The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Byredo Pulp

WHAT I SMELL:   Pulp’s opening is a pleasant one with a sparkling fresh bergamot.  That fresh sparkle is quickly met with a warmed blackcurrent which is ripe and juicy and pretty and lush without being overly aggressive.  Soon, the other fruits begin to come in to meet the blackcurrent with the fig and red apple seemingly taking turns at coming to the forefront.  Eventually, they blend together to make a stronger alliance as the perfume begins to expand and project.  In short time, the tiare and peach flower begin to take over and the perfume increases in volume.  There’s an artificiality about the perfume that begins to mimic the characteristics of the notes.   Eventually, the perfume settles in as a fruity floral with nondescript wood sitting underneath.  Pulp is big, but not too big; fresh, but not too fresh; fruity without being too fruity….you get my drift.

From the Byredo website:

In Pulp, a compilation of exotic and Swedish influences create an international fruit basket.  A dramatic composition focused on the idea of ripe, sweet, shapeless mass of fruit, an unruly and intense savor.

Notes:  

Top – bergamot, blackcurrent, cardamom

Heart – fig, red apple, tiare

Base – cedarwood, peach flower, praline

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Pulp isn’t soapy, but it does remind me of those tenacious shampoos from the 1970s where 8 hours after you washed your hair it still smelled as if it was just washed.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PULP: abundant, artificially fresh, vibrant

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PULP:  Musings of a Muse, Colognoisseur, AustralianPerfumeJunkies

BOTTOM LINE:   Pulp is pleasant enough in a very non-offensive way.  Its artificial freshness makes for a pretty easy wear, but to me, it does grow rather tiresome as it eventually (after a couple of hours) turns to a cottony musk.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Fruity
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  Approx $110 for 50 ml eau de parfum

Footnote:  After completing my writing of this post in its entirety, I read what I wrote and I found that the review seemed to have been “phoned in”.  So what does that mean?  Well, the post doesn’t flow all to well and it seems to be lacking any real effort or oomph.  I thought about cleaning the post up and doing some edits, but then decided…no.  Pulp, although being nice enough of a perfume, it too feels “phoned in”…so there you go.


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New Release: Jardin Nocturne by Shalini

WHAT I SMELL:  Jardin Nocturne opens with a soft warm enveloping jasmine with a mildly spicy and intoxicating saffron.  The perfume moves deep into your lungs with a spellbinding sensuality.  A quiet oud meditates in the background as if it’s a secret veil moving oh so gently under a moonlit sky; and combined with the saffron it creates an effect of the lightest of leather.  A facet that I love in this perfume is that the oud is used in such a perfect and elegant manner, never coming to the forefront to overcome the perfume.  Instead, front and center is the night-blooming jasmine which radiates like the beaming moonlight.  As Jardin Nocturne develops, it weaves itself slowly down a garden path.  Each step along the way the perfume continues to unfold its mysterious secrets.  Its lightly wafting tendrils rise and tease the wearer and those she seduces as the warmth vibrates of the skin as if it has a pulse, enveloping the wearer with a carnal aura.  Jardin Nocturne is a magical perfume.

“Le Tourbillions” Lalique flacon

From Shalini:

Moonlight reflecting upon the water.  A night garden filled with night-blooming flowers, ponds, waterfalls, fountains, winding paths, discreet garden benches where lovers meet under the stars.

The peace, beauty and the light of the night in full bloom…

The soft sounds of the night, the fireflies lighting up the atmosphere…

Jardin Nocturne reflects the nuance and poetry of such a garden…

Jardin Nocture is inspired by the night air.

Notes: Night Blooming Jasmine absolute from India, Assam Oud, Saffron, Mysore Sandalwood, Musk

The Music of the Faun, Ferdinand Keller, 1910

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Ferdinand Keller’s – The Music of the Faun

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE JARDIN NOCTURNE:  seductive, serene, sublime

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT JARDIN NOCTURNE:  CaFleureBon, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  Good things come to those who wait.  Over 10 years after introducing her debut perfume Shalini, designer Shalini, once again in a collaboration with Maurice Roucel has created a perfume that lives up to her debut perfume.  I loved Shalini for the fact that is was supremely feminine it all its white floral quiet beauty.  With Jardin Nocturne, the perfume is unabashedly sensual.  It’s a fragrance that fills the room with seductive mystery that will beckon anyone towards its heavenly refrain.  Jardin Nocturne was definitely worth the long wait.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Nose: Maurice Roucel
  • Classification: Leans feminine, but easily unisex
  • Expense:  $500 for 50 ml parfum or $2,400 for the Lalique crystal flacon “Le Tourbillions.”  Available in November at Aedes de Venustas.


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New Release: Mona di Orio Dõjima

WHAT I SMELL:  Dõjima has a soft and subtle opening which quickly gives rise to a warm and milky rice and a nutty amber.  The perfume is quiet and contained and it seems to possess a zen like reverence.   While the miky rice note remains as it develops, the amber takes on more a floral hue.  And the florals seem to float above the milkiness as if they are dancing lightly atop a ripple on a quiet pond.  The remaining nutty amber seems to flicker in and out which makes the perfume lightly gourmand with hints of green tea.  Dõjima is slow to transform, but being true to the serenity of the fragrance, its gentle unfolding is like a quiet journey for the soul.

From the Mona di Orio website:

The name derives from the Dōjima Rice Exchange founded by Samurai in 1697 in Osaka, Japan. Let us travel back to this moment in time, have the beauty and serenity of a single rice grain work as your seductive armor.

Dõjima turns to powder as it combines with the warmth of the skin and a cloud of rice powder surrounded by jasmin and orris radiates through the day. The soft texture of rice is lifted by a warm powdered amber speckled with dry spices and woods on a creamy musk base.

Rice Accord, nutmeg absolue, ambrette, jasmin, orris, clary sage absolute, labdanum CO2, sandalwood and precious musks.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Lotus flowers scattered amongst the rice fields.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE DÕJIMA:  quiet, serene, balanced

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DÕJIMA:  CaFleureBon, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  I am a big fan of perfumer Fredrik Dalman, his Mona di Orio debut Bohea Boheme was one of my picks for new releases of last year.  Like Bohea Boheme, Dõjima quietly unfolds the mysteries of the east.  There is nothing brash, nor hard about this gem, but like a jewel, its beauty sparkles with a reverent dignity.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose: Fredrik Dalman
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $200 for 75 ml eau de parfum