The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Musc Tonkin by Parfum d’Empire

MuscTonkin-ParfumdempireOK…I was sucked in.  The following factors make for a dangerous combination:

  1. Limited Edition
  2. Only 1000 bottles
  3. Parfum d’Empire / Marc Antoine Corticchiato

Since the perfumes of Parfum d’Empire are some of my favorites and since I have found that there really isn’t anything in the line that I don’t like, I thought that this would make for the perfect Christmas present for me.  As my better half is not a perfumista, I was going to put all the ordering information together for him so all he had to do is push a button.  A couple of Mondays ago I saw that Beautyhabit had Musc Tonkin on their website for sale; by Wednesday it was gone.  The same situation occurred at Lucky Scent…’SOLD OUT’.  I panicked and looked all over the web and the only place that I saw it for sale was on the Parfum d’Empire website.  I was not going to lose out, so I placed my order.

WHAT I SMELL:  In the bottle it smells very sweet and somewhat fruity.  When you first put it on the juice it’s thick, you can see the sheen on your skin.  It’s a bit camphoric and incredibly musky.  At first the musk is sweet…it’s strong but I rather like it.  In a bit, some tuberose or jasmine develops out of the musk. I have never been a fan of tuberose so I was a bit scared.  I can’t say that it’s earthy, but instead is more of a ripened floral.  I was expecting this to be warm, but while there is a bit of warmth, there is more a green note mixed with the musk.  It then turns more animalic and it feels a bit dirty and a bit sour.  As it develops it truly becomes stronger.  However, in the drydown, Musc Tonkin turns away from the beastly and instead becomes more of a beauty as it reveals itself as a floral scent.  In the very end (hours later), its a soft floral that has a bit of a metallic edge.

Since the notes were never published, the following is my guess (I can hear MAC laughing now):  tonka bean, jasmine, tuberose, musk, civet, bergamot, camphor or eucalyptus, vetiver, oak moss

I have heard some folks say there is a nice leather note in this.  Not to my nose.  I have also heard that this becomes powdery.  If there is any powder in there, it’s incredibly faint.

my-golden-grunge-flowerWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A grungey flower

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE MUSC TONKIN:   Miss Havisham-ish, pungent, different

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MUSC TONKIN:  Chemist in a Bottle, Perfume Posse

BOTTOM LINE:  What I find that I love about the Parfum d’Empire fragrances is that there is an undercurrent of oak moss which creates this lush and luxurious base.  I believe it’s here but its very muted.  As such it doesn’t create that wonderful base like with the others.  Surprisingly, this is a very nice white floral scent once you get past the opening which is an interesting ride.  In fact, my hubby likes it (the drydown) and he does not like heavy fragrances.  Does Musc Tonkin make me feel hot and bothered?  No.  Unlike Kurkdjian’s Absolue Pour le Soir which makes me want to take myself on a date, this is more removed.  It shouts a bit, but doesn’t beg you to come near.  I’m glad I bought a bottle, but I am going to have a hard time figuring out when and where I would wear this.  I do have sneaking feeling that this blind buy is going to grow on me more over time.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Musk
  • Nose: Marc Antoine Corticchiato
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: 120 Euros for 50ml Parfum Extrait