citrus aromatic | The Scented Hound

June 2, 2016
by The Scented Hound 17 Comments

Jermyn Street by Floris

WHAT I SMELL: Jermyn Street opens with a sparking bergamot and a lightly sugared mandarin. The opening is warm, incredibly refreshing, bright and rather formal. Soon, the vibrant opening moves more towards a woody flatness that’s slightly herbal. The perfume is really hard to describe at this point, but what comes to mind is a bit of chalkiness, just like the smell when you wipe down and clean a chalkboard with water. But that evolution doesn’t last all that long as well, and instead a light sweetness moves back in. The perfume is full of small nuances and is very restrained and proper and clean and neat. As it continues to develop, the juniper berry gives the perfume a gin martini vibe, but one with just a dash of cream and a splash of soap. At this point, the perfume becomes warm and comforting as the amber wraps itself around the musky woody notes. At the same time, projection increases, but not enough to shout, but just enough to make you noticeable.

From the Floris website:

Inspired by what has been the backbone of the family business for nearly 300 years in the unique area of London that is St James’s and our home at 89 Jermyn Street, this fragrance, like its inspiration has the feel of refined elegance, understated class and style. Drawing on notes of gin with a splash of lemon, an initial burst of citrus and green notes have been blended with the theme of vetiver. The vetiver runs through the fragrance from its introduction to the base and is supported in the heart, accompanied by juniper with a contemporary twist of coriander, a subtle complement in gin creation. The fragrance also draws inspiration from the London plane trees which proudly still stand in front of the shop today, and the fresh scent of fine crisp cotton found within the renowned shirtmakers residing in the iconic location named after Henry Jermyn in 1664.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Green Vetiver, Violet
Heart Notes: Coriander, Vetiver, Armoise, Juniper Berry
Base Notes: Amber, Cedarwood, Musk, Vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The perfect perfume for the best dressed hipster. Classic with just enough modern to make it all the perfect for an old school vibe.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE JERMYN STREET: proper, effortless, bonny

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT JERMYN STREET: Candid Magazine

BOTTOM LINE: Jermyn Street is a proper, yet effortless perfume for the modern and classic man. Clean and sophisticated without being stuffy, it’s an easy fit for anyone. I love perfumes like this…even though I may not be dressed to the nines, when you spritz this on you feel like you are.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Citrus Aromatic
Nose: Edward Bodenham
Classification: Leans masculine
Expense: $192 for 50 ml eau de parfum

July 27, 2015
by The Scented Hound 10 Comments

Summer by Dasein

What’s more perfect for the beginning of the dog days of summer, than to review a perfume named Summer??!

WHAT I SMELL: Summer opens with a dash of fresh cilantro which is soon met with a muted grapefruit. The perfume feels like it’s comprised of the perfect ingredients for creating a wonderful citrus based salsa. But there is also an undertone of the perfume which reminds me so much of playing along the white sheets hanging on the line as a child (much to the chagrin of my mother!) As the perfume progresses, the cilantro recedes and the mixture of light citrus feels weighted under a layer of fresh rain water. It’s sunny, without being bright, but instead a clean musk and the most subtle of grass note which helps to generate a freshness. After around 10 minutes, the projection begins to grow, but the scent doesn’t transform or change that much except for the orange blossom which begins to take over as the prominent note over the grapefruit which adds just a hint of sour to this fresh-faced composition.

From the Dasein website:

SUMMER unisex fragrance features notes of cilantro, grapefruit, jasmine, orange blossom and grass. Each small batch is hand blended in the hills of Glassell Park, Los Angeles.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The wonderful smell of sun-kissed fresh laundered sheets on a clothesline.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE SUMMER: sunny, clean, fresh

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SUMMER: CaFleureBon, Colognoisseur, Fashion Lifestyle

BOTTOM LINE: Summer delivers on its name. The perfume projects big, but it refrains from feeling large. Summer maybe be the perfect perfume all year long…just right for the hot summer days, but also in the middle of winter when you just want to retreat to your own personal summer day.

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Citrus Aromatic
Nose: Sam Radar
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $95 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary

November 20, 2014
by The Scented Hound 5 Comments

Eau de Patou by Jean Patou

WHAT I SMELL: Eau de Patou opens with this airy, fizzy, bubbling citrus, it’s so sparkling that its like dancing bubbles when you put your nose up to a glass of champagne. The bergamot and citrus combination is very much alive and joyous and full of bright energy which can’t help but make you smile. After a bit, the lively opening levels off and the citrus mellows as a floral melody highlighted by lavender brings the fragrance to more of a hazy hued of radiance. As, it dries down, a peppered and powdered finish adds just the right amount of mystery to make this perfume something very much out of the ordinary. For a fragrance without a huge amount of progression there is something incredibly rapturous about Eau de Patou, so much so, that I find it extremely sensual and sexy.

From the Jean Patou website:

EAU DE PATOU – A crisp and vibrant scent that epitomizes carefree days and relaxation, EAU DE PATOU has a lightness of touch and a subtle freshness unparalleled in the JEAN PATOU archive. Created originally in 1976 as a unisex fragrance EAU DE PATOU is a genuine expression of freedom and style that lasts throughout the day. A light tonic with fruity notes that sparkle with accords of bergamot, Sicilian Citrus, Guinea Orange and Sweet Lime mixed with Pepper Lavender and Orange Flower. This Eau de Toilette is light and fresh yet it is undeniably sophisticated and unmistakably JEAN PATOU.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A young Robert Redford; clean-cut, handsome and incredibly sexy.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE EAU DE PATOU: classic, sophisticated, unassuming sexiness

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT EAU DE PATOU: Bois de Jasmin

BOTTOM LINE: Eau de Patou was my one purchase at Sniffapalooza this past Fall. It was immediate love and all the other perfumes were tossed aside once I smelled this. I don’t believe that Eau de Patou is groundbreaking, nor revolutionary. Instead, it’s classical with a peppered twist that speaks directly to my inner self. Who doesn’t love a perfume that makes them feel sexy?

Jean Patou is re-releasing some of their classic fragrances from the past in their Collection Heritage. Eau de Patou (originally released in 1976), along with Patou Pour Homme (1980) and Chaldee (1927) were the first three to be released and others will be forthcoming. I love this concept as a vintage perfume lover and I can’t wait to be introduced to the others in the line! You can find more about their Collection Heritage on the Jean Patou website.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Citrus Aromatic
Nose: Thomas Fontaine
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $245 for 100ml Eau de Toilette