The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Yuzu Fou by Parfum d’Empire

yuzu_fou2WHAT I SMELL:   Yuzu Fou goes on with a rush of citrus which is cool to the touch of the skin.  What starts off as primarily orange, quickly turns almost Lemon Pledge lemony.  Soon after Yuzu Fou brings in the funk, as there is a sweaty cumin like presence that makes its appearance.   There is this odd sensation of fresh lemon and sweaty armpits.  Not soon after, the funk starts to take a back seat to some minty freshness, but every once in a while, the funky sweat still pops up, just to make sure you know it’s still there.  While this interplay is going on, the constant is the fresh orangey-mint which remains at the heart.  In the end, Yuzu Fou is very similar to Parfum d’Empire’s Azemour les Orangers, and that’s not a bad thing.

Yuzu Fou notes from Fragrantica:  Top notes are kumquat, bitter orange, yuzu and mint; middle notes are bamboo, lemon verbena and cedar; base notes are neroli and white musk.

Lancek22

It’s impossible to find a picture of a teenager next to a lemon tree. So instead I posted a picture of Lance Kerwin, star of the horrific 1970s show, “James at 15.” The show was a stinker if there ever was one.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Like a junior high aged boy running around a lemon orchard.  It smells so wonderfully fresh outside, but you can’t help notice that when he starts getting sweaty, he really needs to be wearing deodorant.  Of course, he’s completely clueless, but you know it’s time to have that talk.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE YUZU FOU: fresh, semi-funky, dichotomous

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT YUZU FOU: Best Things in Beauty, The Alembicated Genie, The Black Narcissus

BOTTOM LINE:  Don’t get me wrong,  without the little bit of funk in Yuzu Fou, this would be a tad bit boring.   But that extra something different makes this interesting, while not detracting from its wearability.  Don’t worry though, others won’t notice it as I believe the funkiness probably doesn’t project all that much.  I like that it will just be our little secret!

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Aromatic Green
  • Noses:   Marc-Antoine Corticchiato
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $75 for 50ml EdP


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Musc Tonkin by Parfum d’Empire

MuscTonkin-ParfumdempireOK…I was sucked in.  The following factors make for a dangerous combination:

  1. Limited Edition
  2. Only 1000 bottles
  3. Parfum d’Empire / Marc Antoine Corticchiato

Since the perfumes of Parfum d’Empire are some of my favorites and since I have found that there really isn’t anything in the line that I don’t like, I thought that this would make for the perfect Christmas present for me.  As my better half is not a perfumista, I was going to put all the ordering information together for him so all he had to do is push a button.  A couple of Mondays ago I saw that Beautyhabit had Musc Tonkin on their website for sale; by Wednesday it was gone.  The same situation occurred at Lucky Scent…’SOLD OUT’.  I panicked and looked all over the web and the only place that I saw it for sale was on the Parfum d’Empire website.  I was not going to lose out, so I placed my order.

WHAT I SMELL:  In the bottle it smells very sweet and somewhat fruity.  When you first put it on the juice it’s thick, you can see the sheen on your skin.  It’s a bit camphoric and incredibly musky.  At first the musk is sweet…it’s strong but I rather like it.  In a bit, some tuberose or jasmine develops out of the musk. I have never been a fan of tuberose so I was a bit scared.  I can’t say that it’s earthy, but instead is more of a ripened floral.  I was expecting this to be warm, but while there is a bit of warmth, there is more a green note mixed with the musk.  It then turns more animalic and it feels a bit dirty and a bit sour.  As it develops it truly becomes stronger.  However, in the drydown, Musc Tonkin turns away from the beastly and instead becomes more of a beauty as it reveals itself as a floral scent.  In the very end (hours later), its a soft floral that has a bit of a metallic edge.

Since the notes were never published, the following is my guess (I can hear MAC laughing now):  tonka bean, jasmine, tuberose, musk, civet, bergamot, camphor or eucalyptus, vetiver, oak moss

I have heard some folks say there is a nice leather note in this.  Not to my nose.  I have also heard that this becomes powdery.  If there is any powder in there, it’s incredibly faint.

my-golden-grunge-flowerWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A grungey flower

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE MUSC TONKIN:   Miss Havisham-ish, pungent, different

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MUSC TONKIN:  Chemist in a Bottle, Perfume Posse

BOTTOM LINE:  What I find that I love about the Parfum d’Empire fragrances is that there is an undercurrent of oak moss which creates this lush and luxurious base.  I believe it’s here but its very muted.  As such it doesn’t create that wonderful base like with the others.  Surprisingly, this is a very nice white floral scent once you get past the opening which is an interesting ride.  In fact, my hubby likes it (the drydown) and he does not like heavy fragrances.  Does Musc Tonkin make me feel hot and bothered?  No.  Unlike Kurkdjian’s Absolue Pour le Soir which makes me want to take myself on a date, this is more removed.  It shouts a bit, but doesn’t beg you to come near.  I’m glad I bought a bottle, but I am going to have a hard time figuring out when and where I would wear this.  I do have sneaking feeling that this blind buy is going to grow on me more over time.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Musk
  • Nose: Marc Antoine Corticchiato
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: 120 Euros for 50ml Parfum Extrait


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Fougere Bengale by Parfum d’Empire

It had been a while since I purchased a full bottle of any perfume.  Fall is on it’s way (very evident today with highs in the 50s) and I felt the need for a new fragance, one that had a big personality that would put me in the mood.  It’s been a while since I had last sampled Fougere Bengale, but I knew that it was the perfect scent to put me in the spirit of the change of season.

WHAT I SMELL:  Strong lavender, mint and ginger which combined smells like curry (Immortelle?).  It’s very medicinal and masculine.  This is not an unassuming scent and a little goes a long way.  After this initial rush to the senses, Fougere Bengale becomes almost thick in its form. It gets heavier and turns to a slight syrup; it’s spicy, curried and green and ready to bite.  The drydown is the best part, like many of the Parfum d’Empire perfumes, the oakmoss leaves a light dustiness to the fragrance which is left without the sharp top notes, but still remains exotic and spicy but much calmer thanks to the vanilla and patchouli mixed with the tobacco.  Fougere Bengale is a truly unique fragrance.

Fougere Bengale notes:  lavender, tea, ginger, mint, hay, tobacco, pepper, oakmoss, patchouli, vanilla and tonka bean

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  To me this is not heavy and hot India sweltering in the sun, but instead India after a cool spell where the rain and a good breeze has tamed the land.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE FOUGERE BENGALE:  spicy, exotic, forceful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT FOUGERE BENGALE:  Memory of Scent, The Non-Blonde, Ars Aromatica

BOTTOM LINE:  This is an either you love it or hate it perfume.  I can’t get enough of it, my better half HATES this and doesn’t like for me to be around him when I’m wearing it.  Also, a little goes a long way and I have to be very cognizant of how I apply it.  Parfum d’Empire once again makes it very easy for me to love them with this creation!

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Aromatic Fougere
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Nose:  Marc-Antoine Corticchiato
  • Expense: $75 for 50ml EdP