The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Corpus Equus by Naomi Goodsir

WHAT I SMELL:  The opening of Corpus Equus is anything but quiet with its burst of birch, soured leather and hint of a soft floral that quickly moves completely to a urinous birch tar.  The composition is cool and rather damp and it smells as if a campfire has been doused by cold water and where the smoke from the fire has infused into your clothes.  Sometimes that can be a comforting smell.  Here, it just feels pungent, soured and rather jolting.  The leather does come out slowly and it does help to pull the perfume away from the fire and in doing so it helps tame it to a more wearable stage.  Corpus Equus continues to settle and with it comes a sharpened note which helps to continue to cut the birch tar.  Here, the perfume becomes more of a leathered radiant forcefield which is more earthy and grounded in its feel.  In the end, a smooth buttery layer begins to come forward along with a soft amber.  What started off as a raging stallion has turned into a rather tame pony.

From the Naomi Goodsir website:

DARK / ANIMALISTIC / WILD

A deep black animalistic composition, with assertive leather notes.

Inspiration – A tribute to a fiery & impetuous horse

Corpus Equus Notes:  black rose petal, horsehair, leather, cigarette ash, Tonkin musk, amber infusion

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A dude ranch.  For city folk, the ranch may initially be a shock to the senses, but soon enough the scents of the ranch are smoothed out for their suburban patrons.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CORPUS EQUUSjolting, contrary, smooth

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CORPUS EQUUS: CaFleureBon, The Sniff

BOTTOM LINE:  Corpus Equus is a perfume that starts off in the barn and ends up in a Ralph Lauren ad.  You wonder if you can get past the startling entrance where you are tempted to run.  But like a wild horse, it does get tamed in the end and it turns out to be rather lovely.  But Corpus Equus probably wouldn’t be best suited for wearing to the grocery store and it’s definitely not suited for the office.  Actually, I’m not sure where I would wear this.  It’s interesting, but..

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Leather
  • Noses:  Bertrand Douchaufour
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $187 for 50 ml eau de parfum


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Iris Cendré by Naomi Goodsir

NAOMI-GOODSIR--Iris-Cendre-50-mlWHAT I SMELL:  Iris Cendré opens up cool, yet warm with a suede-like bergamot that starts to sparkle quickly with a dash of tangerine.  The perfume is semi-light and airy and reminds me of feathers descending to the ground after a pillow fight.  Soon the incense comes rushing to the forefront, but in a powdered and light-handed matter.  At this stage of the perfume, it feels like a giant powder puff of feminine floral magic.  What I find interesting is that you can feel the complexity and quality in the perfume, yet it carries itself in the most simple and elegant manner.  So where’s the iris?  It’s been there all along, but it’s soft, delicate and basking in warmth behind the other notes.  It doesn’t want to be the center of attention and instead choosing to be cool and aloof like iris can sometimes be.  As the perfume dries down, it becomes stripped of most of its moisture and ends it’s journey in a haze of incense which finally gives way to a light floral musk.  Iris Cendré has me mystified.

From the Naomi Goodsir website:

A fresh floral tone, led by bergamot, tangerine & spices. A rich & powdery heart of incense & purple iris. Sensuality is enhanced by cistus, tobacco & amber.

BlackSwanFeathersWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Black swan feathers.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE IRIS CENDRÉ:  elegant, elusive, restrained

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT IRIS CENDRÉ:  Kafkaesque, Colognoisseur, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Iris Cendré is an incredibly beautiful and restrained iris beauty.  It’s elegant simplicity and cool demeanor conceals a complex heart.  My only regret with the perfume is that the opening doesn’t last as long as I would like.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Floral
  • Noses: Julien Rasquinet
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $187 for 50 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Lucky Scent.  


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Naomi Goodsir: Cuir Velours & Bois d’Ascese

cuir veloursCuir Velours

WHAT I SMELL:  The initial opening of Cuir Velours is cool and slightly astringent, but this lasts for a microsecond before it moves into a boozy rum and almost chocolately suede.  It’s ever so sweet and gourmand and to me it feels like a layer of brown sugar on top of a really fine layer of suede.  I love this phase, it’s completely yummy.   After a bit, a light incense comes forth which pares down the light sugar.  At this point Cuir Velours becomes ethereal and translucent like a light sheen of leather floating in the air.    In the final drydown, Cuirs Velours gets a bit sweeter in an almost fruited way, like sniffing a full-bodied fruity red wine.  Unfortunately, Cuir Velours disappears all too quickly on my skin and that’s a shame.

From the Naomi Goodsir website:

A deep & textured perfume, that evocatively encases the skin like soft velvet suede. A tobacco atmosphere supported by notes of rum, cistus labdanum, incense & fleur d’immortelle.

pretty ponyWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The prettiest pony.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CUIR VELOURS:  soft, sugared, comfy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CUIR VELOURS: Persolaise, Smellythoughts, Perfumeniche.com

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Leather
  • Nose:  Julian Rasquinet
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $150 for 50ml EdP

boisasceseBois d’Ascese

WHAT I SMELL:  Bois d’Ascese opens smelling like wet burnt campfire wood.  There is just a hint of cinnamon and whiskey to give it a bit more rounded sensation.  Bois d’Ascese doesn’t transform much. The smoky incense dominates and pushes everything else to the back.  To me, this needs a little more whiskey and cinnamon and less smoke.  Most surprising to me though, in the end I found this very much to be a comfort scent.

From the Naomi Goodsir website:

A captivating & reassuring smoke. Notes of tobacco & whisky, are supported by cinnamon, amber & cistus labdanum. Oakmoss, smoked cade wood, almost burnt, prolong the incense of Somalia with power & elegance

KOA CampsiteWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A KOA campground circa 1968.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE BOIS D’ASCESE:  smoky, linear, woodsy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BOIS D’ASCESE:  Now Smell This, Sorcery of Scent, The Scentualist

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Incense Woodsy
  • Nose:  Julian Rasquinet
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $150 for 50ml EdP

BOTTOM LINE:  I had not heard of Naomi Goodsir prior to Freddie from Smellythoughts providing me with these samples.  Both of these fragrances are very unique in their own way and their quality in composition makes me curious about the 3rd offering this house is launching, Nuit de Bakelite, which the Naomi Goodsir website says is coming soon.  BTW, the website and the packaging are par excellence.