rise to full-bodied base notes. A breath of coolness lingers, weaving among heightened wood notes.

“I chose bergamot from Italy for its lavender and pepper undertones. The basil from Egypt, with its singular anise note, makes the transition from citrus to green heart. The green is darkened by a smoky-leather note specific to vetiver from Haiti.

Carla Chabert, perfumer

Italy - Berengo Gardin (7)WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A stroll through the sun warmed Italian countryside.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE COLOGNE RARE:  comforting, easy, delightful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT COLOGNE RARE:  No additional reviews were found.

BOTTOM LINE: Cologne Rare is the perfect antidote for the heat of the summer.  It’s an uncomplicated, yet modern, version of a classic citrus cologne with a tangy herbal edge.  It’s bright, sunny, easy to wear and it can’t help but put you in a good mood.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Citrus Aromatic
  • Nose: Carla Chabert
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $125 for 100 ml cologne


7 Comments

Etat Libre d’Orange Cologne

Etat-Libre-CologneWHAT I SMELL:  Cologne opens with a clean crisp warmed bergamot and blood orange.  It’s tangy and sparkling without being overly juiced.  An orange blossom soon joins the mix of this nice and easy composition.  Not too sweet and not too sour, the perfume maintains this perfect balance of carefree wear.  After around 10 minutes a musk comes into play.  It’s not too clean and it brings in some added dimension.  However, it does make the fragrance seem more like Febreeze than a perfume.  After another 5 minutes, a sugared element comes forth making the orange blossom more prevalent and it helps to dissipate the musk.  And then a bit later, the jasmine comes in to give the cologne a really nice boost of fresh florals.   In the end, Cologne stays in this easy to wear mode that works at being fresh, without being too fresh.

Composition: Blood orange, orange blossom, bergamot, jasmine, musk, leather…

Welcome to LAWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Welcome to L.A.  The ease of sun and casual living with a hint of a wicked underbelly.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE COLOGNE:  easy, wearable, one-off

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT COLOGNE:  CaFleureBon, Colognoisseur, Perfume-Smellin’ Things

BOTTOM LINE:  I like Cologne but I don’t like it.  How’s that?  I like it because it takes the standard citrus perfume and make it a little bit dirty.  Unfortunately, the musk gets in the way; and it seems to be random.  At times, the musk isn’t present, then all of a sudden it comes charging through.  Take away the musk and you have a winner.

  • Bone Rating: 2.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Spicy
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $149 for 100 ml Eau de Parfum


10 Comments

New Release: Eau de Magnolia by Frederic Malle

Eau_de_magnolia

WHAT I SMELL: Eau de Magnolia opens with a lightly fizzy warmed bergamot.  It’s rather sour and green, but that sour aspect retreats after around 10 minutes when the magnolia makes an entrance.  The fragrance at this point is very light and wispy and is sweetened with a breath of patchouli.  All of this seems to be sitting upon a dry woody base that feels like it’s pulling the moisture from the fragrance.  After around 20 minutes the magnolia begins to radiate, but it’s contained and never reveals too much of itself.  It’s also cool and feels rather removed and distant.  After another 20 minutes, the coolness is replaced by some warmth, as if the afternoon begins to filter through the curtains to help lighten and heat up a dark room. In the end you’re left with this light and delicate muted floral that  is infused by a interesting citrus component.

Eau de Magonlia notes from the Frederic Malle website:

Top note is Calabrian bergamot; middle notes are magnolia, vetiver and patchouli; base notes are cedar, moss and amber.

Fading Away, 1858.WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A fading southern beauty.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE EAU DE MAGNOLIA: somber, muted, fragile

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT EAU DE MAGNOLIA: Olfactoria’s Travels, CaFleureBon, Kafkasesque

BOTTOM LINE:  Magnolia can be tricky to recreate; the floral effect can leave a perfume loud, artificial and cloying.  Eau de Magnolia manages to escape that trajectory and instead takes it in a direction that is soft, haunting and full of melancholy.  It’s pretty, but it’s a perfume that leaves me feeling rather sober.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Carlos Benaim
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $175 for 50ml