The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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New Release: Zoologist Chameleon

WHAT I SMELL:  Chameleon unfolds on first spritz all soft and warm with delicious, bergamot, edible fruits and ylang ylang.  Surprisingly it’s not too juicy or really sweet…instead it’s just so very inviting.  In fact, it feels as if you’re walking down the street and you catch a whiff of a fragrant tree whose rapturous scent grabs your attention with its intoxicating spell.  After a short while, the perfume delivers a creamy accord of frangipani that really begins to radiate off the skin.  Underneath it floats a layer of sandalwood in the same vein of Guerlain’s Samsara (and that’s a good thing).  After some more time, a light chalkiness enters which soon begins to powder slightly after which the creaminess returns which a small dose of sweet.  The perfume then quiets to the perfect stage of just the right amount of creamy, sweet and floral.  Chameleon is everything tropical, but instead of overpowering the wearer with heavy handed florals, instead you seem to float in sun drenched flowers dancing in a sun-kissed breeze.

From the Zoologist Perfumes website:

Madagascar, home to half of the world’s species of chameleons, holds the key to Zoologist Chameleon. Like the kaleidoscope of hues that swirl within the flesh of these exotic creatures, ylang dances with delicate frangipani upon your skin in a melody of creamy florals, while aphrodisiac vanilla blends with salty, silky musks to envelop you in the fruity, exotic atmosphere of the island. Whether you desire to shroud yourself in an air of mystery, or blatantly flaunt your true colours, Chameleon becomes you.

Top Notes:  Bergamot, Lemon, Madagascar Ylang Ylang, Mango, Pink Pepper, Star Fruit, Violet Leaves
Heart Notes:  Cashmeran, Clove, Coconut, Frangipani, Jasmine, Saffron, Salty Skin Accord, Sea Breeze
Base Notes:  Amber, Woods, Musks, Opoponax, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   Vintage tropical florals.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHAMELEON:  colorful, calming, sunny

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHAMELEON:  Ventvenir, Colognoisseur, Nose Dives

BOTTOM LINE:  This is my kind of tropical perfume.  It all about being “not too.”  That means it’s balanced perfectly and it’s perfectly modern with a vintage bend.  Chameleon is summer fun….but of course, “not too” much fun!

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Nose:  Daniel Pescio
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $145 for 60 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.

 


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New Release: Civet by Zoologist Perfumes

zoologistcivetWHAT I SMELL:  Civet opens with a warmed spiced orange and bergamot which reminds me of clove filled orange pomanders that you see during the winter holidays.  The warmth begins to lighten quickly as the perfume beams soft and pretty with a lovely and light tuberose coming to the center.  But very quickly, the perfume becomes highly radiant and makes its presence known.  After a bit, a soured citrus comes forward which then melds into a light civet.  The perfume moves from a pretty floral luminosity to a slightly rebellious feel.  Still pretty, there’s a light bite that gives the perfume a more interesting presence and depth. As it continuous to develop, a hay like flatness keeps the perfume grounded.  At the same time, the projected radiance dissipates and the perfume dances around the floral heart, along with a musky and slightly urinous interplay with hints of coffee and leather.  Civet is wonderfully complex, yet so smooth and easy to wear.

From the Zoologist Perfumes website:

Zoologist Civet pays homage to the age-old ingredient, civet, as well as chypre perfumes of bygone days – perfumes that refused to be intimidated by raw, alluring, animalistic musks. Civet is a moody and complex brew entwined in mystery. It opens with a spicy floral accord, threaded through with dark coffee tones. Slowly it prowls forward, unraveling base notes of leather, moss and vanilla that combines with distinctive civet musk to create a bewildering, sophisticated scent with the promise of a sultry nighttime rendezvous.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Black Pepper, Lemon, Orange, Spices, Tarragon
Heart Notes: Carnation, Frangipani, Heliotrope, Hyacinth, Linden-blossom, Tuberose, Ylang
Base Notes: Balsams, Civet, Coffee, Incense, Labdanum, Musks, Oakmoss, Resins, Russian Leather, Vanilla, Vetiver, Woods 

nancy-spungen-profile

Nancy Spungen

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Nancy Spungen of Sid and Nancy fame…a little pretty, a little dirty, a little punk.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CIVET:  careworn, enigmatic, nuanced

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CIVET:  AustralianPerfumeJunkies, Cafleurebon

BOTTOM LINE:  Perfumer Shelley Waddington has created a complex beauty that blends seamlessly to reveal many nuances throughout the wear.  With the name Civet, I was worried that this would be a perfume would be rather funky.  Instead, she added just the right amount of civet to enhance the subdued florals.  Civet is a really lovely perfume.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Aromatic
  • Nose: Shelley Waddington
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $125 for 60 ml eau de parfum