Berdoues | The Scented Hound

WHAT I SMELL: Russkaya Kozha has a discordant and biting opening that quickly moves to a flattened wood tinged with leather and oud. There’s a sour edge and a pungent aspect, like worn leather pants that have absorbed the dirt and sweat from the wearer. The perfume is beefy without being weighted, but it does have presence. After a few minutes, the funky opening starts to sweeten and a wonderful radiating amber and benzoin ride above the now rough hewed sueded leather. There’s a slight booziness that meets the mix and what was a bit rough and tumble at the beginning is now confidently sophisticated. It also seems like there may be a light rose note buried under the leather, but I’m not seeing that listed as one of the notes. The perfume settles down into a warmed smoky leather that is masculine without being overt but is still clearly in charge. Instead, it projects confidence in a wonderful grandeur that is born from the majestic heart of Mother Russia.

From the Berdoues website:

An elegant leather perfume.

All the sophistication of Russia captured in a glass bottle. A blend of the noblest raw materials, Russkaya Kozha develops into an intense, mysterious perfume through the combination of Cade wood from Spain, Siam Benzoin from Malaysia and Cardamom from Guatemala.

Russkaya Kozha is a leathery, amber perfume that bares eternal Russia’s soul through the blend of Cade wood and an elegant accord of Benzoin from Malaysia and Cardamom from Guatemala. An elegant and sophisticated Grand Cru.

Prince Alexander Konstantinovich Gorchakov

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A perfume fit for a Russian Prince.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE RUSSKAYA KOZHA: secure, cultivated, resolute

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RUSSKAYA KOZHA: Colognoisseur, The Perfume Expert

BOTTOM LINE: Russkaya Kozha is a lovely leather perfume that feels refined, yet still embodies the rough edges that come with the harsh environments of the Russian landscape. This is a really nice leather perfume that doesn’t overwhelm the wearer and as a cologne, this has incredible lasting power.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Leather
Nose: Flavien Laurandeau
Classification: Leans masculine, but easily unisex
Expense: $80 for 100 ml eau de cologne

WHAT I SMELL: Oud Wa Ward jumps out of the bottle with a sweetened patchouli and luscious bold and juicy red rose with a soured and lightly biting oud. There’s a bit of a metallic edge to the perfume, but overall it is what it promises to be… a rose oud perfume…well, maybe add just a hint of incense to the mix. After quite some time, the sweetness begins to dissipate and a lovely understated woodiness takes over making the perfume a bit more grounded. But what used to be bright and free-spirited in the beginning after 30 minutes turns to the more serious and the perfume gets bigger, bolder with the honeyed, smoky and slightly dirty oud now fully in charge. But overall, Oud Wa Ward delivers a nice rose oud and patchouli sweetened fragrance that’s not too heavy, but with just enough sexy and exotic to make this a fun and easy wear.

Fragrance Notes: Patchouli, Turkish Red Rose, Oud

Skateboarding Shia LeBeouf – pic: Just Jared

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A smooth, easy and rather sexy perfume that doesn’t take itself too seriously.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE OUD WA WARD: sweetened wood, kickin, fun

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT OUD WA WARD: None to be found.

BOTTOM LINE: Oud Wa Ward takes you on quite the ride although it doesn’t do it in short sprints; instead it really takes it time. The perfume starts off fun and carefree, but in the end you’re left with something that’s much more serious and a little bit dangerous, but still incredibly beautiful. This is a perfume that begs to be challenged with a cool attitude. Oud Wa Ward is a hip perfume at a reasonable price to boot. What’s not to love?

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Woody Oriental
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $140 for 100 ml eau de parfum