WHAT I SMELL: Iris Cendré opens up cool, yet warm with a suede-like bergamot that starts to sparkle quickly with a dash of tangerine. The perfume is semi-light and airy and reminds me of feathers descending to the ground after a pillow fight. Soon the incense comes rushing to the forefront, but in a powdered and light-handed matter. At this stage of the perfume, it feels like a giant powder puff of feminine floral magic. What I find interesting is that you can feel the complexity and quality in the perfume, yet it carries itself in the most simple and elegant manner. So where’s the iris? It’s been there all along, but it’s soft, delicate and basking in warmth behind the other notes. It doesn’t want to be the center of attention and instead choosing to be cool and aloof like iris can sometimes be. As the perfume dries down, it becomes stripped of most of its moisture and ends it’s journey in a haze of incense which finally gives way to a light floral musk. Iris Cendré has me mystified.
From the Naomi Goodsir website:
A fresh floral tone, led by bergamot, tangerine & spices. A rich & powdery heart of incense & purple iris. Sensuality is enhanced by cistus, tobacco & amber.
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Black swan feathers.
THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE IRIS CENDRÉ: elegant, elusive, restrained
WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT IRIS CENDRÉ: Kafkaesque, Colognoisseur, CaFleureBon
BOTTOM LINE: Iris Cendré is an incredibly beautiful and restrained iris beauty. It’s elegant simplicity and cool demeanor conceals a complex heart. My only regret with the perfume is that the opening doesn’t last as long as I would like.
- Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
- Scent: Oriental Floral
- Noses: Julien Rasquinet
- Classification: Unisex
- Expense: $187 for 50 ml eau de parfum
Sample courtesy of Lucky Scent.
January 18, 2016 at 8:43 am
Good morning! As an iris lover, I will definitely try this one. Did you detect any ashy, embery burning notes? I really do not like burning embers, campfire notes in perfume. I hope the answer will be no, but again if it has burning embers I just saved a bunch of $ . If it’s really good I will have to have this :-))
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January 18, 2016 at 3:10 pm
Ricky…the incense is front and center, but there’s not burning embers or scorched paper, etc. Just a light, but noticeable incense on me, but maybe on other that light incense may get heavy? I guess one doesn’t know until it’s tried themselves. Let me know your thoughts when you do. 🙂
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January 18, 2016 at 10:06 am
Lovely review, S. As a not so Iris fan I really liked this. Love That it reminds you of black swan feathers, why black and not white?
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January 18, 2016 at 3:08 pm
E – I’m not a huge fan of iris as well. It’s usually a bit too cool for me. I thought of black swan feathers because of the incense that layers the perfume. It takes the beautiful whiteness of the perfume and casts a wonderful shadow over it.
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January 18, 2016 at 3:57 pm
Just tried it, S and know exactly what you mean. Is it FBW for you?
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January 18, 2016 at 11:50 am
Most people around seem to love it and they are raving about it. Except of me. I tried it several times but it doesn’t speak to me.
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January 18, 2016 at 3:07 pm
Lucas – I’ve heard nothing but raves about this as well. Of all people, since you’re such an iris lover, I thought this would hit your sweet spot. What is it about the perfume that doesn’t speak to you?
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January 18, 2016 at 3:12 pm
Honestly it ust smells like an ashtray to me. With a rotting carrot vibe to it
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January 18, 2016 at 3:23 pm
LOL..I love your honesty!
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January 18, 2016 at 3:26 pm
😀 you asked for it :-p
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January 18, 2016 at 4:55 pm
I’m an iris fan, but Iris Cendre is mostly cendre on me. Like Lucas, I get an ashtray note. Sour, bitter, acrid. Maybe urban swan feathers covered in soot? Of course now, perversely, I need to test it again. I may find a glimmer of what you’re getting, or perhaps the rotting carrot vibe will make its presence known. 😉
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January 18, 2016 at 4:58 pm
Wow, I wore this several times and never go the ashtray…which if I had I certainly would have noticed!
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February 4, 2016 at 1:57 am
I haven’t tried it yet but look forward to.
I got a little confused though by your review: it sounds positive but you gave it just 3.5 bones – and I have a feeling that you rarely (I’m not saying never) rate anything lower than 3.5. Did you like it? (other than the fact that you wished for longer lasting top notes)
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February 4, 2016 at 7:24 pm
My dear U…your keen sense of observation is spot on. I LOVED the opening and ride for the first 1/2 hour, but after that, I thought the perfume got just a little too flat for my tastes. Thus, the review is a bit schizophrenic.
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