The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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New Release: Maison Francis Kurkdjian – 724

WHAT I SMELL:  724 opens with a clean, fresh, floral infused bergamot tinged with sunny aldehydes.  It’s soft, slightly fuzzy and very airy.   It’s been quite some time where I have smelled a perfume that feels like it wasn’t introduced to the skin, but instead seems to float two to three inches off of the skin in a luminescent manner.    As the perfume develops the bergamot begins to fade and the florals seem to dance lightly in a ballet of tender and quiet beauty.  Even though 724 has a quiet demeanor, it does have a great deal of light and energy.  After some additional time, a metallic note comes forward and creates a base for the light and sunny florals.  And after some more time, the perfume begins to grow as the jasmine takes it’s place at the center of the perfume along with what smells to me like lily of the valley although I don’t see it mentioned as a note.    It’s here that the perfume turns more to the humidity of the bath and with the addition of a sandalwood the whole creation begins to warm.  In the end, 724 lies lightly sweetened on the skin with beautiful countenance.

From the Maison Francis Kurkdjian website:

In the light of a pure sky rising over the city ascends the elegant silhouette of 724. Urban landscapes and their surrounding architecture overtly influenced the graphic aesthetic of this musky floral eau de parfum. Luminous, vibrant and comfortably addictive, 724 invites you to feel the city rhythm. In the top notes, a fresh, urban accord is perceived. It is the sensation of clean, energizing freshness, formed of bergamot from Italy and the verticality of aldehydes with sophisticated, slightly metallic, effervescent facets. At the heart of this fragrance lies an airy aura conveyed by a bouquet of flowers structured by jasmine absolute from Egypt, sweet pea and mock orange. In the base notes, this universe of whiteness surrenders to an enveloping, comforting sensation thanks to a sandalwood and white musk accord.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  I realize the inspiration for this perfume is the city, but to me, with it’s light and and happy aura, it’s pure “dancing fairies.”

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE 724:  airy, uncomplicated, delightful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT 724:  Grazia

BOTTOM LINE:  724 is pure delight with its fresh and light florals that are just so easy to love.  I could see this being a love for both men and women for an all-occasion easy to wear perfume.

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.


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Vintage Y by Yves Saint Laurent

A couple of weeks ago I was going through my perfumes and I found a vintage gem that for some reason had been hidden within a box; a small 15 ml bottle of Y parfum extrait which I believe is from the late 60s or early 70s.  Funny thing is that the same day that I found this little prize, Portia dropped a post on Undina’s Looking Glass about the same perfume.  Obviously the perfumed gods were trying to tell me to do a review of this vintage chypre.

WHAT I SMELL:  Y opens with a warmed honeyed galbanum layered with a dried woody vetiver and a hint of peach.  The perfume goes on strong, but then settles into a much quieter mix of slightly soured florals that are rich, deep and wonderfully intoxicating.  Y means business, serious business as there’s nothing soft or demure about the perfume.  Instead, it wears like a tweed jacket..as if it’s been tinged with just a bit of dew bringing out the smell of the wool.  As it continues to develop the oakmoss comes forth front and center surrounded by an ambered hue.  In the end, the perfume settles into a lovely amber surrounded by soft florals.  Y is perfect for cool fall nights when you want to leave a trail of deliciousness behind you as you get swept up in the cool air.  Y doesn’t develop as much as it stakes its claim in being solidly beautiful.

Y Notes from Fragrantica:

  • Top: Aldehydes, Green Notes, Galbanum, Honeysuckle, Gardenia, Peach, Mirabelle Plum
  • Heart: Hyacinth, Orris Root, Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine, Tuberose, Bulgarian Rose
  • Base: Oakmoss, Civet, Vetiver, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Benzoin, Styrax

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Tweed via the 1970s.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE Y:  secure, no-nonsense, solitary

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT Y:  Undina’s Looking Glass, Bois de Jasmin

BOTTOM LINE:  Y is a beautiful perfume, but not one that reaches out to me for a regular wear.  Albeit being warm and posh, to me it feels a bit aloof and removed.  I find that with most vintage perfumes I prefer them to be comfort scents and Y just doesn’t quite fit that bill.  Of course, summer is wrapping up, and I might find that it’s just the right fit come October!

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Chypre
  • Nose:  Michael Hy
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  Varies on eBay, review based on parfum extrait


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Chanel PARIS-RIVIERA

WHAT I SMELL:  PARIS-RIVIERA opens with a soft creamy petitgrain that is quickly met with a sweet, vibrant and juicy neroli.  It’s fresh, energetic and a bit bubble-gummish as it feels a bit chewy.  But overall it’s incredibly sunny.  A sandalwood makes it way in to reveal a bit of pencil shaving along with the lightest of jasmine, which helps it migrate away from the orange a bit.  After a short time, a gauze of musk layers over the composition and it feels as if the perfume is contained in a muslin wrap designed to keep the flies off of the fruit that sits within a basket.  As the perfume continues to develop, it begins to sweeten which is welcomed as it makes the perfume just that more joyous.  And in a bit, a warmed woody base adds just the perfect resting place for this floral dream.   PARIS-RIVIERA is a delightfully pretty perfume.

From the Chanel website:

1928. Gabrielle Chanel builds her villa, La Pausa, on the Côte d’Azur, a few years after opening a new boutique in Cannes. With breathtaking landscapes, the French Riviera becomes the hot spot for society. The sweetness and excitement of this life is captured by the floral and solar scent of PARIS-RIVIERA.

A burst of zesty Sicilian orange interlaced with petitgrain reveals soft, subtle notes of jasmine and neroli. Sandalwood and musk add a touch of warmth for a scent as radiant as the Mediterranean sun.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A summer picnic under the orange trees.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PARIS-RIVIERA:  fresh, dreamy, uncomplicated

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PARIS-RIVIERA:  My Woman Stuff, Fragroom.com

BOTTOM LINE:  Chanel does fresh better than anyone else.  This perfume is no exception.  PARIS-RIVIERA is the perfect summer scent.  No, actually it’s the perfect scent to wear whenever you need a mood booster no matter the time of year and I love it!

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral Fruity
  • Nose:  Olivier Polge
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: Starting at $90 for 1.7 oz. eau de toilette