The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


7 Comments

Crépuscule Des Âmes by Atelier Des Ors

WHAT I SMELL:  Crépuscule Des Âmes greets the skin with a warm and sparkling opening which quickly moves to the more herbal.  The perfume is lightly spiced and incredibly inviting.  As the perfume develops, it starts to take on a urinous note which turns the perfume from comforting to intriguing and lightly naughty.  Underneath the naughtiness is just a shimmer of sweet that keeps the perfume in the perfect place.  Eventually a light incense weaves its way in to add another dimension of mystery.  After some more time, a wonderful patchouli helps to once again draw out the lightly sweet.  Here the perfume perfectly resides…comfortable enough to wear on many occasions, but interesting enough to make it just that more exciting to wear.  Crépuscule Des Âmes is not a powerhouse, but it’s not shy either.  Instead, it’s a perfume that is distinct enough to draw others in wondering where the exotic elixir is coming from.

Crépuscule Des Âmes Notes:  Mandarin, cardamom, clary sage, hysope, incense, pimento berries, hyraceum, patchouli

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A 1950’s mink stole.  Lightly warmed…perfect for the cool of the evening.*

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CRÉPUSCALE DES ÂMES:  naughty, intriguing, retro-modern

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CRÉPUSCALE DES ÂMES:  Colognoisseur, The Plum Girl, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:   There is something very chic about Crépuscule Des Âmes.  It’s a modern twist on a classic base.  Very wearable, the perfume is lovely with just the right amount of naughtiness.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Aromatic
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $225 for 100ml eau de parfum

* The Scented Hound does not endorse the use of fur for fashion.


5 Comments

Cartier – XII L’Heure Mysterieuse

WHAT I SMELL:  L’Heure Mysterieuse has a strange opening that’s full of smoke and tar as well as a heavy patchouli that is thick, chewy and rather like paste.  The smoke rises off of the skin like some kind of industrial component.  This is a very bizarre as I can’t see how the opening brings promise of anything beautiful or gentile….or something that represents “Cartier.”  Thankfully, after a short time, the tar and heavy smoke begin to lift.  A dried flatness of incense appears instead and the perfume starts to belie a more gentle persona.  But don’t get me wrong, there’s a strength to the perfume in that it has a fighting energy buried beneath the smoky subdued radiance.  After quite some time a light floral appears, once again softening the former intensity.  To me, L’Heure Mysterieuse is a hard perfume to describe, but I can tell you that it has a classic old world heart that reminds me of fragrances from the 1970s.

From the Cartier website:

Silence was on the prowl. You could hear it breathing, lurking like desire. The calmness felt only temporary. Drowsiness gained life, slowly jasmine and heavily PATCHOULI. This was the time for listening to your own pulse at the edge of abandon, like a reverse countdown, a voyage into the intimate where everything both takes shape and disintegrates. Withdraw into yourself, escape and focus your mind on your inner self, reaching that point where self-awareness resides. Was it elemi gum, CORIANDER day? Was it incense, FRANKINCENSE night? Soon you must leave the juniper darkness… but not quite yet. First, savor L’HEURE MYSTÉRIEUSE for just one hour – no longer, that’s a promise – extracted from deep within, and rediscover your own personal roots.

La Liberté guidant le peuple. Eugène Delacroix. 1830

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  La Liberté.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE L’HEURE MYSTERIEUSE:  smoky, intense, retro

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’HEURE MYSTERIEUSE:  AustralianPerfumeJunkies, Bois de Jasmin, Katie Puckrick Smells

BOTTOM LINE:  L’Heure Mysterieuse Is a like and not a love for me.  The opening is weirdly interesting, but the drydown redeems the perfume as it turns into a retro classical scent.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Spicy
  • Nose:  Mathilde Laurent
  • Classification: Unisex (but to me it leans masculine)
  • Expense: $285 for 75 ml eau de parfum


2 Comments

Eight & Bob – Egypt

WHAT I SMELL:  Rather than a dry heat rising from the Sahara, Egypt opens with warm nutty lavender that quickly begins to fizz with a mellow lemon citrus coating.  It’s warm, but at the same time rather crisp and slightly formal, while projecting a casual vibe.  The lemon and nutmeg make for a light gourmand presence…slightly sugared, but never sweet.   The patchouli enters rather quickly, but instead of taking over, it glides underneath the nuttiness.  Here the perfume really begins to project and it’s warm and inviting and rather sexy as its self-assured.  As the perfume continues to develop the patchouli comes front and center with a sandalwood that tries to keep the scent from becoming to sweet.  But unfortunately on my skin, Egypt turns into a patchouli bomb…that’s not bad, but I would have liked to experience some more of the leather, which only appears after an hour or so and with barely a whisper.

Notes from the Eight & Bob website:

Top Notes: Lavender, Lemon, Moss

Heart Notes:  Cardamom, Nutmeg

Base Notes:  Leather, Patchouli, Sandalwood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Early 20th Century Egypt…a blending of old with the new.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE EGYPT:  Semi-sweet, semi-formal, semi-modern

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT EGYPT:  CaFleureBon, Perfume Posse

BOTTOM LINE:  I want to like this perfume, but the patchouli is just a bit too radiant for my taste.  Too bad because otherwise it’s a lovely fragrance.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $183 for 100 ml eau de parfum